Guy Savoy A French Culinary Legend

 France is the birthplace of good food.It has given birth to some of the most legendary chefs in world history including Auguste Escoffier to now Guy Savoy. He recently became the first chef  to be welcomed into the esteemed and prestigious the Academie des Beaux Artes. He is sinly gone beyond being one of the finest cooks in modern Gallic history.He is a true artesan.

Former New York TImes Paris bureau chief and contributor Elaine Sciolino wrote about this remarkable man and his accomplishments in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday section.Chef Svoy's honor os the perfect sweet revenge because he had a Michelin star removedfrom his review in 2023. It  went from two to three.The Academie des Beaux Artes is one of the five academies led by the Royal Academie Francasrs first stated by  Louis XIV. At the Academie des Beaux Artes there are what's known as The "Immortals": painters, sculptors, architects, photographers ,choreographers, musicians and even film and  museum directors. Admitting a chef is a big deal, even in a country where gastronomy has ruled for centuries. He got on after just one round of voting despite that some members were not at all happy to admit him.Yet he even surpassed the great painter Eugene Delacroix and great composer Hector Berlioz. Both were rejected several times before gaining entry,

Chef Savoy is one of the last great chefs dedicated to the art and craft of turning foods into perfect object de desire. His, restaurant, located across from the Musee Louvre, has amazing food. He has created an egg and Caviar dish decorated with a savory sabayon which the staff makes sure dinners have extra of that. Dinners are given second helping of soups and main dishes like Bresse(chicken a breed known for it;s tender meat and juiciness)  .However the pandemic turned around the French palate  and made them crave fast foods like McDonald's .Fast food has soared throughout the country despite the country's plunging economy. Still Chef Savory persists, namely to his dedication to gastronomy. He also credits his mother,Leonie, a small bar and buvette - or informal eatery in their home in Bourgain-Jallu ,outside the French Culinary capital of Lyon.His Swiss born father Louis was the town gardener, supplying the restaurant with veggies and fruit, Fresh produce figures strongly in Chef Savoy's dishes.After the ceremony guests were able to taste thanks to him setting up outdoor tables and stations. His famed artichoke soup was a hit.

Chef Giy Savr will no doubt be rememebered for his amazing dishes.He is a true artists worthy of his membership in the Academie des Beaux Artes. He and his recipes were stand out not only in France but also the world

Global Easter

Easter is celebrated all over the world. While the holiday is relatively the same, the foods to enjoy are different. The main courses are varied as are the sides. The desserts , no matter where they originate are perfect for egg hunters bfg and small. What;s fun is planning your holiday table with this international buffet.

Ham us a big Easter main course.It['s was done because pigs were slaughtered in the fall and their hams were cured throughout the winter. Come Sprtng these were ready to be cooked. Germans and British families as well as Americans love a good ham for the holiday. However in Germany there is also rouladem, those delicious beef rolls stuffed with spinach. A lot of families also serve lamb along with spargill or white asparagus with Hollandaise sauce. Asparagus is in full season right now there and it;s figures heavily in German Spring dishes. The Italians have strong food traditions too.Thye too enjoy a good roasted lamb which symbolizes the Pascal one,Spring veggies like artichokes and peas figure heavily in their side dishes. The Italians, too, love asparagus but it;s shaved and served with shards of Pecorino cheese,The Spanish go the fish route ,celebrating with cod which is also a symbol of Easter. There are also many vegetarian dihes too.There so also a bean soup that starts off the meal.

Across the Pyrennes is France. They have always had a cool style with regards to holiday cooking. They celebrate with a Pare Berrichon. This is a mix of pork veal and whole hard boiled eggs wrapped in a puff pastry crust.It is a rich bite complete with the addition of Cognac shallots.,garlic and herbs.They eschew the ham and lamb of their neighbors and go for a poulet roti or roast chicken..It is covered with butter, from under the skin to being basted with a garlic butter to ensure a crispy skin. The French influence is seen all over the world, especially in the Caribbean island of Haiti. Their griot recipe is a platter of crispy, marinated pork It;s also served with pikliz a shredded carrot and cabbage slaw, along with fried plantains. There's also white rice and beans too to round out the meal. Another Caribean island that goes all out for the holiday is Jamaica.Jamaicans love making  Escovitch fish, which can either be red snapper, or parrot fish covered in a tangy red sauce made of pickled carrots, onions, peppers and Scotch Bonnet peppers. There is also fried fish and sides of rice and operas too.

ANy of these dishes would be perfect for the Easter table. They can be sophisticated or spicy. They celebrate joy with their mix of complex flavors.

Cooking Holidays

 Foodie sand gourmands have one thing on their mindc- creating the perfect dish. Even their vacations revolve around the perfect dish.Luckily there are vacations for those who love food > They 're everywhere from Tuscany to Cambodia.

How do you find  cooking holidays? The obvious answer is online. There are many to choose from so pick one that sings to you.The top countries foodies want to go to is France and Italy. THere are packages that feature four days in Normandy for $4000. This is i a crash course where you learn everything. from balancing to more elaborate cooking methods.All three meals are included as well.Some cooking schools are located in farmhouses so there students can pick their ingredients along with retrieving fresh eggs for dishes and desserts. There is also a Normandy pastry vacation where students can learn all the intricacies of French pastry making , form mille feulles to croissants.Of course Italy is another desired location  and there foodies and gourmands can be shown the intricacies of making a good homemade pasta along with the various sauces.Th Italian trip also features talking with local artesans , from wine makers to cheese makers and discerning how to buy the best.

More exotic locales can also be found too. Cambodia offered culinary trips. There foodies and home chefs learn about Khmer cuisine. These also include trips to local markets to become familiar with and shop for important ingredients. A Cambodian cooking vacation is actually cheaper than a European one. A few days is $2700 , as opposed to an Italian one of $5000. There is also a twelve day culinary tour of Vietnam which features seeing Hanoi with a well known food blogger and trying everything from pho to egg coffee.It['s mot just Southeast Asia that features culinary vacations. India offers a few interesting trips throughout the country. There is a three day culinary tour at Agra which also highlights a trip to the Taj Mahal. Four dishes will be featured along with breakfast, lunch and dinner included.Another Indian culinary trip features food walks in such famed cities as Dehli, Jaipur and Agra. A plus on this tour is an introduction to Indian spices which is important when the students return home and recreate the dishes.

A vacation is fun. A cooking vacation is just special. Think about taking one sometime this summer for a fun and tasty trip.

A Light Summer Dessert

 One of the yummiest and lightest desserts is chocolate mousse>it's like a puff of sweet air in the mouth>it's silky and airy, perfect for summer. its a great end to any summer meal.

Food writer and regular contributor Genevieve Ko wrote about this classically French dessert in Wednesday's New York Times Food section.Mousse is the perfect end to any hot weather meal.It's light , not dense like cakes and cupcakes, and doesn't heave an aftertaste like ice cream does. She looks to French home chefs for the recipe where it's treated the same way American home chefs treat their chocolate chip cookie recipe. The recipe followed is usually on the back of cheap candy bars.Every family has one. It's not the elegant dessert we have elevated it to. Order mousse in a restaurant and it comes in a martini glass, , topped with whipped cream, chocolate curls and a sprig of mint. In France it's served like any family dessert in a big bowl where people can scoop out as much as they like.It's also not perfect, The French sometimes leaves pockets of  unblended egg white that can be easily mixed in.

Ms. Ko received the recipe from her Gallic friend , Cecile. Hers has foamy egg yolks and extra airy egg whites. The eggs should be completely separated in two bowls so not to have yellows in the whites and vice versa.Mousses should have richness , some add butter but this will make the texture too dense. Ms. Ko advises stick with a heavy cream. Of course chocolate is a big ingredient. Use a dark chocolate meant for eating or confections and not baker's chocolate. The last has a higher proportion of cacao solids which will make for a dense and possibly gritty mousse. Use a bar with a seventy to seventy-four percentage cacao however you can use the one you love to eat. It'll make for a tastier flavor.Cook the chocolate and cream together and then add the egg yolks afterwards one yolk at a time. The whites should have been whipped in a standing mixer . Sugar is added to them to create a meringue. Fold the two mixtures together using smart gentle folding.Fold the whites over the chocolate and don;t over do it. It will give you a light texture. Run the bowl clockwise for even folding and mixing.

A good summer dessert should be airy and light like this mousse. Try it for a lovely , fluffy bite. It's the perfect end to any not weather meal.

The Selling Of The Dixie Lee

 Could it be true? One of New Jersey's most iconic bakeries Keansburg 's Dixie Lee Bskery is now owned by a famous chef?  What's going to happen to this mainstay of the Jersey shore?

It's been the steady buzz around this iconic business for the last few weeks. I've have always been a big fan of the place (as everyone knows.)It's worth the trip down to Keansburg , even in December for the Christmas platters of butter cookies.I love their variety of them, from the chocolate dipped to the butter leaves sandwich types. Their giant cookies covered in nothing but sprinkles or M&M's are the best and are like mini hubcaps in size. Everyone goes mad for their  chewy onion rye bread which is a delicate flavor blend of crispy blackened onions and rye dough.It's so good you can even eat it for breakfast (and I have , slathered with Melt) Over the years I've bought their seven layer cake for my Mom's graduation and crunchy flaky croissants that rival any New York City' patisseries, There are  cult like followings for the Dixie Lee's lemon meringue pie and their doughnuts, both jelly and traditional.

The bakery has a long history in the Keansburg area. It started eighty-five years ago when the town was basically a summer resort , dotted with tiny bungalows. For the past forty years Mark Onoluk and Allison Loori have owned it, maintaining the  original recipes that pleases generations for decades. However it was too much  for them although they will be staying on as managing partners. Enter famed chef and Hazlet native David Burke. Chef Burke is no stranger to baked goods. He studied at the prestigious Ecole LeNotre in Plaisirs,France a suburb of Paris. He has been on the Bravo network's popular Top Chef  for two season and owns a slew of clubby and trendy eateries throughout New Jersey. His latest is Goat in Union Beach, a town away from Keansburg. His plans for the Dixie Lee? He wants to keep the iconic menu.It's what four generations of his family enjoyed. His son's wedding cake even came from there. Yet will he sneak in meringues or brioches?  He plans on selling sandwiches, which could be wonderful. I wouldn't mind a ham and Gruyere stuffed sandwich. I do hope he keeps what has made the bakery great, cookies and breads that taste like homemade, cupcakes and cakes topped with fluffy buttercream.

David Burke has some pretty big baker's shoes to follow. Yes, he has created some of the states' best restaurant from Morristown to Fort Lee. Yet can he keep one of the Jersey shore's most loved bakeries humble with delicious treats? Let's hope so.

Mardi Gras Every Day

 Today is Mardi Gras ,a time of "Laissez le bonne temps roulez" in the city of Mardi Gras, New Orleans. There are also sorts of delicious savory and sweet dishes that are not only perfect for tonight's festivities but every day of the year. The good times and flavors can roll anytime you crave Creole or Cajun foods.

There are two key factors in New Orleans cooking. One is roux , a simple mix of butter and flour cooked over a low flame and whipped into a creamy sauce. It reflects Louisiana's deep French roots (if you're into French cooking you'll know that roux is used constantly to thicken sauces such as bechamel) and comes three ways, white, blonde and brown. White is the least cooked, while blonde takes a minute or two longer until it's a light golden color. The flavor is slightly nutty. There is the brown which is cooked anywhere from ten to thirty minutes. Gumbo usually requires a dark brown roux for both flavor and color. The other key factor in the cooking is the holy trinity - onions, bell peppers  and celery. Cooked together these impart a deep flavor that make Cajun and Creole cooking pop. Keep in mind that you can add this to your chicken soup and soup stocks for a wonderful vegetal flavor. Again it's taken from the region's Gallic roots. In France it's known simply as mirepoix and used frequently to flavor coq au vin and lamb stew. You can also use it in any kind of stew from chicken to beef along with gravy for homemade pot pies. 

New Orleans is known for its' seafood , namely shrimp. Shrimp gumbo will undoubtedly be on many a party menu tonight but it also makes for a tasty week night dinner. It can be easily made in the crockpot so you don't have to worry about coming home from work and prepping like crazy. Of course you'll need the holy trinity  of onions celery and bell  peppers but these can be cut up the night before. It's then adding tomato , shrimp cornstarch and  chicken broth along with a variety of herbs and  hot sauce to the mix. There's no roux to be made, The cornstarch thickens it. Po' boys, those delicious sandwiches can be made any time of the year and they're perfect for barbecues. You can just grill shrimp or chicken and place it on French bread with lettuce , tomatoes and pickles. Slather a homemade remoulade sauce on this for an authentic NOLA flavor. A remoulade sauce is simply mayo mixed with pickle juice or chopped pickles, mustard, horse radish, and garlic along with paprika for color. It's also good topping burgers and crab cakes. Add a touch of olive oil and vinegar for a spicy salad dressing. Mardi Gras ends with the sweet King Cake . Without the traditional green purple and gold icing , it's just a cinnamon roll bread that can be made for any brunch. 

You don't have to wait until Mardi Gras to enjoy its' fun and flavorful foods. They can be made throughout the year, giving zing and zest to any meal. Let the good times roll whenever you want.

Your Own Charcuterie

 Charcuterie used to mean just a plate of sliced cold cuts, some cheese and a host of bread and crackers .now it['s a board filled with everything from seafood to candy. Anything you can pull together makes for an interesting buffet for the New Year.

Charcuterie boards of any type are easy to make up and fun to nibble from. You don't have to have a traditional wooden board that's typically used for cheeses. any flat surface will do. You can use a platter or a large enough cutting board. Even baking sheets will do in a pinch. Should you line it with aluminum foil? You can.it guarantees an easy  clean up however you can also use large , pretty napkins too. paper ones can work as well. Traditional charcuterie platters originated in France and featured mostly pork  based cold cuts like Jambon de Bayonne and Jambon de Paris, the last can be bought in Whole Foods.  Thickly sliced ham and thickly sliced salame are the basis of an American charcuterie board. You can also include prosciutto and sopprasutta as well. Cheeses are a must. Brie would be a good choice along with Gruyere and a soft cheese like Edam. If you want include goat cheese as well. some add cornichons,  along with green and black olives.Both bread and crackers should be included. Thinly sliced French and Italian bread are perfect for this but sourdough and even rye or pumpernickel can be used. Any kind of cracker is perfect. Vary them, from  buttery Ritz to Japanese rice ones.

The definition has expanded to include other foods. Vegans can delight in a meat free board. Tofurky and Light life have a good selection of cold cuts. You can get ham , turkey and pepperoni and even bologna. Cheeses aren't a problem either. Miyoko's  Creamery has an excellent array of them, from mozzarella to  creamy Road house.  You could even serve the company's plant based  butter on warmed, crusty slices of sourdough bread. Violife also has some tasty dairy free fromages like Provolone and feta. You can still serve cornichons along with  some other veggies such as artichoke hearts  and fresh veggies with a vinaigrette dip. Seafood is taking its' turn at the charcuterie board. Shrimp cocktail is a must, Make sure you have little cups or ramekins of shrimp sauce with it.Crab legs can also be included along with lobster tails. These can be served warm or cold, with either individual lemon slices or melted butter. If you're ambitious enough you could also make California or dragon rolls too with it. Lox can also be served if you want too along with gravlax. Keep the veggies to a minimum and mix the cheese. Try a small sampling of carrots , celery or broccoli with a simple olive oil and lemon or vinegar dressing.

There's nothing like a charcuterie board. Go with the traditional or try a variation. either way is a great fun feast.

An Appreciation Of A Wine Lover

Becky Wasserman's name was not known among everyday wine lovers but to wine critics and oenophiles, she was the force behind those rich red burgundies. SHe  brought them to the forefront, to be loved and rejoiced by those new to wine and those passionate about a good flavorful reds

Eric Asimove, the drinks critic wrote a tribute to Ms Wasserman_Hone who passed in August in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Ms Wasserman_Hone (she later married Englishman Russell Hone) started selling wine barrels to Californian wine makers. She quickly acquired a knowledge of the terroir and wines.She then transitioned to identifying promising young producers and matching them with American wine merchants.When she started, this province in east central France was dominated by big merchants who bought grapes and wine from smaller wine makers or vignerons and then sold the wine under their labels Of course, these merchants prospered instead of the farmers.The produce was also subjected to arbitrary price changes or not to be bought at all, this coming from the merchants.

However Ms. WaSserman was one of the agents of change who challenged this. Often she was the way in for a lot of producers, introducing them to the world.Yet she wasn't motivated by money She  wanted the wines and culture of her adopted Burgundy to be seen and known."If we don"t drink it we don"t sell it" became her mantra for her company Becky Wasserman and Company. Even in the Eighties she foresaw that Burgundy's future lie in re-embracing the sort of farming that existed before chemical farming , that is farming that relies on pesticides.This allows for grapes and wines to be more expressive,She sided with rebel winemaker Rene Lafon of Domain Comte Lafon of Meursault. He stuck with traidtion and grew grapes without the help of any chemicals> Ms WAsserman also worked with vintners jn Alsace and also hosted Burgundy symposiums in her house ar Bouen.

Ms. Wasserman Hone left a tremendous legacy for burgundies and oenophiles. It will keep on going  as more vintners  embrace chemical free farming. This will bring in a new more organic wine.

Lentils The Truly Versatile Legume

 Lentils are one of the most basic legumes. They're also one of the most versatile, lending themselves to all sorts of dishes. Home chefs can try them with a variety of different recipes, all good for you and good tasting.

David Tanis knows this and loves them so much they were featured in his column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He gives such diverse recipes as lentil loaf a type of bread along with a smoky lentil stew with leeks and potatoes and spaghetti with lentils, tomatoes and fennel. What is interesting is that there are many different kind of lentils, He suggests that if the meal is heading into the Spanish direction then use Pardina lentils, a small brown variety good for stews, soups and salads.For an Italian based dishes use Castelluccio ones from Umbria, Turkish dishes need split red lentils which are also the base of the Indian daal. There are also yellow ones ones and black or Beluga lentils that resemble caviar roe.Lentil soup requires a sturdier kind, namely the Lentille de Puy or French lentils. These are a greenish blue color and have a thick skin which makes them pop in the mouth when bitten. This also makes them ideal for hot soup, because they don't become mushy.  Keep in mind that olive oil brings out the flavor of any kind of lentil so drizzle extra fruity olive oil on the dishes.

One of the most intriguing dishes Mr. Tanis gives is the lentil loaf. This is made with red lentils along with sauteed onions  which are mashed in a food processor. Eggs and rolled oats are also included to give the loaf shape .It's a flavorful one , zinged up with cayenne, garlic and cumin along with cilantro. Cucumber slices in sour cream are the side dish with it to cool off the heat from the spices used. A different dish and perfect for the fall is the smoky lentil stew with leeks and potatoes. The Spanish Pardina lentil is used here cooked with potatoes and leeks along with onions and garlic . Saffron and pimento dulce or sweet smoked paprika give it a Spanish vibe. Also adding to this is canned chopped tomato with  its' juice, There's also sherry vinegar to give it some tang. Another idea is putting the lentils into a pasta sauce. Mr. Tanis has them boiled with a Parmesan cheese rind. For the tomatoes, you can add passata - an uncooked tomato puree that's been purged of skins ans seeds or crushed canned ones. There's also fennel bulbs, fronds and crushed seeds added as well as a small onion and red pepper flakes. The pasta used is spaghetti and its' cooked al dente for some texture.You could also use the heartier bucatini, the thicker drinking straw kind too.

Lentils are perfect in any dish. Try it in a loaf for an entirely different spin or in traditional stews and pasta sauces. They are flavorful and versatile, the perfect ingredient for any kitchen.

Autumn in France

 One of the most desirable countries  in the world is France. Even better is when cooler weather descends on this country of sophisticated cities and seaports and rustic mountains and valleys. Traveling there with the lockdown is virtually impossible. There is one way to have a delicious French meal.Cooking it from your kitchen,it's a way of getting a taste of Gallic cuisine

David Tanis provided an amazing slew of recipes in yesterday's New York Times Food section. This is a hearty fare, perfect to make for the chilly days ahead.He starts out with a salad he once had in Normandy. He had it was when he was working in Paris, and taking weekends to this  historic northern country side on the English Channel. He combines beets and tomatoes with scallions, dill and watercress. Two kinds of beets are used, golden and ruby red. The tomatoes used can be yellow or red. It's dressed with a simple Dijon mustard infused  red wine vinaigrette. The beets have to be cooked separately (and no, Mr Tanis doesn't recommend using the canned ones - no flavor) in baking dishes in a 400 degree F oven.They can be cooked up to two days in advance to make it easier timewise. They can be served first or with the main dish pan roasted duck with wild mushrooms. Mr. Tanis suggests using magret or the large breasts of the Muscovy duck.Each is twelve ounces which translate into two portions each.as in typical Gallic style with a sauce flavored with red wine and trumpet mushrooms.It is a labor intensive dish with washing the mushrooms and prepping and scoring the duck breasts. The sauce and meat are made separately.More mushrooms are sauteed in the extra duck fat that's been trimmed off the breasts and then served with the meat and parsley.

The piece de resistance of any French dinner is the dessert. Mr. Tanis doesn't disappoint here.He offers up the classic Gallic lemon tart with a buttery cookie like crust. This recipe is beautifully balanced.It's neither too sweet or too puckery. There's a hint of more color thanks to the addition of freshly grated lime zest. The tart starts out with a crust made with  half a stick of butter and one egg. There's white flour and sugar too in it . Like a good cookie dough, it's refrigerated for an hour in the fridge so  it's not too soft when handled. You can even make it two days in advance. It's chilled again after it's been put in the pie pan and until the filling is added. The filling is a mix of lemon and lime juices and zests along with four large eggs and four large egg yolks.Granulated sugar is added to counterbalance the tartness. This is a type of lemon curd and like it , butter is added to make it creamy.This is made in a saucepan over a medium heat and try not to curdle it. Everything is then whisked together and then poured  through a sieve into the crust where it's baked in a 350 degree F oven for only ten minutes. Dust with confectioner's sugar for a nice touch.

There's nothing like France in the fall. This dinner will make you feel like you're there, with rich flavors and textures. It's the perfect culinary visit , right from your kitchen.

Sweets For Mardi Gras

What better way to celebrate Mardi Gras than with sweets. It's a tasty way to celebrate all the bad for you treats before heading into austere Lent. There are so many different ones that you can have a feast of them.

One of the most famous is the King Cake. This is more of a bread, originating in France and also popular in Switzerland and Belgium. The sweet airy breads are actually made for Epiphany , hence the name, and continue well into the Mardi Gras season. The recipe does involve yeast as well as some kneading. Some recipes have cardamon and cinnamon along with citron and raisins. These last can be omitted. A vegan version can also be made. This involves subbing in cow's milk with almond milk and eggs with egg replacers (which can be found in the egg section of your grocery store). Vegan butter is also used and again you can use Country Crock's plant butters.The cake bread is braided and baked and then iced with a simple icing glaze. The fun part is adding the Mardi Gras colored sugars of green which represents faith, purple for justice and gold for power. Remember to add in a gold coin or plastic baby as the traditional "gift". You could also make mini King Cakes using Pillsbury Grand Cinnamon rolls. These are fun because you can add a gift to each mini cake so everyone wins.

Beignets are another Mardi Gras treat which can also be made all year round. Again this is basically a bread recipe, made with yeast and bread flour. Again it does require kneading along with another labor intensive step. Eggs and yeast are mixed together and then the bread flour is added. There's also shortening and frying in vegetable oil. They're then dredged in sifted powdered sugar. You could do a sprinkling of blended green, gold and purple sanding sugars to give them a Mardi Gras vibe. Vegetarians can enjoy their version. Again use egg replacers and vegan or vegetable shortening for texture.Use vegan evaporated milk such as Nature's Charm, made with coconut milk. It can be found at Wal-Mart and Whole Foods. Again, the vegetarian beignets are deep fried in vegetable oil. As for the powdered sugar, some vegans refuse to use it because there is animal bone char in it. You can create your own by mixing ground white sugar  or evaporated cane sugar and cornstarch. Can beignets be fried in an air fryer? Yes! They'll still be crisp and hot. They're cooked at about 390 F for three minutes each on each side.

Enjoy these sweet treats to be made for Mardi Gras. They're a great way to celebrate a decadent holiday. Enjoy them with a cafe au lait or Sazarec or Hurricane cocktail!

Inclusion Dining

As a country we are more divided as ever - unlike how we were eighteen years ago. Tragedy brought us solidarity that was inclusive of everyone.We banded and bonded together, sharing hearts and help. We can still be more together - even if it's in the small act of eating out.

Here's a challenge to anyone out there, but especially here in the States. Eat at a restaurant whose cuisine is new to you. It can be any kind , from Ethiopian to American. It's a way of not only supporting your local businesses but also also expanding your and your family's palates. Nowadays it's easy , thanks to the internet. Should you read the Yelp or any other reviews? That's up to you. One, the site does point out an eatery's best dishes and what you should try. On the other hand, you may find a sour review or two. Ignore those. What some people may find not to their tastes may be fine for another.  The best way to glean info is to visit the restaurant's website, As we all know there will be the menus and some will even have the dishes explained along with the ingredients. It's a good way to show the kids what  they can order and pick out what may appeal to them before going. You can also try a take out before visiting there for a lunch and dinner. Get a sampler so favorites can be established.

Where should you go first?If you live near any big city or town, then you know there will be ethnic neighborhoods with restaurants catering to locals. These are probably the most authentic , with foods and beverages made exactly as they would be back home. I 'm fortunate to live only two towns away from Paterson, New Jersey. It has always been an ethnically diverse town thanks to the silk industry drawing in silk weavers from Piedmonte, Italy, Lyons, France and Damascus, Syria.The last is still a strong influence and thanks to it, discovered my new found love of Middle Eastern food. It's a city that has everything from Turkish and Syrian to South American. There are even a hot dog stands that have been there for almost 100 years and still family owned. What about the suburbs? Strip malls. These have some of the best privately owned cafes and restaurants from Indian to Taiwanese. They often have lunch time buffets where you can sample all their top dishes along with coupons in your local Val Pack. Take advantage of both.

A day our enemies thought would divide us brought us together. We should do the same now, even if it's trivial as trying out a new cuisine. It not only expands our palates but our hearts as well.

True Blue Bouillabaisse

One of the French Riviera 's most defining dishes is bouillabaisse. This thick fish stew defines what the flavor of Mediterranean  cooking is all about - a cornucopia of seafood mingled with a vast garden of herbs and spices. Where to get this amazing dish? Marseille - where cooking and eating the soup like stew originates.

Elaine Sciolino, a sometimes contributor to the New York Times Food section wrote about bouillabaisse in yesterday Food section. she had the lucky chance to enjoy the sun and sand of the area along with finding the perfect bowl.Ms Sciolino may have been the only one craving the dish. Very few Marseillaises eat the famed soup at restaurants. If they do, it's usually at home, from a family recipe.They would rather have either  pizza from food trucks or go to the city's North African restaurants for couscous.It is one of the area's earliest dishes, originating from the Greeks who colonized Marseille in 600 BC.  The recipe stems from kakavia and evolved from a supposed
 dish of the gods (Venus , the Roman goddess of love turned it into a sleeping potion for  her husband , Vulcan, while she dallied with her lover, Mars) . Local fisherman embraced it, adding the plentiful rockfish to the recipe. Their descendants turn up their noses at it. Bouillabaisse , they have discerned , is only for tourists. There's a rumor throughout France that the recipe has gone the way of coq au vin or blanquette de veau, traditional mid 20th Century dishes.Ms . Sciolino admits that finding it was somewhat of a quest.

Even though bouillabaisse has been served since the 18th Century, it is hard to find a restaurant that serves a good one.The port area makes up mediocre ones for tourists while the fancier and known eatery Le Petit Nice, creates a deconstructed  one, thanks to its' famed chef Gerald Passedat. Ms. Sciolino headed to the small resort community Carry-le-Rouet twenty miles northwest of Vieux Port. Since it requires expensive ingredients and is difficult to make you have to order it two days in advance. The chef,  Christophe Thullier prepared his the classic way. His stock was from tiny and gutted rockfish along with tomatoes, fennel, a mix of spices, olive oil and water. It's boiled for twenty minutes until it's thickened and then strained through a sieve. At the same time five types of rockfish is marinated for five hours in a blend of white wine,  and olive oil. Thyme, rosemary, saffron, paprika are added along with a  lot of garlic and more saffron.The fish is thrown into the broth at the last minute. The broth , however was served first , with slices of crusty and toasted French bread. The fish is served secondly and mixed with the broth. The soup is opaque and gritty, with the fish settling at the bowl's bottom.Still, it's worth the trip. Can it be made at home? Yes, but it may not be same as what's made in the south of France.

If you want to get the real bouillabaisse, then head to Marseille. It is worth the trip,not just for that, but the other recipes Provence has  to offer. The lure is strong , like the aroma of a good soup.

Anthony Bourdain That Rare Oyster

Anthony Bourdain  was literally the epitome of at bon vivant  a good liver. He took life and food by the horns , opening up our eyes and palates. he was definitely one of a kind.

Maybe it was his French blood that made him adore food , his father's family was from Bordeaux or his mother's gutsy American attitude that emboldened him with trying different cuisines. It left him with a passion for the bold and adventurous. This kid from Leonia ,New Jersey tried the world's wildest and most sophisticated dishes , while still being true to his roots. he may have  featured the best restaurants  but also highlighted Hiram's Hot Dogs in nearby Fort Lee. His interest  in food started when he was on a family holiday  in France when he tried an oyster for the first time on an oyster boat. He went to Vassar and worked at seafood restaurants in Provincetown Mass. he dropped out of Vassar and since loved cooking, enrolled at the Culinary Institute of America or the CIA. after graduation in 1978, he ran the top restaurants of the day, Sullivan's, the Supper Club and One Fifth Avenue. His biggest break was when he became the executive chef at the glamourous Les Halles restaurant in Manhattan.

His television career started with Kitchen Confidential in 2000 after he published a book of the same name. His second book, A Cook's Tour in 2001, hit the New York Times' best sellers list. It was about his food and cooking exploits. In 2006 he shot the TV show Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations. It had one memorable scene in which the Israel-Lebanon conflict happened during filming in Beirut. There was footage of him with Hezbollah supporters along with being holed up with expatriates in the hotel. Two other shows followed. One was The Layover on the Food Channel and the other was the no holds barred.Parts Unknown. This last was wildly popular as he garnered former president Obama as a guest during a trip to Vietnam. Bourdain also took the show to Libya, Tokyo, Punjab, Jamaica, Ethiopia, Nigeria and Armenia. Audiences, especially foodies, loved it, his daringness to try bizarre foods and his love of travel. He also made it to The Simpsons as well as on Inked where he got a tattoo in the episode. He also produced and starred in the movie about food waste called. Wasted:The Story Of Food Waste.

Anthony Bourdain was one of  a kind, an unusual dish to be savored.  There will never be one quite like him. He was one of a kind - that rare oyster with the amazing flavor.

A Gastronomic Love Story

Imagine the man of your dreams as being witty  and sophisticated , a great cook and gastronome.Imagine him taking you on tours as the exotic souks of Morocco and the best Michelin restaurants in Europe. Susan Washburn Buckley didn't have to imagine. The man of her dreams was the very real bon vivant Peter Buckley  - a larger than life figure who had an eye for adventure and great food. Their marriage is now the subject of Ms.Washburn-Buckley's new book and it is a wonderful, flavorful romp,

Eating With Peter  (Arcade Press 2018) is a tasty valentine to Peter Buckley, who started out as a photographer  as well as a writer He grew up in France with his soignee mother Elinor Hays Buckley, known in her own right as a socialite.,There Peter picked up his undying love for all things French , especially the food and wine. Along the way he caught the eye of Susan Washburn, who worked at her publishing company, Holt, Rinehart and Winston. They eventually married and their union led to some amazing gastronomic adventures. To be honest, I usually don't like the new hybrid of memoir/cookbook. The stories leading up to a promised dish can be tedious, but not with this book, I absolutely loved it!!!!.I couldn;t wait to see what the next exciting chapter held . Ms. Washburn   is famous for writing Young Adult books on American history She should definitely write more for adults. Her chapters are so well crafted that I felt like I was standing in the warm waters of the Caribbean with them as they dived for fresh sea urchins to eat or breathing in the exotic spices of a Fez market. I also loved how Ernest Hemingway and his wife Mary, especially the last, weave in and out of the chapters. Peter and Hemingway were friends, sharing a love of bull fighting. Ms. Washburn's style can only be described as sparkling - as sparkling as the champagne she and her husband  sipped.It is never boring , always fresh with a crisp wryness to it.

Each chapter has a recipe or a few at the end of it. Even the one featuring transporting their Bernese mountain dog, Nora to France  has a toothsome recipe for dog biscuits. The recipes excited me,I definitely want to try the gazpacho recipe  this summer. (I would love to try it now but somehow it's not the dish to have in chilly late winter). Many of the French recipes come from French  and Northern Italian chefs. Thanks to the Buckleys and their recipe for the heavenly sounding Gratin Dauphinois a l Ermitarge, a scalloped potato recipe taken from the kitchen of the famed Maurice Tuccinardi.The well known Troigrois, brothers Jean and Pierre, make an appearance as does their recipe for viand glace. It is a leaf taken from their actual cookbook so the recipe is  entirely in Frenc.h  Mary Hemingway's recipe is here also for her seviche, a delightful union of lime juice , onions and red peppers used to "cook" seafood. Peter Buckley was also a writer too  and he wrote a cookbook just on raw food, thirty years before it became de rigueur. His recipe for couscous salad is a refreshing mix of couscous cooked with lemon juice and spiked with  cherry tomatoes , chopped peppers and almonds. Both Buckleys were consummate New Yorkers and there is a chapter on the city's Union Square market as well as on the European ones . Any home chef can recreate Peter's transcendental beans recipe.There is only one dessert dish and that is Ms. Buckley's blueberry one made with a buttery French influenced crust.

Eating With Peter is a delicious romp through the world of food and adventure. Susan Washburn brings  us into that world with her amazing descriptive chapters and recipes. it is the ultimate foodie book.

The Best Of The Grapes 2017

Not only was this the year for good food and good restaurants it was also the year for good wines. They came from all over, from Portugal to France, to Italy. These are the perfect wines for giving
 and feasting during this holiday season.

Eric Asimov gave his top ten choices for 2017.Not surprisingly, they're all imports. For those looking for a red that can go with everything from an elaborate crown roast to a humble minestrone choose the 2015 Rosso Viola from the Luciano Saetti vineyards.It's also great for those with allergies because it's made without any sulfur dioxide , the common  stabilizer used in more commercial wines.It's dry, earthy and meaty.thanks to the salamino grapes that make it. Aligote grapes figure in the Roulots wineries offerings. According to Mr. Asimov, his are exceptional. There's a freshness to them , along with a saltiness . The wine is manufactured from the historic Burgundy region  Another wine he likes come from the Bergerac region in southwestern France. The area, Pecharmant, is home to the Britsh mystery writer, Martin Walker, author of the Bruno mysteries. He and Mr. Asimov shared a 2005 Pecharmant from Tireand, with another literary connection. The owner is Francois Xavier de Saint Exupery is the cousin of Antoine de St.Exupery, author of  The Little Prince. The wine itself  is changing, losing its' fruitiness to more complex and richer flavors.

Portugal was a destination for the Asmovs and they took advantage of the country's great vineyards and wines.He tried a glass of the classic Madeira, Blandy's malmsey 1992. Even though it's quarter of a century old it's still considered a baby. Most can last for decades and even centuries.It was without the usual cloying sweetness, the flavor having an acidic complexity.Mr. Asimov also tried a classic one made from nebbiolo rose grape.It had been popular at one time , being planted in the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco.It was a pale colored wine , Barbaresco Podere del Pajore, fermented in 1970. Unfortunately the producer no longer exists and also has been said that the nebbiolo rose grapes never existed either.(although I did more research on line and found out it does exist and you can buy something similar, the Lei Li Rose 2014, not in Piedmonte but in Jerone Arizone (!) of all places. For those planning a winetasting party this holiday season, pair these wines with Melissa Clark''s gougere's cheese puffs filled with pancetta and sage. The recipe is flexible,Add anything you want , from anchovies and extra cheese to olives. herbs and garlic.

This holiday season try these wines. They are perfect for gift giving or dinners.Try them and taste why they the best of the year.

Your Best Ever Mini Guide To French Food

If you can cook French food, you've mastered one of the world's most complex yet most delicious cuisines>Many home chefs shy away from it, claiming it's too difficult. It's really isn;t thanks to a special section to tomorrow's New York Sunday Times. This isn't a spoiler alert.The New Essentials Of French Cooking is a keeper alert.

Melissa Clark is the author of this section which has some classic Gallic recipes as well one for a tagine, a North African dish popular with the French. Ms. Clark is the author of the weekly column A Good Appetite for the Times' Wednesday Food section. She has also  has authored several cookbooks, her last with famed Manhattan andFrench-born chefs, the famed Daniel Boulud and David Bouley. Their work in savory main meals and delectable pastries and have introduced many a
New Yorker to the subtleties of  French cooking. . Ms. Clark offers such basics as steak and omelets and fancier fare like quiches and souffles. What I found truly intriguing was each dish's history. Some like the omelet are adaptations from the  French, They have been around from ancient Rome. The same is true for the classic coq au vin, created by an annoyed Julius Caesar to give to the Gauls.
A variation of quiche was popular in ancient Egypt. Tangines may have entered the vocabulary and the country around the seventies but their history goes back to the Tenth  Century where Berber and Muslim cultures collided.

Another likable aspect is the why master it column  gracing every recipe. Ms.Clark gives encouraging reasons to make the dishes.Many home chefs would balk at the cassoulet recipe but she  explains as nothing more than a humble bean and meat stew. She does point out the negatives, that the dish is not one to make it on the fly. It does take planning as well as marinating the meats.Yet some of the ingredients , such as Great Northern beans  are easy to come by and easy to work with in the recipe. another plus is that she thoroughly explains the steps , offering how tos that any chef, from novice to experienced can follow. For those that are still put off by le cuisine Francais, there are simple recipes. Try the steak recipe with a red wine sauce.It's a mix of Cognac and brandy added to sauteed shallots.The sauce is then deglazed with chicken stock  and then butter and chives are added. This will go well with the butter cooked steaks. Serve with the mouthwatering  Pomme Anna, , a buttery crispy, baked cake  of thinly sliced potato slices.If you get brave enough, finish with a dessert of the airy bittersweet chocolate souffle.

The New Essentials of French Cooking is a must save for home chefs. Itis the best beginner's guide to  French cooking. Save this special pull out and try the recipes.There is nothing like the cuisine Francaise!

Restaurants That Change The World

Restaurants are an important part of our culture.They are responsible for foods trends and introducing international  cuisines to communities . There's a new book celebrating them and their impact on the American diet, featuring some of the US's most famous eateries.

Food critic and regular contributor, Tejal Rao wrote about this great new book featuring  the most influential restaurants in today's New York Times Food section. "Ten Restaurants That Changed America" (W.W. Norton and Company Publishers) was written by Paul Friedman who is surprisingly a medieval history professor at Yale University. He took on the massive task of researching two hundred years of restaurants , culling through hundreds of thousands of restaurants to culminate in the top ten. The list spans the 19th and 20th Centuries and the American continent. One of the first and most famous is New York's Delmonico, the city's most famous eatery. It started in 1827 as a French pastry shop by the Swiss born Delmonico brothers. They were the first and the most instrumental in bringing a sit down restaurant to a city full of oyster stands and rowdy , boisterous taverns that served just basic dishes., It was the first restaurant to import foods, namely truffles from the Dordogne region of France. Delmonico's also was one of the first to use local fish and turtles caught from the Eastern seaboard. Their menu was the gold standard for all French restaurants for one hundred years.

Chain restaurants such as Howard Johnson''s and Schraft's also changed American eating and paved the way for fast food giants such as McDonald's and Wendy's. Howard Johnson's , still going and famed for their fried clams, pioneered the idea of franchise restaurants, They were also the first for strategic planning, situating restaurants along highways.The idea appealed to traveling families who didn't want to eat at the truck stops ,mostly populated by truckers and sales reps. Schraft's , also was an innovator, It started earlier , in the 1910's and was a Northeastern chain of candy stores. It added a lunch counter and seats, offering a new concept- dining options for unescorted women. Restaurants would not sit women without a male companion. Schraft's didn't believe in that. They also were the first business to hire women as waitresses along with giving maternity leave to pregnant workers.Other restaurants that made a difference were Mama Leone's, Alice Water's Chez Panisse , the famed Sylvia's in Harlem , the equally famed Antoine''s in New Orleans and The Mandarin. In one way or another they  have influenced generations of restaurant owners and chefs.

Restaurants have always been important in American history and culture. "Ten Restaurants  ThatChanged America" shows just that, how they influenced our eating and cooking habits.It is a fascinating read into how vital these eateries are to our psyche and image.

Tuscon The Next Food Heritage Site

Tuscon Arizona may be known for lavish spas or beautiful sunsets but food? Surprisingly this desert town is now part of the Unesco World Heritage sites joining the more culinary sophisticated cities  like Lyons, France and Chengdu, China. Tuscon has deep roots to food, along with a varied indigenous and European diet, started centuries ago.

Kim Severson, a regular contributor, wrote about this interesting food-centric city and its' recent honor in today's New York Times Food section.Eight months ago it was the only city in the United States to be designated a City of Gastronomy by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization, known by the acronym Unesco. About six years ago the international agency began including food as a part of a cultural heritage worth protecting as it recognizes and protects such diverse dishes as Armenian lavash,the recipes from the Mediterranean diet and the lush gastronomic meals of the French, Tuscon joins not only Chengdu and Lyons but also Parma, Italy,Bergen, Norway and Ensenada, Mexico, The reason why this southern Arizona was selected was explained by its'officer for historic presentation, and the author of the application, Dr. Jonathan Mabry. Towns were chosen because the designation will make a difference. Still, it's a puzzler. After all there is New York City, although the city doesn't celebrate it's indigenous culinary
 heritage  (which is obvious in the oyster beds in surrounding waters and acres of wild grapes grown just outside the city).

Tuscon has a history that stretches back 4,000 years when it was a farming community to local tribes such as the HoHokan and Tohono O'odham.Dr. Mabry was one of the archaeologists, hired by the city in 2000 for a dig  not far from the downtown section. What he found was amazing, There were layers of layers of irrigation trenches and then charred corn.It was proof that this modern day city was built on top of a four millennia old farming village. The surrounding desert can still yield up interesting crops that have created unique dishes with a definite Southwestern taste. There has always been agave,cactus pads and amaranth along with tiny wild peppers called chiltepin. Mesquite is not only used for barbecuing  but also used for baking cookies thanks to its' pods being pounded into a sweet flour.. Descendants of the fruits trees, first planted by Italian born ,Reverend Eusebio Francisco Kino in the 1600's yield up quince, figs and white pomegranates, the last with a taste that combines apples and grapefruits. Tuscon chefs also use cholla buds that bloom into cactus flowers in salsas and salads. They have a vague asparagus flavor  which makes them also good for certain  soups. The one tribe, Tohono O'odham, dry them and sell the buds in jars at the local San Xavier Co-op Farm. This devotion to creating livelihoods from heritage food is what got it noticed from Unesco.

Tuscon is a fascinating city full of food history and unique flavors. Unesco was right in choosing it as a World Heritage Site. It is fascinating from so many angles, both in its' story and in its' foods.

In Situ - A Restaurant Celebrating The Art Of Cooking

Many restaurants take pride  in signature dishes. After all , they're what give any eatery, bistro or cafe their reputation and following. Yet a new restaurant in San Francisco is doing the opposite. The chef is taking world famous  recipes from restaurants around the world and putting a new spin on them.

Pete Wells interviewed In Situ's creator and chef, Corey Lee in his A Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section. The concept is unique in an industry where individuality is key to success,The restaurant with the closest ideology is Chicago''s Next, founded by Grant Achaz , which  completely changes menus every four months. Of course Chef Lee also owns a traditional restaurant, Benu where there is only seven main dishes to choose from.In Situ is sort of like a culinary art museum. Even the name, comes from the Latin phrase meaning a piece of art is embedded in its' original location. Its' menus  are folded and fastened with  metal museum admission tags and look like  guides to a gallery exhibition of works that are on temporary loan. One side of the menu depicts  a map of the world tilted on its' axis. The reason for this is showing a dislocation of sorts that hints' that there is a shift from the recipe's original location to In Situ's. Circles on the map show the many dishes many birthplaces.There is a key in the menu's right margin that gives each's ingredients ,it's originator;s name and the city where it was created.

  Chef Lee is so good that he  even earned praise from the famed WD-50 chef  Wylie Dufresne. What he had done with Chef Dufresne's signature dish shrimp and grits is nothing short of amazing.The grits in Chef Lee's interpretation are actually the shrimp repeatedly ground and fried married to pickled jalapeno slices.Another masterpiece is The Forest ,taken from Mirazur in Menton, France,The original dish created by Chef Mauro Colagreco fashioned this vegan dish to look like the woods outside his restaurant on the French Riviera,It involves recreating moss from a parsley soaked sponge cake while the bark is created from fried sunchoke peels. Chef Colagreco gave Chef Lee permission to use mushrooms from Northern California for true authenticity as opposed to ones used from Provence, A dish from the great eatery, Momufuku Ssam Bar is also on In Situ's menu. It is spicy pork sausage and rice cakes. Chef Lee amped up this ragout with sliced rice sticks,  turning it into a mapo-tofu.For dessert Chef Lee honors Chez Panisse,It is a salute to Alice Waters lemon ice cream  dish in a hollowed out lemon shell placed next to lemon sherbert. A lemon flavored cat's tongue or langue du chat shares the spotlight.

Chefs are usually encouraged to create signature dishes, reflecting their tastes and backgrounds Chef Corey Lee breaks away from that by putting his own spin on already famous dishes. The result is stunning and delicious, the perfect homage from a culinary master.