Sparkle On A Budget

 Champagne or anything bubbly is de rigeur for the New Year. Except there's a problem - like anything else it's risen in price? What to do then? Go for a sparkling wine.It;s basically the same thing but mouch more affordable. 

Regular contributor Eric Asimov gave a guide to the best sprakling whites in today's New York Times Food section.He does give a good choice; about twelves choices . Luckily great sparkling wine can be found anywhere and Mr Asimove went to a variety of different shops across Manhattan to get them.He calls them alternatives and not replacements. Keep in mind that if a vintner uses champagne grapes the end result will taste like it. Most use pinot noir or chardonnay grapes for this. Other will use chenin blance.The bubbly won;t have the same flavor. it will not be better or worse or just different. His choices are ones that are made with the same fermentation processes which is a fermented wine that;s gets refermented again to get that fizzy texture. He skipped ones that have already been bottled while fermenting. What drink works for New Year's celebrations. If you want French then go with Domaine De Montbourgeau Cremant Du Brut Zero NV,12 percent. This $36 dollar bottle comes from the Jura moutain area between France and Switzerland.It's dry and sublty herbal, racy and elegant in Mr. Asimov's words. There's also Benedicte Et Stephane Tissot Cremant Du Jura Extra Brut MV 12.85 Per Cent which is still an affordable $38 it's actually half chardonnaygrapes mixed with pinot noir ones along with trousseau and poulsard ones.It has pronounced citrus and herbal flavors.

If you want unusual, try a sparkling one made from chenin blanc. This is a white wime grape from the LOire Valley in south central France. The grape has the uncanny ability to be both bone dry and sweet. It's the fruit behind Francoise Chidane Montlouis-Sur-Loire Brut Nature MethodeTraditionelle 2020, 12 Per Cent. It;s one of the inexpensive ones at $33.It's a lacy ,light floral with a hint of honey, the perfect dessert wine if you want to ring in the New Year . Califormia is also represented in this list. Try Roederer Estate Anderson Valley Brut MV 12.5 PerCent. Again this is a good bargain at $33 dollars.It's flavor is more hetbal than mineral thanks to the mix of Chardonnay and Pinor Noir grapes making it. It has a freshness and elegance to it , making ot perfect with hors d'ouevres. Champagne and New York City go together but does sparkling wine and New York State? The answer is yes thanks to Jo Landron Atmospheres Methode Traditionelle Extra brut MV 11.5 Per Cent.It's a steal at $28/\.It's a combination of different grapes from the Chardonnay to the pinot noir with the fole blanche thrown in. Italy is also representd here in the Ferrari Trento Brut Metodo Classico NV 12.5 Per Cent.A gain this another great buy at $27.It comes from the Trento Aldige region of Northeastern Italy and has a nice balanced flavor

These are affordable sparklers that are perfect for rining in 2024. They'll make a difference in your parties and gatheringd. Try them for an enjoyabl sip.

Weedy Wine

 Does wine need anything more added to it? Most purists would say no. Seltzer and ice are off the table Yet there are some vintners that are combining marijuana with various blends.Is it legal. Not quite. Is it delcious ? For some , yes.

Eric Asimov wrote about this in hi s weekly The Pour column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He has tasted weed wine many times.. The first was when he was in college and th e wine drunk.It was delicious .It;'s colorwas a ruby red but had a tinge of orange. It reminded him of dorm rooms late at night. From then, he experienced it on both coasts and surprisingly in france where one would think it would be frowned upon.for decades winemakers with a taste for cannabis have made weed wine. The cannibis is added to the grapes as they ferment to achieve a doubly intoxicating sip.Mr. Asimov compares it to adding it to brownies ,an early form of edibles.The question is will those who  enjoy edibles switch over to this wine? It's hard to say. right now selling marijuana infused alcohol is illegal. It can be made and given as a private brew. 

Despite the fact that  recreational cannibis is legal in twnety two states , two territorities and Washington DC. and the medicinal kind in thirty-eight. it;s still illegal federally. The federal government prohibits the two being siold together while it;s OK to sell each separately.There are supposedly cannibus infused wines and beers but they 're in mae only . The drinks have been made with  dealcoholized liquid. It seems to be an open secret with older California wine makers who made it wen weed was illegal in the state. Bob Linquist of Qupe Wineries in Santa Barbara have been making it since the early Nineties.He says a lot fo people keep it under htier hat .It's secret,.You either know or you don;t. He learned from Bill Wathen of  Foxen Vinyards in Santa Barbara County. Mr. warhen has been fermenting cannibuis and grapes since the ealry 1970's as a student at California Polytechnic State University. he adds a pound to a 228 liter barrel. It's not powerful., calling it "liquid Valium."

Will weed wine catch on? Maybe.it's still a strange idea to mix the two.

For The Wine Lover

 What do you get a oenophile for Christmas? You could easily pick up a bottle of a good Merlot or Shiraz.However a more enjoyable idea would be a book about wine. Info and stories about the grape is always fun and interesting. It also makes for a nice change up than the usual bottle.

Eric Asimov explored this in his The Pour column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Getting the wine lover in your life a bottle can be a bit uninspired and boring.Give a book about said bottle and introduce culture and history. Champagne lovers will drink up Champagne Charlie : The Frenchman Who Taught Americans To Love Champagne.(Potomac Books ) by Don and Petie Kladstrup. Its' all about the 19th Century scion of a champagne company who introduced the bubbly to Americans and his misadventures during the   American Civil War. In more of the sparkling wine vein there is Rachel Signer's memoir You Gad me At Pet Nat  A Natural Wine Soaked Memoir(Hatchette) which is about her love and involvement with petillant natural,  an ancient style of sparkling wine revived by natural wine producers. It is a coming of age story Mr Asimov writes and it deals with love and back to earth farming. Robert V. Camuto's South of Somewhere : Wine, Food and the Soul Of Italy (University of Nebraska Press) tells of his ancestry's association with wine. Southern Italy, it's people  and the new generation taking over the old wineries. They give the industry a newer, fresher spin, all captured in Mr. Camuto's book.

There are also books on the terroirs. Portuguese wines are the highlight of Foot Trodden: Portugal and Wines That Time Forgot Interlink Publishing) by Simon J. Woolf and Ryan Opaz.It's all about the dynamics of Portuguese wine making. They show the insularity of Portuguese history along with challenges of the winemakers and the potential future oft he country's wines.Jasper Morris covers the ultimate terroir in Inside Burgundy (Berry Brothers and Rudd Press) This is the ultimate guide to the world's most famous wine country. Mr. Morris is an expert himself, living in the region and a retired wine merchant. He even addresses the fallout of climate change.He also covers the rising price of land that affects Burgundy's estates. On a more local note there is Acadamie du Vin Library's On California :From Napa To Nebbiolo _ Wine Tales From The Golden State. it is a collection of short selections from three dozen writers who offer impressionistic and thoughtful views on the state and its' wine making history.There are pieces  how California became an important part of the wine industry and world .

A bottle of wine lasts only for a while. A book about wine lasts forever. Get your oenophile one of theses for endless months and years of entertainment.

An Appreciation Of A Wine Lover

Becky Wasserman's name was not known among everyday wine lovers but to wine critics and oenophiles, she was the force behind those rich red burgundies. SHe  brought them to the forefront, to be loved and rejoiced by those new to wine and those passionate about a good flavorful reds

Eric Asimove, the drinks critic wrote a tribute to Ms Wasserman_Hone who passed in August in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Ms Wasserman_Hone (she later married Englishman Russell Hone) started selling wine barrels to Californian wine makers. She quickly acquired a knowledge of the terroir and wines.She then transitioned to identifying promising young producers and matching them with American wine merchants.When she started, this province in east central France was dominated by big merchants who bought grapes and wine from smaller wine makers or vignerons and then sold the wine under their labels Of course, these merchants prospered instead of the farmers.The produce was also subjected to arbitrary price changes or not to be bought at all, this coming from the merchants.

However Ms. WaSserman was one of the agents of change who challenged this. Often she was the way in for a lot of producers, introducing them to the world.Yet she wasn't motivated by money She  wanted the wines and culture of her adopted Burgundy to be seen and known."If we don"t drink it we don"t sell it" became her mantra for her company Becky Wasserman and Company. Even in the Eighties she foresaw that Burgundy's future lie in re-embracing the sort of farming that existed before chemical farming , that is farming that relies on pesticides.This allows for grapes and wines to be more expressive,She sided with rebel winemaker Rene Lafon of Domain Comte Lafon of Meursault. He stuck with traidtion and grew grapes without the help of any chemicals> Ms WAsserman also worked with vintners jn Alsace and also hosted Burgundy symposiums in her house ar Bouen.

Ms. Wasserman Hone left a tremendous legacy for burgundies and oenophiles. It will keep on going  as more vintners  embrace chemical free farming. This will bring in a new more organic wine.

The Forgotten Black WIne Professionals

It's strange to think that the wine industry can have prejudices. One would think the industry would be above that be and be more sophisticated and color blind. Yet it's not. There's a shocking amount of prejudice against people of color in every aspect , from sommelier to grower to reviewer. Hopefully, with the world rapidly changing it will be a thing of a past era.

Eric Asimov, who writes The Pour, the New York Times Food section's weekly wine review, wrote about this blatant but very rarely discussed racism. He interviewed African-Americans in from all aspects of the wine industry. All had the same experiences  which should never exist - not in the 21st Century, yet are still alive sadly enough. Mr. Asimov spoke with T.J. Douglas owner of The Urban Grape in Boston. He and his wife, Hadley, have this shop and also the business online. A white internet customer came into the store, walked by Mr. Douglas and went to a white sales rep, assuming he was the owner. Then there is Julia Coney, a Houston, wine writer and educator who regularly leads tasting and teaches wine education. yet as a consumer, wine merchants feel they have to tell her how to hold a wine glass and why she has to swirl it. They also steer her towards cheaper and sweeter wines, based on stereotypes.Growing tired of tokenism, she has created Black Wine Professionals, a database for African American wine growers and sellers. Stephen Satterfield , publisher of the quarterly food magazine, Whetstone. He was a sommelier but left due to the rampant racism.

Perhaps the most obvious is with Ntisiki Biyela, a South African wine marker. The industry has been white for the last four centuries, no surprise because the country suffered from apartheid since the early 1990's. Ms. Biyela was the first female black winemaker and in 2016 established her own company, Aslina Wines. Hers was the toughest battle (although all their battles were the toughest). She could not speak Afrikaans ,an offshoot of the Dutch accent and her fellow students asked why she was even there.  "You're not welcome here." was really its' undercurrent. Then as she moved into her career , growers didn't want to deal with her along with building an audience. Black South Africans are not versed in European wine speak. Ms. Biyela had to explain it in terms they would understand. Instead of a wine smelling like truffles  she would tell them it smells like amasi a sort of fermented milk. Others , from Carlton McCoy Junior, a master sommelier and Madeline Maldonado, a beverage distributor at Greenwich Village's Da Toscano have experienced white people's ignorance and stupidity.It is the same for wine server Andre Hueston Mack and Zwann Grays, the wine director at Olmsted. Yet it is Tammie Teclemriam, a Brooklyn freelance food and drinks writer who fired a good shot at Bon Appetit's editor-in-chief and his insensitivity towards African-Americans, and appearing in black face.He had to resign because of it.

The wine  industry, like the food industry should be free of prejudice and open to everyone. It's stupid and 19th Century to think that whites are better sommeliers and winemakers. Luckily it's the writers and publishers who will be shattering these old concepts.

Climate Change And Our Crops

Climate change is affecting everything in our lives. Its' worst impact is on our food. Crops are being decimated. Earth is being scorched. Can there be any hope? Or help for that matter.

That was the subject of an eye opening article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Eric Asimov wrote extensively on what's happening in Napa Valley in his The Pour column. The famed wine country is under serious assault thanks to the rampant wildfires that are basically ravaging the whole state.It's not only the flames that are threatening the vineyards. There are problems caused by the Pacific Gas and Electric Company , namely no electricity. They have intentionally shut down their power to prevent their equipment from igniting any more fires Wide sections of wine country are shut down for days at a time. Then there are the droughts and cold snaps along with heat waves that affect the plants and soil. What is even worse are some winegrowers of  lack of interest. They are more concerned with competition from nearby cannabis growers along with worry about Chinese tariffs. Add to that there are no government regulations when it comes to wineries and their carbon footprints.

That's all changing, thankfully with the help of trade associations and individuals who care about Napa's future.Unfortunately , they can't demand action: only persuade winegrowers to amend their habits. It is work. Programs have to be promoted in both English and Spanish to reduce water use,along with promoting soil life and health.There has to be habitats for beneficial wildlife and diminish the need for tractor work. One of the most important musts is preventing more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere from the soil.The last will be hard because the soil must be tilled and that releases the gas into the ozone.  Again some winemakers are on board. The Napa Vintners, a winemaker's association has launched the Napa Green program that promotes energy efficiency,conservation and environmental action through third party certification for vineyards and wineries. It also helps that wineries such as  Spottswoode has been farming organically for years.The winery is also adapting for a hotter future too. They may have been influenced by their president and chief executive, Beth Novak Miliken . She is the chair of the Napa Vintners and part of the Napa Green program. Another, Jackson Family Wines have made lighter bottles which enabled them to reduce their emissions by three per cent.

Climate change is affecting everything, but more importantly our crops. Hopefully Napa Valley will battle it as best it can and still produce good wines. Smart green planning and smart green actions will be able to save it.

The Best Of The Grapes 2017

Not only was this the year for good food and good restaurants it was also the year for good wines. They came from all over, from Portugal to France, to Italy. These are the perfect wines for giving
 and feasting during this holiday season.

Eric Asimov gave his top ten choices for 2017.Not surprisingly, they're all imports. For those looking for a red that can go with everything from an elaborate crown roast to a humble minestrone choose the 2015 Rosso Viola from the Luciano Saetti vineyards.It's also great for those with allergies because it's made without any sulfur dioxide , the common  stabilizer used in more commercial wines.It's dry, earthy and meaty.thanks to the salamino grapes that make it. Aligote grapes figure in the Roulots wineries offerings. According to Mr. Asimov, his are exceptional. There's a freshness to them , along with a saltiness . The wine is manufactured from the historic Burgundy region  Another wine he likes come from the Bergerac region in southwestern France. The area, Pecharmant, is home to the Britsh mystery writer, Martin Walker, author of the Bruno mysteries. He and Mr. Asimov shared a 2005 Pecharmant from Tireand, with another literary connection. The owner is Francois Xavier de Saint Exupery is the cousin of Antoine de St.Exupery, author of  The Little Prince. The wine itself  is changing, losing its' fruitiness to more complex and richer flavors.

Portugal was a destination for the Asmovs and they took advantage of the country's great vineyards and wines.He tried a glass of the classic Madeira, Blandy's malmsey 1992. Even though it's quarter of a century old it's still considered a baby. Most can last for decades and even centuries.It was without the usual cloying sweetness, the flavor having an acidic complexity.Mr. Asimov also tried a classic one made from nebbiolo rose grape.It had been popular at one time , being planted in the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco.It was a pale colored wine , Barbaresco Podere del Pajore, fermented in 1970. Unfortunately the producer no longer exists and also has been said that the nebbiolo rose grapes never existed either.(although I did more research on line and found out it does exist and you can buy something similar, the Lei Li Rose 2014, not in Piedmonte but in Jerone Arizone (!) of all places. For those planning a winetasting party this holiday season, pair these wines with Melissa Clark''s gougere's cheese puffs filled with pancetta and sage. The recipe is flexible,Add anything you want , from anchovies and extra cheese to olives. herbs and garlic.

This holiday season try these wines. They are perfect for gift giving or dinners.Try them and taste why they the best of the year.

Wines For A Week Night

Wine is an important component of any meal. It's especially important on a weeknight, where it helps to unwind after a stressful day. What to serve? That depends on what's cooking. Just don't be too serious about it. Save that for the meal.

Eric Asimov wrote an entire column about it in yesterday's New York Times Weeknight Cooking issue.  As he writes weeknight wines should be like easygoing comedies as opposed to Ingmar Bergman films. They should be delicious and refreshing without requiring rapt attention. Also the price shouldn't break the budget. Figure around ten dollars is fine. Most of what he recommends come from Italy, Germany, and France, but you could easily get ones from Spain,Portugal, Greece and California.it's just that there are more varieties and tastes coming from the first two.There are some that are close to twenty dollars and these are included in his list.One of the first and the best recommended is from Piemonte.It's  De Forville Langhe Nebbiolo.It's perfect with any kind of risotto or gnocchi,thanks to its' notes of sour cherry and roses.It's also hardy enough to pair well with grilled fennel laced sausages.Another wine, perfect with pasta or even just meatballs is Contra Soarda Veneto Rosso Gaggion 2012.This is made in northeastern Italy , It's made from the marzemino grape , a relatively unknown variety here in the States, but used for centuries in the Trentino, Lombardy and Veneto regions.

For those who would like a French wine then think Chateau Gravile-Lacoste Graves 2016. It's one of the less expensive wines.that is a combination of semillon,a golden yellow grape  ,sauvignon blanc and muscadelle.Serve it with seafood, such as steamed salmon or a light lemony shrimp scampi.Its also a good dessert wine too. German wines are always a nice addition to any meal wanting them.Try  a Knebel Mosel Reisling 2015,is dry, stony and pure. Its' minerality goes well with any kind of chicken dish, think an easy roasted one along with ham. It's perfect with shellfish, so think of serving it with any crab or lobster dish. Mr. Asimov also throws in a Portuguese wine, Tiago Teles Bairrada Maria da Graca 2015.It is  a ninety per cent blend of red- alfochiero and ten per cent white bical. It's fruity and flowery . Pair it with spicy stews or even peppery seafood gumbos. Grilled lamb kabobs and lamb chops are always a part of weeknight dining. Drink a truly Greek wine, Gal's Retinitis
Nobilis NV 2015.It's made with the more refreshing roditis instead of the usual dull savatiano.

There is a huge choice of wines to go with any weeknight dinner. Pick the one that pairs the best with what you're serving and go with it. It'll make for a relaxing drink after a hectic weekday.

Fun Summer Drinking

Warm weather means thirst. Nothing quenches it more  than a cooling cocktail, mocktail or glass of wine,.A chilled glass could accompany a barbecue or  just a sultry night spent with friends.Luckily there are a variety of libations that will work perfectly to satisfy.

Alison Roman wrote about this the other day in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. She gives some interesting flavor combos for summer mocktails. One of the most important factors to consider is not making the drink too sweet.It should mimic a cocktail with ingredients that nuance the harder stuff and mimic the heat. John deBary, the bar director at the famed Momufuko, believes this is what makes faux drinks just as zingy as the real things. He also adds vinegar (!) to the mixtures because it adds salinity and acidity - the same aspects that make up regular alcohol.Ms. Roman gives a recipe, hibiscus fizz, that combines unfiltered apple cider vinegar with hibiscus tea , agave nectar or honey and soda water. Another mocktail salted lemon ginger spritzer has ginger kombuicha  A more refreshing one combines cucumbers and tonic water to taste. To give it  a more realistic flavor, a few drops of  Peychaud bitters, a gentian based tonic is stirred in. . Other ideas include a Virgin Mary, a Bloody Mary without the vodka and a fizzy lemonade made with fresh squeezed lemons and San Pelligrino. water mixed with a simple sugar.

For those of you who want a kick then think rose.Eric Asimov mentioned this in his Pour Column.It is officially the wine of summer despite it being an anemic version of more robust reds and whites.
It is made en masse, and many roses do not have memorable flavors or notes. Yet there are some good ones out there. costing anywhere from fifteen to twenty dollars. One of the best is Idlewild Mendocino, County, The Flower, Flora and Fauna, made of dolcetto, nebbolo and barbera, It's the perfect barbecue pour because it's more savory than sweet, despite the fruity, sweet citrussy smell. For a true fruity wine, go for Jean-Paul Brun Beaujolais Rose le Rose d'Folie. ,The core ingredient is gamay grapes, the deep purple ones used for red wines. Another summery fruity rose is from the Wolffer Estate on Long Island's South Fork. Their's is peachy  and well balanced with a note of anise. Soak sliced fresh peaches in it for a truly decadent warm night dessert or snack. Want exotic? Then go for  the Georgian, from the country of Georgia, Pheasant's Tears which \is fermented in ancient amphora like vessels line with beeswax and buried underground. The aroma is one of flowers and herbs and is low in alcohol.

Summer drinking should be like the season itself. Light and airy, I  should also combat the heat with refreshing flavors and a smooth chilled texture.

The First Of The Summer Wines

These warms days and balmy nights call for a cool glass of wine.This is the time to enjoy one either with something fresh from the grill or the fruits of the season. Sit back and sip. Enjoy the wide array of summer wines.

Roses and white wines usually make the best bets for summer however a good hearty red wouldn't go amiss at a barbecue. For those grill days or nights think about a 2014 Penedo Borges Malbec.It's the perfect foil for a juicy steak or even a meaty homemade burger.It even has a  meaty aroma with top notes of wild herbs Its' flavor is that of ripe plums and dark fruits with a coating of vanilla .Another good red is the 2012 Cakebread Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon with its' aroma of chocolate and black current. It is rich and velvety, perfect with ribs or a T-bone.Australia has sent us some excellent vintages over the years and one summer standout is the 2013 Clonakilla Shiraz/ Viognier.It is expensive at $75 a bottle, but buy it for special occasions like milestone birthdays, engagements,graduations or promotions.Its' aroma is a mix if cracked pepper berries and plums.It's suggested that it should be served with a hog roast but it would be better with filet mignon or a Kansas City strip;A little less expensive and more down to earth are the Piedmontese Barberas. Eric Asimov mentioned it in his Pour column in the New York Times Food section on Wednesday. Have it with a homemade from the grill pizza that 's dense in sauce , cheese and toppings. It's a taste of Northern Italy in the backyard.

Whites and roses are the more preferred wines come the high temps. So many have poured themselves an iced glass of any of these as they 've cooled their feet in the pool or even the sprinkler. What are the best for sipping? They should be tart and refreshing , not to mention  ice cold. The most ideal summer wine is 2013 Domaine de l'Anjardiere La Noe and at $15 dollars a bottle a good buy. It's crisp, floral and easy to drink. It's a nice wine to serve at a brunch or outdoor bridal shower. Another ideal one is a 2014 Domaine Vincent Delaporte Sancerre Chavignol.It has a full, almost waxy purity of fruit with a bright clean finish. The  more expensive at $32 2012 Norman Hardie Chardonnay from New York's Niagara region, with a crispy white fruit taste. This is the time of year to mix the fruits of the season with wines. My family celebrates the season by adding fresh picked  strawberries to chilled flutes of Asti Spumente. The wine is from our region , Piedmonte and goes well with the berries.It's a heady alternative to sorbets along with better way to appreciate the berry's sweetness. Even though there's already a raspberry infused sparkling wine, fresh raspberries off the first harvest of the season is also wonderful in the wine. Think of it as an alternative to a tart or sorbet.

A summer's night calls for a chilled glass of a good wine. Pick one that compliments a hearty grilled steak or highlights the season's crop of berries. They're a refreshing and relaxing way to beat the heat.

The Perfect Wine Shop

We all  know what makes a good food store. We know it;s a wide variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, good customer service and a welcoming atmosphere. Now what makes a good wine shop? Ask anyone and they'll draw a blank. What does make a liquor store stand out?

The answer was a very good article in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Eric Asimov wrote about it in  his Pour Column and it's worth saving. Many people just walk into their local liquor store and overlook the obvious signs . One , the ambient temperature should be fifty four degrees - the temperature of a wine cellar. If your local wine shop feels a bit too warm , then walk out  and find a moderately cooler one.Also, another bad sign is if the place is flooded with sunlight.  A liquor store should be dark, otherwise  the light can damage the wine,especially if it's in clear or light blue bottles.
Dusty merchandise is also a telling sign, The staff has been lax in upkeep and possible negligent with inventory. Another sign of an attentive sales force. Look at the description listed under the bottles.Staff written ones means they're personally involved and a distinct point of view. They'll also offer you advice on what to  buy  and even offer samples.Buyers should also note if the bottles are laying down or standing up. It's a good sign if they're placed on their side, this way the cork won't dry out  and let in oxygen.This can oxidize the wine.

Mr. Asimov also visits some of the better wines shops across the country. He visits Bay Grape in San Francisco which even has wifi and tables  There are also discussion groups with sales people leading them and teaching shoppers about different types. All of this has made Bay Grape a popular wine shop with a loyal clientele. New York City also has wine shops that are much more. Take Black Label Wine Merchants..Sales clerks will either  engage shoppers in conversations to determine their likes and dislikes or back away from the more distant ones. Some stores even track their shoppers purchases, to better anticipate their next trips to the store as well as help them in the future. Wine shop owner.Vanessa Moore, of Unwined In Alexandria Virginia,trains her staff to recognize customers by name and get to know their tastes. There's also another family aspect  in the sense that she only buys from family wineries. She does change brands frequently  which can turn off devotees of certain wineries. Greenwich Village's Some Good Wine offers wines from places that normally aren't associated with wine making, from the Canary Islands, Corsica and the Czech Republic, thanks to owner Jeremy' Blocks passion for exotic wines.This means his customers can also expand their repertoire too.

A good wine shop has to have several different components to be successful. The bottom line is both the merchandise and the customers  have to be treated special. This translates into a liquor stoe with a long life and a loyal follwing.

The Best Of Summer Wines

What to bring to someone's house for a barbecue or dinner by the firepit? A summery, light wine that everyone will enjoy.It could be red or white, domestic or foreign as long as the wine is refreshing as a warm weather breeze or afternoon sun shower.

Eric Asimov  has given a list of the twenty best summer wines that was published in yesterday's New York Times Food section A summer  wine, he asserts should be less than fourteen per cent in alcohol. This makes for a lighter , more brut tasting drink along with out  any consequences . (think inebriation followed by a possible hangover or at least  a morning headache). Mr. Asimov  also recommends going for wines that are between $15 and $25 in price. It's not as cheap  and you get better quality along with being not so extravagantly priced.One of the more elegant is the Chateau Tour Grise Saumaur Brut Non dose 2004 12. percent 2004. This is a sparkling white wine made from the chenin blanc grape.It's pure and refreshing , perfect for any chicken or fish dinner, The wine has the perfect summery notes of honeysuckle, lemon and chamomile. Another French import is La Ferme Du Vert Gaillac L'Ange Lou Mousseux Brut,2013, 11 percent. This relatively new wine derives from Mauzac grapes, a little known variety grown in the French Southwest. It is light and sparkling too, with notes with apple , straw and herbal flavors. Serve it iced on a hot evening for complete refreshment.

A surprise wine is a merlot from Argentina, a country that usually gives us malbec.It is Bodega Chacra Amor Seco Pantagonia Merlot,2012, 14 percent and is a bit high on the alcohol side. Mr. Asimov likes its' deep and fruity flavor, redolent of red fruits..It has a bitterness that keeps it refreshing The company is also known for their pinot noirs too. Bring it to a party where there are steaks on the grill, waiting to be paired with it.Another dark wine comes from Piedmonte, De Forville Dolcetto D'Alba 2013 13.5 percent. It is another refreshing bitter wine with an undertone of dark chocolate. I would suggest having it  with an outdoor bagna calda., the anchovy and garlic dip  that the region is famed for. Both are perfect for a cooler summer night gathering. Celebrate July Fourth with an American wine made in the Finger Lakes region.This is Eminence Road Farm winery Ganay Noir  Cayuga Lake 2013, 11.3 percent.It is made from the area's grapes. It is light bodied , earthy and fruity along with being seriously delicious. Drink lightly chilled  when watching the fireworks.If you want another white wine, then try Julian Haart Mosel Riesling 1,000l, 2014 10.5 percent. It's a very light wine but has a mix of minerality and creaminess to it. Open it up to share with friends during a picnic.

The summer is here. Crack open a bottle of chilled wine on a warm evening or to round out a barbecue. There are many to choose from , and many to try.


/

The Sandwich Issue

Just in time for the warm weather is the New York Times Food section Sandwich issue  Everything about this culinary staple is explored, from it's origins to its variations. There are recipes ranging from hot to cold, from traditional to out there recipes. Read it and you'll never look at two slices of bread and fillings again.

Newcomers and regular contributors have given some interesting spins on this most basic of dishes.Even Florence Fabricant's Front Burner section is sandwich centered. There is even a review on a new butter knife that expertly shaves cold butter from the container along with where to buy Pullman loaves , the old fashioned bread that makes for the best sandwiches.Food regular , Jeff Gordonier talks with Manhattan's best chefs about different recipes.According to Justin Smillie the chef of Upland, a delicious one starts with a schmear of fat. This is the case with Mile's End chicken salad sandwich.. Crunch is also important, hence the reason that chicken salad sandwich has a layer of gribenes or fried chicken skin bits as a layer.. A real plus of any sandwich is having fresh ingredients. Tomatoes should not be put into the fridge or they';ll get mushy, ditto the same for lettuce. Both should have a refreshing crispness to them. One of the more interesting articles is by Pour contributor Eric Asimov as he pairs sandwiches with wines. What to drink with that Vietnamese lunch special?A German resiling. It pairs perfectly with pork and pickled sandwiches.Mr. Asimov suggests  to create a good pairing, depend on the sandwich's dominant notes. This is usually the meat but sometimes the spices or condiments used can  also dictate what goes well with it.

Of course there are recipes for the Earl of Sandwich's greatest and only invention. This also brings up why its' called that. It seems the earl of, John Montagu had ordered a  quick meal of meat placed between two slices of bread. Since he was the "It Boy" of the day , the name stuck although there probably had been variations for hundreds of years before. The modern day recipes from both Melissa Clark and David Tanis are mouth watering and easy to create. Try Ms Clark's yummy roast beef sandwich. Usually this is made with left over roast beef, but she makes it with freshly cooked meat, namely a boneless top loin roast.It came with a cap which helped in the taste and cooking. Served on rye , it was a sandwich and meat lover's dream. David Tanis went the seafood route with tuna. He takes the classic tuna fish sandwich and classes it up with olive oil - not mayonnaise. Salsa verde is also added along with anchovies. sliced hard boiled eggs decorate this open faced sandwich, placed on a crusty baguette or ciambatta roll.If these don't make you drool, then head over to the field guide in the middle of the paper. There are lists of fillings and breads and explanations of some of the more exotic ones like the Croque Monsiuer, Pan Bagnats and Banh Mi. You could also give American classics like the dagwood and the Po Boy a shot too.

It is the perfect times for picnic baskets stuffed with sandwiches. Use the New York Times Food sandwich issue to create yummy ones. You can have fun experimenting with everything from a simple roast beef to a more elaborate Croque Monsiuer.

Cool Drinks For Hot Days

Steamy weather calls for ice cold drinks.Nothing beats a fruity, flavorful libation, savored slowly as the summer sun sets.Stick with classic cocktails or try something new.As long as it chills you beat the heat, that's all that matters. Summer drink season was definitely on the minds of the editors at the Wednesday Dining section of The New York Times.The issue is dedicated almost entirely to all sorts of tasty liquid treats.Contributors from Rosie Schaap to Florence Fabricant and The Pour"s Eric Asimov guide readers through the easy alleyways of warm weather cocktails and aperitifs.Rosie Schaap has a whole liquor cabinet of fun to make drinks.There is a rule however if there are more than three ingredients ,then save the drink for fall.A true hot weather drink should be easy to make and uncomplicated in flavor.She suggests tequila and watermelon.Watermelon is the epitome of summer fruit and together Is a great party drink.The fruit is pureed and then added to an ice filled glass.After it the liquor along with a pinch of sea salt and a squeeze of lime.A pin a colada, that perennial poolside libation, is also included.This is simple concoction .Golden rum and pineapple juice along with Coco Lopez is blended together to create heaven.If you want to be truly decadent ,add whipped cream and pineapple slices to this. Summer drinking also means festive punches and sophisticated wines.Maria Newman contributes a trio of punches,suitable for any grown up soirée.What makes a good warm weather punch? According to the author of the book! Punch David Woodrich ,it's fruit, spice and spirits like rum, gin and even white wine.The recipes included are easy to follow and don't call for wild ingredients.For a Sunday shower or birthday party try the delightfully refreshing and aptly named Brunch Punch.This is a heavy dose of grapefruit juice mixed with vermouth,Campari, and gin.Florence Fabricant adds to the issue with her maraschino based drinks.Summer would be nothing without a chilled glass of wine.Eric Asimov gives some excellent suggestions such as Italian .French and Spanish sparklers.Try the star of Spain"s Basque region,Txakolina or Northern Italy's fruity Lambruscos.For sheer summery sophistication ,chill a bottle of Beaujolais from surise, surprise, the trendy East End of Long Island. Summer is a time of easy living and fun, relaxing drinks.Chill bottle of wine or create a tasty cocktail and sit back.Enjoy the sunset or pool with a glass of something marvelous and coo Ing.

A Sweet Summer Sherry

Summer is the time for seafood followed by an amazing white wine.Yet why not add a different twist and go with sherry. It's the perfect compliment to shellfish and fish and the way to do it is with a rich , sweet sherry . Seafood calls for a sweet, earthy accompanyment and that  fits the bill.

Eric Asimov explored Spanish sherries during a trip to Iberia  in his Pour column in New York Times Dining the other day. Sherry was created here  in the town of Jerez(hence the name). Although it does have old fashioned connotations the drink is a wine,being the ideal mate to any grilled meat.Most people usually have a  small glass of either fino or manzanilla in a cocktail as a before dinner aperitif. Sherry manufacturers such as Eduardo Ojeda of the Grupo Estevez wants a new generation to appreciate sherry and see it as the wine it is.

That said, beginners should look for sherries that have a rich amber color , almost a smoky caramel hue,It should be bone dry  and have a nutty taste like almonds. A good sherry should be smooth going down and should highlight the taste of  any meal from roast boar (a popular go with in  Iberia) or risotto.The best usually cost between $35 and $150  and of the more famous brands is Barbadillo.Affectionados also like El Maestro Sierra , Emilio Hidalgo and Valdespino. For your seafood dinner try something that is sec and will compliment anything from lobster to grilled shrimp.

Summer seafood is delicious. Bring out its' briny taste with a good sherry There are many to choose from  and any will be good as a compliment to the season's catch of the day.

Hip Gin

Can gin ever be hip?Or trendy? New York Times Dining writer Eric Asimov does. He expands his weekly Pour column to defend one of the most traditional liquors. Along with fellow Times writer Julia Moskin, he defends this sometimes maligned drink. In his revelations he finds that it is now trendy and on the verge of being rediscovered by young hipsters.

Gin itself has had somewhat of a bad reputation for the last two centuries. Originally created by a 17th Century Dutch doctor to cure stomach problems it fell into abuse a century later. Gin became the drink of choice amongst England's poor working class.It was finally accepted by the upper class after genteel companies like Beefeater and Boodles started to manufacture it. However there were bad connotations like gin soaked and bathtub gin to also deal with in the 20th Century. Nowadays most people prefer their drinks, especially summer ones mixed with the drink's rival vodka.

This is all changing. Gin is starting to be made by smaller distilleries, thus the drink is getting a taste makeover. Juniper is the main ingredient in it and different blends of botanicals and fruits are being added to give each distillery's type unique flavors, different from each other.Mr. Asimov predicts that some distilleries may take a crack at the Dutch classic genever, a form of gin , which has a malty edge to it.The best gins according to him and Ms. Moskin are still the standards:Beefeater,Tanqueray and Plymouth. These are better straight or mixed with juices, other liquors and seltzers. Smaller distilleries seem to produce gins that are not quite up to par or try too hard to make something amazing. Yet these do sell.

Looking for a hip drink? Try a punch or a gin fix  made with that classic gin. It's a refreshing departure  ye tit also harks back to another time when gin and tonics or a gin fizz ruled the summer cocktail party.

A Hot Drink For A Hot Time

The Memorial Day weekend brings the start of the summer party season.Drinks abound during this time .However they're usually watered down with club soda or just chilled white wine.It's time to think outside the usual bottle.It's time to add some punch - literally. This was the topic of yesterday's Pour column in the Dining section of Wednesday's New York Times. Eric Asimov wrote about changing up the usual summer drinks. He mentions some unusual choices yet they do fit in perfectly with those barbecued steaks and salads. A summer punch is always a fun extra to any party.It's rarely served during the colder months ,being the star of many a holiday party.Yet it's refreshing and unique when served during a hot weather gathering.Mr. Asimov uses the punch from the restaurant Prime Meats.It's called Too Hot To Hoot.It mixes the richness of a good bourbon with elderberry tea along with Angostura bitters and fresh strawberries and limes.It's a tasty fun drink that would go well with any grilled meat. Of course other drinks are also spotlighted and also work well for those who don't want a cup of punch.Mr.Asimov recommends a glass of chilled Chianti .This popular classic is usually associated with pasta however it's the perfect foil for a juicy grilled steak. There are other red wines that go well with burgers and ribs such as barbera , dolcetto and Valpolicetto.Roses and white wines,Summer standards are also good but try the lesser Pinot grigio such as Elena Walch, Alois Lageder of the Northeastern Italian vineyards.Another choice is a rose champagne such as Cerdon Bugey from theRenardat Fache. it's perfect go along with chicken stays or grilled salmon. The holiday season is upon us and with it a time to celebrate.Enjoy the warm summer nights with punch or champagne.?Look at the warm weather moon with a glass of Pinot Grigio or Chianti! it's the season to enjoy good drinks and good grilled Led or barbecued food!

The Warmth Of Port

Port is a great drink for this time of year. Its' warm, rich color is alluring and inviting.It has a sweet cinnamon taste with a dash of spiciness to it like a rich holiday cookie Port is also an excellent holiday drink as well, being the perfect dessert wine. You can serve it with dinner or afterward s with cheese or better yet homemade shortbreads.

It was the topic of the great Eric Asimov ( I really like his column) Pour, the Dining section's spirits column. He mentions vintage port which is big amongst affectionados.These are called tawnies because of their reddish brown color and have to be aged in wooden casks for at least ten years. This mellows them and softens their fieriness.A good tawny is about twenty years old.

Mr Asimov also throws in some interesting port recipes. They are Hot Port Sangaree and along with St Charles Punch and a cocktail simply called St.Valentine. The first is more of a hot mead like drink that combines the wine ,pomegranate ,molasses and Angostura bitters. The second is a punch famous at the St Charles Hotel of New Orleans.It sounds tasty with its' mix pf port, Cognac and lemon juice.. St Valentine is just port rum and Grand Marnier with a splash of lime. This last would be a good foil with extra salty appetizers.

Buy a lush bottle of port this holiday season.It is good on its as a dessert wine. It 's also good mixed with other liqueurs for a delicious and heady cocktail

Raise A Glass of Cider

This is the season for a chilled, heady glass of hard cider. it reflects the labors of the season as well as the abundance of a good harvest. The Times Dining section celebrated it in yesterdays' weekly column The Pour with Eric Asimov. Luckily Mr Asimov got to sample a few interesting ones at the Manhattan bar Dovetail. This make me envious of his job. Cider, refreshingly bracing and fruity crisp is probably the best drink out there.


I have always labored under the thought that most ciders were either English, American or French . Reading the article I found that there are refreshing Spanish one. One from the Basque hills was tried and found fresh and complex. It is not a sparkling clear brew but ratter a cloudy one. Mr. Asimov also tried ice cider. This is where cider is frozen and then the water is removed to create more of an apple wine. American ciders are also good if they're done right. Most of the ciders originate in New England in Either Vermont or new Hampshire, The bright red Redfield apple is primarily used . it gives cider it;s rich red wine like look and intricate flavor.

What was an even bigger surprise to me is that there is a pear cider. This makes sense because pears and apples are basically from the same family. There are also pear and apple ciders which sound heavenly . I can just imagine the taste of both fruits along with the kick of a good hard cider.

This is definitely the time for cider. the season calls for a heady cup of it . Not only that it;s a celebration of the harvest. It is the perfect drink for any fall feast !