Delicate and Cool Peach Dishes

Peaches are one of those warm weather treats that work well in every dessert.They are sweet but not overpowering ,juicy ,but not so much.The Italians know what to do with them especially during these sweltering times.Turn them into cool and elegant desserts, perfect ends to a summer 's late supper. Dave Tanis explored this in yesterday's City Kitchen column in yesterday's New YorkTimes Dining section.He has a couple of recipes perfect for the current crop.The first is the sheerly simple bath in red wine.Use a medium red wine along with sugar.For bite Mr. tanis gives the fillip of freshly ground black pepper along with Ginger and nutmeg.This cuts down on the sugar and makes the dish thoroughly refreshing.You can add a few blackberries ,as the recipe suggests, for color and variety. The second ish is a bit more labor intensive but still tasty.It is the absolutely heavenly zabaglione mixed with the peaches.Zabaglione or sabayon as the Piedmontese call it , is an ethereal blend of egg yolks,sugar and Marsala wine.This is whipped into a froth as it cooks in a bain marie or double boiler.The custard is then poured into individual frappé or coupe dishes.The peaches are layered on top until they lightly sink in. This is the time for ripe , juicy peaches.Try them in an elegant Italian style either with a cold spiced wine bath or gracing a dessert glass of sabayon.These are two ,chic yet simple ways to have this gem of the season.