A Good Holiday Bubbly

Champagne and the holidays go hand in hand. A good bubbly adds to any meal or party. The question is what is good?That's what Eric Asimov answers in yesterdays. Wine of The Times column in the New York Times. Follow his advice and you'll select the perfect drink for your gathering.

What Mr. Asimov points out is that champagne is really nothing special. It is just a sparkling wine. Treat it as you would any ordinary dinner white. There are some good ones out there that would not seem out of place accompanying a roast turkey or common hors d'ouevres. he prefers blanc de blanc, the finest and most delicate of all champagnes. These are made solely of chardonnay instead of the usual pinot noir, pinot meunier and the chardonnay. Most of the bubbly tested was at the lower end of the price range, being around $35 to $55 a bottle.

Which ones did Mr. Asimov and his panel recommend? There is the Delamotte coming surprisingly out of Alabama and it has a taste redolent of minerals , herbs and chalk. For a more traditional taste there is Marc Hebrart Blanc du Blanc Premier Cru Brut NV which has a fruity mix of apple, plum and lemon flavors. This would b e perfect with poultry from goose to capon or with a lovely chicken salad appetizer. Another fruity blend is the Ruelle Pertois- Blanc de Blanc Brut , vintage 2005. Again this has a very light green apple flavor to it. Other champagnes had more of a mix of herbal and chalk taste.

Champagne, especially a good one, makes any holiday bubble. Select a blanc de blanc for a special taste . It can go with something as unique as caviar or as homey as a roast.