There was an interesting article in the Times food section yesterday. It was about celebrating the upcoming holiday Rosh Hashana as it was celebrated in `1919. In some ways , the recipes haven't changed in ninety years.There are the still traditional ones that can be eaten today and are even considered comfort food. if anything Jewish holiday cooking has become more mainstream , being adopted by other religions and ethnic groups.
The article, written by Joan Nathan , tell about a recreation village in Strawberry Banke, outside of Portsmouth , New Hampshire. Other ethnic groups are represented such as the English who founded the area There were a small group of Eastern European Jews who also emigrated there, primarily for the farming. Many owned the local chicken farms which played an integral part in local cooking. The primary reenactor is Barbara Ann Paster who portrays ShHiva Shapiro, an actual towns person there. She makes of all the recipes that the Shapiro family have given her. there are homemade bow tie noodles, chicken stuffed with kashi and honey and poppy seed cake.The dishes wouldn't seem out of place in a Rosh Hashana table of 2009.
The recipes are easy to follow even though they are time consuming. there isa great recipe for crispy kale (a staple in Jewish gardens of the era) that is simple to make, Anothe is for chicken stuffed with kasha or buckwheat. it;s almost reminiscent of Julia's Child's chicken except chicken fat is used where Child used butter.The poppy seed cake is involved but not so time consuming to make as any other holiday cake.
There's not much difference between holiday foods of the early Twentieth Century and today.It just requires a love of tradition and adhering to religious laws. otherwise it;s the same meal that has been enjoyed by generation after generation
Thursday, September 17, 2009
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