Indian cuisine is having a moment right now thanks to Holi, the Spring festival along with the Trumps' trip to the subcontinent. Then there's the question of India's true identity with powerful waves of Hindu nationalism . Even though Islam is also a part of the history, it and its' culture are being suppressed almost to the point of eradication. Yet nothing can hurt its' multifaceted cuisine. Indian regional cooking is as strong as ever.
Tejal Rao, a regular contributor wrote about this and offered a variety of recipes in today's New York Times Food section. Ms. Rao herself has Gujarati and Konkani roots, her family coming from India's west coast. She has created a good array of recipes representing all of the country and recipes garnered from home chefs outside her family. What is great about her selection is that they are welcoming to the home chef new to Indian cuisine. They're great for anyone who loves all aspects of the cooking as well as looking for something unique to cook. You may have to find some of the ingredients at Indian groceries but the trip is worth it because it will help broaden culinary knowledge. Ms. Rao does include some family recipes such as keema or spiced ground meat. This is an interesting easy dish made with ground beef, red onions and ground Roma tomatoes (I plan on making this tomorrow so it will be the subject of tomorrow's entry).It has a fiery mix of serrano chilies, cayenne pepper and garam masala. It's served with Indian bread roti but you can also use naan to sop up the gravy
The other dishes Ms. Rao provides are representative of all the different states of India. There is toor dal Gujarati style made with split yellow pigeon peas with Roma tomatoes and peanuts. The tempering or sauce is made from ghee, an Indian staple of clarified butter, fresh curry leaves, and cinnamon, Chilies and mustard seed also give it flavor along with a pinch of asafoetida a resinous gum.Lamb biryani is included and this is a dish most restaurants make.It is part of India's Muslim heritage, a richly spiced dish of lamb, bombarded with spices served with onions over basmati rice. Lamb chops or a shoulder of lamb is used , cut into pieces and marinaded with finger chiles, garlic and ginger.Onions and tomatoes are added to this. Yogurt spiked with mint, cilantro, coriander, cumin and chili powder is then added to the mix and the lamb is marinaded overnight in the fridge. There is also saffron milk, an easy blend of whole milk, saffron threads and cilantro layered onto the meat and rice.The southwestern area of Karnataka gives us carrot salad or gojjara kosambari. It's sweetened with coconut and sugar and fired up with serrano chile along with cumin, white sesame and black mustard seeds.Moong dal or cooked lentils can be added too.Ms. Rao also adds a roti recipe too, perfect of any of these recipes.
India is having a moment right now with Hindu nationalism and warring with its' Muslim heritage as well. These recipes help to unite in a way as well as introduce people to the cuisine. It represents every aspect of the pluralism of Indian life and its' heritage.
Wednesday, March 11, 2020
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