A Different Kind Of Juneteenth

Juneteenth has always been a special day for the African-American community. It is a day full  of celebration and thought, in a way like the Fourth of July.Now with the pandemic and the George Floyd protests, it takes on a deeper, more profound meaning. The good food and cheer is still around but there are new layers there to add to the day's history.

Nicole Taylor, author of The Up South Cookbook: Chasing Dixie In A Brooklyn Kitchen wrote this interesting article in today's New York Times Food section. The holiday started on June 19th 1865 when enslaved workers in Galveston, Texas learned from Union soldiers that they were free. This was two years after Abraham Lincoln signed The Emancipation Proclamation. The day is full of good memories and good food. People shared ruby hued  drinks to symbolize the kola nuts and hibiscus which made their way to  America from Africa. For years kids made red Kool-Aid or served red Hawaiian Punch along with red hued foods such as fiery sausages, watermelon scented shaved ice, stone fruit cobblers and barbecue. Covid-19 has put a huge damper on the festivities along with the uprisings and protests. Yet people are and should lean into the holiday. Juneteenth is about resistance and that's obvious in the growing number of black chefs becoming known and successful.It also allows celebrants some happiness, and as Ms. Taylor states , that's the best resistance.

There are recipes from different African-American chefs and restaurants along with the chef's various stories. Families can make Juneteenth Red Punch, a recipe from Chef Edouardo Jordan, a James beard award winning cook . It's a mix if a homemade strawberry syrup added to a mix of Cognac,pineapple, pomegranate and lime juices. Ginger beer is added for fizz along with sparkling wine, Fresh cut fruit or crystallized ginger decorates the glasses.  Then there is  sweet potato pikliz from Chef Greg Collier of Leah & Louise. This is pickled sweet potato mixed with red onions, hakurei turnips and radishes. The pickling juice is a combination of garlic, Serrano chilies, cider and lime juice. There's honey added for sweetness and kosher salt for the pickling process. It's then chilled for a day before serving. The main course is the ribs and the recipe again comes from Chef Collier. These are Memphis style kind with sweet and fiery rub made from dark brown sugar and hot paprika. There is also onion and garlic powders mixed in along with ground black pepper, cumin seed and dried mustard. The meat should be bone in country pork rib rack. Chef Collier adds crushed peanuts as a garnish. You can also sub in black oyster mushrooms for a vegan spin.

This year Juneteenth takes on a deeper meaning. Yet it's also a time to celebrate and enjoy good food with family and friends. That's the best kind of protest - to thoroughly enjoy life.