The Many Sides of Juneteenth

 Junettenth is an important African-American holiday, much in the same way as Fourth Of July. It celebrates freedom but also the different recipes and customs of Black-Americans and their ancestors. There are so many different  recipes , each tasty , each traditional.

Nicole Taylor , chef and author of the definitive Juneteenth cookbook  Watermelon And Red Birds :A Cookbook For Juneteenth and Other Black Celebrations (Simon and Schuster 2022) just out now, wrote this in the cookbook.Today's issue of the New York Times Food section excerpted it along with  some of her recipes.Some background is needed here. Juneteenth celebrates and acknowledges  when Major General Gordon arrived in  the port city of Galveston Texas and issued General Order 3. This meant,that, two years after Abe Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation that all enslaved people were free,. This happened on June 19th, hence the name Juneteenth  although some plantation owners waited to tell the enslaved in the fall after harvest season.  A year later festivities commenced. Like the Great  Black Migration, it moved from the South to the north , east and west. with it not only came recipes for barbecue but a place at the table for watermelon. June  in Texas was prime season for the fruit.in 1883 The Galveston Daily News has reported that there were celebrations across the state but one in San Antonio had "twenty-three wagons loaded with watermelons. They're now an integral part of the celebrations.

Chef Taylor's recipes are amazing with different spins on traditional dishes. yet they represent her deep roots in Georgia where her family has lived for generations. Her recipe for peach and molasses chicken is a spin on the traditional barbecue soaked one of years past. The sauce is a tangy mix of peach jam and apple cider vinegar mixed with tomato paste, soy sauce ,mustard and coriander seeds. The chicken is basted twice in it and served with more coriander. She takes the traditional cole slaw and zings it up with poblanos  and scallions and dresses it in a coating of virgin olive oil, apple cider vinegar and garlic cloves. Celery seeds are also added and a dash of hot sauce can also be thrown in. What to finish it off with? A strawberry sumac (!) cake. The berries are macerated with a mix of ground sumac, granulated sugar and almond extract. They're dotted on the homemade cake that's also spiced with the ground sumac. The perfect drink for this is Chef Taylor's watermelon ginger beer. This is a fiery mix of  red watermelon and ginger beer with the pureed fruit. Ice cubes , full of fennel fronds are put in to cool it.

Juneteenth is a day of thought but also f celebration and honoring all those who were enslaved. They should be celebrated with good food and good drink. It's their recipes and their legacies that should be honored.

The Pantry Is Open Again!!!!!!

 Yes, it's wide open and its' been a frustrating month thanks to a fractured (And Now fixed humerus) I'm still not 100 per cent healed that will take physical  therapy.By the time that happens I'll be needing cooking therapy.

It's funny when you're injured how friends and family come with food. Friends cooked my favorite recipes, ordered from goo restaurants and ordered food baskets. All this helped tremendously especially in those early days when i couldn't even was let alone cook. I miss cooking and food shopping. There's something soothing about cooking a curry rich choley or a flavorful spinach and mushroom sauce for pasta. I was even going to plant a garden which brings me to an interesting article in today's New York Times Food section today. It's an article about old fashioned watermelon breeds, written by regular contributor Nicole Taylor. Ms Taylor interviewed  film maker and fourth generation farmer, Gabrielle E. W. Carter. Ms. Carter grows heirloom watermelon in her family's farm in Apex ,  The delicious fruit was indigenous of Africa and is kind of related to cucumbers, pumpkins and loofah Yes, that loofah that gives us those scrub sponges. Ms. Carter is reviving an original breed. with ebony seeds and sweet candy pink flash.

Why is it important that original strains like  Sugar Baby thrive? One  , because it connects the past to the present. This was emphasized in the Netflix "High On The Hog" series on African cooking. Both Ms. Carter and her uncle Andrew were featured in it. The heirloom varieties were a connection to ancestral lands. The second reason is that the melons are more flavorful than the hybrids we have now. What our stores have is just a pale imitation. Ms. Carter also includes her country panzanella with watermelon dressing. This is  a sweet and savory salad perfect for the upcoming Juneteenth  celebrating the end of slavery in Texas/ It also is good at every summer barbecue or elegant backyard supper. Ms. Clark takes cut watermelon and mixes it with red onion, cucumbers and feta cheese.Toasted and oiled cubed ciabatta bread is the base , absorbing the blend of juices and herbs. The dressing has the watermelon along with garlic and red pepper flakes to give it zing.

The pantry is wide open again There will still be recipes like the watermelon panzanella and soon cooking too. The how tos will be back as well. 

Special thanks to Lou who ordered us food and took me food shopping at WalMart < Lili and Polly for cooking my favorite stuffed tomatoes and rice, and Debbie who sent one of the yummiest food baskets.  You are my salt and pepper , olive oil and vinegar.

Also thanks to Dr V, for giving me the OK to write again, This is the nutrition I need to survive.

A Different Kind Of Juneteenth

Juneteenth has always been a special day for the African-American community. It is a day full  of celebration and thought, in a way like the Fourth of July.Now with the pandemic and the George Floyd protests, it takes on a deeper, more profound meaning. The good food and cheer is still around but there are new layers there to add to the day's history.

Nicole Taylor, author of The Up South Cookbook: Chasing Dixie In A Brooklyn Kitchen wrote this interesting article in today's New York Times Food section. The holiday started on June 19th 1865 when enslaved workers in Galveston, Texas learned from Union soldiers that they were free. This was two years after Abraham Lincoln signed The Emancipation Proclamation. The day is full of good memories and good food. People shared ruby hued  drinks to symbolize the kola nuts and hibiscus which made their way to  America from Africa. For years kids made red Kool-Aid or served red Hawaiian Punch along with red hued foods such as fiery sausages, watermelon scented shaved ice, stone fruit cobblers and barbecue. Covid-19 has put a huge damper on the festivities along with the uprisings and protests. Yet people are and should lean into the holiday. Juneteenth is about resistance and that's obvious in the growing number of black chefs becoming known and successful.It also allows celebrants some happiness, and as Ms. Taylor states , that's the best resistance.

There are recipes from different African-American chefs and restaurants along with the chef's various stories. Families can make Juneteenth Red Punch, a recipe from Chef Edouardo Jordan, a James beard award winning cook . It's a mix if a homemade strawberry syrup added to a mix of Cognac,pineapple, pomegranate and lime juices. Ginger beer is added for fizz along with sparkling wine, Fresh cut fruit or crystallized ginger decorates the glasses.  Then there is  sweet potato pikliz from Chef Greg Collier of Leah & Louise. This is pickled sweet potato mixed with red onions, hakurei turnips and radishes. The pickling juice is a combination of garlic, Serrano chilies, cider and lime juice. There's honey added for sweetness and kosher salt for the pickling process. It's then chilled for a day before serving. The main course is the ribs and the recipe again comes from Chef Collier. These are Memphis style kind with sweet and fiery rub made from dark brown sugar and hot paprika. There is also onion and garlic powders mixed in along with ground black pepper, cumin seed and dried mustard. The meat should be bone in country pork rib rack. Chef Collier adds crushed peanuts as a garnish. You can also sub in black oyster mushrooms for a vegan spin.

This year Juneteenth takes on a deeper meaning. Yet it's also a time to celebrate and enjoy good food with family and friends. That's the best kind of protest - to thoroughly enjoy life.

Juneteenth Menu

Junettenth is an important holiday in the African-American community. It's also a showcase for recipes that have been in families for generations along with highlighting the flavors of the community. It's a time of remembrance and celebration.

Nicole Taylor wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times Food section Juneteenth is June 19th, commemorating the end of slavery, albeit two years after Abe Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation.Texans erupted in joy  which led to the festivities. The state still holds the country's largest Juneteenth celebrations with parades featuring horses and souped up cars. Tender, fatty brisket can also be had along with barbecue. There are other celebrations throughout the south and in major cities such as new York, LA and Chicago. The food must be red or have a red tint. The color symbolizes ingenuity and resilience in bondage. Strawberry pop is the drink of choice at most of the gatherings. Kola nut tea and bissap - hibiscus tea  are also served - first coming over with the enslaved from Africa. Some of the celebrations are more spiritual, giving thanks to the ancestors with more traditional foods such as black eyed peas and collard greens.

Of course red food rules. spicy hot links, beef sausage dyed with red food coloring, are on many grills during Juneteenth. Texas Pete Hot Sauce is also served, its' orange-y red color livening up everything from fish to rice. The menu varies from state to state. Char grilled oysters are served in Mississippi while the Carolinas serve up vinegar tinged pulled pork.There is also always bowls of  potato salad made form family recipes. The dessert is usually Red Velvet cake or pie . Ms. Taylor, who has written the cookbook, The Up South Cookbook : Chasing Dixie in a Brooklyn Kitchen. includes a recipe for strawberry slab pie which is the perfect end for any summer meal.  The filling is fresh strawberries mixed with brown sugar and zinged up with grapefruit juice and zest. Grated fresh ginger is also added to get away from the usually cloying fruit jam flavor. The crust, too, is unusual with a teaspoon of cracked pepper added for more fire. Buttermilk and butter temper it. There are pastry circles on top, also brushed with buttermilk for decoration.

Juneteenth is a celebration rich in tradition and food. It will represent freedom and ingenuity with tasty and tempting foods. Enjoy it this day, full of meaning and flavor.

African American Cooking Reimagined

African American cooking is not just soul food. It's much more, taken from the two hundred year old disapora that ripped Africans from their countries and roots.Native foods came with them, forever altering American tastes and dishes. Now there is a movement to bring those flavors to  current dining trends.

Regular contributor to the Wednesday Times Food section, Jeff Gordonier wrote an extensive piece on this. There is a new generation of African American chefs that are fusing history and imagination to create dishes that go beyond the typical soul food marriages of cornbread and barbecue or collard greens with ribs.There might be collard greens but they're reimagined  cooked Japanese style with a coating of sesame dressing. This is what Nicole A Taylor did to them in her new cookbook " The Up South Cookbook. There is also more embracing of original vegetables such as eggplant and peanuts, along with spicing, reminiscent of West African spice markets..African cooking is not taught or just ignored in the Euro centric cooking schools.Many chefs have to take their own trips to countries such as Ghana or Nigeria to acquire recipes or base theirs on older ones.

What about soul food? It's there and many chefs will cook it. It's origins are from the farm, with the mantra  "If it grows, together then it goes together."However it does get a fine tuning. Creole Shrimp and grits get a California zing with sweated vegetables at Brown Sugar Kitchen in Oakland,CA.Chef Tanya Holland keeps the richness but adds some baby spinach and cumin for a healthy kick. Some newer soul food restaurants will smoke pork belly on site as well as having shrimp that comes from Baja California as opposed to the Gulf of Mexico. Many chefs make regular visits to their local farmer's markets for the same freshness that 19th and earlier 20th Century  home chefs incorporated in their dishes. For years these dishes were either dismissed or lost  because they were deemed unimportant yet real soul food is healthy and flavorful,It's also a link to the West African countries that served as their basis.

African American cooking and West African foods have contributed so much to American culinary scene, It is finally being celebrated in many delicious ways. It's about time