Celebrating Baltimore

 Baltimore has always been a city full of food and recipes.It's one of our oldest cties and one that comes with a tradition of seafood and ale.It's also known for other amazing foods and chefs.

Seafood , especially crabs have long been a staple .It became part of the diet of the Susquanhannock tribes that first inhabited the area. Blue crab became popular from its' earliest days,Tourists flock to the city today have them fried and served with apple cider vinegar. Crab cakes are another Baltimore classic.Most restaurants and seafood shacks serve them. They're easy to make at home. You'll need good quality lump crab meat mixed with mayo and chopped celery.It's  then combined with eggs , Old Bay seasoning Worcester sauce and parsley.,Patties areformed and then fried in vegetable oil until golden. Old Bay itself is a Baltimore tradition. Yes, you can use it in crab cakes but it';s also goodf sprinkled on lobster or shrimp. You can even  use it as a dry rub for chicken.Sauerkraut is another strangely Maryland must try.Thanks to the German immigrants coming to the city, this German must have is popular with several dishes. have it with the city's  favorite beer, National Bohmian or  Natty Boh as it's locally called available exclusively in Maryland.

Thrasher's fries are another treat Baltimoreans love. These originally came from Georgia and became a staple of first Ocean Cty , the seaside town and then Baltimore. Pit beef is another must eat when visiting this historic city. (it's where Francis Scott Key wrote our national anthem during the British attack of 1814). This is a kaiser roll loaded with thinly sliced char broiled roast beef.Most eat it with a slice of raw onion or tiger sauce - a mix of mayonnaise and horseradish. Oysters are another fun snack food or main course too.Many a restaurant will serve either pit beef or oysters to satisfy all tastes. What about signature desserts? Snowballs are consumed on a hot day. This is not like Hawaiian shaved ice but finely packed shaved ice packed into a cup and then doused with syrups. There is the sky blue made with eggs, vanilla and sugar along with a Tiger's blood , a combo of watermelon, coconut and strawberry. A marshmallow creme is poured over the ice for a creamy sweet flavor. The ice comes in a wide variety of flavors such a smint or grape.

Baltimore is a food lover's dream. It has classic crab cakes to Snowballs.It's worth a trip to see this famous port. It's historic , but also delicious.

Thoughts go out to the families affected by the Francis Scott Key Bridge collapse. Stay strong.

A Melange Of Mushrooms

Mushrooms are one of those fall foods that can be good on their own or with other ingredients They're easy to work with , a plus for novice home chefs.as well as being a great sub for meats.

Many home chefs grew up with the the white button kind. These are the most versatile, showing up in everything from salads to sides. They can easily be stuffed with a mix of their stems and bread crumbs.For those who aren't fond of the button's flavor , try the oyster. It's flavor is very mild , almost flavoring the abalone fish. Shiitake caps are popular right now, Their flavor is woodsy  and they're a good source of copper.Many home chefs have embraced portobellos and have used them as sub in for steaks and burgers. They are one of the most popular  and probably the most versatile. They can be turned into everything from kabobs to meatloaf. For plate appeal try enoki mushrooms These are graceful white stems with tiny pearl button like heads. Like the oyster kind, they have a very mild flavor. They're crunchy to eat and commonly found in such Japanese dishes as sukiyaki and nabemono,or Japanese hot pot.The gem of all is the control. They are sometimes called egg  mushrooms because of their deep golden color.

All these mushrooms can actually work together. Melissa Clark has come up with a tasty recipe as seen in her A Good Appetite column in the New York Times Food section. She combines winter squash with a variety of  different ones. This create not only a blend of flavors but a blend of textures too. She uses the common button with the posh and plush chanterelle, oysters with shiitakes. This creates an interesting mix  made more interesting with curry leaves and mustard seeds, Winter squash , namely the butternut balances it out, creating a nice mild foil for all the heat that comes from the addition of  four chilies and cayenne pepper. According to Ms. Clark home chefs can adjust the heat, making it as spicy or mild as they want it. Serve it with fragrant basmati rice or oven warmed naan bread.

Mushrooms are a wonderful addition to any fall menu. Serve just one kind or blend in stew or curry.  They are versatile and easy to work with in any recipe.

Seafood And "R" Months

There's been a long standing rule that you should only  eat seafood with months that have an "r" in them. That means lobster or shrimp  until May? Is that true? Or can we eat it all year round.

Long ago the "r" rule only applied to oysters which made sense,It then became more inclusive and also meant shrimp, lobsters and clams, Refrigeration a century ago was spotty at best. There was no way shellfish could be kept cool during the sweltering summer months. That only happened in cooler ones  when ice was readily available.Another reason was that the bivalves spawn in the summer so there are only young ones to catch and that there needs to be a rest for the fish to repopulate . The flavor is also different too, which can ruin an elaborate dish such as Oysters Rockefeller.One of the most compelling arguments for only eating shelled seafood in the fall and winter is the red tide. Luckily the levels on this algal bloom are now  closely monitored. It affects not only the nervous systems of marine life but also mammal  - humans included. Monitored harvesting and regular toxin testing have all but eliminated this deadly threat.

This means if you've been off seafood during the Spring and summer months, then embrace it now. It's time to try Oysters Rockefeller  - an easy two part  cook. First boil the shell fish, and let cool. Then it's just simply a mix of breadcrumbs, spinach and bacon. Tabasco sauce and Pernod, absinthe, give it flavor and a certain decadence. If you don't have absinthe, use Anisette. It's then spooning the mixture into the oysters and broiling for ten minutes in the oven. Of course, if you want something delicious and simple, try steamed mussels. What they're steamed in is up to you. Some people add beer , some add white wine and butter. They should be de-bearded  which is getting rid of the thin, sticky membranes that adhere them onto surfaces.Just grasp these strings with your thumb and forefinger , pulling firmly until it comes loose. Just discard afterwards. A little less labor intensive are clams. Fall is the perfect time for a meaty New England or Manhattan clam chowder.They're also delicious in red or white clam sauce over linguine.If you want their full, briny flavor, try them raw with either a squeeze of lemon or hot sauce. Clams can be had crudo style , cut up and marinated with citrus juices  such as lemon and lime as a kind of civic.

Start the fall with tasty shellfish and warming chowders. Enjoy clams and oysters, along with mussels in a variety of dishes. It's the season for them.

Juneteenth Menu

Junettenth is an important holiday in the African-American community. It's also a showcase for recipes that have been in families for generations along with highlighting the flavors of the community. It's a time of remembrance and celebration.

Nicole Taylor wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times Food section Juneteenth is June 19th, commemorating the end of slavery, albeit two years after Abe Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation.Texans erupted in joy  which led to the festivities. The state still holds the country's largest Juneteenth celebrations with parades featuring horses and souped up cars. Tender, fatty brisket can also be had along with barbecue. There are other celebrations throughout the south and in major cities such as new York, LA and Chicago. The food must be red or have a red tint. The color symbolizes ingenuity and resilience in bondage. Strawberry pop is the drink of choice at most of the gatherings. Kola nut tea and bissap - hibiscus tea  are also served - first coming over with the enslaved from Africa. Some of the celebrations are more spiritual, giving thanks to the ancestors with more traditional foods such as black eyed peas and collard greens.

Of course red food rules. spicy hot links, beef sausage dyed with red food coloring, are on many grills during Juneteenth. Texas Pete Hot Sauce is also served, its' orange-y red color livening up everything from fish to rice. The menu varies from state to state. Char grilled oysters are served in Mississippi while the Carolinas serve up vinegar tinged pulled pork.There is also always bowls of  potato salad made form family recipes. The dessert is usually Red Velvet cake or pie . Ms. Taylor, who has written the cookbook, The Up South Cookbook : Chasing Dixie in a Brooklyn Kitchen. includes a recipe for strawberry slab pie which is the perfect end for any summer meal.  The filling is fresh strawberries mixed with brown sugar and zinged up with grapefruit juice and zest. Grated fresh ginger is also added to get away from the usually cloying fruit jam flavor. The crust, too, is unusual with a teaspoon of cracked pepper added for more fire. Buttermilk and butter temper it. There are pastry circles on top, also brushed with buttermilk for decoration.

Juneteenth is a celebration rich in tradition and food. It will represent freedom and ingenuity with tasty and tempting foods. Enjoy it this day, full of meaning and flavor.

Tuna For Thanksgiving///

Nothing beats a  full on holiday dinner? There's s yams, salad, rolls and tuna????? Yup. Some people want no part of a dried , stringy fowl or the leftovers attached to it. What some foodies want may not be traditional  but it  can be deemed  a holiday meal, just not in the US,

 The idea was the subject of an article in Wednesday's  revamped New York Times food section.Jeff Gordonier , a regular contributor to the section wrote about this foodie fantasty. He interviewed a number of chefs, gleaning what their holiday would be like if they had had their way.Zac Pellaccio at Food & Game wants plump gleaming oysters and wild mushrooms grilled over the heats. He does desire turkeys but have them cooked rotisserie style  along with stuffing made in a cast iron pot. Sandra Beasley, a poet and author would prefer roast salmon, then have it incorporated into a salad later and much later as a sandwich.Amanda Freitag, the chef at the Empire Diner goes to an entirely different cuisine for her dream Thanksgiving Day dinner. She imagines a Korean style lay out with fried fish splattered with spicy sauce. Instead of cranberries, there would be kimchi and a few other .
 pickled sides.

For those with celiac disease such as Gaven Kayson, the former chef at Café Boulud and now current owner of Spoon and Stable in Minneapolis, the pies and stuffings are a no go. He'd rather have socca xhips with anchovy, along with shrimp, oysters and grilled lamb. Even non chefs like the nurse practioner,Shelley Simons of Atlanta would rather have king crab claws and asparagus,However there are some of us, myself included that like the traditional dinner. However if there are some of you out there who would like a leg of lamb or roast duck instead of the roasted tom, wait until New Year's Day. The relatives will be too sloshed or still in bed when you experiment and sub in something wildly innovative for the usual ham and Hoppin John.

Thanksgiving is always a polarizing holiday.some want turkey and tradition, others want tuna and wild rice.Keep in mind that the holiday is really four days long. If you can't get what you want on the actual day, there's always Black Friday to try out that baked salmon.

Maryland Cuisine ,From Surf To Turf

Maryland is a state that offers all sorts of vatieties.There is the sleek cosmopolitan feel of Baltimore, the romantic, historic feel of the Chesapeake Bay area, the laid back, summer fun of Ocean City.The cuisine of the Old Line State is just as diverse.There are so many dishes from the land and sea,making for a rich ,exciting buffet of tasty dishes. It's no great wonder that Chesapeake mean bay of shellfish in Algonquin. The Chesapeake has always been known for it's delectable crab dishes.Blue crab abound in the many inlets.Of course the most famous dish involving the shredded crab along with the famed Old Bay seasoning, a mix of celery salt ,black and red peppers,cardamon, mustard and clove.It's actually an easy recipe ,with the addition of eggs and breadcrumbs..Blue crabs can be also served breaded and fried while still in their shells. The state is also known for soup and salad featuring the marine animal..However crabs aren't the only stars of Maryland cuisine.Oysters figure prominently as well.Many seafood restaurants pride themselves on their deep fried oyster fritters along with a savory oyster pie made with them as well as a variety of vegetables..Meats play an important part of the state culinary history.There is Maryland style pit beef which is a brisket cooked in a below ground pit or hole.Vinegar is added as the only flavoring .It's sliced thin and served on a roll with horseradish ,sliced raw onion and mayo.Since Maryland is really a Southern state there are also ham and biscuits.The ham is corned and stuffed with kale,cabbage and onions while the biscuits are made with a dough that's been mallet beaten for twenty to thirty minutes. The state is also known for some famous desserts.Many think of Lord and Lady Baltimore cakes,because of their names. Lady Baltimore actually originated in turn of the Twentieth, Century Baltimore and evolved from the lady cakes of the day.What is more reflective is the Smith Island Cake.This was brought from England when the state was a colony.It is a ten layer vanilla cake with chocolate icing.The size and richness suited the hearty appetites of the fishermen from the area.Peaches are in another popular state recipe,a peach pot pie,full of the ripe fruit,brown sugar and Madeira wine.A less decadent is the Dover cake a simple pound cake,flavored with nutmeg and rose brandy.Huckleberry pudding is also a nice end, which is a flour based pudding loaded with the sweet berries.Most of the desserts represent Maryland's rich English and Colonial heritage and many of the desserts could be straight out of a Jane Austen novel. Maryland is a state full of diversity.There's the sophisticated city of Baltimore for elegant dining and desserts and the bay and ocean front towns, with tasty seafood and hearty cakes.Each dish shows the many facets of this state ,ripe with history and nature.

The Return Of The Chesapeake Oyster

The Chesapeake oyster is making a comeback and in a big way.This gem of the famed bay is now wanted by some of New York's top restaurants.Thanks to a dedicated family the bivalves are now being enjoyed by a new generation of oyster lovers. Julia Moskin had the opportunity to interview the family, namely the two cousins who revived their family's century old oystering business.The Croxton family was one of the main stories in Wednesday's New York Times Dining section.The youngest generation, Travis and Ryan, inherited the Rappahannock Oyster Company and the leases on the Rappahannock River.If they didn't continue in the trade ,the government would take up the leases, and their great grandfather's legacy.Since they do have masters degrees in marketing ,the brothers went to New York's famed Le Berardin restaurant to sell their seafood and were an instant hit.The oysters, also known as the virginica were so rare that the chefs wanted them right then and there.They became can instant hit, Now they also have the Grand Central Oyster Bar as another client.The oysters themselves are perfect, plump and fleshy ,what they were back during the oyster's hey day in the 1870's. Why was there such aversion to the virginica oyster? It thanks to the horrific pollution of the Chesapeake Bay.When the Croxton family first bought the leases, the bay was rich with plankton and phyto nutrients that are the food that oysters need to survive.The waters were clean ,full of lush thriving marsh grass .Unfortunately as the Twentieth Century progressed, fertilizers and insecticides were dumped into it and contaminated the oyster meat. It created a problem with most marine life dying out.This meant no more oysters at any of the top East Coast restaurants.Luckily the Chesapeake Bay Foundation was started in 1967 to protect and restore the bay. There was even talk of introducing a Chinese breed, a disease resistant kind that grows to maturity in just a year.However that was vetoed, because a foreign variety could also bring a host of problems too as it happemded in the South, there with kudzu and the walking catfish. Oyster affectionados have the Croxton cousins to thank for bringing back the industry.Oysters are coming back with their ripe, briny flavor and texture.They are no longer a rarity but a treat.

Elegant Ketchup??!!

Mention ketchup or catsup and you'll either get a big smile or a big wince depending on the person's age. This sweet tomato sauce is either considered a blessing or a bane. Usually most sophisticated foodies shun ketchup because it lacks sophistication. However that's all changing thanks to chef Jose Andre at Washington D.C.'s America Eats Cafe. It's not just tomato sauce on fries anymore

This was the subject of an article written by Julia Moskin in today's New York Times Dining section. It turns out that there's more to ketchup than just tomatoes and corn syrup. Actually the stuff has been around since the 1690's when it was frist mentioned in English recipe books as early as the 1690's.English sailors probably brought it over from either China where a similar sauce from eggplant juice called ke-tsiap was made or Malaysia where they had a fish sauce called macap.It became the tomato variety when Heinz made in in 1876. It was a way of utilizing tomato scraps leftover from canning. Mixed with corn syrup it became an instant American classic. There were earlier forms of it made from nutmeg and peppercorns

Now ketchup is taking a different turn. Thanks to Jose Andres, the chef at the new American Eats Cafe in Washington D.C. (it's part of the famed American food exhibit"What's Cooking Uncle Sam?") the condiment is taking a new spin. There is a cherry one that had dark cherries along with mustard and spices mixed together to form a sweet sauce. This is perfect for any red meat.Another one is made from oysters which is minced oysters blended with white wine and oysters. Anchovies also make an appearance however it's a take on Worcester sauce which is a variation of it. Then there's the actual tomato version made with fresh tomatoes and a minimum of corn syrup. This is a different kind than what we're used to.It focuses more on the tomatoes than anything else . The result? An earthy flavor that's robust and perfect for hamburgers and grilled steaks

Ketchup is not just mix of tomatoes and corn syrup.It's a complex blend of ingredients to create a complement to meats and side dishes. It can be made of anything from walnuts to anchovies or even tomatoes.

The Return Of The Oyster

Today's Dining section in the New York Time s had an interesting article about oysters making a comeback in Manhattan's East River. This is a subject close to my heart because I'm an environmentalist and I've bene wanting cleaner waters and cleaner environments for our local sealife now. Oysters are natures' way of filtering out pollutants. They also reflect Manhattan's culinary history.The local indigenous people made them a staple of their diet as did the Europeans who came after them. Now they;re hitting tables once more.

The article , written by David Kamp tells of their return of these bivalves. Most of then look like their ancestors that graced New York's waters, ridged, craggy and tightly shut. However the harbor still has PCBs in it and that makes eating any seafood form the area taboo. The students though are hoping for a day when future generations will be able to eat produce from New York's Rivers. Oysters have been planted in hopes of building reefs similar to what was gracing Manhattan four hundred years ago.

I know a similar program that wa s just instituted in New jersey's Raritan Bay . That area too was rich in oysters and a popular fishing spot between the Lenni Lenape and the English who settled htere. there were even oysters factories in South Amboy, one of the towns that graces the start of the bay area. Hopefully one dayin the green future we'll be able to eat some of the Raritan Bay oysters too.

The bivalve industry was a big and thriving one in this area until over harvesting and depletion kicked in. Now with the work of eco farmers and environmentalists we can bring it back. it may take a while but people will get the benefit of local oysters .