A Spin On Cassoulet

One of the most comforting of all foods is the French winter classic cassoulet. I'ts a hearty but sometimes labor intensive stew that is a melange of meats and beans. It can be tiring to create however there's a new spin to make the dish easier.

David Clark realizes this and gave it his twist in yesterday's New York Times Food section. His column, A City Kitchen has this new recipe along with a first course and a neat dessert. It is the duck that stands out , though. He slow roasts duck , serving it with mashed white beans sizzled herbs and olives. It's more of an Italianate spin than French. There is rosemary which the original recipe does not have along with green and black olives. As for the duck, Mr. Tanis suggests using only the legs and recommends the Moulard breed, a plumper hybrid of the every day duck. The legs are topped with peppery arugula leaves dressed with lemon and salt. To change it up a bit sub in broccoli rabe. Instead of putting everything into a cassoulet pot or Dutch oven, use a sheet pan for the legs to achieve a nice, crispy skin and tender moist flesh, similar to confit. The beans are still cooked with onions as in the original recipe along with cloves and garlic. They're then mashed with some of the bean liquid and resemble mashed potatoes. (A potato masher is used for this). You could even serve these with roasted chicken too.

As for the first course, Mr. Tanis decides on seafood, namely clams.They're simply steamed and then served with a garlic parsley butter and lime for zing. The butter is actually used for escargots  - snails - but work perfectly with  the clams. It's a mix of unsalted butter, freshly chopped parsley and garlic. The blend is then melted and cooked with lime zest and lime juice. The clams themselves, little necks, are cooked with leeks and white wine.Another alternative is raw oysters on a half shell. As for the dessert, Mr. Tanis goes somewhat light with ricotta paired with a  rhubarb , ginger and cardamon sauce.It's a spin on the Mediterranean treat of the cheese drizzled with fresh honey. Ginger and cardamon  pods are cooked with sugar and water to form a spiced syrup. About a pound of rhubarb is used for this. If you're wondering where to get it so early in the season, check Wal-Mart or Whole Foods. The mix is served on a wedge of ricotta and decorated with pine nuts or pistachios. As for what wine to serve with the whole dinner, try any of the reds such as Tuscany's Chianti Classico or Brunello de Montalcino.

If you're craving cassoulet but don't want the hard work, consider this recipe with or without the first course and dessert. It's an easier way of enjoying duck and beans . This is a simple cook with a deliciously complex flavor.

A Briny Summer Treat Of Clams

No matter where it is in summer, there's nothing so welcome as seafood. Clams are a special pleasure , picking up spicing along with maintaining its' taste of the sea.One way that highlights this is steaming them. It's also easy cooking especially during these humid days.

Allison Roman highlighted these gems of the sea in yesterday's New York Times Food section. According to her clams are the best bivalves.Eaten raw, they are brinier, milder and cleaner than the oyster (both are natural water filters and there can be a residual taste of whatever they've filtered) Steamed, they're better than mussels because juicier, meaty and less fishier in flavor. Clams are wonderful cooked in a pool of toasted garlic oil, mixed with an acidic white wine. Larger clams can be picked from their shells and coarsely chopped. They could be then returned to the broth  with the addition of celery and chorizo. Ms. Roman spoons all of this on toasted crusty bread. she reminds home chefs to think small. Littleneck clams, the ones she recommends using , can come in all different sizes. They should be between the size of a grape and an apricot. However Manila clams, are also good. They are the smallest and would work well in the recipe. Another choice is cockles. These are a small clamlike bivalve that can be easily subbed into any clam recipe.

The recipe can be labor intensive for those not used to prepping seafood. Use a natural bristle kitchen brush or a brand new kitchen sponge to scrub the clams under running water. After they've been scrubbed and scrubbed again,let them sit in a bowl of cold water. This will allow any residual grit or sand to free itself from the shells.It'll just settle on the bottom of the bowl and can easily be tossed in the yard (the sand may clog up the drain). It's then heating up the oil, butter, and chorizo. If the last is too spicy  , consider plain sausage or better yet, bacon. as the butter melts and the pork renders its' fat, then add garlic and cook until it's turns a light toasty golden brown hue.Its then adding wine which should be very dry. Ms. Roman advises against using anything that's not overly oaky, sweet or creamy. Add two large stalks of  celery cut into thin strips, on the bias and cook until its' a bright green. Now it's time to toss in the clams and shake the pot so that they settle nicely. let them steam open and release their juices. Any unopened clam is considered dead and should be thrown away. serve the clams in a bowl over parsley chives and celery leaves. Serve with lemon and lime zest and pair with a , hot crusty slice of bread that's been rubbed with olive oil.

Clams are the perfect summer's night treat. Steam them with white wine, garlic, and butter. Enjoy their brininess and sweetness with crusty bread. It's a welcome flavor during these warm, balmy days.

Souvenir Recipes

One of the best things about vacations is the slew of souvenirs we take home. They can be tee shirts or shells, maybe even jewelry or salt and pepper shakers. Yet the best ones are the food memories, souvenirs perfect for our kitchens. No matter where we go, there's a recipe we're bound to recreate.

Foreign vacations mean foreign foods. It's easy nowadays to recreate dishes from across the globe. Recipes can be easily gotten and translated, thanks to the Web.If you were lucky enough to lounge on Mediterranean beaches, you probably got to lunch on pissaladiere slices or a bowl of pasta vongole .Pissaladiere is relatively easy to make.It's a short crust base topped with a yummy mixture of anchovies , olives and onions spiced with thyme sprigs. Pasta vongole is simply linguini with clams. Again homemade is an easy make. Use fresh clams (none of the canned stuff) and boil them. reserve the juice or broth.It's then cooking chopped clams in them with a little white wine, red pepper flakes and garlic. If you spent July sunning on Mikonis or Karpathos and Kos, then you may be hankering for stuffed grape leaves or dolmades. Fill grape leaves (which can be easily bought at Trader Joe's) with a tasty marriage of arborio rice and pine nuts along with raisins, chopped onions, and mint. You can  add meat, usually ground lamb.

You can still bring back recipes even if you stuck close to home. South Jersey has a variety of fun dishes and boardwalk snacks. Taylor ham, a Boardwalk specialty can be recreated in a variety of dishes.It is good on a soft roll, Atlantic City style, especially when the bread sops up all that melted butter, yet you can also have it as a side with scrambled or sunny side up eggs. Seafood is big  along both of New Jersey and New York coasts. Go to your local fish monger for fresh seafood. You can make an easy dipping sauce using just ketchup and horseradish that's perfect for everything from clams to shrimp. Boardwalk fare can be easily copied. Frozen custard is a treat and can be created on any stove top. It's an egg rich custard that's then poured into an ice cream maker. A fun, spin, popular at many shore ice cream parlors is frozen custard served in a hot waffle boat. The last requires a special machine but you can make fresh  ones with a regular waffle maker.Homemade fudge is a Jersey classic and must have.It's super simple to make, both over a stove top and microwave.Use semisweet chocolate and condensed milk for a Boardwalk must have.

A summer traveled is a summer full of souvenirs. Recreate your tastiest ones in your kitchen. It' s a way of still having the best time all year round.

Seafood And "R" Months

There's been a long standing rule that you should only  eat seafood with months that have an "r" in them. That means lobster or shrimp  until May? Is that true? Or can we eat it all year round.

Long ago the "r" rule only applied to oysters which made sense,It then became more inclusive and also meant shrimp, lobsters and clams, Refrigeration a century ago was spotty at best. There was no way shellfish could be kept cool during the sweltering summer months. That only happened in cooler ones  when ice was readily available.Another reason was that the bivalves spawn in the summer so there are only young ones to catch and that there needs to be a rest for the fish to repopulate . The flavor is also different too, which can ruin an elaborate dish such as Oysters Rockefeller.One of the most compelling arguments for only eating shelled seafood in the fall and winter is the red tide. Luckily the levels on this algal bloom are now  closely monitored. It affects not only the nervous systems of marine life but also mammal  - humans included. Monitored harvesting and regular toxin testing have all but eliminated this deadly threat.

This means if you've been off seafood during the Spring and summer months, then embrace it now. It's time to try Oysters Rockefeller  - an easy two part  cook. First boil the shell fish, and let cool. Then it's just simply a mix of breadcrumbs, spinach and bacon. Tabasco sauce and Pernod, absinthe, give it flavor and a certain decadence. If you don't have absinthe, use Anisette. It's then spooning the mixture into the oysters and broiling for ten minutes in the oven. Of course, if you want something delicious and simple, try steamed mussels. What they're steamed in is up to you. Some people add beer , some add white wine and butter. They should be de-bearded  which is getting rid of the thin, sticky membranes that adhere them onto surfaces.Just grasp these strings with your thumb and forefinger , pulling firmly until it comes loose. Just discard afterwards. A little less labor intensive are clams. Fall is the perfect time for a meaty New England or Manhattan clam chowder.They're also delicious in red or white clam sauce over linguine.If you want their full, briny flavor, try them raw with either a squeeze of lemon or hot sauce. Clams can be had crudo style , cut up and marinated with citrus juices  such as lemon and lime as a kind of civic.

Start the fall with tasty shellfish and warming chowders. Enjoy clams and oysters, along with mussels in a variety of dishes. It's the season for them.

Shellfish on The Grill

One of the best tastes is roasted shellfish, yet many home chefs seem to avoid cooking them this way. The grill is usually reserved for the classics, dogs burgers, ribs and chicken. Some of the more adventurous will try salmon and even lobster. They're missing out on a simple dinner that is full of complex flavors.

Melissa Clark discovered this in her A Good Appetite column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Mussels and clams are pretty easy to cook. Humanity has been doing such since our earliest days and most beaches in the area hosted clambakes by the indigenous peoples for centuries. Cooking shellfish is a snap. Put over hot coals and wait until the shells open, When they open, eat  Just that simple.There are two cooking methods. One is throwing them directly on the grill grate until they open. This is the no fuss method however you miss out on those yummy juices that comes with the clams and especially the mussels. A better way is taking one of those disposable pans that you use for roasting holiday turkeys and putting the clams in first (they take longer to cook) and a few minutes later the mussels, The entire pain is tightly covered with heavy duty aluminum foil. This way you get the juices and whatever else you mix in with them.

What does work with both mussels and clams? Ms Clark recommends olive oil along with a dry white wine. There's also  the addition of garlic for flavor as well as red chili flakes for heat and mint leaves. The surprise ingredient is sliced almonds. What she does with this is create a kind of gremolata or herb chutney with the added crunch of the nuts. Another idea is to add herbed butter or lemon and butter to the pan along with a tiny bit of minced garlic. Fresh sliced tomatoes and red wine can also make a good sauce , A favorite add in at beach parties is beer where the shellfish is steamed in the brew.Shallots and thyme are also added  for more flavor. No matter how you makeyour clams and mussels,make sure there is plenty of crusty French or Italian bread to sop up the juices.Also make sure there are dishes or even pails to discard the shells.Ms. Clark recommends also serving a chilled white wine like Sancerre or a smoky Manzanilla sherry.

Mussels and clams deserve to be invited to be the barbecue. Grill them for any easy supper with a complex flavor. They are simply delicious, perfect for the season.

Clam Season

One of the biggest thrills of any summer is clamming.Many enthusiasts love he idea of clam digging and then cooking Them in a variety of different ways.This is what summer at the shore is all about ,especially for foodies.Get wet, splash about and dig up some plump clams for an ocean fresh dinner, perfect for a summer's night. Most Americans eat three different types of clams One is the Mercenaria Mercenaria, or hard clam,along with the soft shell,Mya arenaria and the quahog Artica Islandia. Some die hard lovers like to go clam digging.Unlike fishing ,there's really no equipment ,save for a bucket and possible small specialized rake if you're on the beach.If you're doing it by boat you need to get clam tongs(check the Internet for places that sell them)"These are scissor like and scrape the bottom of the shallow ocean floor(you should be out in about ten feet of water, just off the shoreline).They dig a couple of feet down below the surface, churning up the bivalves .You can also do this on land, too,using a Shinnecock rake.Walk out onto wet sand at low tide and , using it, scrape away.Another shallow water technique of gathering is the millennia old treading.Go in knee to waist deep , feel with your feet and them bend over.This should be done preferably in a bay or inlet where there's no danger of waves or undertow.Throw back clams that are too small and remember not to overfish the area that you're in.Before you clean them ,let them soak for about twenty minutes?They will spit out the sand during this time.When you're ready to cook lift each from the water and give them a good scrubbing with a veggie brush. Now that they're ready ,decide on how to make them.Clams are good steamed and this is the easiest method too.Steam them in a combo of grape seed or olive oil, white wine and onion, Add the clams and the clam juice as well and steam for ten minutes until they've opened.Serve with slices of crusty French bread and white wine.You can also steam them with just garlic and butter.For a fancier meal make a pot of linguini and have linguine with white clam sauce.Want the hungry surfer experience? Fry them.Clam shacks on both UScoasts are known for this fun treat.Use corn flour mixed with a scant pinch of cayenne pepper along with salt and pepper.First bathecem in milk or buttermilk and then dredge in the dry coating.Fry in vegetable , peanut or grape seed oil.Drain immediately on paper towels and serve hot with just lemon wedges.If you want some zing also have a bottle of hot sauce at the ready,Serve with fries and ice cold beer for a true clam shack experience. Enjoy not just the beach but the bounty that comes with it. there is nothing like fresh harvested and cooked clams. Savor their plumpness and brininess while enjoying a cool ocean breeze.

Festival Foraging

For now until the next few weeks there will be all sorts of festivals and street fairs. These are fun but can wreak havoc on our diets. The trick is to maneuver through these  and try to pick the healthiest food.There are some good for you treats hidden amongst all that fried and sugary fare.

Some festivals are ethnic ones. German have early versions of Octoberfest or even a few Somerfests while Italians have variations of San Gennaro and late summer fairs. Both groups have tasty foods  that you can just eat and eat. For the German fairs , it;s hard to find diet foods however you can cut down on some. Most serve bratwurst or even hot dogs. Try to eat these without the large rolls that accompany them. Stick with sauerkraut and red cabbage instead of potato salad. For the Italian festivals, try any chicken or seafood dish. A few offer a grilled garlic chicken with tomato sauce which is healthy along with clams with lemon. Steer clear of the pasta and fried dessert zeppolis.

Street fairs offer some of these foods and then some. A new trend is a stick full of deep fried potato chips. Steer clear of these and head for cups of veggie salad or hummus. Even a shish kabob with half meat and half peppers and onions is healthier treat.Don;t go by any booth that advertise deep frying anyone. These are lethal (and could also cause discomfort later). Street fairs also have stands that serve up cotton candy and candy apples. Yes, these are fun but are the ultimate sugar rush.Try to find a stand that specializes in chocolate dipped fruit.If anything you get the benefit of bananas, pineapples and strawberries.

Festivals and street fairs are fun for any foodie. They offer tasty treats but  be careful with what you eat. Stick with what's good nutritionally  as well as what tastes good. You'll enjoy it more.

Paella Both For Land And Sea

Paella is one of those dishes that works well in the summer.It ISA versatile dish that can use both land and. Sea ingredients.It is a dish that can be made on a grill or even a fire pit.All in all it's a great dish ,chock full of tasty ingredients ,flavored with spices. This delicious dish was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section . The piece written by Dining regular John Willoughby tells of a yearly contest between his writing partner , Chris Schlesinger and restaurant owner Valerie Burgo of South End Formaggio of Boston. Mr. Schlesinger is known for a seafood paella while Ms Burgo is famed for her land inspired paella.There is even an audience that tries out both.Either way ,both is a winner.There's nothing like a flavorful paella ,redolence with spicy meats and al dente rice.This last is a special Spanish style one that rapidly soaks up the liquids. This gives the rice a chewy external while the inside is creamy and moist What is the difference between land and sea paellas.Ms Burgo uses rabbit which is seared before being added to the dish.This maintains the meats smokiness throughout the dish.Other meats include chicken ,the traditional spicy Spanish sausage, chorizo along with jam on .A seafood paella is redolent with shrimp and clams.Chicken and choriz is laso used as is the traditional bomb a rice.Mr Schlesinger adds a scraped garlic garnish to. His along with a savory mix of saffron ,sherry and cumin.The best part for both is the crust at the bottom called rak rak. This is a crunchy addition to already tasty dish.. Paella is one of the best summer meals out there.It is a delicious mix of spices meats and rice.Whether you make it land inspired or sea influenced ,it is a veritable dish of the gods.Make it any way this summer, and enjoy the cornucopia of different flavors.

Don't Cook That - Eat it Raw

Why cook when you can eat your food raw? That's the philosophy of some chefs especially those who don't want to heat up a kitchen duyring these sweltering days. Surprsingly enough you can  eat  just about anything without it having been near a stove. There are all sorts of dishes that benefit with just being eaten fresh - in fact there's more flavor to them

Sushi is one of the most famous raw dishes in the world. Eating this Japanese staple is now a worldwide occurrence with more people putting aside their fears of downing uncooked seafood.They love the taste and the slippery cold feeling of raw, just sliced  tuna and eel.along with the brininess of  fresh seaweed wrappers. People go mad for almost every kind and practically gobble it down without much thought of any side effects. Long before sushi made it;s debut here Americans were slurping down raw oysters and clams. These have been relatively safe to eat , especially with local waters being cleaned up.. Nothing beats a bucket of clams and a few beers at any beachside bar.

What about eating other "raw foods"? Steak tartare which does elicit a certain amount of squeamishness from some although it  is perfectly all right to eat.As long as the meat is from a clean and sanitized butcher as well as being pre ordered it's fine.It has to to come from the cow's sirloin, tenderloin and T-bone areas. It's them mixed with a raw egg- again perfectly OK and seasoned with fresh chopped onion and spices. Carpaccio, is  a cousin to steak tartare and is now popular in many Italian restuarants across the world. It is sliced raw beef dressed with a creamy olive oil viniagrette and made at Venice's famed Harry's Bar by none other than its equally famed owner Giuseppe Cipriani.

This summer ditch the stove and have any of these raw dishes. They're  fine  and maybe even a little bit rebellious to eat a dish without being cooked. Just think of it as a new,cooler  way to eat during a heat wave