With Mother's Day right around the corner, everyone should be honing their breakfast skills. One of the components of a lush morning meal is French toast. Nothing beats this variation of the French pain
perdu. It's a surprisingly easy to make dish that even works for a Saturday or Sunday night supper.
Julia Moskin lets us in on the magic in her column in today's New York Times Food section. She has always gone for what she calls the "
slosher" method.
where milk and eggs are sloshed together in a bowl. It's then whisked together into a frothy liquid and white bread is dunked in, scooped out and fried in butter. The chance if it is delicious is about fifty-fifty - not very good odds for any recipe
,Ms Moskin goes to a good source for advice
, this being Jessica Koslow, the owner and chef of
Spirit. Her French toast starts with thick, almost steak like slices of white bread, first seared on the stove and then roasted in the oven. She follows the popular New York trend of stuffing the slices with jams (other restaurants use a sweetened cream cheese) However the secret isn't this, but whole cream. A few tablespoons go a long
way according to her
,It gives the custard a richer mouth feel. Home chefs who are still wary about using such a rich ingredient should opt for whole milk. The effect is sort of the same yet results in a better taste than using two percent milk.
Another aspect in making the pain
perdu parfait is the bread itself. Home chefs can use regular or Pullman bread which will give uniformly dipped and grilled slices. Ms.
Moskin also suggests using the egg rich
challah or equally rich brioche bread
.Personally I'd prefer either French or Italian bread
.It's dense and chewy and makes a wonderful French toast when sliced into half inch rounds
.Another factor in making an excellent slice is the amount of time
in the custard mixture
.Remember that French toast that has been over soaked will have a damp and gooey middle while the crusts stay crisp and brown. To have an evenly coated slice dip it in, letting both sides soak for about three to four Mississippi as Ms.
Moskin advises. There are some schools of thought that advocate adding everything from sugar to
Gran Marnier and Amaretto. Don't
.It's not a dessert to be later served with whipped cream and chocolate sauce. Stick with the butter and maple syrup
.Cooking it means aiming for a lacy brown crust on both sides. Think the golden brown of caramelized sugar and not the dull brown of overcooked eggs. You can do what the chefs do and coat it in sugar as it's fried in butter (Or I Can't Believe It's Not Butter)
.It'll be the perfect slice.
French toast is a simple but decadent dish.
Make it correctly and it will come out as good as any restaurant
.version
.It will be more than a simple slice of bread, it will be a sensual
experieince.