All great chefs are trailblazers, leaving behind legacies for the next generation of innovative cooks. This is none truer in the African-American community. Women chefs brought joy and history to their dishes , creating memorable recipes and memories for their patrons.
Regular contributor and accomplished chef Korsha WIlson wrote about Black women who left an indelible mark on American restaurant cuisine in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. She covers chefs from three decades, the Seventies ,Eighties, and Nineties. The restaurants are legendary, the cooks and dishes famed.Pamela Strobel was one of the first(there was Sylvia's started in 1962) owning and cooking for two restaurants ,Little Kitchen which was between 1965 to 1969 and Princess Pamela's Southern Touch which began in 1988 to 1998. She knew famous people such as Andy Warhol and even entertained her guests with bluesy songs. Her cooking skills came from her growing in South Carolina and featured simple meals like pork chops and collard greens. She created a sauce name for her mother who went by Beauty. This was [each preserved thinned with vinegar and has melted butter and lemon added to it. The latest was B. Smith who ran the popular B Smith.Her food was distinctively Low COuntry with crab croquettes , potato salad and a remoulade. for dipping . She made kale salads topped with chicken and salmon long before anyone else did.
The next decades saw the arrival of the famed Alberta Wright and Toukie Smith ,a celebrity in her own right.Chef Wright reigned from 1983 to 2007. She had the whimsically named Jezebel. Her restaurant was known for it's bright colored wall where equally bright art was hung,.She too was a South Carolinian who served Low Country specialties as crab soup laced with sherry, broiled red snapper stiffed with cornbread and oyster stuffing and shrimp Creole with rice and okra. Her enthusiasm for cooking and treating guests like family infused the place. Of course Toukie Smith brought that same level of good cooking to her eatery . She was truly a star ,appearing on the sitcom 227 and gracing the pages of Elle and Vogue . even though she is best known for these she also created Toukie's that lasted only four years, from 1994 to 1998. She was famed not only for her Black bottom pie, a decadent chocolate pudding filled pie but also for join tables and eat with guests.Those arriving were always welcomed with a kiss as she left a print of her signature red lipstick on them.
These women shaped not only Black culture in New York but the way all New Yorkers ate. They brought ssignature family dishes and African American cuisine to the forefront. They shaped Manhattan's taste buds in memorable ways.
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