Indigenous frybread has an interesting legacy. Many Native American families love it and have their own recipes. Yet it does have a controversial and sad past of how it came into being. It represents comfort and sadness, sweetness and bitterness..
Kevin Noble Maillard, a law professor at Syracuse University wrote this fascinating piece in yesterday's New York Times Food section along with being a regular contributor to the newspaper. He is an expert on the subject , belonging to the Seminole Tribe in Oklahoma along with writing the children's book Fry Bread : A Native American Family Story. Every tribal family has a fry bread recipe.it was originally created by the Navajo or Dine tribe.It originated 154 years ago when the US government forced Indians in Arizona to make a three hundred mile walk known as "The Long Walk". They had to relocate to New Mexico where they couldn't easily grow the beans and vegetables needed for their recipes. Native cooks had to adapt using government rationed commodities of powdered, preserved and dry goods. It is a painful reminder of how they were treated yet it became a staple at powwows, family dinners and events. The recipe is a basic one. It's a mix of flour salt baking powder and oil. Water is the only liquid used to make the dough moist. It's similar to the Mexican sopapilla which is the sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar.
The recipe has been shared by tribal members but it varies from family to family.Ramona Horsechief of the Pawnee Tribe and seven time winner of the National Indian Taco Championship of Pawhuska Oklahoma grows Pawnee blue corn in her garden and mills the flour for a sweeter , denser frybread. Le Etta Osborne-Sampson of the Seminole Nation of Oklahoma uses her grandmother's recipe which has sugar in it. The making of frybread is matriarchal as well. Hope Peshlakai was taught as a child by her grandmother and even follows her grandmother's habit of storing her cast iron skillet in her oven. She also had to deal with her husbands aunts who wanted to see her recipe for the bread. Ms. Horsechief uses her grandmother's 125 year old bread poker which is used to flip the bread.Mr. Maillard includes his recipe, undoubtedly a family one which is easy to make up. He adds sea salt and raw sugar and uses coconut oil for frying for a healthier alternative.It needs to rise for three hours before frying and then fry to the desired color. It could be a light gold to a deep brown depending on how crispy you want it.
Fry bread is a comfort food with a history. It is delicious bringing back memories for so many indigenous. Yet it also has a past that has to be reckoned with , despite its' soothing flavor.
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