Lancaster , Pennsylvania has always been the American home of the Amish and the Mennonites. For almost three centuries they have lived amongst themselves, only sharing their quaint recipes and dishes with the outside world. Yet there are other waves of refugees, some religious as their ancestors were, are coming to the area. The quiet world is changing - especially their food.
Priya Krishna ,a regular contributor and cookbook writer, wrote this informative piece for today's New York Times Food section.It starts with the Lancaster Central Market which houses an array of different food stalls which it has done since 1889. For decades the Amish sold their delicious fare of ,fruit, meats baked goods and produce.Now the aromas of North African and Middle Eastern foods fill the air while salsa is being sold along side chow chow and shoofly pie. The transformation reportedly fueled a small boom of upscale bars, breweries, restaurants and even art galleries. The New York Post declared the city "the new Brooklyn". Yet what's really behind the change is the large influx of immigrants and refugees who run many of the area's restaurants and food businesses. Lancaster has always been the haven for the persecuted and displaced. It became home to the Pennsylvania Dutch where they settled in 1709, after declaring their loyalty to the Anabaptist Movement in Germany and Moravia. The town became a stop on the Underground Railroad as residents sheltered runaway slaves in their homes. The 1930's saw Puerto Ricans arriving to work in the fields as did the Cubans in the 1980's.
Now there are a variety of different eateries that locals and visitors can enjoy. Even Malala Yousafzai. the 2014 Nobel Peace Prize winner, went to Saife's Middle Eastern Food. There is a framed photo of her and the owner Al Saife at his stand in Lancaster Market. The literal buffet of food is dazzling. The Indian and Nepali restaurant, Namaste, offers aloo bodi tama, a spicy black eyed pea soup loaded with potatoes along with momos, dumplings full of pork and scallions. The Lancaster Market has Moroccan and Indian food with bastilla pies and tangines, rife with lamb and spices. Locals can try Uruguayan foods which take from European cuisine. The town itself has a huge umber of Thai and Vietnamese restaurants. Some are combined and offer both pho and ramen. Upohar ,a popular, eatery capitalizes on both the vegan and global food trend. Their restaurant employs immigrants and refugees while providing the community with dishes from Africa and the Caribbean, Even their drinks menu is international. Diners can sip Iranian lemonade,Masala chai and Yerba mate, an Argentinian herbal tea.
This summer visit Lancaster PA. There is Old World traditional married with the New Global Order. It's a fascinating mix of old and new, with centuries old traditions being entwined with each other.
Wednesday, July 24, 2019
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