Cooking Ischia Style

Ischia is one of the must see resort islands Yes, it is surrounded by the azure Mediterranean , yes it has soft sands, and it's only a quick boat ride from Naples, but there's something else that just as amazing the cooking style, Thanks to its  volcanic vapors right underneath the ground's surface, islanders and tourists can enjoy food cooked both in the island's hot springs and hot sands.

Julia Moskin had the very good fortune to visit this Italian jewel and write about it in tomorrow's New York Times Food section.Ischia Is the less glamorous but still beautiful cousin of Capri and it's best  known for family holidays.It was formed, much like the surrounding area by volcanic activity which also provided the natives with both natural cooling and heating. Wine is  aged in caves carved naturally from  tuff,  the soft rock created from cooled lava and ash. Ischia's high forests were thrust up by eruptions, and these provide shade for the wild mushrooms and pigs that populate the area.The island's nickname is "Isola Verde" green island because the ashy soil is perfect for growing grapes,herbs,beans squash , cactus fruit and a tomato known only to the island, a tear shaped one, known as piennolo. This makes for delicious cooking with dishes such as wild herb fritters, eggplant gnocchi and ravioli filled with foraged greens, Caponata is also made here and is a popular lunch. Stale bread is another staple with Ischiani, with locals making a version of pan bagnat, using a heel of bread stuffed with tomatoes olives cheese and herbs, then wrapped tightly for a few hours. They also make a kind of bagel like bread called freselle that's dipped in salt water first and then served with olive oil  and ripe tomatoes.

Most dishes require either the hot sand or hot springs as cooking methods. Sand cooking or fumarole is not unlike cooking for a New England clambake or Hawaiian pig roast. A pit is dug in the sand, where more hot sand awaits and parcels of food is then placed in it. These are wrapped tightly in layers of  plastic, foil and even cloth to keep out sand and other aromas  and cooked in 350 degrees F sand.. The packets usually have chicken, tomatoes , onions and potatoes, this last added,  to absorbs the juices of the others along with white wine and herbs.After cooking , the parcels are hauled up and quickly unwrapped , drawing an audience of kids along with hungry dogs and cats.Rabbits, another Ischia staple are also cooked this way, however usually in an earthen ware pot. The salt water springs are popular with tourists who cook eggs and potatoes in the 180 degree F salt water pools.There is even a beach Il Fumarole where visitors can cook food or themselves on the beach. Hot springs and sand are excellent for curing sciatica, rheumatism and any after effects from fractures.

Go to Ischia for the beautiful beaches and delicious food but also go for the unusual and ancient cooking method of fumarole. It's a interesting cooking technique using the land and sea.