Mussels With A Gallic Twist

Mussels  are always a mainstay in French cuisine. They've also been hard to come by this winter thanks to their habitats being iced over. The freezing temps are now over, the floes have melted . These briny gems can now be bought and made into classic dishes.

Sam Sifton not only wrote about them but made them in the Times classic recipe billibi. the recipe appeared in yesterday's New York Times Food section where it was first published in 1961.Craig Claiborne, the famed food editor, along with the known chef, Pierre Franey copied billi bi from a classic French recipe.Originally created by the famed eatery, Maxim's of Paris ( and named for the American tycoon William B, Leeds it could be named for  either father or son, Both loved Paris and the soup. Their  nickname Billy B or Billy Bye Bye gave this treat its' name) this is a rich, creamy  soup.It has typical Gallic ingredients such as heavy cream, white wine and shallots A well beaten.egg yolk  gives the soup an almost custardy feel. An added spike is a pinch of cayenne pepper to give it some heat. Mr. Sifton also recommends freshly ground white pepper too for bite.Home chefs will need about two pounds of mussels and a good sized soup pot .

Billibi is relatively easy to make.The mussels are first cooked with greens, a mix of onions, shallots, parsley and bay leaf.This is also when the wine and butter are added as well as the cayenne or white pepper. The heat will also force open the mussels allowing their broth to pour out. This mix is strained through a cheesecloth to create a base stock for the soup.The mussel meat is then  reserved  for later. The broth is then returned to the pot and the cream to it. Egg yolk is drizzled in. Mr Claiborne served it without the mussel meat  and as an appetizer . Mr Sifton , however, recommends serving it as the main entrée poured over the morsels. Both recipes allow for a sprinkle of parsley on top of each serving. Billi bi can be served cold and it would be an interesting dinner for a hot summer evening . Either way, serve the soup with sliced toasted baguette for a true French flavor. Don't worry about leftovers; the soup is so delicious, there won't be any left.

Mussels are coming back with a vengeance. Try them in this classic French soup , billi bi . It's a delicious way to enjoy their rich brininess and tender meat.