Recently I wrote about the cuisine of Southern France's Provence. Today we're going to explore another facet of la cuisine francaise - bistro cooking. This is what the everyday Parisian is eating, basically simple foods yet just as tasty and well made as the Gallic haute cuisine. It may be for the common folk but it's extraordinary.
Bistro cooking is not unlike the British pub grub. I think the English stole this concept from the folks across the Channel because the French have offered good quality lunches and dinners at low prices for some centuries now. It's sometimes referred to as grand-mere cuisine or grandma's cooking. This is another name for comfort food, warm, rich and satisfying. It could include onion soup, that French classic which is redolent of caramelized onions in beef broth, topped with a rich coat of Gruyere cheese. It could be as simple as those tasty sandwiches the croque monsieur or croque madame. The first is essentially a grilled cheese made with creamy Swiss , and a slice of fresh ham on two slices of white bread. This is then fried in butter and served. A croque madame is the same except that chicken is used instead. Another bistro favorite is steak avec frites - in other words steak, usually well seasoned with shoestring potatoes. All these meals are usually accompanied by a good glass of red or white wine and a freshly tossed salad.
Bistro food can be slightly more complex. There are crepes, a street favorite throughout Paris and the Ile de France. These can be served plain with just lemon and sugar or stuffed with ratatouille, that Provencale classic along with various meats, vegetables and seafood. There is also coq au vin, which is a slow stewed rooster and burgundy stew.Cassoulet is another hearty favorite. This is simply a melange of white beans, pork sausages. chicken or duck slow cooked for hours. For somewhat lighter fare bistros will serve Coquille St. Jacques, scallops served in a cream sauce on a giant cockle shell.
French bistro cooking reflects French tastes but also the true Gallic passion for earthy foods that are filling and comforting. They satisfy a need not just for a flavorful dish but something familiar and soothing.
Monday, May 19, 2008
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