Weights and French Recipes

Yesterday's New York Times Dining section was chock full of interesting articles, Beside's the one on foil cooking (see yesterday's entry) there is one on cooking scales along with one featuring the French government's recipe book.What is also interesting is that the Times is featuring new writers such as Farhad Manjoo and Elaine Sciolino.

Manjoo's article about kitchen scales is a controversial one. Most chefs and even home cooks don't use them. Everyone relies on measuring cups along with dashes and pinches. Scales are only used by those watching their weight and have to have exact measurements. Yet using them cuts down on washing measuring cups and spoons. Just put the bowl on scale , add the ingredients and pour in what is needed. Kitchen scales aren't that expensive. You can get a good one from twenty to fifty dollars. Most stores do have have them and they are easy to find.

The second article is about a different kind of scale, the fair political balance France seems to have. That article, written by Elaine Sciolino tells of a political unity that this country could benefit from. A cookbook, aptly named The Cuisine of The Republic: Cook With Your Deputies (La Cuisine de la Republique: Cuisenez avec vos deputes!) is a compilation of different and downright delicious recipes from French politicians (and note- not one tea bag mentioned). The dishes are traditional and representative of each region. There are escargot and aged hare along with scalloped potatoes and a simple cake taken from a 15th Century recipe.

The Times Dining section had some interesting articles this week. One divided chefs into a controversy,One united politicians in celebrating their heritage . Both are good reads.

Frozen Dinner

This is time of year for ice cream - for dessert or for a snack. Not for dinner. However recently it was incorporated in a full six course meal. It was not six variations on sundaes and splits. Meats and veggies were actually served with it. To top it off dessert was ice cream as well.

This was the subject of an interesting article in the New York Daily News (which has some really good foodie articles from time to time) news reporter Irving DeJohn.The dinner was served at the Roger Smith Hotel as part of its ' Edible Conversations and was inspired by NYU adjunct. Prof.Laura Weiss; book Ice Cream :A Global History. The meals started off with Guinness Float shot which features vanilla iced cream and Stout. This is nothing new. Stout ice cream is popular right now in Manhattan ice cream bars.

It does get odder with the main meals. However the combinations do work. There was salmon crostini with horseradish ice cream that rendered the fish to almost like sushi.It was followed by beet carpaccio with a goat cheese flavored one. Pea soup was also served,topped with yogurt iced cream. The biggest surprise was the tastiness of a seafood ceviche paired with a lime sorbet. It worked well together and according to deJohn tasted like a fishy margarita. There was also a loin of venison with lingonberry iced cream which was no surprise. Oftentimes deer meat is served with sweet lingonberry jelly to balance out the gaminess. The meal ended with a bitter chocolate gelato, sprinkled with sea salt, caramel and pretzels.

Is ice cream for dinner the next big thing?It would be perfect during these hot days however
it;s better relegated to dessert. There's nothing like finishing up a meal with a frozen ball of chocolate, vanilla or fruity goodness.

Soup Homemade Vs Canned Controversy

This is the weather when soup reigns supreme. It;s the perfect lunch after a morning shoveling snow. It's the ideal light supper on a Sunday night after a day of skating skiing or even just walking. The question is to make it fresh or open a can? What's best? What's easiest? There in lies the question

Of course fresh , homemade soup is the healthiest for you. You don't have all that extra sodium that soup companies add to theirs. You also know the ingredients are fresh and at times organic. You can tailor the mixes to fit your families likes and dislikes as well as allergies. However they are time consuming t make. There is a lot of prep time for ingredients such as squash , broccoli and cauliflower Seafood has to be precooked and shelled. Meats have to be deboned and cut up. if you make too much you'll have a freezer full til June.

Canned soups do have an allure to them. One it;s just opening up the can and dumping it into a waiting saucepan. This is a plus for the more complicated soups such as Italian wedding and any of the clam chowders.Also you don;t have to go on a wild goose chase of the out of season ingredients such as broccoli or tomatoes. The down side are the sodiums along with the preservatives which can trigger allergic reactions. You can buy all natural organic soups however some taste like dish water.

The best bet is to make the soups you're familiar with and buy the more complicated ones . Vary between then them. Any soup is good , especially during these cold times.

Gumbo - A Kwanzaa Delight

Like any observation Kwanzaa also comes with traditions as well. One of the more popular dishes is gumbo, that blend of African and American tastes. It is also a perfect chill chaser for these cold days as well as a lovely way to celebrate African heritage. Anyone can make a gumbo from the novice to the pro. It's easy and what's best is that the ingredients can be varied.

Gumbo 's origin is entwined in both the West African and the Choctaw Indian. the make wither came form the Angolan or Bantu word for okra (ki)ngombo or Choctaw kimbo which means sassafras. This last is an important ingredient in the mix. Gumbo is at best a stew to be served over long grained rice. It;s main ingredients are okra, and the holy trinity of Creole and Cajun cooking, tomatoes, peppers and onions.The last was a contribution to Louisiana's Spanish settlers. Roux isadded sometimes to thicken the consistency. Creoles make a darker one while Cajun cooks prefer a lighter one.

Meats can varied, For Kwanzaa it's typical to have a spiced turkey gumbo. However you can sub in chicken if you want. A heartier one would be with the famed andouille sausages , popular in New Orleans. of course any real gumbo has seafood, mostly shrimp and crab meat. Oysters and mussels can be added as lobster. There is a vegetarian gumbo made with nine greens such as collard and turnip greens but this is more for Lent and Good Friday.

A rich , spicy gumbo is a good way to celebrate the harvest meaning of Kwanzaa. The harvests can come from the land or the sea and stand for the bounty of each. A huge pot of gumbo is also a great way of reaching out to family and friends during this special time .

Dinner For One

It's not easy being a single foodie. You don't have anyone to share that magnificent risotto with or split a hazelnut brownie. Some nights all you want to do is open a can of tuna and sit down by yourself. Don't despair. Dining for one can be fun. Just treat a meal alone as time to wind down and savor everything, including life.

Sometimes it's the surroundings that may make you fully aware of being by yourself. If that's the case then go out to a fancy restaurant , hide behind some glamorous shades and pretend you're an A-Lister. Another idea is pack all your favorite foods in to a hamper or cooler and have yourself a picnic in your favorite spot. It can be the beach or under a tree. Bring something really indulgent , whether it's gourmet potato chips or a designer root beer. Savor the time by yourself. Bring a book or magazine and just unwind.Take a brief snooze of you feel sleepy afterwards. It's time just meant for you and you alone.

If you're cooking for your lone self, then splurge every now and then. you don't have to eat just a bowl of cereal and milk or throw a Lean Cuisine special into the microwave. Grilling steak or chicken is easier than ever these days. You can also steam veggies and serve with a premade orange ginger sauce for a neat Chinese dinner.
Salads are easy and fun to make . There's all sorts of neat ingredients you can add and enjoy by yourself. French toast is easy to make any time and you can just had Cool Whip and sliced berries. A lot of groceries sell premade Belgian waffles that all you have to do is heat in the toaster and you can serve with anything - egg on top along with ham or just syrup and butter.

Just because you;re eating alone doesn't mean you can't have fun. Be creative with where you eat and what you eat. Sometimes you can be the best company in the world.

Orange Ginger sauce.

1 tablespoon freshly shaved ginger.

2-3tablespoons orange juice

1 small clove garlic minced

salt an d pepper.


Mix all ingredients together and pour on grilled chicken and steamed veggies.

Viva le Patisserie Francaise

In honor of French Independence Day (or the day the Capet monarchy was destroyed in France, depending upon how you look at it) I'm dedicating today's entry to French pastries. These sinfully delicious treats have always been a part of French life. Luckily , they're a part of American life as well. The problem is what to buy when you go to to your local patisserie.

There's really so much to choose from upon entering this kind of bakery. It will be mostly sweets and very little breads. These are sold in what's known as a boulangerie , a store that sells nothing but bread and rolls. A pastry shop will have a variety of tarts and cakes. You'll can get every kind of flavor from chocolate Savoyard (which are a rich cream and chocolate ganache filled loaves) to fraise bavaroise ,(a filling strawberry cake)There will be baba au rhums, wine cork shaped yeast cakes soaked in rum. A typcal patisserie will also serve plum and apricot tarts. These are cream filled buttery shells topped off with the fruits and glazed with an apricot jam. You can also buy similar ones in apple and strawberry depending upon the season.The French love raspberries so don't be surprised to find a few tartes and cakes filled with them. There is also a plain cake known as a galette which is usually served on Twelfth Nigh t or Three Kings Day , January 6th.

Most patisseries here sell variations of eclairs and Napoleons. The first usually has a chocolate covering as opposed to the traditional caramel. It's usually filled with a vanilla cream but also can be filled with just whipped cream. Napoleon, that classic French treat is another dessert It is also called mille feulle meaning a thousand layers. This was a spin on Greek pastries with the name coming from the Greek word for neck. Patisseries will also sell variations on that sweet roll, the brioche, as well as almond and chocolate croissants.

The French love cookies but not the thick hearty kind. You'll be able to buy tuiles (French for tiles) which are thin crunchy butter cookies. Gaufrettes or wafers are also sold. These are rolled cookies sometimes dipped in chocolate.

Celebrate Bastille Day with a visit t your own patisserie. have a love tart au fraise or some tuiles with your afternoon coffee.

Summer Seafood Dishes

Now with the warm weather here, everyone's mind and palate turns towards the briny deep. Summer usually means the beach and with it a taste for fresh seafood. There are so many different types of it, from lobster to shad that a foodie can spend an entire season just enjoying fish as the main dish. There are also a variety of ways ot enjoy it as wellfrom salads to barbecue. Each way is fun and flavorful, the perfect way to start the season.

The most popular seafood , without a doubt is lobster. Everyone enjoys a fresh cooked one dripping with melted butter. This cousin of a spider (yes spider, it's part of the arachnid family)is best served steamed (if you're an animal rights activist, please don't read on)as New Englanders and lobstermen did. It then should be served with freshly melted butter. However you can also chill the lobster meat and mix with mayo and celery. Serve this on a hot dog bun for the quintessential lobster roll. This is popular through the Hamptons and there are roadside stands featuring it with a side of potato chips and a Coke. if you're feeling more adventurous then try making lobster thermador which is steamed lobster with a richly spiced bechamel sauce. This does take a lot of work and ingredients plus a hot oven to create and you make want to stick with an easier dish. Lobster salad is always good. Just prepare a regular tossed salad with an oil and red wine vinegar dressing and add the cooked lobster chunks. It makes a light but elegant dinner.

Another summer seafood favorite is shrimp. With this you can grill it, turn it into a salad or just eat it boiled with a homemade or prepared hot sauce. You can also fry up popcorn shrimp which is simply the fish dipped in egg and breadcrumbs. This is a great dish for any out door party because it can be the main meal too. Serve it with three or four dipping sauces along with some fresh veggies. Remember that in preparing you have to devieln the shrimp. Most stores such as Williams and Sonoma along with Target sell shrimp deveiners but you can also use a small paring knife for this task. First peel off your shrimp's back and legs and then slice into the exposed portion. Carefully lift the vein that resembles black thread running through the meat and discard. Put deveined shrimp on ice until ready to prepare.Crab is another warm weather favorite.It can be used in salads or just boiled and served with melted butter similar to lobster.

If you're thinking of making fish dishes this summer then try grilling .You can get fresh seasonal fish at your local market. Don't opt for the whole fish however. Buying fillets would be a better choice. You can marinate them and then grill later. Try lime or lemon with oregano for a tasty and flavorful marinade.

Summer usually means heading to the beach and enjoying the ocean. You can also enjoy its' fruits the next time you make a warm weather seafood feast for yourself and friends.

French Bistro Food

Recently I wrote about the cuisine of Southern France's Provence. Today we're going to explore another facet of la cuisine francaise - bistro cooking. This is what the everyday Parisian is eating, basically simple foods yet just as tasty and well made as the Gallic haute cuisine. It may be for the common folk but it's extraordinary.

Bistro cooking is not unlike the British pub grub. I think the English stole this concept from the folks across the Channel because the French have offered good quality lunches and dinners at low prices for some centuries now. It's sometimes referred to as grand-mere cuisine or grandma's cooking. This is another name for comfort food, warm, rich and satisfying. It could include onion soup, that French classic which is redolent of caramelized onions in beef broth, topped with a rich coat of Gruyere cheese. It could be as simple as those tasty sandwiches the croque monsieur or croque madame. The first is essentially a grilled cheese made with creamy Swiss , and a slice of fresh ham on two slices of white bread. This is then fried in butter and served. A croque madame is the same except that chicken is used instead. Another bistro favorite is steak avec frites - in other words steak, usually well seasoned with shoestring potatoes. All these meals are usually accompanied by a good glass of red or white wine and a freshly tossed salad.

Bistro food can be slightly more complex. There are crepes, a street favorite throughout Paris and the Ile de France. These can be served plain with just lemon and sugar or stuffed with ratatouille, that Provencale classic along with various meats, vegetables and seafood. There is also coq au vin, which is a slow stewed rooster and burgundy stew.Cassoulet is another hearty favorite. This is simply a melange of white beans, pork sausages. chicken or duck slow cooked for hours. For somewhat lighter fare bistros will serve Coquille St. Jacques, scallops served in a cream sauce on a giant cockle shell.


French bistro cooking reflects French tastes but also the true Gallic passion for earthy foods that are filling and comforting. They satisfy a need not just for a flavorful dish but something familiar and soothing.