The Delicacy Of Frog's Legs

Frog's legs and France were so entwined at one time it was hard not to think of one without thinking of the other.Then les jambe des grenouilles fell out of favor.Now they're back. ,not just in the traditional style but also served in a variety of new ways.(warning ,for Kermit lovers ,this could be graphic seriously) Elaine Sciolino rediscovered them and wrote about them in her Letter From Paris column in yesterday's New York Times Dining section.She visited a fourth generation chef ,Christophe Marguin. His great grandfather first made the national dish in 1906 when the frogs were caught out of a family pond. monsieur Marguin followed his heritage and opened up a restaurant ,not only serving the amphibian but also decorated with them as well.There are even hand painted frogs on the plates as well as frog statues and statuettes.Frogs are now imported to France ,usually from Poland, Albania and the Far East.The French government had put a ban on frog hunting since the 1980's however there are some relaxation to the law.Marguin and his wife actually raise them which is legal.There is barn full of them which his wife tends. As for the meat itself, Mssr. Marguin serves them in the traditional style ,sautéed with butter.The legs are first broiled and then drenched with a frothy butter sauce cooked over a low flame.There is also a galette,made with potatoes almond powder and white wine.There is the overly decadent caviar and scrambled eggs decorated with frog legs slivers and chives along with a crusty tart redolent with mushrooms and nuggets of frog meat(author's note although I'm writing about this,I really don't like the idea of eating frog.They're just too cute and really don't encourage my readers to do so).Surprisingly frogs are eaten in the American South,.Men catch then from ponds and creeks, cut off the legs and make them like chicken legs,coated in batter and deep fried.Where as the French serve the legs with champagne, good old boys like their froggies with a cold beer. France and frog legs are so enmeshed in each other.One can't think of French cuisine without them.For some foodies they are the ultimate delicacy.They represent true Gallic gourmet food.