What is comfort food?If you're Korean then it;s yakgwa an ancient dessert that's hot again. This sweet has been around for centuries yet's it's firmly beloved by a new generation. Its also an easy bake in any home oven so everyone can discover it's specialness.
Regular contributor and chef Eric KIm wrote about this treat in yesterday's New York Times food section, Yakgwa roughly translates to medicinal confection and for years Koreans used the prized syrup for illnesses .It also connects genrations and tells the story of Korea;s reverance for tradition and optimism for the future. It's been eaten since the Goryeo Dynasty that existed between 918 and 1392 CE and now has had a resurgeance and beyond thanks in part to YouTube and TIktok videos. Then there is the Korean drama Alchemy of Souls" on Netflix that feature the sweet. There is also South Korea's Generation MZ a hybrid of Millenial and Generation Z who have made it popular again. It's easy to find in South Korea with boutique companies like Golden Piece and Jangin Hangwa selling the original honey to newer flavors like lavender, chocolate and even cookies and cream.Traditionally, because of the scarcity of it;s ingredients, honey, sesame oil and flour, the treats were only eaten on special occasions like coming of age, marriage death and veneration of the dead. It's used in memorials although a new generation is having it more often.
It is rare to get here in the States. Chef Kim has included a recipe for it. Yakgwa is basically a fried cookie tha'ts surprisingly made without butter, eggs or milk. Ginger , cinnamon and freshly ground black pepper flavor it A quarter cup of honey or maple syrup provide the sweetness as does two tablespoons granulated sugar. Soju , a clear and distilled Korean brain alcohol is added to the dry ingredients along with the honey and sesame oil. Soju can be found in most liquor stores. Everything is mixed together to form a rough dough.It's kneaded then rolled out. Once cut it;s fried in vegetable oil. You will need to go to a Korean grocery store for the jocheong or brown rice syrup used for the syrup that's poured over th e fried cookies. This also gives the sweets a nice glossy finish too. I'ts mixed with more honey or maple syrup and fresh ly cut ginger is added to this to give it zing. After the cookies have been fried and then cooled for half an hour they're soaked in the syrup overnight and are ready to serve. Many decorate them with pine nuts or crystalized ginger.
Yakgwa is a treat that now can be enjoyed at home. It reprsents the long history of Korea but also it's futire.It's a sweet from the past that can be enjoyed now
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