A Spring-y Take On Pasta

This is the time of early harvests. One of those is peas. Their , fresh, green flavor is a harbinger
 of the bounties to come. They are good on their own. Paired with pasta,they become almost magical, bursting with a sweet earthiness.

David Tanis knows this and wrote about the pairing in his column A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section,.Right now peas in pods are finally making an appearance in farmer's markets, here on the East Coast. (the West Coast have been enjoying them for the past few weeks). Peas have always gone well with pasta.They add color and zing to a cream sauce, while giving it a fresh, garden-y taste. The addition of pancetta gives Mr. Tanis'  sauce a salty smokiness, another perfect foil  that adds an interesting note.Pancetta , especially the unsmoked kind should be found at your local grocery but if you can't then just add in regular smoked bacon. Pancetta is usually sold in cubes or lardons and Mr. Tanis recommends simmering them in water for a minute or two. Doing this tomes down the smokiness and renders the fat. He also adds mustard green which were also found at his outdoor market. as for the pasta, any would do but papperdelle is the best. The sauce clings to the ribbon like pasta Either buy it fresh made or the imported dried version in boxes. if you're
adventurous enough, use your pasta maker and create those silky ribbons.

Making the sauce is easy.Everything is cooked in one skillet and afterwards the pasta is added to it.
The sauce  is bursting with not just the peas but also with the flavors of fresh basil,mint and parsley leaves. These three have to be put in either a mortar or mini food processor and mashed into a coarse pesto like paste. Mr. Tanis also adds green garlic shoots , also found in farmer's markets right now. Both the green and white parts should be used and finely chopped. As for the peas , four cups should do it. They and the garlic shoots are added to olive oil and should be sizzled but without turning brown. The pancetta is then tossed in   along with half a cup of water. Add the mustard greens
, then the herb paste along with a cup of fresh ricotta and the zest of one lemon. Boil the pasta, drain
mix into the sauce.. Transfer to a platter or individual bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan.If you want to change it up, use fettucini or tagliatelli.instead of the papperdelle.

Take advantage of the harvest that come with Spring. Right now it's peas. Try them in a creamy sauce that pair well with robust pastas.