Turning Dishes Into Soup

 Can a favorite dish enjoyed as a snack or a summer favorite be turned into a hearty winter soup? Surprisingly yes. Hummus, bean salad and pasta pesto can be transformed form forkfuls to spoonfuls. It 's an easy change and perfect for the weather right now.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark created these dishes and wrote about them in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. All are great on their own. Hummus makes and excellent lunch or snack while the other two are usually summer barbecue favorites.Ms Clakrs inspiraration,. for using these were favorite dishes with big flavors. These are not usual soup ingredients(well, may be the pesto is) but have great potential to be made into them. Ms Clark takes the pesto which can be homemade or s tore bought has pasta and turkey in it,.There is also garlic in it for pungency. Like regular soups the base can either be vegetable or chicken stock. Orzo or macaroni CNA be used a long with five ounces of baby spinach. Ground turkey is used for heartiness. Lemon gives it brightness and a summery sunny taste while the addition of ricotta gives it a creaminess.

Three bean salad , the perfect summer dish is now a delicious soup for a frigid day. Yes there are beans.Ms. Clark uses white, chickpeas or kidney ones and green beans.It give a more veggie flavor thanks to an onion chopped up into it along with chopped celery , carrot  and tomato paste. Again the stock CNA be veggie or chicken (stick with veggie this time Coriander and ground pepper give it a spikiness that's perfect for a cold day soup. The hummus soup is a fun one, combining the same ingredients as the dip with three to four cups of veggie or chicken stock (for a truer hummus flavor go with the vegetable stock).Unlike the dip Ms Clark uses a teaspoon of whole cumin seeds along with cilantro or dill. A large pinch of crushed red pepper gives it the heat to make it perfect for a chilly mid winter day.  Home chefs can add pan fired chickpeas for crunch on top as well as extra tahini to drizzle in.Lemon is added for zing and the dish can be served with , hot toasted pita chips.

These dishes are perfect as for full of goodness. They're even better as a good spoonful or a frosty day. Try them for a different spin on winter soups.

Homemade Hors'D 'Oeuvres

 A holiday party or Christmas dinner should start with a pretty platter of hors d'oeuvres. A nice touch would be creating a variety of tasty nibbles from scratch. There's a wide variety to choose from so you can have a varied plate.

One of the most classic hors d'oeuvre is the cheese ball. This is one of the easiest recipes to make.Use cream cheese as the base and mix it with a good cheddar. Sharp, tangy cheddar is the best because it willhave a nice zing to it. Grate the cheddar into the a bowl of cream cheese. WHat gives commerically made cheese balls their unique flavor is the addition of Worcester sauce and finely chopped green onions or scallions. Once these are combined start forming a ball using a spatula. Then use your hands. It's now time for the famous nut crust. Use a mix of chopped  nuts like walnuts , almonds and pistachios. You can serve it surrounded by Ritz crackers or something fancier like homemade crostini. Another tasty cheese dish is whipped ricotta on crostini. it's ricotta mixed with a bit of honey, olive oil and garlic. You can top this with a savory topping like a pickled tomato and onion or a sweet one like peaches and figs. For a surprise salty jold add a paper thin layer of prosciutto between toppings.

Phyllo cups are always a welcome bite at any gathering. Hoemmade ones are pretty easy to whip up.It takes only two ingredients - phyloo sheets that your local grocery's freezer section has and butter or a plant butter  like Melt. I'ts first brushing the sheets with melted butter and then just cutting them to fit muffins tins. Bake with a filling at 350 degree Farenheits for ten to twelve minutes. What to fill them with? Try various quiches fillings sich as the traditional quiche Lorraine which has ham or bacon and caramelized onions mixed with eggs. Vary these with spinach and asparagus.  You could also try a mix of cranberry and Brie or the cheese with sliced pears. Bite sized beef Wellingtons are another tasty and sophisticated holiday bite. This is taking beef tenderloin and  cutting it into small one inch cubes cubes.  Brown the tendeloin bits in olive oil until the meat is browned. Let cool and the wrap into puff pastry. Brush each square with beaten egg for a glossy brown crust and then bake for ten minutes in a 400 degree Farenheit oven. Serve with mustard. You can  add a layer of chopped mushrooms and onions if you want a more authentic Beef Wellington flavor.

Homemade hors d'ouevres are always special. Try these for a tasty beginning to any holiday meal. YOur guests will appreciate them.

Purim And Holi Treats

 There are so many delicious treats with two fun holidays, the Jewish Purim and Hindu Holi happening now. Both are fun , with the first having an almost carnival atmosphere and the second a joyous celebration. Enjoy them both with sweets and treats

Purim is the commemoration of the Jewish people being saved from annihilation at the decree of an ant- Jewish official of the Achaemenid Empire.There is wine drinking by the men in some Orthodox communitiues while the whole community share in games and treasts along with wearing costumes.Hamantaschen or Haman's pockets (named for the villain of the story, Haman a minister to the king of Persia).In Israel they're called oznei Haman. They're triangular cookies filled wirh a variety of different fillings.The cookie is like a shortbread dough, with flour ,eggs sugar and flour. it's a mild flavor won't over power the fillings. You could use poppy seeds which represent  the bribes that stuffed Haman's pocket. Apricot and prune are also popular fillings and some home bakers use chocolate now. There are also hadgi badah , am almond cardamon cookie that Iraqi Jews love. Borth African Jews love debla, strips of thin dough wrapped in the shape of a rose  and deep fried. They're covered in sugar syrup and nits and symbolize the megillah, the Book of Esther.

Holi is another joyous holiday starting tomorrow. It symbolizes the coming of Spring and the blossoming of love. It's also a time to forgive, play, laugh and mend broken relationships.People throw colored powders at each other in wild abandon as they enjoy both savory and sweet dishes. Hosts offer platters of gujiya, a sweet fried dumpling stuffed with milk solids, coconut and nuts. These can even be made in an air fryer, The dough is an easy make, consisting of flour clarified melted butter or ghee and water. Mawa is added and you can buy this at any Indian  supermarket or make it with ricotta and ghee. Add cardamon for a heavy sweet flavor along with raisins and nuts. Mix with powdered sugar  to create a kind of cannoli fuilling. Another type of dumpling , a lentil one is also served. This is dahi bhalla, which are dipped in a yogurt  dip. Two kinds of dal or mashed lentils are made . Chilis and peppercorn are added for zing , The dipping sauce is a mix of Greek yogurt with kashmiri chilli powder whuch gives th e yogurt a rich red color. Sugar and tamarind juice balance it out with sweetness.

Celebrate Purim and Holi with tasty bites.It;s a time for partying and eating good food. Try these treats for extra fun.

Pizza Rustica This Weekend

 Tonight , being Holy Thursday is the start of the Easter weekend. It's a time to think of traditions and the recipes that come with it. One is the Southern Italian dish of pizza rustica. It is a dish that can be made for Easter but also for the days around it.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about this classic in her A Good Appetite Column in yesterday's New York Times Food review.It;'s sort of like a cross between a quiche and maybe a calzone. It symbolizes  the end of Lent and the return of eggs, meat and cheese to the diet after Lenten restrictions of them. It goes by a variety of different names from torta rustica or rustic cake to pizza di Pasqua and pizza gaina. It is much beloved in Southern Italy where there are many different variations.Nowadays all Italians  bake it and not just for Easter.Ms/ Clark's Roman friend Sophie Minchelli spent the Covid 19 locdown baking all sorts of them. She tried ones with puff pastry and tweaking the filling to what she had on hand. Her Spring  time version forgoes meat and has plenty of seasonal greens like chard. Ms. CLark combines greens and ham in her version, instead of using the traditional and stronger tasting salame and prosciutto.As for the crust she opts for a pasta frolla or sweet crust (!) fragranced with lemon zest. Giving the pie a sweet crust offsets the filling's savoriness.

She provides the recipe which is easy to replicate. Again her pasta frolla crust , taken from Nancy Harmon Jenkins Cucina Del Sole (William Morrow COokbooks ) uses two tablespoons of granulated sugar to provide the sweetness along with three to four tablespoons of a dry white wine (You can sub in white wine vinegar mixed with ice water for this)Th e rest is basically a typical pie crust blend of flour , water and butter. Adding one egg enriches it and gives it color. The filling is a mix of whole milk ricotta and a choice of Pecorino, Romano or Parmesan cheeses.Use half a cup of chopped ham.There are also five cups of s baby spinach or chard cooked for two minutes in olive oil and garlic. It's cooked until wilted but not soaked in the oil. Drain off any liquid . You don;t want that in the pie because it will create a watery texture.It's then making the custardy filling by pureeing the eggs and drained ricotta with the spinach , ham, cheese and spices.Add red pepper flakes for zing. Set aside while you roll out the dough. It's then assembling in a pie pan. Save some dough for creating the traditional lattice top crust.Use an egg wash Cook for fifty to sixty minutes in a preheated 375 degree Farenheit oven.

Pizza rustica is the perfect Easter pie to make for the holiday dinner. It is also perfect for the Easter Monday picnics and Spring parties. Try this Italian classic for a nice warm weather treat.

A Savory Babka

By now everyone should be an expert at bread making. Why not step it up a notch and try babka, a savory one that makes for a nice lunch or dinner with salad. It's a fun bake and a different kind of challenge.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark gave us this recipe in her  A Good Appetite Column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. This isn't the traditional cinnamon one or the trendy chocolate laced kind. This is a savory one, with a cheesy herbed filling that takes on a Mediterranean vibe with the addition of prosciutto, salami  or olives.It's the perfect quick meal and you can even bring it along on a picnic. Just remember that babka, like any bread, can be labor intensive. It has to be proofed twice. The first time should be in a cozy, warm place according to Ms. Clark. Think of it like a cat looking for a place to nap, she advises.A bowl of the proofing dough can be placed on top of the fridge, and even in the nook of your couch. It could even be wrapped in a blanket and placed on a sunny spot on the floor. Then there's the second proofing. This is done in the fridge overnight. The long fermentation develop's the bread's flavor however if you;'re strapped for time, then a four hour proof can do the trick.

As for the filling, Ms Clark gives a mixture of ricotta and Parmesan. However if you don't have it she recommends any creamy cheese such as goat, cottage or even cream cheese.It does have to be room temperature for better malleability If you want extra saltiness then add some olives and ham along with alliums such as chopped scallions and minced garlic.Herbs are important in the recipe too, however if you're partial to one or two, then just use your favorites. Try such finely chopped ones as basil mint , parsley thyme leaves or cilantro. Three tablespoons of them should do the trick in flavoring the whole loaf. The one problem with babka is shaping it. There are videos you can watch  but it's just a simple, roll and braid. Ms. Clark assures that the loaf is fine  if the filling is put into the dough, then rolled and baked. Her method is spreading the filling on the rolled out dough. Use an icing scraper for this. Roll it into a tightly coiled log,then bring one end to the other and twist. Baking time is 35 to 45 minutes   375 degree oven. The result is a fragrant , golden brown bread. Serve it warm as a meal with a nice salad.

A savory babka is a nice change up from the regular breads everyone has been making. This is a cheesy , herb rich slice that's perfect for lunch or dinner. Bake it today for a nice break.

Invite To A Big Lasagna Party

We all need a big get together and party right now.Luckily there is just that thanks, to regular New York Times Food contributor, Samin Nosrat, She is hosting a gathering this Sunday 7 PM Eastern standard TIme. on Instagram. Come one, come all.

Chef Nosrat is not new to dinner parties and gatherings. Since her college days she has thrown together meals that ranged from paellas cooked on a rusted fire pit in a yard to churning out gallons of ice cream in her apartment. She has thrown parties in abandoned airplane hangars and deserted beaches and sprawling farms. Then there were the  get togethers at Tartine, the famed San Francisco eatery, where their corner bakery was set up to feed the restaurant's bakers. The group enjoyed Chef Nosrat's shrimp boils, brisket and latkes. She baked twelve layer lasagnas and billowy  souffles they all enjoyed. Now
 Chef Nosrat is coming into our homes as we go into her Southern Californian one.Her dish of choosing? An old fashioned lasagna, perfect with a bottle of red wine. For some of you novice chefs out there freaking out right now, don't worry. You can make your own creation, whether it's spaghetti and meatballs or just a sandwich. Just so long as you're there. That's what matters.

Is Chef Nosrat's recipe an easy one? It's a classic one, familiar to those who have grown up with Southern Italian recipes and big Sunday pasta dinners. The filling is ricotta along with fresh or even frozen spinach. She suggests using string cheese - fun - if you don't have Provolone or mozzarella handy. There's also grated Parmesan Asiago or Grano Padano. You can use dried Italian seasoning or fresh basil along with fresh Italian parsley and chives. There is the Bechamel sauce, an easy mix that can also go over chicken or fish. Again it's just flour, butter, milk and nutmeg mixed together. The tomato sauce can be your favorite jarred one or the one from the NY Times Simple Tomato sauce located in NYT Cooking. If you're really ambitious make the sheets of lasagna noodles yourself (again the recipe is on the NYT Cooking site). There's more cheese added. from Grano Padano to string. Assembling it may be labor intensive however if your family is joining you, then employ them to help. As for the wine, Chef Nosrat suggests Chianti or a barbera from Piemonte. The kids can have a celebratory soda or chocolate milk.

Mark  this Sunday at seven as a dinner date. Make Chef Nosrat's lush and classic homemade lasagna or not. Just be there to enjoy good food and good talk.

A Spin On Cassoulet

One of the most comforting of all foods is the French winter classic cassoulet. I'ts a hearty but sometimes labor intensive stew that is a melange of meats and beans. It can be tiring to create however there's a new spin to make the dish easier.

David Clark realizes this and gave it his twist in yesterday's New York Times Food section. His column, A City Kitchen has this new recipe along with a first course and a neat dessert. It is the duck that stands out , though. He slow roasts duck , serving it with mashed white beans sizzled herbs and olives. It's more of an Italianate spin than French. There is rosemary which the original recipe does not have along with green and black olives. As for the duck, Mr. Tanis suggests using only the legs and recommends the Moulard breed, a plumper hybrid of the every day duck. The legs are topped with peppery arugula leaves dressed with lemon and salt. To change it up a bit sub in broccoli rabe. Instead of putting everything into a cassoulet pot or Dutch oven, use a sheet pan for the legs to achieve a nice, crispy skin and tender moist flesh, similar to confit. The beans are still cooked with onions as in the original recipe along with cloves and garlic. They're then mashed with some of the bean liquid and resemble mashed potatoes. (A potato masher is used for this). You could even serve these with roasted chicken too.

As for the first course, Mr. Tanis decides on seafood, namely clams.They're simply steamed and then served with a garlic parsley butter and lime for zing. The butter is actually used for escargots  - snails - but work perfectly with  the clams. It's a mix of unsalted butter, freshly chopped parsley and garlic. The blend is then melted and cooked with lime zest and lime juice. The clams themselves, little necks, are cooked with leeks and white wine.Another alternative is raw oysters on a half shell. As for the dessert, Mr. Tanis goes somewhat light with ricotta paired with a  rhubarb , ginger and cardamon sauce.It's a spin on the Mediterranean treat of the cheese drizzled with fresh honey. Ginger and cardamon  pods are cooked with sugar and water to form a spiced syrup. About a pound of rhubarb is used for this. If you're wondering where to get it so early in the season, check Wal-Mart or Whole Foods. The mix is served on a wedge of ricotta and decorated with pine nuts or pistachios. As for what wine to serve with the whole dinner, try any of the reds such as Tuscany's Chianti Classico or Brunello de Montalcino.

If you're craving cassoulet but don't want the hard work, consider this recipe with or without the first course and dessert. It's an easier way of enjoying duck and beans . This is a simple cook with a deliciously complex flavor.

A Holiday Buffet Of Sandwiches

Forget the canapes and mini bruschettas. Nix the pineapple and bacon sticks. Finger sandwiches are the way to go for your holiday party. They can be fun; they can be elegant. Most of all they are filling and tasty - two musts for any party food. Serve them and you'll have happy guests.

David Tanis was of this mindset when he created a variety of different sandwiches for his City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. His inspiration was the famed Nora Charles, Dashiell Hammett's heroine, portrayed by the great Myrna Loy. Nora and her husband, Nick, played by William Powell solve crimes in the glamourous Art Deco Thirties. During one wild Christmas party  she calls room service to order up a whole flock of sandwiches. This can work today. Mr. Tanis offers a whole flock of tasty ones that will suit everyone's tastes. They're tiny bites of flavor that can be prepared throughout the evening. The ingredients are interesting and guests as well as hosts will feel satisfied after three. It's also prudent, especially if you intend to also serve buzzy drinks and punches. Imbibing on a full stomach will cut down the threat of them getting buzzed or sick too quickly .Another plus, guests can bring home extra sandwiches or they can be served the next day for lunch (although there may not be any left). Just remember the bread is the most important part. Get Pullman or rye loaves. Challah and sourdough boules work too as do good brioche buns. If you can't get these, fall back on King's Hawaiian rolls that work for a vast variety of sandwich bases.

Of course there is the traditional sandwich. Mr. Tanis pairs steak with peppery watercress and jalapeno. on small whole wheat or brioche buns To moisten it try sweet butter (French and unsweetened) and sour cream. He also makes an egg salad without mayo! How does he do it? With olive oil combined with good green Spanish olives, scallions and celery. To give the mix more color  there's red pepper and parsley for a Christmas-y vibe. It's served on sliced, buttered challah bread (you could toast it if you want) and arugula. Anchovy can be added as can capers. There's a riff on the classic date and nut bread with cream cheese. The dates this time are in the cream cheese mixed with a little lime juice. Mr. Tanis recommends using soft juicy dates and natural cream cheese (which you can find at Wegman's). If you can find the last , then sub in ricotta cheese. Crispy salted rosemary herbed pecans are sprinkled on top to offset the sweetness. There is also my favorite croque monsiuer which is spiked with Dijon mustard. You have the choice of using Emmanthal, Gouda or Monterey Jack. Mr. Tanis tops it with a bechamel sauce but you can omit this if you want. These are also baked  which is traditional and served warm. If they do get cold, a quick heat in the oven will revive them.

As Nora Charles would say, have a flock of sandwiches at your holiday party. A small plate of different ones will make any guest happy. They're fun and festive , but best of all filling. Just make sure your Asta* doesn't steal a few.

 * Asta was the Charles' faithful terrier in "The Thin Man" series.

A Spring-y Take On Pasta

This is the time of early harvests. One of those is peas. Their , fresh, green flavor is a harbinger
 of the bounties to come. They are good on their own. Paired with pasta,they become almost magical, bursting with a sweet earthiness.

David Tanis knows this and wrote about the pairing in his column A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section,.Right now peas in pods are finally making an appearance in farmer's markets, here on the East Coast. (the West Coast have been enjoying them for the past few weeks). Peas have always gone well with pasta.They add color and zing to a cream sauce, while giving it a fresh, garden-y taste. The addition of pancetta gives Mr. Tanis'  sauce a salty smokiness, another perfect foil  that adds an interesting note.Pancetta , especially the unsmoked kind should be found at your local grocery but if you can't then just add in regular smoked bacon. Pancetta is usually sold in cubes or lardons and Mr. Tanis recommends simmering them in water for a minute or two. Doing this tomes down the smokiness and renders the fat. He also adds mustard green which were also found at his outdoor market. as for the pasta, any would do but papperdelle is the best. The sauce clings to the ribbon like pasta Either buy it fresh made or the imported dried version in boxes. if you're
adventurous enough, use your pasta maker and create those silky ribbons.

Making the sauce is easy.Everything is cooked in one skillet and afterwards the pasta is added to it.
The sauce  is bursting with not just the peas but also with the flavors of fresh basil,mint and parsley leaves. These three have to be put in either a mortar or mini food processor and mashed into a coarse pesto like paste. Mr. Tanis also adds green garlic shoots , also found in farmer's markets right now. Both the green and white parts should be used and finely chopped. As for the peas , four cups should do it. They and the garlic shoots are added to olive oil and should be sizzled but without turning brown. The pancetta is then tossed in   along with half a cup of water. Add the mustard greens
, then the herb paste along with a cup of fresh ricotta and the zest of one lemon. Boil the pasta, drain
mix into the sauce.. Transfer to a platter or individual bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan.If you want to change it up, use fettucini or tagliatelli.instead of the papperdelle.

Take advantage of the harvest that come with Spring. Right now it's peas. Try them in a creamy sauce that pair well with robust pastas.

The New Must Have - The Quarter Sheet Pan

Sheet pans are now  must have items.They're used for cooking whole dinners which unfortunately means overcooked meat or sides. However a smaller version is out , the quarter pan, and it's making waves in the home cooking society.

Melissa Clark wrote about them along with giving some good recipes in today's New York Times Food section.A sheet pan is ubiquitous kitchen necessity these days. Many home chefs swear by it , loving the fact they can cook any meat and veggies together. There's a problem with that. The meat , especially if it's a roast can take longer. Veggies then burn or dry out which ruins the meal. An easier solution would be having two separate pans in which the foods can cook at their different rates. Two different sheet pans means also taking one out when it's done and turning up the oven temp for the other , without worrying about over cooking. Also meat fat won't run onto the vegetables, making them safe for vegans and vegetariansThey're basically a thin but sturdy tray about 9 by 12 inches as opposed to the full sheet pan's 13 by 18 inches. Four can fit comfortable in any oven as well as the dishwasher. Another plus is they're only ten dollars so buy a couple and if you're worried about them not fitting, they're stackable. Again, they'll come in handy for the holidays when they're doing double duty as cookie sheets.

Ms. Clark gives two very tasty recipes. One is cumin roasted pork chops and Brussels sprouts. The chops are smeared/rubbed with a fiery sweet mix of cumin,brown sugar , black pepper and red pepper flakes. It should then sit for at least twenty minutes and then refrigerated up until overnight. The Brussels sprouts only have to be tossed with sage along with extra virgin olive oil with just salt and pepper. The other recipe is sausage with broccoli accompanied by homemade tomato sauce and ricotta. This is a little more labor intensive because you have to make the sauce on the stovetop. The meat and broccoli are cooked in a 450 degree Farenheit oven. The sausage should be laid out on the pan after its' been pricked with a fork (use the sweet or hot Italian kind). The broccoli is tossed with red pepper flakes for heat and bite along with olive oil. Flip the sausages and remove the broccoli after fifteen minutes of cooking. The broccoli is then tossed with sliced garlic. Return them to the oven for five minutes until the sausages and broccoli are browned and the second is tender. Serve with ricotta and tomato sauce. Ms. Clark recommends serving with a crusty Italian bread to sop up the sauces.

Sheet pan dinners are the recipe of choice nowadays. Make it easier by using two quarter sheet pans. It gives  a tasty full cooked meal with two perfectly cooks dishes.

Sheet Pan Dinners With A Twist

One of the latest trends in home cooking right now is sheet pan meals. These are an easy cook and mix of the main meal and sides. Now there's another layer added to this - pasta. It gives a new texture and taste to a popular dish.

Melissa Clark decided to tackle this and write about it in her A Good Appetite column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Any sheet pan meal is an easy make.It's just spreading out your desired ingredients on a baking sheet that's usually reserved for cookies and square  pizzas. She makes a roasted broccoli pasta. This is unusual in the sense that the main ingredient isn't a meat such as chicken or pork but pasta. Ms. Clark uses chiocciole , a  macaroni shaped kind, however, home chefs can also use fusilli or ziti.Using pasta does require the extra step of boiling it, but then it's really no different than boiling the wide noodles for lasagna. Vegetables are a must for any sheet pan meal. Broccoli is used because it roasts well,,with the florets becoming crispy. That and the pasta, which will become crisp too will pair nicely with the addition of fresh ricotta.The cheese will burnish and caramelize.Ms. Clark also adds a good sprinkling of Parmesan spiked breadcrumbs and lemon zest for more zing.

Even novice home chefs can create this tasty dish, perfect for a weekday dinner or weekend lunch.It does start off with a very hot oven. Ms. Clark recommends a 425 degree Farenheit oven Use a rimmed baking sheet. The broccoli is tossed with olive oil along with red pepper flakes, a pinch of sea salt  and cumin for flavor( you can swap out the pepper if it proves to be too spicy). Roast until tender and brown between eighteen and twenty-five minutes. Toss halfway through to make sure that all the florets are evenly cooked. The sheet pan is removed from the oven and it's time to turn on the broiler. At this point, the pasta should be boiled and then drained.It's also at this time that the
 breadcrumbs have to be spiced. Ms. Clark uses panko bread crumbs but I don't see why regular or homemade ones can 't be used. Toss the breadcrumbs with the grated Parmesan,  lemon zest and salt and pepper. The pasta and broccoli are then tossed together on the pan then dollops of  the ricotta is added..It's then sprinkled with the breadcrumbs , along with getting a generous drizzle of olive oil. Broil for about two to three minutes or until browned and crisped. It's served with a squirt of lemon juice. Other veggies such as cauliflower and eggplant can be subbed in for the broccoli  while Camembert can be used for the ricotta.

A sheet pan meal is an easy meal. Add pasta to make it special and tastier. It's a nice spin on a new trend.

The Perfect Summer Dessert

Summer brings about a desire for light, airy desserts.They usually involve cream and the fruit harvest of the season.Imagine a sugary , dense Sicilian cassata  , usually a cold weather cake transformed into one perfect for a warm weather party.

David Tanis did just that and wrote about it in his column, A City Kitchen, in yesterday's New York Times Food section Cassata is a passed down kind of a recipe , first originating in Arab ruled Sicily in the late 1100's. It is usually a heavy affair , made with layers of ricotta cheese  plus chocolate or vanilla filling.It's covered with a shell of almond marzipan and elaborately decorated. Most Sicilian bakers also soak the cake  layers in rum or liqueur It's not what many would think of a dessert for a sweltering late June dessert. Mr Tanis lightens it up considerably.The only part kept is the sponge cake for the layers. Gone is the cloying , sugary icing along with the rococo decorations. The filling is only ricotta while for the liqueur use  either the eye opening grappa or vodka . Fresh fruit is used instead of the usual candied ones, so it has the feel of an elaborate shortcake. Home bakers should not be put off by this recipe as they would be by the original. It' 's pretty easy to create and assemble. They can also put their own spin on the recipe. Mr. Tanis uses strawberries but recommends also trying peaches, mangoes and nectarines.If they want , they could even sub in the less sweeter blackberries and raspberries, also in season right now.

What makes cassata so unique is the ricotta. It should be the freshest and the tastiest. Most good cheese stores or salumerias, Italian delis, should have it.It must be  moist , without any sourness.Taste it if you can before buying.The texture should be smooth  not grainy. Mr. Tanis suggests sampling  several kinds to understand the broad ranges of them. As for the soaking the layers, home bakers can play around with the syrup.If the grappa is too intense (and it might be to those who aren't used to its' strong flavor), try light rum or better yet limoncello, the tart Italian liqueur. For a non alcoholic one, sub in a honey syrup, perhaps a floral infused one.Orange liqueur can also be great in soaking the cake layers. One of the best things about cassata is that the cake layers can be made a day ahead. They are a classic sponge made with six eggs. flavored with true Sicilian flavors, almond and lemon. Bake it the day before serving because it will be easier to slice into layers at a day old. The ideal time to assemble a cassata is in the morning so that the flavors will meld . Paint the layers first with the liqueur infused lemon syrup then spread the layers with the ricotta.Settle it in the fridge for the afternoon, or  the entire day if you have time.Add the strawberries or any other fruit on top just before serving. the berries can be tossed in sugar and lemon before or just dusted with confectioner's sugar.

A toned down cassata is the perfect cake for summer. Add some fresh strawberries along with grappa  or vodka for zing. It's a nice treat on a sultry night,

Making Your Pasta Blush

Homemade pasta is exciting on its own. It's fun to make and a treat to taste. Now imagine adding color and more depth to it and you have a truly interesting dish.It's easy to do  - and brings lunch or dinner up another notch.

David Tanis experimented this and wrote about it in his  A City Kitchen column in today's New York Times Food section.Handmade or home made pasta is one of the simplest preps ever.It's just a mix of eggs and flour, mixed together and then kneaded to form a thick dough. It's usually then rolled out and cut or put through a pasta machine to be cut into ribbons or sheets.The result is a yellowy spaghetti or fettucini ,a perfect base for a homemade marinara or creamy Alfredo sauce. Yet is it enough? Does it need more?Mr.Tanis believes so and has a number of suggestions. A colored pasta not only zings up the dish but adds another layer of flavor. Green pasta can be made with pureeing fresh spinach or chard to the recipe. It gives the usually eggy tasting dough a garden fresh taste. Herbs, always included in any Italian dish, can be respun into a batch of angel hair .Add parsley , rosemary and sage to any dough for a speckled , light green result  that's perfect for any Spring dinner.Saffron not only gives a rich , golden hue but also a distinct flavor that 's great with any seafood sauce.

The recipe that Mr/ Tanis gives is for a peppery, red pasta, redolent with Hungarian paprika.cayenne and pimenten.It's a rusty looking pasta that he teams up with sweet vegetables. The reason behind this combo is that the two opposite flavors compliment each other,All together there is a heady dose of hot spices in the dough.It's zingy enough  so it needs a mellowness to tame it down a bit. Mr. Tanis pairs it with butternut squash along with pancetta for some meat and saltiness. Ricotta gives the sauce  a creaminess. This could also be reversed and made into a ravioli with the squash mixture inside a hot pepper dough.Another idea is serving it with an arrabiata sauce for sheer heat or with lobster for a spin on seafood version. Today's masterful recipe could also be reversed with a butternut squash pasta and a spicy sauce.It's just as easy to make as the hot pasta, and the result is a lovely orange fettucini or bucatini,if you like red colored pasta without the heat , then try a tomato based  or red pepper based one. The first requires two tablespoons of tomato sauce added while the second just needs a small unseeded pepper. For a scarlet pasta, try adding half a cup of cooked beets.


Pasta doesn't doesn't have to be bland both in taste and in flavor. Whip up a batch of spicy red or Springy green for a different spin on a classic dish.It's fun and colorful.

Ricotta in The Summer

Ricotta is always associated with the winter dishes from dense lasagnas and manicotti to heavy cheesecakes. However ,it can also be used in very light and airy summer dishes too from simple pasta dishes to desserts. It's a great addition to a warm weather diet.

David Tanis knows this and wrote about it in his A City Kitchen Column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He was also lucky to visit a sheep dairy on a recent trip to Sicily. Twice daily about five hundred sheep are milked which produces a normal one hundred gallons of milk into a large vat. After the cheese curds are ready and scooped into molds, the remaining whey , a thin watery looking liquid - is then poured into a huge kettle. It then takes an old school method, namely a wood fire to cook it. When the whey reaches the right temperature ricotta is formed , floating to the surface. This earns its' name ricotta or twice cooked This is not the usual stuff that supermarkets sell,this is the gourmet version. According to Mr. Tanis, sheep ricotta, like Greek yogurt is much lighter and also less in calories. Cheese shops and Italian import stores sell it. it has to be bought when fresh and only has a two day shelf life. You can use cow's milk ricotta but again, get  the artisanal kind, not the mass produced version.

Ricotta can be turned into both savory and sweet dishes. Mr. Tanis suggests using it for the traditional lasagna and ravioli but also as an ingredient for gnocchi.It is best in a light pasta dish. This is his recipe : Use any pasta  and while it is boiling,  soften a diced onion in olive oil.  Add chopped zucchini (or peas, or split cherry tomatoes) and let it soften as well. When the pasta is al dente, it joins the zucchini in the pan, followed by a good dollop of ricotta and a splash of the pasta’s cooking water. The ricotta melts to a creamy blanket  and a handful of grated pecorino or Parmesan brings it all together. A touch of lemon zest and a spoonful of basil pesto can also be tossed in for zing and color but that's up to you. A summery dessert is taking the same ricotta and mixing it with the berries of the season, blueberries, raspberries and strawberries, along with three to four tablespoons of honey. Add a small splash of vanilla and lemon for more flavor. It can also be made into a creamy gelato as well and a different variation on ice pops.

Ricotta is not that heavy winter ingredient. It can be light and fresh and used in a variety of warm weather dishes. Try it in a summery pasta or dessert and taste its' delicate flavor.

Summer Hits The Food Section

Summertime and the living is easy The same with eating and drinking. It's a season of simplicity , with dishes that take seconds to make up and libations that are also a snap to mix. This was the main theme of today's New York Times Food section. All the columns, from a City Kitchen to The Pour reflect the lazy hazy days ahead.

Salads are a big summer recipe however Julia Moskin reconfigures it as something quite different.Instead of lettuce being torn to shreds and other veggies broken into pieces they are elegantly presented  as whole or larger pieces. This is similar to Italian antipasti where the veggies are served lightly dressed. Cold cuts and sliced meats are also added .Unlike antipasti though fruits are added. Put in figs, melons, mangos and cantaloupes to counter the savory  flavors of olives and grilled eggplants and zucchini.Ms. Moskin also suggests serving it with grilled garlic bread.which is the perfect accompaniment to this type of dish.Sam Sifton contributes a French summer classic beurre homard, lobster butter He takes lobster shells and cooks them with a stick of butter. This infuses the butter with the seafood's rich , silky flavor . It can be then used as a sauce for shrimp, more lobster or a truly decadent pasta co burro. There are also recipes for compound butter which has herb leaves and  champagne along with shallots and lemon or lime juice. The butter is not melted in this case, instead the other additions are blended in , using a fork.. Mr. Sifton also includes recipes for those summer classics marinade and rub, perfect for spedie. or kabobs.Melissa Clark contributes potato salad recipes with made with  different ingredients  from lemon and mint to kimchi.

Of course no summer meal is complete without dessert and drinks.Food regular contributor, Kim Severson includes two recipes,one is the classic fudgsicle.This was a hard one for her, however after some tinkering the pops turned out better than the kind bought from the ice cream truck,, She uses both good quality chocolate and cocoa powder. Whole cream is added for density and lushness. The secret to a good homemade popsicle is emulsion, a perfect blend of the chocolate and the boiled milk,cream nd sugar mixture. It can be poured into Dixie  cups for a homey nostalgic feel or cute silicon molds. Her second recipe is for shrub a curious drink from 18th Century England. It's a tart fruity drink made with vinegar(!) and different fruit. YOu can add tonic or seltzer for bubble and fizz. Shrubs are also a good way to get rid of bruised or old fruit too. It would pair well with the second summer dessert recipe,Melissa Clark's ricotta tart. This makes for a crisp and creamy base for the season;s fruit harvests.The cuust is like an crunchy almond laced shortbread while the filling is a satiny light tasting custard, flavored with honey and cinnamon.It is good on it';s own but great with a topping of fresh peaches, berries or cherries.

Summer is upon us and with it , some tasty foods and drink.Try these dishes to liven up a lazy Sunday barbecue or weeknight dinner. Enjoy them under a sultry summer sun or warm starry evening.

Crepes Celeste A Taste Of France

Food court food is just that , your usual mix of tacos, burgers and pizza.If you're lucky there is more exotic fare like teriyaki or spaghetti. Luckily there's an upstart in the group, Crepes Celeste. It a breath of fresh French air for the palate.

Crepes Celeste brings French crepes to the masses.Forty years ago most malls and downtowns had A Magic Pan Restaurant This chain was great. They offered all sorts of lunch, dinner and dessert crepes. along with Salad Nicoise. They continued until 2005 when they were bought out by a company called Lettuce Entertain You,,They disappeared  and anything even vaguely Gallic disapeared from the landscape. Crepes, both savory and sweet were now hard to find. Luckily Celeste's came in and brought two favorites, crepes and macarons. The creators combined American flavors with artisanal French city and country cooking,For crepe lovers this is a dream come true. There are fresh veggies that can be combined with meats and cheeses.Celeste's even offers a breakfast crepe that you can order at any time.There are also turkey crepes as well along with one based on a roast beef sandwich.There is even one with a Mexican twist to it and one with pesto. The sweet crepes feature the classic Parisian street crepe with sugar and butter topped with a squeeze of lemon.There is also a clever Gallic homage to  s'mores, full of marshmallows, dark chocolate and Graham cracker crumbs.

I have tried both their ham and cheese along with the vegetable one. Both have made me their number one fan. The crepes are made fresh, right in front of the diner, They are the traditional  crepes of Brittany in northwestern France where the dish orginated. They are the perfect bed for the ingredients.I tried their ham and cheese, good and the vegetarian even better. I love this last. A smear of creamy ricotta is slathered on the crepe , then fresh sauted  veggies, such as eggplant, onions and tomatoes isthen laid on top. The crepe is then deftly folded into thirds so that the filling is safely tucked inside. A decorative blob of more ricotta is put on top (the ham had a curl of extra ham on it) with a squiggle of cooked pepper. The flavors are so perfect together, the cheese's creaminess mixes with the tang of all the veggies cooked together. The accompanying slad of just romaine and shredded carrot was also perfect, especially with the sublime French dressing. This week I am adding one of the dessert crepes for dessert.

Celeste Crepes brings back the return of Gallic fare to the malls .It is a breath of l'air fraiche to a landscape  full of burgers and tacos. Try one and enjoy the sophisticated simplicity of it

A Taste Of Ziti

Almost every American kid with even a drop of Southern Italian blood will say baked ziti is their favorite dish.As they grow older this dish ,becomes their favorite comfort food and no wonder.It is a tasty Mix of pasta ,sauce and cheese,baked to crunchy goodness.It's a great dish to make anytime. Ziti is a penne type of pasta originating in Calabria in the far south of the Italian boot.It is one of the traditional pasta al forgo or baked pasta.Oven baked pasta dates back to both the Middle Ages and the Renaissance where it was served at noblemen's banquets.The idea caught on throughout the South.Ziti and its'cousins, lasagna, cannelloni and manicotti are still popular in Sicily along with the areas around Naples, Amalfi and Salerno.Ziti recipes vary from family to family and there really isn't a definitive recipe.Most baked pasta dishes actually start with leftovers so one recipe may call for chopped meat while another has two or three cheeses layered in.In a way it's like the American baked Mac and cheese.Everyone has their own spin on it and every variation is always the right one. Making baked ziti is easy .The standard recipe calls for ziti, tomato sauce along with ground beef and a mix of different cheeses from Provolone to mozzarella and Parmesan.It's a bit labor intensive but the steps are easy.Boil the ziti first and while doing this, brown the beef along with an onion .Add the sauce.Then it's just a matter of layering the pasta ,cheeses and meats and baking for a half hour.The good thing about this dish is that it can be varied.Many use just ricotta as the cheesevalone to give the dish a creamy ,richer texture along with adding a top layer of mozzarella for more gooiness.Spicy Italian sausage can replace the ground chuck too for heat and bite.For a lighter fare try adding chicken.It will give the ziti a less heavier taste.Any dish can also be made more healthier with omitting the meat ,and subbing in veggies such as button mushrooms, zucchini and onion.You can add a lighter ricotta too and use whole-wheat penne instead. Nothing beats baked ziti for dinner.It's Southern Italian comfort food at it's best.This baked dish is classic that will satisfy any kid ,big or small.

Polenta A Winter Favorite

Polenta is one of those dishes that signifies winter. It can accompany any main dish from chicken cacciatore to a good hunter's gravy filled with pork bits. One of the best aspects of it is that it's super easy to make  and like a fashion basic can go with anything. It's also versatile, going from steamed to grilled, the perfect all around ingredient.

This Northern Italian staple was the star of an article in yesterday's New York Times Dining section A City Kitchen. Dave Tanis, the column's author really wrote a valentine to this simple dish made only from ground corn mush. He gives really good advice (that I ,even growing up with it, didn;t even know)>Polenta comes in three types of fineness. course, medium and fine. Also the longer you cook it the better tasting it will be. The mush becomes too bitter of you take it away from the flame too early on. The longer in the pot th sweeter it will be because the cornmeal swells and basically burst with flavor.

Mr. Tanis gives some pretty good recipes aw well. He grills the polenta into squares and serves it with tomatoes and eggs. The last is classic Piedmontese, adding the polenta gives ti a new twist. He also stuffs it with spinach along with ricotta and fontina, letting the mash  have a crunchy top. For me the best is either stuffed in Savoy cabbage, popular in northwestern Torino where my great grandfather came from or reheated and served as a base with sunny side up eggs. This last is a great way of using leftover polenta (along with the heavenly taste of egg yolk mixing with the corn flavor)

Polenta is a great winter dish anyone can make. Try it a variety of different way to discovers it's creamy texture and taste. Once you;re hooked, that's it. You're a polenta affectionado for life.

Baked Pastas Winter Comforters

Cold weather calls for hearty pasta dishes. The problem is that now that  it's February , everyone is kind of tired of th e usual spaghetti or fettucine. Ravioli doesn't cut it anymore either.It's time to step it  up a bit with baked pasta. This is just as fillingand delicous as the boiled but with added texture and flavor.

The most popular and well known baked pasta dish is lasagna. Every southern italain has their own family recipe handed doen for genrations. A true lasagna is made with not a pure tomato sauce but a bechamel one with butter and cream Tomato is added later for flavor and color. It is made usually with chopped beef and spinach along with the creamy ricotta cheese. This last is used a a binder.The dish is then layered with boiled lasagna noodles or sheets and baked.Lasagna can have variations. It can be made with a combo of beef and pork or strictly vegetarian. This  last  can have layers of zucchini and eggplant  interspersed with the noodles and cheese.

Manicotti is another baked pasta that's perfect for a winter's dinner. These are giant shells (not to be confused with lumarche - the snail shaped pasta from Italy) that are filled with a mix of ricotta  and again ,spinach. Chopped onion is also thrown in to give it more dash.For another variation, nix the  spinach and add chopped Italian sausage and herbs such as rosemary and oregano.  For a less troublesome pasta dish consider baked ziti, . This is layered tubular pasta , combined with ground beef  and a mix of beaten egg and ricotta altough some recipes call for sour cream instead. It is then topped with spaghetti sauce and grated Parmesan  cheese before baking for 45 minutes . Ziti is a great covered dish to bring to anyone's house or to a church supper.

Winter calls for hearty pasta dishes. Instead of making the traditional boiled,  take it a step further. Bake a pasta dish that's not only nutritious but satisfying and warm.

St Joseph's Day Treats

Today is Saint Joseph's Day a day when sweets abound. Most countries celebrate the day with meals alongwith lush pastries. In Italy ,March 19th is considered Father's Day as well. For the Southern Italians it's a time to enjoy zeppoli and sfingi, cream filled pastries that are just sinfully delicious.

The zeppolis made for this holy day are different than th e ones you get at street fairs. They may have th e same dough however the St Joseph's Day ones are filled with ricotta filling. This is usally reserved for the crunchy tubes of fried dough called cannoli. It's a mix of ricotta cheese, powdered sugar ,a dash of orange and chocolate chips. It makes for a very smooth, almost icing like pudding that can be scooped or piped into the zeppoli shells. These resemble cream puffs as opposed to the usall pillow puffs. Sfinge is the same except that the filling has vanilla as opposed to citrus in the recipe

If you're thinking of making these you can vary the cream. Instead of using ricotta you can try a homemade pudding recipe that is a bit thicker and creamier than th e ricotta one. It works well with almost a yolk based custard. Also you can vary the shell. by using a lighter , crispier cream puff recipe. These won't get as soggy as the regular pastry ones that tend to absorb the filling's moisture. Most of the St Joseph's Day pastries have cherries on top. You can customize your own with a lemon or orange zest or just powdered sugar.

St. Joseph's Day is a time for celebration and honor. Celebrate the day with family and these great pastries. They are lush and delicious, perfect for his holiday