It is a rarity to get cultured butter in the US,even rarer from a small privately owned creamery. Yet there is one where both home and professional chefs can find it. best of all it will be around for a long time.
Creator of the popular new York Times Food section column " A Good Appetite,"Melissa Clark wrote about Animal Farm Creamery in yesterday's section.The dairy farm has recently undergone new ownership since original owner Diane St Clair, sold it back in February. She herded her group of well loved cows into a trailer and drove them from their first location in Orwell, Vermont to the Rolling Bale Farm in Shoreham Vermont located on the southernmost shores of Lake Champlain. Ms. St Clair had made a name for herself, supplying cultured butter to such restaurants as French Laundry and Per Se. it costs a whopping $60 a pound!!! Despite the butter being the most sought after in the country Ms. St. Clair was ready for retirement. At sixty-five she wanted something different, hence the reason for starting her own perfume company St. Clair Scents/ Yet her beloved bovines were still very important to her. These were the cows that create that fantastic butter with names like Diva and Cinnamon. Enter Ben and Hillary Haigh who enthusiastically bought the business, with the promise of tendler loving care for the animals.
Will the Haighs continue the cultured butter? Yes.It's rare to get it here in the States.Culturing is standard in Europe where it produces premium butter.It's the process of adding bacterial cultures to cream and then left to ferment. The process is not unlike grapes fermenting into wine. Culturing gives the final product a fluffier texture and a tangier flavor It's usually salted. (Keep in mind you can make it at home too).It was a standard in US homes until the arrival of pasteurized butter where there was widespread industrialization. That butter, the ones used every day, are pale in color and blandly sweet in taste.Ms. St Clair wanted to make a change in the industry, creating small batches that were sent to chefs like Thomas Keller , owner of French Laundry, He fell in love with it and ordered as much as he could. It was then she bought the small dairy, bought a few more cows and produced one hundred (!) pounds of butter a week. There was also byproduct of buttermilk too.As a plus to the piece, Ms Clark includes recipe for a Green Goddess salad with a fresh buttermilk dressing and almond butter cookies with a buttery sweet glaze.
Rolling Bales Farms will continue the tradition of making cultured butter. It is a treat to have, even better to add to all sorts of recipes.As long as their are dedicated dairy farmers , there will be this creamy bar of goodness.
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