Thursday, September 24, 2020

The Bagel Lady

 There's nothing like New York bagels. They're a combination of chewiness and taste, sweet and savory. Many get the bagel bug , wanting to recreate this  in such far from Manhattan as possible places. Yet how can they, without the the right recipe and advice? Enter Beth George - the Bagel Lady. She has helped several bagel shops around the world get started, and helped make this quintessential NY delight global.

Alan Neuhauser,a freelance contributor wrote this interesting piece about Ms. George and her business partner, Frank Mauro , in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Ms. George who is officially a lawyer started out in the bagel industry in 2013. It began as simply a hobby and also for her son who had a sensitivity to gluten. She created all sorts of spelt breads, that became popular with family and friends. Soon she was selling them to Whole Foods after starting her bread company , Spelt Right. She needed equipment to help with the high demand so she got in touch with Mr. Mauro, head of regional sales at Excalibur Bagel and Bread Equipment. He was skeptical. Spelt dough can be temperamental. It can be too gooey or dry for the contraption known as "the bagel machine". This is a Rube Goldberg like type with a rotating metal cog and a gliding conveyor belt. He told her it wasn't going to work with her recipe but she could give it a try. She drive from her place in Maine where she was at the time to Paramus ,New Jersey to see for herself. That night she had the machine on the back of her pick up truck. Her company went bust thanks to the spike in spelt prices but Ms. George and Mr. Mauro remained connected. He realized he needed someone to show new bagel machine. That person was Ms. George who is now in Nearby Fair Lawn, new Jersey.

Ms. George has helped bagel shop owners as far as as India and Australia. She offered valuable advice to Spurthy Akshar, a young lawyer from Bangalore who wanted to open a New York type bagel shop in her town. She will put her own twist on it by offering spreads made from paneers and local vegetables. Then there are Eddy Tice and his partner, Ania Kutek who own NYC Bagel Deli in Brisbane. They , too, had lessons with Ms, George but unfortunately their landlord forced them to open shop earlier than expected in the new food hall where they were located.The staff hadn't been trained enough which meant burned bagels sticking to the machine. Luckily that's all turned around four years later with a new cafe called Superthing. Bagel love also hit the streets of Paris, where, despite all their expertise with such intricate breads like croissants and brioches, , French bakers flopped at bagel making. Again Ms. George came to the rescue, flying to the City of Light to help. Bagel making classes last four days and are eight hours each day.  Students learn how a handful of dough stretched into a thin unbroken windowpane can reveal if it's oven ready and how barley malt brushed on bagel tops can turn them into golden rings once baked. She does talk to students about the cost of opening up a shop  as well. It isn't cheap, starting at $225,000. Usually most people go in as partners, whether husband or wife or friends .

New York style bagels are becoming a global staple thanks to Ms. George. She is invaluable to those wanting to learn how to make this classic roll. It's not easy but she can show how to make it as simple as a toasted bagel with a schmear of cream cheese.