White Asparagus A Different Spring Treat

Spring comes and with it asparagus season. Most Americans usually get excited over the green variety however there is also  white kind. White asparagus, overlooked here in the States, is what sets Europe on its ear. Germans and especially, the French swoon over the creamy white stalks. Like their verdant cousins, they are versatile, unlike them the blanche kind, have a more delicate flavor. It is a rare one,sweet and almost corn like in taste.

White asparagus was the subject of an article by Elaine Sciolino in today's New York Times Dining section. Ms Sciolino handles the Letters from Paris where from there she got the lucky chance of visiting an asparagus farm outside of Paris. She also had the good fortune of going with the famed French chef, Yannick Alleno. Ms.Sciolino even harvested the stalks with a special device , similar to a two prong screwdriver. White asparagus is prized by the French (they claim to have found them as early as the Renaissance) and can be cooked in the same way as green asparagus. The reason they're white is that the stalks are buried in sandy soil, thus stalling the production of chlorophyll which turns exposed stalks to that verdant emerald hue.

White asparagus has a delicate flavor , sweeter than what we're used to eating. Some French chefs servethe stalks with poached eggs which is a great pairing (it's always recommended with green asparagus too). Since the flavor has a fragility ,they can easily be served with stronger ones such as crab.Raw asparagus can be made into a salad as Ms. Sciolino witnessed when she returned to the City of Light. Her chef shredded them table side until the stalks were as thin as angel hair pasta and then dressed then with a peppery Ligurian olive oil. This can be tried here, thanks to markets such as Fairway selling the ivory stalks.Ms. Sciolino also has a cashew cream recipe for them, which she also tried at the very same restaurant..This is made with the nuts butter, olive  oil and milk and then poured on the boiled stalks.

White asparagus is a real and different Spring treat. It's more delicate yet just as versatile as its' green cousins. Try it either stuffed or with sauces for a something that 's both gourmet and every day.