Keeping Italian Traditions

Even traditional Italian food is under the threat of extinction.Younger generations are following trendy food shows and neglecting their family and regional dishes,However thanks to an unlikely savior piatti classic won"t disappear all that soon. Rachel Donadio interviewed this angel of sorts in today's Dining section in today's Wednesday's New York Times.The angel is Daniele DiMichaele who's more in his element deejaying.However he is one of Italy's most fervent food activists.He's concerned that Italy is losing its'culinary heritage thanks to a multitude of factor such as EU or European Union has certain regulations along with the proliferation of processed foods.Also there is the Influence of flashy American influenced cooking shows. he is doing his best to make sure Italians don't forget centuries old dishes. Signore DiMIchaele is encouraging people to send in their recipes to his blog.It's being sponsored by the Bologna Food Association,Artusi, named after Pellegrino Artusi ,the author of Italy's first cookbook. Ms. Donadio went with this DJ who has provided music for some of Europe's and New York City's Ballroom , to the beautiful Amalfi Coast.There they sat down with sausage makers about making traditional hot pepper encrusted sausages.The DJ is from Otranto himself, an area rich in seafood and good recipes .It's also a region that prides itself on handing down dishes through the centuries.The sausage recipe is an artesenal one, not mass produced in a factory but hung to dry, placed outside the kitchen where it was mixed.This is what Italian cooking is about.He is interested in food"s history ,where did it come from ,how was it invented, why did the original cooks choose the ingredients at they did.This curiosity sort of stemmed from his interest in Carlo Petroni's Slow Food Movement of the1980.s Where as Mr Pertroni was interested in excellence, he was more concerned with a dish"s story. Italian cooking has been around since ancient times.Thanks to Daniele DiMichaele, those same dishes will be around and made for years to come.These are the recipes that made Italian food great and he will see that they will continue to do so.

Stews With Veggie Boost

Chilly days call for stews. Yet many would forgo this perfect dish despite the fact that it is both warming and nutritious.Why? Because it's usually weighed down by over cooked ,well stewed meat .There is a solution.Let the veggies used shine.It creates a better and healthier version. Mark Bittman of The New York Times Dining section wrote about this in his Flexitarian column yesterday. Although not quite a vegetarian dish , the amount of meat used is greatly reduced. It makes for a better dinner with a fresher , less fattier flavor.Another plus is that semi meatless stews are also less expensive to make.You can also match the amount of meat with beans which are another good source of protein.Also to make up for the flavor think about adding more herbs and spices too.They'll add zing to another usually bland or sometimes tasteless stew.If you still want either a chicken or beefy flavor, then create the base with bouillon cubes and water. Mr. Bittman offers up three good and completely different recipes. There's a gingery chicken stew where the star is - is, what else, Ginger.He uses one chicken thigh per person, really enough for a dinner along with radishes, and golden winter squash for color.There is also lime and soy added,creating enough of a flavor burst that eclipses the lack of any more chicken.Ribollita is another vegetable heavy melange.Traditional ones require prosciutto and you can add it if you want, however try it with cannelloni beans along with kale for both vitamins and proteins.Mr.Bittman throws in a fish stew , but it's not a seafood heavy bouillabaisse.His requires only equal amounts of squid and shrimp with a few anchovy filets thrown in for brine.Yet these aren't the stars though.It's the chickpeas ,spinach and tomato that are the heavy hitters.Olives are also added for more body and flavor. Make a meat light stew for a new take on an old classic.It's a great way of livening up a usually blaNd dish.Let the veggies shine here , and so will the meal.

The NY Times Second Thanksgiving Issue

The New York Times Wednesday Dining section has put out a second week of holiday tips and recipes.While last week was devoted to more traditional recipes, this week's has a personal and international flavor. what's great is that there are some recipes for the day after as well.After all Thanksgiving may just be for one day but the leftovers are for a few. There are some really good ideas in this issue.Surprisingly there is pastrami thrown into the mix.True, this is not a traditional but just as delicious as any wing or leg.Danny Bowen of Mission Chinese Food gives it anAsian zing.He adds Asian fish sauce to the traditional corned beef that is used.A pickled mustard condiment that has a whole cornucopia of veggies along with chilis . it would make for a nice supper when watching those games afterwards.There is also potato nik ,contributed by Mark Bittman.This is a kind of giant latke(perfect for Hanukkah which also shares the holiday spotlight).It's made more like a corn bread and a wedge would go well with some gravy and turkey slices.For those leftovers ,try WD-50's chef Wylie DuFresnes's turkey hash.This is a mix of leftover bird with potatoes and onion .Chef DuFresne suggests eggs sunny side up but is also a good pairing with scrambled ones too. More traditional yet some what sophisticated fare is also represented too. There is a French pumpkin soup by famed Lutece chef ,Andre Soltner.This is a better addition of pumpkin to the table than pie,in my opinion.It is a nice mix of the gourd with another autumn veggie, the turnip.White wine along with carrots and onions are also added to this cream enhanced potage.It would be best serving before the main dish and just as filling as any appetizer.Pastry chef,Claudia Fleming, of Gramercy Tavern,contributes an apple crumb crostata.This is more of a galette style dessert than traditional deep dish pie.It has a nice brown sugar and cinnamon topping.Another traditional dish is chef Suzanne Goin's turkey infused stock ,which can be made into everything from turkey chili to soup or risotto. Again ,save this week's New York Times Dining section.Try some of the rcipes tomorrow or over the weekend.All are tasty and are culinary riffs on the two holidays,Thanksgiving and Hannukah.Enjoy them .They're tasty variations to the usual fare.

Brown Bagging It

Many people still love a homemade lunch despite the proliferation of fast food joints and delis. There's something to be said about a lunch from home.It's usually healthier and definitely cheaper than anything bought from the company cafe. One of the best things about a brown bag lunch is that you can customize it to whatever you want it to be.

It was the subject of Mark Bittman's Flexitarian column in today's New York Times Wednesday Dining section. Mr. Bittman , himself, loves a good homemade lunch and offers many suggestions,He believes that a good one should be built. The ingredients should be like building block. Always have a well stocked pantry with the vitals like olive oil ,vinegar and soy sauce. It could also include tuna and sardines as well as bread. You can have grains, beans, tomato sauce , a pan of roasted veggies and possibly a roasted chicken too.These last are great to make a variety of microwavable dishes for a hot and satisfying lunch.

Mr. Bittman has also included different recipes as well along with basic key recipes and sauces. Anyone can make these. His key ones include a basic tomato sauce, roasted vegetables and a well seasoned pot of beans. These combined together would make a hearty soup or even a pasta sauce.The basic sauces include a vinaigrette  a sesame dipping sauce along with a tahini , pico di gallo and raw onion chutney.The other recipes include a  microwaved mixed rice served with the roasted veggies,'an escabeche salad made with greens , chicken or beef and a vinaigrette and lastly a  cold sesame noodles with crunchy vegetables.

A brown bag lunch can mean a fun and healthy one. Using the basics given anyone can create a hot or cold midday meal that can carry you through the afternoon. They're surprisingly simple and always delicious.

White Asparagus A Different Spring Treat

Spring comes and with it asparagus season. Most Americans usually get excited over the green variety however there is also  white kind. White asparagus, overlooked here in the States, is what sets Europe on its ear. Germans and especially, the French swoon over the creamy white stalks. Like their verdant cousins, they are versatile, unlike them the blanche kind, have a more delicate flavor. It is a rare one,sweet and almost corn like in taste.

White asparagus was the subject of an article by Elaine Sciolino in today's New York Times Dining section. Ms Sciolino handles the Letters from Paris where from there she got the lucky chance of visiting an asparagus farm outside of Paris. She also had the good fortune of going with the famed French chef, Yannick Alleno. Ms.Sciolino even harvested the stalks with a special device , similar to a two prong screwdriver. White asparagus is prized by the French (they claim to have found them as early as the Renaissance) and can be cooked in the same way as green asparagus. The reason they're white is that the stalks are buried in sandy soil, thus stalling the production of chlorophyll which turns exposed stalks to that verdant emerald hue.

White asparagus has a delicate flavor , sweeter than what we're used to eating. Some French chefs servethe stalks with poached eggs which is a great pairing (it's always recommended with green asparagus too). Since the flavor has a fragility ,they can easily be served with stronger ones such as crab.Raw asparagus can be made into a salad as Ms. Sciolino witnessed when she returned to the City of Light. Her chef shredded them table side until the stalks were as thin as angel hair pasta and then dressed then with a peppery Ligurian olive oil. This can be tried here, thanks to markets such as Fairway selling the ivory stalks.Ms. Sciolino also has a cashew cream recipe for them, which she also tried at the very same restaurant..This is made with the nuts butter, olive  oil and milk and then poured on the boiled stalks.

White asparagus is a real and different Spring treat. It's more delicate yet just as versatile as its' green cousins. Try it either stuffed or with sauces for a something that 's both gourmet and every day.

Make Your Own Mayo - Artresanal Style

Mayonnaise is one of the mainstays of summer food preparation, Unfortunately the store bought kind does nothing for sandwiches, salads and even crudites. The answer is making your own - which surprisingly easy. What's even better is that it will make any dish taste better  - and even elevate the simplest dish to gourmet quality.

Homemade mayo was the subject of an article in today's New York Times Dining section. The piece written by Melissa Clark for her The Weekly Good Appetite column, shows how to make a good mayo almost akin to the ones sold at Empire Mayonnaise , Brooklyn's first and the country's only artesanal mayo store. Mayo is easy to make.,It's basically a whisked blend of egg yolk, lemon juice,kosher salt and Dijon mustard. The most important ingredient is oil and it can be olive oil for a richer , creamier blend or safflower and canola oils for a smoother, lighter mayo. Since the mix is an emulsion it can be tricky to stir with  the oil and yolk often separating.Slowly whisk in  a few drops of water to prevent this from happening.

Homemade mayo can be varied in taste. Some home chefs add hot pepper flakes which adds zing to sandwiches and potato salads. Ms. Clark tosses in minced anchovies which imparts a deep briny. flavor. For another variation add lime instead of lemon and maybe some fresh ground pepper.She also makes one with bacon bits added which would go well with a hearty potato salad.For this last omit the mustard and throw in some chile for some fire. She also recommends switching oils such as walnut  for the safflower or canola. This would well with veggies but also giving a roast beef or London broil sandwich  extra oomph! You can also make a garlic aioli perfect for any Mediterranean or Provence themed barbecue.

Homemade mayo is the best thing to happen to summer cooking since the barbecue grill. Take the step and make it. It'll make even the most blandest salad or sandwich something special