Your Pie Guide

Fall is definitely the time for pies. Yet pie isn't just pie anymore. It's crostatas, tarts and tarltets too, Anything fruit or custard filled goes these days and what you make of them is up to you.  Pies could be for the week, save the fancier stuff for the weekend. They're all good.

Pie is more or less the most basic. You can bake a crust and fill it with anything or have the crust cook with the filling which is the better choice.  Basic pie dough  hasn't really changed since the 1500's when royal pie lover , Elizabeth I made cherry and apple pie popular. It's a mix of flour, ice water salt and shortening. This last is always the subject of controversy. Should you use straight out lard or vegetable shortening? Some home bakers insist on butter. Go with Crisco, which is basically solidified soy bean oil. It has produced flaky crusts for generations. You can go with coconut or even vegetable oil but you will not have a tender, melt in your mouth crust. Another option is bought pie crusts which simply can be popped in the freezer when you need them. Can you use pie crust for crostata? I suppose you could but keep in mind that actual recipe does have sugar and butter in it. You may have to decrease the amount of sugar used in the pie filling. Now can the pie crust do triple duty for tarts and tartlets? No. Tarts and their little ones have a crust that requires egg yolks, sugar and vanilla along with butter.  As for handheld pies, the best option is a simple pie crust. This is the sturdiest and won't open, causing a filling spill out.

Since this is the time for apples, then make an apple pie.  What are the best for filling? A good bet is Granny Smith. These bright green, tart tasting gems make the best filling and are not overly sweet.it also has a firm flesh which holds up well in baking. It also won't get mushy either. Another sturdy pome is the Winesap.It's a tart and spicy taste with  solid white flesh.  Can you use the same apples in crostatas? Not really. These open faced pastries require smaller sized apples like Galas but you could use the bigger ones if you're in a pinch. As for tarts, use the same as for the pies. Tarts are another intense bake so a good sturdy fleshed fruit is required. As for the extras, yes use the cinnamon but also have freshly ground nutmeg too. It adds more oomph to the pie. There's also brown sugar and lemon juice , the last added as a preservative. The crostata has a slightly different recipe. Some call for the addition of flour, usually a quarter of a cup. Also orange zest is used to give it some zing. As for the tarts, you can use the same filling recipe for the pie.

It's apple pie, crostata, tart and tartlet season. Make whichever appeals to you.Any one is great on a cool fall day, whether to make or to eat.

The Gloripus Galette

One of the easiest baked treats is the galette.Despite the fancy French name, it is one of the simplest pies to whip up and bake. Unlike some of it's" more complicated cousins, it can be made either savory or sweet.One week it can be made with your garden harvest, the next, with fruit from your local farmer's market.Either way you fill it it, a galette is truly special and different. Melissa Clark both explained and gave recipes for this in today's New York Times Dining section.She dedicated her weekly column, A Good Appetite to it.The galette or the Italian version, the crostata can be made by the most novice of home chefs.There's no sweating over making the perfect crust or filling.It's a very rustic form of tart and it's imperfections is what makes it so charming.As with any pie it is the crust that makes the whole dish.Ms Clark varies it for the two types however you could reinvent the recipe so that your crust is perfect for both savory and sweet.Her sweet crostata crust is rich.Think French tart instead of American pie crust.She adds a large egg, along with heavy cream and unsalted butter.There's also lemon juice and zest add to give it a nice flavor and aftertaste.For the savory sort ,she goes wholesome with rye and whole wheat flour.There is still the richness of egg butter and cream but without the sugar. One of the best things about galettes is their fillings. You can create anything you want .Ms Clark recommends using berries , stone fruits or figs.A fig filling doesn't require as much sugar because the fruits are naturally very sweet.As with any pie you can mix fillings.Try blueberries with strawberries or with cherries.Raspberry season is coming up.Think of a galette bursting with fresh picked ones.Galettes can also be filled with sliced apples and pears.A cinnamon apple galette is the perfect fall dessert, especially when served with freshly whipped cream.For any of the berries,stone fruits , such as peaches and nectarines as well as the figs, Add three to four tablespoons of cornstarch.This thickens the filling.For savory ,think tomatoes, eggplants, onions or zucchini or all together as one filling. The vegetables should be cooked before filling. Ms .Clark recommends roasting them for thirty minutes before adding to the galette.They will also cook up while baking.She recommends adding chili peppers to the semi cooked veggies to give them spice and then sprinkle the filled tart with goat cheese and thyme.You can also add meat such as ham or bacon.I would go Provencale , with tomatoes , black olives and anchovies as a filling.The web has recipes for a spinach galette.This is a versatile veggie because you can also thrown in goat cheese , bacon or mushrooms. A galette is a great way of getting into baking.It is easy to whip up and the finished product is rustic yet elegant.Make it with a savory veggie filling for a weekend supper or with fruit for a luscious dessert that's easy and quick Either way a galette is such a treat ,fun to create and fun to eat.

The NY Times Second Thanksgiving Issue

The New York Times Wednesday Dining section has put out a second week of holiday tips and recipes.While last week was devoted to more traditional recipes, this week's has a personal and international flavor. what's great is that there are some recipes for the day after as well.After all Thanksgiving may just be for one day but the leftovers are for a few. There are some really good ideas in this issue.Surprisingly there is pastrami thrown into the mix.True, this is not a traditional but just as delicious as any wing or leg.Danny Bowen of Mission Chinese Food gives it anAsian zing.He adds Asian fish sauce to the traditional corned beef that is used.A pickled mustard condiment that has a whole cornucopia of veggies along with chilis . it would make for a nice supper when watching those games afterwards.There is also potato nik ,contributed by Mark Bittman.This is a kind of giant latke(perfect for Hanukkah which also shares the holiday spotlight).It's made more like a corn bread and a wedge would go well with some gravy and turkey slices.For those leftovers ,try WD-50's chef Wylie DuFresnes's turkey hash.This is a mix of leftover bird with potatoes and onion .Chef DuFresne suggests eggs sunny side up but is also a good pairing with scrambled ones too. More traditional yet some what sophisticated fare is also represented too. There is a French pumpkin soup by famed Lutece chef ,Andre Soltner.This is a better addition of pumpkin to the table than pie,in my opinion.It is a nice mix of the gourd with another autumn veggie, the turnip.White wine along with carrots and onions are also added to this cream enhanced potage.It would be best serving before the main dish and just as filling as any appetizer.Pastry chef,Claudia Fleming, of Gramercy Tavern,contributes an apple crumb crostata.This is more of a galette style dessert than traditional deep dish pie.It has a nice brown sugar and cinnamon topping.Another traditional dish is chef Suzanne Goin's turkey infused stock ,which can be made into everything from turkey chili to soup or risotto. Again ,save this week's New York Times Dining section.Try some of the rcipes tomorrow or over the weekend.All are tasty and are culinary riffs on the two holidays,Thanksgiving and Hannukah.Enjoy them .They're tasty variations to the usual fare.