There some some institutions that stand the test of time. The great eatery Chex Panisse is one of them .It has been around since 1971 thanks to it's chef Alice Waters. Chef Waters has created a menu that is amazing and iron clad.It has gone strong through through its five and a half decades.
Regular contributor and chef herself, Tejal Rao l had the lucky chance to eat and review Chez Anisse in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. The restaurant was started in 1971 by the great and innovative chef Alice Waters who introduced good French restaurant cuisine to Americans and the slow food movement. Hers is a farm to table cuisine, the initial one that influenced generations of young American chefs and taught people how to rethink cooking and eating. Chez Panisse still has her imprint . even thought it seems to have slightly changed. The restaurant is divided into two separate dining rooms with two separate kitchens. The downstairs half is run by chefs Amy Dencler and Martin Fabre while the upstairs is run by Nathan Alderson and Ann Cromley. downstairs there is a set menu that;s not a tasting but has four tight courses. A cheese menu can be added. There are pricey, however,One menu for this Monday is $135 while the dinners for the rest of week are a whopping.$175 per person.
Is the food worth the price? Yes. There are smaller dishes in the bar, namely zucchini blossoms with small zucchini still attached. There are also ala carte dishes as well.The salads(despite the scare of ingesting Cylospora) are finely calibrated offering fresh cranberry bean and fennel with anchovies lemons and eggs. Chef Tejal loved the gougere, a cheesy choux paste puff along with creamy butter beans swimming in broth and topped with olive oil and a halved hard boiled egg.The bar menu has Gulf shrimp so small they could easily be added to their fish stock. However they're fried and served whole with a splotch of lemon aioli. There are many strawberries dishes, thanks to the restaurant's relationship with supplier Swanton Berry Farm.Berries are surrounded by an airy Pavlova and freshly whipped cream. They rpdocued delicious savory and sweet baked goods. Their lamb pie was beautifully browned and crispy all over while their almond cake. This had a deeply golden top that bubbled at the center.It was topped with early blueberries in a dark syrup and whipped cream.
Chez Panisse is legend. It has and will draw people who crave good food in simple yet elegant recipes. It is the creme de la creme of American restaurants.
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