Rosh Hashanah will be here in another week and it's time to think about dishes. Any holiday , this year, will be weighted. It has been a bad year so far. What can we do to sweeten the new one. The answer comes in the form of recipes that expertly balance sweet with savory, in a way a hopeful wish for the months to come.
Melissa Clark and Joan Nathan have come up with two very different yet appropriate ways to bring in the New Year. Their recipes were featured in yesterday's New York Times Food section and are perfect savers for many years to come. Ms. Clark dedicates her A Good Appetite Column to the new craze of sheet pan cooking. She combines chicken with roasted plums and onions, an interesting way of combining sweet and savory. Keep in mind to get softer plums , ones that will release a lot of juice for moisture. You can use peaches , nectarines or pluots, again so long as they can produce enough juice.Ms. Clark recommends also using a slight squeeze of lemon for some acidity but not too much.Add a drizzle of honey because plum skins can be tannic or sour. The bird does have to be marinated a few hours before cooking. Flavorings include toasted fennel seeds along with allspice , fresh thyme springs and hot pepper flakes, the last used for zing. As for the onion, used a sliced red one. Everything is placed on a sheet and popped into a 425 degree F oven for about 30 to 45 minutes. You can garnish with flaky sea salt and more herbs.
Joan Nathan gives the more traditional tsimmes, a stew made of beef, carrots and sweet potatoes. The dish is originally German then Yiddish coming from the words zum essen meaning a big fuss. The original recipe included parsnips and turnips. It has since been adapted by Yiddish cooking and Americanized with the addition of sweet potatoes, brown sugar and cinnamon. Ms. Nathan has the sweet potatoes and even carrots for sweetness along with chopped prunes.Using the last means no extra brown sugar or honey in the recipe. For the meat she recommends using bone in flanken or flanken style ribs. You could also use three pounds of English cut short ribs. She also suggests subbing in the white Japanese yams for the American ones. For seasoning there's bay leaf and freshly ground black pepper. The flanken needs to be cooked the day before , in a Dutch oven with the bay leaf.It's cooked in a 350 degree F oven with eight cups of water for an hour, then removed from the heat. Let it cool overnight in the fridge. The next day, remove the congealed fat with a slotted spoon , and add the veggies and prunes, Bake covered for another hour and then remove the lid. Keep in oven until the potatoes are cooked, the meat is tender and the water is reduced. Season and serve with fresh, chopped parsley.
Making sweet dishes for the new year means a year full of sweetness. Hopefully this will be true.It's a time to start fresh leaving the sadness and bitterness of the previous year behind.
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