True Texas Mexican

Ask anyone to name Tex-Mex dishes and they'll probably rattle off a Taco Bell menu. Yet the cuisine, which should be properly called TexasMexican isn't about fajitas and bean dip.It's much more. It's a cuisine that goes back for milennia, full of indigenous produce and rich spices.

Rachel Wharton, a freelance food writer and new to the paper, wrote an interesting piece for today's New York Times Food section. She visited Houston, a city thriving in this Texan-Mexican cuisine.  She spent time and interviewed cookbook writer and chef Adan Medrano who is also trying to get the story out there.Many Americans think Tex-Mex has fajitas and margaritas, finished with fried iced cream. That is far from the case. True Texas-Mexican restaurants such as Cafe Amiga in Brownsville and Maria's restaurant in McAllen serve chicken with striped green squash and corn along with a tomato noodle soup call fideo.There  also the beef and and potato stew called picadillo. Gulf shrimp is mixed with cacti in a stew of red chilis. The name came to Chef Medrano after he enrolled in the CIA - Culinary Institute of America in 2010. He didn't want to use the phrase Tejano which has the "J" from its' colonial Spanish rule. He came up with the description  after learning about the distinct regional cuisines of Mexico.

How did it evolve from Texas Mexican to Tex Mex? It started in the early 1900's when local Mexican-American home cooking was first made in restaurants by Anglos for Anglos.Yet it was in the Seventies when the cuisine was finally given a name, mostly from  food writers. There  it was refried beans, chili made with powdered spices and stock instead of chile con carne  based on whole red chiles and of course fajitas with anything other than skirt steak. Then there was the problem of cheese - cheese everywhere.Even on the other side of the Rio Grande the cuisine held with newer generations, unlike here.They are eating the same dishes their nomadic ancestors ate as they moved around both sides of the Rio Grande for generations.There are recipes with the article that demonstrate the natural ingredients. There is tacos de picadillo with ground beef with cumin and carne giusada with papas or potatoes.The last is laced with Serrano chiles and peppercorns.

Texan Mexican cuisine has been around for centuries. It is making itself known as  vibrant  and flavorful. The colorful dishes will be the true taste of Texas.