The Return Of The Chesapeake Oyster

The Chesapeake oyster is making a comeback and in a big way.This gem of the famed bay is now wanted by some of New York's top restaurants.Thanks to a dedicated family the bivalves are now being enjoyed by a new generation of oyster lovers. Julia Moskin had the opportunity to interview the family, namely the two cousins who revived their family's century old oystering business.The Croxton family was one of the main stories in Wednesday's New York Times Dining section.The youngest generation, Travis and Ryan, inherited the Rappahannock Oyster Company and the leases on the Rappahannock River.If they didn't continue in the trade ,the government would take up the leases, and their great grandfather's legacy.Since they do have masters degrees in marketing ,the brothers went to New York's famed Le Berardin restaurant to sell their seafood and were an instant hit.The oysters, also known as the virginica were so rare that the chefs wanted them right then and there.They became can instant hit, Now they also have the Grand Central Oyster Bar as another client.The oysters themselves are perfect, plump and fleshy ,what they were back during the oyster's hey day in the 1870's. Why was there such aversion to the virginica oyster? It thanks to the horrific pollution of the Chesapeake Bay.When the Croxton family first bought the leases, the bay was rich with plankton and phyto nutrients that are the food that oysters need to survive.The waters were clean ,full of lush thriving marsh grass .Unfortunately as the Twentieth Century progressed, fertilizers and insecticides were dumped into it and contaminated the oyster meat. It created a problem with most marine life dying out.This meant no more oysters at any of the top East Coast restaurants.Luckily the Chesapeake Bay Foundation was started in 1967 to protect and restore the bay. There was even talk of introducing a Chinese breed, a disease resistant kind that grows to maturity in just a year.However that was vetoed, because a foreign variety could also bring a host of problems too as it happemded in the South, there with kudzu and the walking catfish. Oyster affectionados have the Croxton cousins to thank for bringing back the industry.Oysters are coming back with their ripe, briny flavor and texture.They are no longer a rarity but a treat.