Wednesday, July 8, 2015

Cooking In Times Of Drought

The California drought has affected everything in the state.It's no surprise that it's also had an impact on both home and restaurant cooking.How are Cali kitchens faring? Pretty well thanks to both innovation and conservation.

Kim Severson wrote about this devastating problem in today's New York Times Food section. The Golden State has been experience little to no rainfall for the past four years. It has colored every facet of life.Cooks both at home and at the many restaurants are feeling it the most.. Pasta water has a double use nowadays ;at first cooking up spaghetti and penne and then being used to water plants .Fruits and veggies do not have long baths to rinse off dirt and pesticides .It's a quick dip and that's the end.Another big change is how food is being prepared. Steaming is the preferred way as opposed to boiling and cooks opt for less pots and pans. and trying whole meals made on sheet pans. Recipes are also made with less than the required amount of water.Ms. Severson interviewed chef Andrea Nguyen  who had to alter her signature dish, the aromatic Vietnamese soup pho.This is a recipe that calls for a lot of fresh water, first for blanching meat and bones and then more fresh water is added for cooking them. The truncated recipe now called for different measurements of the required spices such as star anise, ginger and cinnamon.She has added fish sauce for more liquid and flavor.The taste is still the same, perhaps more intense in taste.

What about the ingredients themselves? California cheese and milk have a different taste thanks to the drought.The reason lies with cows who once ate lush grass and now are eating whatever grasses can grow on their farms. The produces is the most affected. It's not just the rainless period that's contributing but also a mild winter followed by  bad Spring that was exceptionally cold. This resulted in smaller fruit and vegetables however this does have an up side.  Less water means a more delicious  yet smaller produce. Lovers of the Early Girl dry farmed tomatoes know something about this. waterless  farming method, which  started before the drought,It relies on cutting off irrigation once a plant is established, making it depending on whatever water sources it can find. Doing this cuts off water to the cells, thus creating a more flavorful peach or tomato. This is fine, save for the cost. Any drought or natural hardship means less of a harvest and higher prices. This affects how both professional and home chefs cooking ad baking., Staple crops like rice are also affected, meaning smaller harvests and double the price at the wholesalers and grocery stores.This does mean more creativity in the kitchens as the hard times persist .

California is filled with tough , hardy people who can weather anything including this persistent drought. It reflects in their food , how they grow it and prepare it during these difficult times. West coast cuisine may a bit different now but it will carry on.