Are California bagels better than the ones in New York City? There's a new report that says there is which means a bi-coastal war. Yet before sharp words and sharper knives start flying, let's see why. There may be a reason for the Golden State producing these golden circles.
The instigator behind this is none other than famed chef and New York Times Food contributor Tejal Rao wrote about it in today's New York Times Food section. It's caused a stir with even local news programs in the area weighing in. Yet is Ms. Rao right? Does California have better bagels than us here in the New York metro area? Yes, but there's a reason for that. Many bakers have New York roots. Emily Winston who owns Boichik Bagels in trendy Berkeley California is from central New Jersey and was fed sesame bagels from the iconic H & H Bagels on the Upper West Side. Her father used to bring them home where the family enjoyed the crisp crust and chewy , dense inside. Then there's Zachery Liporace, a New Yorker who moved to Los Angeles. He started a pop up bagel shop called Pop's Bagel after his grandfather. His bagels, while having that metro influence are a bit different than what New Yorkers expect. His is light with a definite crunch, and perfect with his store's signature cream cheese made tangy with the addition of buttermilk. Ms. Watson also shines. Her bakery had long lines before the pandemic and now she's delivering with larger quantities. This is due to recreating a new website , and hired a Shopify developer to help her.
There are other bagel makers that are putting California bagels on the map.Arielle Skye and her partner,Chris Moss of Courage Bagels are making ones similar to Montreal style bagels. These are smaller with larger holes and have the addition of eggs and malt. There's no salt in the batter and they're boiled in honey sweetened water. Her smoky poppy seed bagels are the best, according to Ms. Rao and the everything ones have tasty bits of onion and garlic.Midnite Bagels is another bagel shop on her radar. Nick Beitcher , the owner, grew up eating bagels from LA favorites Bagel Nosh Deli and New York Bagels. His father used to bring home bags of them and the family still has them for their Yom Kippur fast break. Yet he's more influenced by his time as head baker at the famed Tartine, working in the school of chef Chad Robertson. His have a high hydration and they're naturally fermented with a young, liquid-y starter. This is left to develop flavor for twenty-four hours. He thinks of bagels as he does of bread, with tasting the grain first, then concentrate on the contrasts of flavor and textures.
After all this is there any question about who has the best bagels? it depends on what you're used to eating and what you love. Taste is different for everyone and that should also apply to bagels as well.
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