Nothing beats a good croissant.There's something about those layers of crackly buttery goodness and chewy melt in your mouth middle. Yet there are patisserie bakers and innovators who want to reinvent this French classic. Will these be the new cronut? There's the question.
Regular contributor Julia Moskin wrote about this in today's New York Times Food section .As she has pointed out it's been ten years since thebirth of Dominic Ansel's cronut, that strange tasty hybrid of jelly doughnut and croissant. What's happening now with this elegant bread? Surprisingly a lot. At Lysee; in New York's trendy Flatiron section baker fills croissant spirals with hazelnut chocolate ganache and then packs them in round cake pan. They''re baked in around cake pan and when cooled torn off like pull apart rolls. Celebated French pastry chef Cedric Grolet nestled dozens of tiny croissants in a frangipane or almond cream lined tart crust for an Epiphany cake. Then there is Amadou Ly who created the interesting hybrid the laminated baguette. This is taking baguette dough and wrapping it in a thin layer of croissant dough around it. The result is almost like having a thin layer of salted butter on the bread. Chef Ly is a master in lamination , also creating twists of dough painted with chocolate ganache to create a kind of inside otu babka. There is even croissant cereal, made by Gautier Croissard at his Apartemente 4 in Brooklyn Heights.
The croissant is nothing new. According to Ms. Moskin the Chinese have subing, while the Balkans have their phyllo dough,North African msemen, South asian roti paratha and Eastern European strudel. An Austrian chef brought the recipe to Paris where butter rich pastries were de rigeur for centuries.Its' ancestry comes from defeat over the Ottoman Empire taking over Vienna or Budspest around the mid 1680's. The bakers were the ones who sounded the alarm against the Turks and asked only that they create a bread, the kipferl to celebrate the Turk's defeat. The standard recipe is flour, yeast butter and milk. The mark of a good croissant baker is based on the shaping.Clean cut and sharp likes are the test of a good baker. A croissant should be tightly rolled anf golden brown all over.Pale patches and puffiness are often signs of the pastry being made with hydrogenated fats instead of butter. The exterior should be crackly enough to break into shards.Beyond that anything is up for grabs. They can be stuffed with chocolate ,jam or almond paste. kate Reid of Lune Croissanterie in Melbourne Australia fills her with such interesting combinations like pastami and sauerkraut , chocolate and peanut butter and Vegemite and cheese.
Will the croissant be reinvented again. The answer is yes. It's a blank canvas for so many creative bakers that a different kind will be coming soon.
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