Thursday, September 17, 2020

Summer's Last Bounty

 There are still harvests to be found, relics of a summer garden.Green beans and peppers can still be fashioned into tasty recipes. Figs can be turned into a delicious dessert. We can still hold on to the season, thanks to some interesting spins on classic dishes.

David Tanis wrote  about doing such in his column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Gardens and groceries are still yielding up sometimes copious bounties that are perfect for an early fall table.The flavors from this fresh picked are brighter and more flavorful, resulting in a more delicious dish. He starts with the recipe for roasted peppers with capers , olives and anchovies. The peppers are sweet on their own but something salty added, like those three ingredients will amp up the sweetness. Mr. Tanis recommends using Corno or red bell peppers along with anchovy fillets, capers and olives although I would have just stuck with the anchovies (this and the peppers creates the great Piedmontese dish pepe e anciugi). The peppers are first roasted .They're then marinated in a garlicky vinaigrette and served with the fish, olives and capers. The main dish is lamb chops  with seasonal veggies.It's accompanied by a stew of green beans, corn , zucchini and summer squash. Again Mr. Tanis marinates here , the chops are seasoned with garlic, rosemary and sage.They're then fried and served with the vegetable stew which has been flavored with onions.

These recipes remind me of a Northern Italian meal my  Mom and cousins have made over the years. Mr. Tanis reinforces that vibe with the bonus of a polenta recipe. This can be a side or made the star , served with a side of the veggie stew. His polenta is baked with ricotta and Parmesan cheese along with olive oil. This is perfect for cheese lovers because the ricotta will still be in big blobs once cooked, perfect for mashing into the polenta.It's baked until brown and garnished with a good sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper.  You could just make this with sausages too, for an easy weekend supper. To finish off the meal, Mr. Tanis again goes with an Italian classic. It's a creamy panna cotta - cooked cream with figs and berries. The panna cotta has a light nutty flavor thanks to the addition of almond flavoring. The fig compote that pairs with it has  stove top roasted figs, blackberries, blueberries and raspberries. These have been roasted for forty minutes with Calvados brandy or kirsch. (this depends on your taste) They and the roasting juices are placed around the panna cotta and all of it can be served in a wine glass or ramekin.

Take advantage of the last of the summer harvests with these great recipes. They'll remind you of a dinner in Northern Italy, when the temps dip and fall is in the air. It's a perfect way to welcome in a new season.