Lighter Meatballs For Spring

 Meatballs can be heavy, often thought of as being a winter dish,. Yet they can be made much lighter for The warmer months (along with making for great appetizers)Just sub in the turkey for beef and enjoy a lighter fare,

New contributor and famed nutritionist Samantha Cassetty gave this recipe for the Italian classic in today's New York Times  Wednesday Food section, These are low sodium healthy meatballs. Yes, they can go with a pasta, preferably an Anglia e olio one where the flavor would add to the simple sauce. They would also be great appetizers for an Easter brunch on their own. She keeps the sodium at a mere below 760 milligrams of salt, This is a third below of the required daily intake. However what they lack in saltiness, they do make up in flavor. Ms. Cassetty. There is za.atar , that spicy Middle Eastern blend and ground pepper. To give it some saltiness kosher salt, which is larger in grain size than table salt can be used.It contains less sodium too. Garlic and parsley will give the meatballs some flavor too. As for the sauce latter try a mix of Greek yogurt and tahini. How it;s served can be varied.Stuff a couple into a toasted pita or serve with brown rice or bulgar;A side of garlicky greens sauteed in olive soil is a nice since.

Is it hard to make meatballs? NO.This is a great recipe for novice home chefs. These are baked in a 400 degree Farenheit oven which is better than frying them (although they can be air fried too).What gives the meatballs their silkiness and flavor is the mix of yogurt tahini and garlic, bright with a squeeze of lemon juice. One egg is whisked into this and then the ground turkey is added. The spices such a  as za'atar is added a long with the parsley. Use just a teaspoon of the kosher salt and a few grinds of fresh pepper.Hands  should be oiled before rolling the meat into balls.Use two tablespoons of the meat mixture to make around eighteen balls. Place them on a parchment lined baking sheet and bake about ten minutes Drizzle the cooked meatballs with yogurt, tahini and lemon juice mixture and garnish with the remaining parsley.Consider these for a great Easter brunch appetizer or even at a shower.

These low salt turkey meatballs are a great alternative to the beef ones. Make them for a lighter Spring fare. They're perfect with pasta or with pita.

Eat Like A Critic

 Imagine the life of a restaurant critic. Yes, its full of good food and trendy eateries but there is a down side.It's being overweight with all sorts of health issues thanks to rich meals and richer desserts that follow. However one critic was able to break this cycle by switching his habits. It lead to a better life and improved health.

The critic is Pete Wells who has been restaurant critic for The New York Times Food section for thirteen years. He wrote about his journey from being unhealthy to being healthy in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday section. It is tough to be a food critic, especially in Manhattan and its' boroughs (he also reviewed restaurants ion other cities throughout the country too)A blood test revealed pre diabetes as well as high cholesterol. The pre diabetes scared him the most. It was time to change his diet.He didn't count calories as so many dieters do. He did change the way he ate and what he ate.He had to rethink his relationship with food and how he ate at home. Surprisingly , he didn't;t worry about his sodium and potassium intakes Those , he felt, would be more important to someone who has kidney disease. He had a general assumption, like with anyone  about what was right to eat and what was wrong. He found that the behavioral approach has become a dominant school of thought in mainstream nutrition,

One key factor was to break up with sugar. Most Americans go   mad for it, He looked to simple carbohydrates to help him with this however its the sugars in these that drive the need for eating. He reset his sugar cravings . Gone were the mounds of white rice along with breakfasts with the base of some baked good ,from an English fun to taste  and topped with everything from honey butter to plum jam. Five months into his reformation he received good news from his doctor. He was no longer prediabetic.He also replaced refined grains with whole ones.Another interesting thing happened. His strong desires for sweets decreased. He had more clarity in his thinking.Fruits and veggies were more in his diet and their sugars and don;t increase the glucose. He gives a sweet potato recipe with chermoula,a vibrant North African relish.It calls for sweet potatoes sliced in half and then boiled in salt water for fifteen to twenty minutes. The chermoula is a blend of cilantro,parsley and Serrano Chiles. Flavoring also comes from garlic,paprika cumin and cayenne. There is also lemon juice for zing and the sweet potatoes are topped with roasted chickpeas for crunch. It makes for a nice weekend lunch or easy weeknight dinner.

Eat like a food critic. It worked for Pete Wells with his decrease in sugar and watching his calorie intake.It proved to be a better, healthier life for him.

Keeping A British Classic Safe

 Pie and mash is as integral to British dining and life as fish and chips is. Now there's a campaign to make this tasty dish one of the most protected dishes in the UK ,

New contributor, Londoner Demi Perera ,a writer for Lonely Planet wrote about this in today's New York Times Food Wednesday section.Pie and mash is a beloved dish from London's gritty East end. It was a Cockney favorite for years having being created in the mid Nineteenth century for dockworkers who craved a warm meal at lunch time.it also had to be cheap to fit in with their low wages as well. Pie men first appeared here selling ones stuffed with eels from Dutch ships.Minced meat fillings replaced the fish and a side of mashed potatoes was added. The first pie shop was opened by Henry Blanchard in 1844 in the London borough of Southwark, situated on the Thames south bank. This is where all the dockworkers and porters plied their trade. The dish has remained the same 180 years later. There is still handmade minced beef pie with a scrape if mashed potato. As in 1844 there is parsley sauce on top of this, called liquor.It was originally made with water leftover from boiling eels, thickened with flour and then seasoned with salt and pepper. Now there is even a vegan version for vegetarians.

Again this is as dear to the Brits ,especially the Cockneys who have left the city and now all live in nearby Essex (this has become the pie and mash capital of England).Unfortunately thanks to a diverse and vibrant multiculture the dish is on the brink of extinction. Pie shop owners across the country want to give the dish " traditional specialty guaranteed: status.However fifteen producers must decide on a single recipe to support what's known as the TSG application. some, like Cheryl Arment, owner of Arment's Pie and mash were afraid they'd have to divulge family secrets. Her family recipe and store have been around since 1914.She couldn't;t let light in on the magic.Luckily shop owners agreed on a standardized recipe for mincemeat which seemed to satisfy the requirements. It was either that or if the dish's name had been in production for thirty years. This suits the East End piemen just fine.Many feel that the status is long in coming. Another piemen Andy green 's campaign for to even gained traction in Parliament when Conservative Richard Holden secured formal discussion of the issue in Parliament to draw political support.

Pie and mash is as English as fish and chips and Devon cream tea. It has fed millions of Brits for decades. It should be elevated in British history and British life.

The Best of Middle Eastern Food

 The Middle East has always been beset by conflict through the millennia. This overshadows the region's amazing array of both savory and sweet dishes.It's a shame because the recipes are so good and delicious. They should be the topic of conversation not war.

One of the tastiest (and my favorite )is za'arar. This is a mix of dried thyme, oregano, marjoram and cumin along with sumac cumin and coriander.OLive oil is added to create to create a smooth pesto like paste it can be made at home or bought at your store's spice section.You could easily use dry za'atar on chicken or steak  for a flavorful roast .It CNA be spooned in egg dishes or vegetable sautes tot. However the best way to enjoy the melding of herbs is over hot , crispy  fresh from the oven pita bread. It's sort of like a green pizza but with so much more flavor. Another delicious dish is tabouli.This is a salad consisting of chopped parsley , cucumbers and bulgur. Chopped scallions , tomatoes and garlic are also added. A dressing of olive oil, lemon coriander and cinnamon are whisked together.To give it cooling notes a handful of chopped mint tops off the tabouli.Serve with pita wedges or on its' own.Shawarma finishes off the Middle Eastern meal. This is roasted layers of lamb and beef and served with different sauces like tahini and garlic yogurt.

There are also sweets that shine in Middle Eastern cuisine.Baklava is made all over the eastern Mediterranean (including Greece).It is a labor intensive bake but so m=worth the work/It's ;Ayers of thin, crackly phyllo dough that can be made at home or bought. The layers are filled with ground pistachios and cinnamon The nuts are found in a blender or food processor and they and the spice are blended together . The phyllo dough has to be brushed with melted butter and then layered with the filling. At the end , the dough is scored into diamond shapes and baked in a 160 degree Farenheit oven. A sauce of honey, vanilla extract and lemon juice is made, cooked down into a syrup. This is poured over the cooled baklava and then served. Palestinian desserts , whether Muslim or Christian have religious meaning. Take Barbara named for Saint Barbara , whose resting place was a small village near Ramalleh.It looks a little like rice pudding but is made with wheat and different spices like anise and cinnamon.Raisins are added for texture.

The Middle East should be known for its' food not it;s conflicts. The world is missing out on delicious flavors molded together in tasty recipes. These should be known  and enjoyed

The Hassle Of Hasslebacks

 Hasselback potatoes have become one of stars of this crazy year. They look easy to make and all the sites say they're delicious. I thought I 'd give them a try.

I bought  a Hasselback grid from Gia's Kitchen on Amazon. It's a two piece affair with spiked wooden block and a grid on top of it.

It takes a sharp knife to cut into raw  russet potato which is like cutting into wood. 

It was hard to do even slices. You're supposed to cut almost all the way through, leaving about a quarter of an inch untouched. This is supposed to produce an accordion effect when cooked. All the online recipes have a variety of flavorings, from herbed melted butter to olive oil.I just brushed the slits and skins with olive oil and sprinkled on dried parsley.

They're supposed to be baked for half an hour in an air fryer at 350 degrees. This is what they looked like halfway through. a bit browned and promising.

Half an hour later they weren't. They were still raw so I gave them an extra ten minutes at 400 degrees F.

Most of it was OK, They didn't fan out and there were very few crispy bits. They did not look like golden accordions. Making Hasselback potatoes takes practice and making adjustments to the recipe.

Hasselback potatoes are a great side . Keep in mind you have to make them a few times to get those golden accordion slices. It's worth it knowing what the result could be.

New Traditional Pastas

New traditions are forming every day, especially in food.One of the most striking is in pasta. Gone are the days when spaghetti or penne were made with Durham wheat. Now there are all sorts of flours going into traditional dishes.

One of the most famous and popular is  Banta. I bought their spaghetti  made from chickpeas.

The company has several different different types, from this and angel hair  to lasagna strips to elbow macaroni. There's even kid pastas from wagon wheels to alphabet. It takes about the same amount of time as regular pasta and tastes almost the same too. There is a slight chickpea aftertaste.

The texture too is the same  and didn't clump the way wheat based spaghetti does. The only disconcerting aspect is that the water foams up while boiling. This can be easily skimmed off. More traditional companies such Ronzoni and Barilla are also jumping on the band wagon.They're using vegetables such as cauliflower, carrots, spinach and tomatoes instead of beans. There's also their Super greens composed of spinach , zucchini, broccoli, parsley and kale. Barilla is also offering chickpea pasta too as well as red lentil. Red lentil spaghetti is a fun and healthy way to enjoy a traditional pasta.

Traditional wheat pasta is making way for a new type. It's much more healthier and even tastier. What's great is that you can make it as just as classic and delicious as the original ones.

A Savory Babka

By now everyone should be an expert at bread making. Why not step it up a notch and try babka, a savory one that makes for a nice lunch or dinner with salad. It's a fun bake and a different kind of challenge.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark gave us this recipe in her  A Good Appetite Column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. This isn't the traditional cinnamon one or the trendy chocolate laced kind. This is a savory one, with a cheesy herbed filling that takes on a Mediterranean vibe with the addition of prosciutto, salami  or olives.It's the perfect quick meal and you can even bring it along on a picnic. Just remember that babka, like any bread, can be labor intensive. It has to be proofed twice. The first time should be in a cozy, warm place according to Ms. Clark. Think of it like a cat looking for a place to nap, she advises.A bowl of the proofing dough can be placed on top of the fridge, and even in the nook of your couch. It could even be wrapped in a blanket and placed on a sunny spot on the floor. Then there's the second proofing. This is done in the fridge overnight. The long fermentation develop's the bread's flavor however if you;'re strapped for time, then a four hour proof can do the trick.

As for the filling, Ms Clark gives a mixture of ricotta and Parmesan. However if you don't have it she recommends any creamy cheese such as goat, cottage or even cream cheese.It does have to be room temperature for better malleability If you want extra saltiness then add some olives and ham along with alliums such as chopped scallions and minced garlic.Herbs are important in the recipe too, however if you're partial to one or two, then just use your favorites. Try such finely chopped ones as basil mint , parsley thyme leaves or cilantro. Three tablespoons of them should do the trick in flavoring the whole loaf. The one problem with babka is shaping it. There are videos you can watch  but it's just a simple, roll and braid. Ms. Clark assures that the loaf is fine  if the filling is put into the dough, then rolled and baked. Her method is spreading the filling on the rolled out dough. Use an icing scraper for this. Roll it into a tightly coiled log,then bring one end to the other and twist. Baking time is 35 to 45 minutes   375 degree oven. The result is a fragrant , golden brown bread. Serve it warm as a meal with a nice salad.

A savory babka is a nice change up from the regular breads everyone has been making. This is a cheesy , herb rich slice that's perfect for lunch or dinner. Bake it today for a nice break.

A Childhood Favorite Dave Tanis Style

If you're  full Piedmontese or even a fraction of the nationality, you grew up with bollito misto. It was spoken in  almost mystical tones by my Mom and her aunts, my great aunts.It's a variety of different boiled meats and veggies topped off with salsa verde, parsley sauce. Now David Tanis takes one of my family recipes and updates it.

Bollito misto or boiled mix is a big deal.It's usually served at both Christmas and New Year's along with special occasions like baptisms , confirmations and engagement parties. it's a melange of both sausages and various cuts of beef. There are also veggies involved and of course, the most important part bagnet vert , Piemontese for green bath, the parsley sauce. Mr. Tanis received most of the recipes from Chef Danielle Glantz's friend and home chef, Gaia Bonaden , a food and beverage consultant from Torino, Italy. grew up, as I did with the recipe. Her family used a tail to snout philosophy , If you make this you can start with several beef cuts along with veal cheek and tongue along with oxtail. Sausage stuffed pig's feet and cotechino sausage ,a fennel laced mix of pork and red wine are also served. A stewing hen or capon is sometimes added too (my family never added any poultry) It wouldn't be a Piedmontese dish without the veggies. Mr. Tanis includes carrots , fennel bulbs ,golden beets, turnips, rutabagas and Yukon Gold potatoes. I would use Swiss chard if I could find it now too along with cardoons.


Of course bollito misto is nothing without the sauce. This is one heavy on the parsley. There's also basil, which my family recipe doesn't include. ( I  plan on making a vegan version and I am debating about using the basil or just amping up the parsley). Salt brined capers along with a pinch of red peppers are added for more flavor and a zing of heat. There is also horseradish and vinegar added. I remember that we served the horseradish on the side because not everyone liked its' strong taste. Will I add it to my salsa verde? Debatable. There are also scallions which also are a debatable point.Mr. Tanis includes Ms.  Bonaden's salsa rossa.bread soaked in vinegar laced with garlic cloves, tomato paste and two cooked bell peppers. Cayenne and paprika are also added for fire which will also liven up the flavors of the meat and veggies.Mr. Tanis serves all of this buffet style , but it's great family style with people reaching here and there for what they want. He also starts with small cups of broth - brodo with what seems to be tortallini. There's also an endive salad with hard boiled eggs and another Piemontese must have anchovies. I don't know if I would make this . To me it seems a bit much. He ends with a pear and frangipane crostini tart. It sounds and looks delicious but  after bollito misto, dessert is kind of redundant. I'd probably just serve  espresso with grappa and maybe a fresh fruit platter

It's amazing to see this childhood recipe again, especily in the NY Times Food section I intend on making my version to celebrate it. Try bollito misto for a different take on a buffet dinner. You'll enjoy it, guaranteed.

A Piedmontese Picnic

Piemonte , located in the northern and most western part of Italy has summers are pure perfection at times, especially up in the Alps. Many trek to these mountains to enjoy the fresh air and cool streams. However they're also there to enjoy something far greater - Piemontese picnic dishes.

This is the food my mother and I grew up on. Piemontese food is more like what you'd get along the French Riviera (remember that our cuisine is the origin of French cooking).One of the most famous is cold veal with  tuna sauce - vitello tonnato. The simplest version of the sauce is mashed tuna in water mixed with mayo.Capers and their brine are added along with salt and pepper. The veal is boiled - bollito - along with such vegetables as carrots , leeks and parsnips. The last you can switch it up with subbing in cauliflower and broccoli for the leeks and parsnips. Also you can nix the meat if you feel it's too much trouble to make.Insalata rizzo is another favorite - and a family one too. It's taking a can of peas and carrots and mixing it rice. Again mayo is added to give it creaminess. Capers could be added if you want more saltiness. Another picnic must is insalata di carne cruda,is a minced raw beef or veal appetizer, prepared with lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. It's sort of like steak tatare and served with salad greens.

Salumeria - the Piemontese version of charcuterie - is always a big thing. There's a variety of different cured meats and a large baguette to slice for sandwiches. You could make bagnet verde, a cold sauce made from parsley, garlic, and those Piemontese staple breadcrumbs and anchovies for the meats. It's a nice alternative to aioli and plain olive oil. There is also bagnet ross, a combination of ripe tomatoes, onions, peppers, celery and parsley. Mashed anchovies and mustard are added for texture.All the ingredients are cooked and then pureed. Bagnet ross can be  chilled. Use it for dipping raw veggies or just hunks of bread. A great picnic idea is having the province's many cheeses with sliced rolls or baguettes.Tuma is a very strong, almost Limburger type cheese that would pair well with a hearty Barolo., the region's famed red wine.A less  - overpowering - fromage is Robiola, a Brie type cheese that would pair with grissini, the ultra thin bread sticks first made in Torino.

A Piemontese picnic is a sophisticated and delicious way to enjoy eating outdoors.There's a 's variety of refreshing and chilled dishes that make for good eating. Plan one and enjoy the flavors' of one of Italy most beautiful provinces.

Melissa Clark's Thanksgiving Issue

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and with it brings recipe anxiety. Many home chefs are wondering what to cook and how to cook it. There's also the problem of finding new dishes to liven up the meal. Not to worry. Melissa Clark comes to rescue,

She was the star  - and rightly so - of today's New York Times Wednesday Food section. She has contributed some of the paper's best recipes along with great advice for several years.It's no wonder.Cooking  is in her veins. Her chief influence were her parents who were also creative with recipes. The one that has her father's influence is her roast turkey with garlic, rosemary  and anchovies. He didn't like cooking a bland bird, threatening to sub in something else like a leg of lamb. His daughter takes it a step further and treats the turkey as if it were a leg of lamb. She pierces the legs all over  and stuffs the tiny  slits with a paste of garlic ,rosemary and anchovies. This is also rubbed all over the rest of the bird as well.  This also makes for a more fragrant gravy too.The bird sits for an hour before being popped into a 450 F degree oven.Of course stuffing has to come with it. Hers is made with rich  buttery brioche and roasted peeled chestnuts. As with any stuffing, sage and  thyme are added. Ms. Clark uses fresh for maximum flavor. Another must is chicken or turkey stock,It has to be homemade for the best taste. Season it with leeks and parsley tops .

Sides are always important to the Thanksgiving meal.Again Ms. Clark knows how to elevate the humble cranberry, turning it into a  dinner table star. She takes her Aunt Sandy's recipe, originally from a magazine and updates it. Gone is the orange that gave the berries some tang. In its place is pomegranate There are also pistachios for crunch and more color. Instead of sugar she makes it healthier by subbing in half a cup of honey.Other dishes are mashed sweet potatoes with bourbon(!) and brown sugar along with broccoli with fried shallots and olives. These would definitely be eye openers at any table, thanks to the different spin on them.Every holiday table has to have potatoes and salad. Again, Ms. Clark does not disappoint with her recipes.The potatoes are slathered in a duck fat confit , made fragrant with thyme, sage and garlic. The result is a crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside potato that will sure to be a hit. Her salad has anchovy  - again-blended with lemon juice and parsley. This is a great dressing to make for weeknight salads too. Pie is de rigeur . Her pumpkin pie is laced with rum along with ginger and star anise.Four egg yolks give the filling richness. To gild the lily even more there is a ginger ice cream recipe, zinged up with fresh ginger and cinnamon.It's perfect with the pie, as it's decorated with candied ginger.

Follow Ms. Clark's recipes for a fun twist on a classic holiday meal. The result is a tasty dinner , from beginning to end. Try all of them - or just try one or two for a unique Thanksgiving.

A Briny Summer Treat Of Clams

No matter where it is in summer, there's nothing so welcome as seafood. Clams are a special pleasure , picking up spicing along with maintaining its' taste of the sea.One way that highlights this is steaming them. It's also easy cooking especially during these humid days.

Allison Roman highlighted these gems of the sea in yesterday's New York Times Food section. According to her clams are the best bivalves.Eaten raw, they are brinier, milder and cleaner than the oyster (both are natural water filters and there can be a residual taste of whatever they've filtered) Steamed, they're better than mussels because juicier, meaty and less fishier in flavor. Clams are wonderful cooked in a pool of toasted garlic oil, mixed with an acidic white wine. Larger clams can be picked from their shells and coarsely chopped. They could be then returned to the broth  with the addition of celery and chorizo. Ms. Roman spoons all of this on toasted crusty bread. she reminds home chefs to think small. Littleneck clams, the ones she recommends using , can come in all different sizes. They should be between the size of a grape and an apricot. However Manila clams, are also good. They are the smallest and would work well in the recipe. Another choice is cockles. These are a small clamlike bivalve that can be easily subbed into any clam recipe.

The recipe can be labor intensive for those not used to prepping seafood. Use a natural bristle kitchen brush or a brand new kitchen sponge to scrub the clams under running water. After they've been scrubbed and scrubbed again,let them sit in a bowl of cold water. This will allow any residual grit or sand to free itself from the shells.It'll just settle on the bottom of the bowl and can easily be tossed in the yard (the sand may clog up the drain). It's then heating up the oil, butter, and chorizo. If the last is too spicy  , consider plain sausage or better yet, bacon. as the butter melts and the pork renders its' fat, then add garlic and cook until it's turns a light toasty golden brown hue.Its then adding wine which should be very dry. Ms. Roman advises against using anything that's not overly oaky, sweet or creamy. Add two large stalks of  celery cut into thin strips, on the bias and cook until its' a bright green. Now it's time to toss in the clams and shake the pot so that they settle nicely. let them steam open and release their juices. Any unopened clam is considered dead and should be thrown away. serve the clams in a bowl over parsley chives and celery leaves. Serve with lemon and lime zest and pair with a , hot crusty slice of bread that's been rubbed with olive oil.

Clams are the perfect summer's night treat. Steam them with white wine, garlic, and butter. Enjoy their brininess and sweetness with crusty bread. It's a welcome flavor during these warm, balmy days.

The Start Of Barbecue Season

One of the best aspects about Flag Day is that it's the start of the barbecue season. Where else but to look to Germany where our barbecue staples originated. Stick with the standards or try some modern twists.

Of course there are hamburgers, originally from the northern port city Hamburg, located on the Elbe River. These are always tasty and over the years have had been changed with all sorts of spices and extras thrown into the original recipe. It calls for onion which gives the chopped meat that distinctive flavor along with dried bread crumbs and parsley. Egg is used for binding. What many American home chefs don't realize is that there is another flavor - an undercurrent of spice. It is nutmeg, usually one quarter teaspoon. There may be a debate about this  of whether or not to use grated fresh or bottled. That's really up to you and if you can get fresh nutmeg or not. (most farmer's markets do sell the nuts, they're about the size of chestnuts). A good dose of fresh ground pepper and a teaspoon of sea salt is also added. The onion must be cooked until translucent in a foam of butter (use a knob of butter and cook until a pale golden brown foam forms).Let the onions cool and add them and the other ingredients to the chopped beef. Cook until nicely browned on both sides.

Hot dogs or frankfurters are another German contribution. Unfortunately, they can't be made at home yet you can easily buy those that taste like the first dogs.Frankfurter Wurtzschen can be bought at German butchers in your area, This may take an extensive Google search  (although should it should be easier in the Chicago area) however if you're in the Bergen County area of New Jersey , then go to the Swiss Pork Store in Fair Lawn.. They make the most original frankfurters along with weisswurst, the creamy  , ivory colored wurst.  If you don't have one nearby then look into The Wurst Haus which comes out of Hermann, Missouri. They may be able to sell them to you. If not , then go for Nathan's which has the best flavor and texture. Another barbecue must have is bratwurst. These are delicious just grilled  and served with mustard  and sauerkraut. If you can make the last then do so, It is fermentation but it's one of the easiest ferments to do at home.

It's the start of the barbecue season. Go for the wursts , bratwursts and Hamburg steaks.Enjoy the originals.

Holiday Breakfast Treats

Holiday breakfasts should be just as grand as the main meals. They should be flavorful and fun, the perfect meal to start the day, especially with relatives or friends staying over. They could be sweet, savory or both.

Yottam Ottolenghi wrote about breakfasts today in the Wednesday section of the New York Times. It's basically an article about finding the right foods for his young sons. It can be frustrating , especially when trying to create a nutritious and flavorful first meal. In order to do such, Chef Ottolenghi has to use the weekends which offer the luxury of time. An extra hour can let anyone create a well thought out breakfast and give one  time to really concentrate on the meal. His first recipe is maple-cardamon saffron sticky buns. These are yeast based and that may scare some home bakers. The buns are the standard saffron ones and the kick comes from the icing made from maple syrup and cardamon.It is made in a monkey bread formation of eight dough balls stuck together to form a ring.They're pulled apart later. The syrup is made by crushing the cardamon and discarding their pods.. This  is mixed with a vanilla bean paste, melted butter and maple syrup.It's cooked into a thick syrup and then brushed over the newly baked buns. Chef Ottolenghi suggests serving them with clotted cream, but try them with butter and fleur de sel.

The other dish is potato hot cakes with cheddar cream and salsa verde. This is a perfect Christmas or New Year's Day breakfast. The hotcakes are like latkes or potato pancakes.He recommends using Yukon Golds, slicing them and first crisping them in a 450 degrees Farenheit oven . After baking ,the skins are then discarded and the meat is mashed. Lemon juice, two eggs and seasonings are added. They're then fried in olive oil , again, similar to latkes.They're topped with sunnyside up eggs and a cheddar sauce. This is made by mixing the cheese with sour cream. It's finished off with a salsa verde, a green sauce made with chopped parsley and tarragon. Capers are added for saltiness and tang  and garlic is added for more flavor. It's then ladled onto the eggs and hotcakes, giving them color. I don't see why some leftover Christmas ham can be slipped in between the eggs and hotcakes It would definitely make them more substantial. Chef Ottolenghi also suggests scattering mustard seeds on top too. If not, try a slight dusting of some sea salt and freshly ground pepper. If you want to  make it a tad healthier, use egg whites instead of the whole egg and use Greek yogurt instead of sour cream.

These are perfect breakfasts for any holiday brunch or breakfast.  Try them for a tasty and substantial first meal. They are a great way to start a winter's day.

Layers Of Perfection

Phyllo dough can be a tricky medium to work for many a home chef.  Purists will want to bake their own while those looking for a shortcut will buy it.  What makes for good flaky layers that works well with both savory and sweet dishes.

Famed chef and baker Yottam Ottolenghi posed this question on his article in today's New York Times Food section. His training in cooking school has allowed him to create the famed layers but not without flaws. Phyllo dough is simply flour ,salt and water mixed with olive oil and rolled out until it's paper thin.It's one of the world's oldest recipes and bread recipes.Chef Ottolenghi tried  with some of the best phyllo makers st one of the most celebrated baklava factories, Karakoy Gulloglu in Istanbul, Turkey The chief ,baker, Mustafa, a fifth generation baker, believes that a combination of "hard work, attention, meticulous care and love." It's more the meticulous care that creates the perfect sheets. . Do it wrong and you could wind up with holes as Chef Ottolenghi first had during his schooling. There is another way of  creating phyllo or warka as its' called in Morocco.It's similar to the way crepes are made using a red hot pan.The phyllo dough is tapped upon it until the pan is completely covered.. The chef learned the cheat way , thanks to a Moroccan home chef called Fouza. Put  a frying pan over boiling water and pour a scant amount of the  batter into the pan. The result is the perfect paper thin piece.

Another method is buying it, ready made , Chef Ottolenghi suggests getting a good brand, one that is of good quality. How can you tell? By the scrunch test. Scrunch a sheet in one hand. If it's of good quality , it'll spring apart. A bad piece will be brittle and will easily fall apart. Remember to liberally brush it with melted butter which allows the sheets to separate and rise in the oven.Work quickly when brushing them or they'll dry out. Chef Ottolenghi gives two recipes - one savory and one sweet. The savory is a feta and herb tart.It not only has the lightly tangy feta but also grated pecorino Romano cheese.mixed with such  herbs as tarragon, mint and parsley . An egg custard is made with four eggs, milk and cheese. The sweet version is  what else - baklava. except there's a twist.Chef Ottolenghi adds halloumi , the Egyptian version of mozzarella.It's mild and slightly salty - which cuts the sweetness of the rosewater drizzled on the tart. There still is the traditional filling of chopped walnuts mixed with cinnamon and nutmeg mixed together with melted butter. The baklava would make a lovely Mother's Day treat, thanks to sprinkling dried rose petals on top.

Phyllo dough can be made by any home chef. Beginners should try the warka way while more experienced can execute the traditional method. Then experiment with savory and sweet dishes.

It's Asparagus Season!!!

\One of the best things about late April and Spring is that it's peak season for one of nature's most delicious veggies - asparagus. This flavorful spear is excellent grilled or par boiled, served in soup and salad. It's also a wonderful canvas to work with, using lush ingredients to create a special dish.

David Tanis wrote about it inhis column  City Kitchen yesterday's New York Times Food section. This is asparagus season and there are many different types. He reminisces about eating the wild variety which grew along an irrigation ditch on a California ranch. It has the same look, taste and texture as the cultivated kind, It's more feral,  and not really wild, being indigenous to Europe.There's also white asparagus, big in Germany at this time of year.What's coming into the farmer's market this year is not coming from there but from Peru. They are tasty but take a bit longer to cook. For many home chefs in North America, the quick cooking green variety is the most preferred.It does come in different sizes., from pencil thin to jumbo fat with a nice medium in between. Any size should have smooth, shiny skin and tightly closed tips. Asparagus is versatile and can be served raw, charred or the preferable parboiling. The best way is simmering the stalks in salted water, drained at the right moment and served warm.

There are some good recipes included. Mr. Tanis gives us shaved asparagus salad with ginger and sesame. This may take some getting used to  since it's using the raw spears.It's pealing each one with a vegetable peeler and then cutting the asparagus into very thin - but  not paper thin - slices.Think the width of a thinly sliced onion.. They're then placed in a salad bowl and seasoned with salt and pepper.The dressing is a fiery mix of jalapeno, rice vinegar , ginger and garlic. Brown sugar is the surprising sweet factor. He also gives us the exotic dish of charred asparagus with green garlic chimmichurri sauce. It's first making the sauce which consists of chopped  parsley and chopped green garlic.Oregano and olive oil are also added. You do need the pencil thin asparagus that will be cooked on a grill or in a very hot cast-iron pan.It needs to be lightly oiled and salted first.It should not only be charred but burnt and blistered first. After cooking the sauce is poured on top of it.It's then topped with crumbled feta.The last recipe is steamed asparagus with pistachios and browned butter. It's just steaming the spears and then making a brown butter sauce that has the added zing of lemon juice. The asparagus is quickly bathed in it and then pistachio nuts are sprinkled onto the buttery spears.

Take advantage of the abundance of asparagus right now. Try it in a variety of different ways , from raw, to charred  to just simmered and served with a butter sauce. All are delicious.

Breakfast Of Love

Tomorrow is Valentine's Day and .although, it's on a Tuesday, you still can create a romantic breakfast for too. It's a nice way to start the day and to chase away a chill winter morning. Just add love.

Eggs are always a good way to go. It's a plus if you have a heart shape egg mold to make a romantic  looking sunny side up egg. It can be served with buttered toast, but think lusher with an English muffin, croissant or even a sliced brioche. The last two would be wonderful to soak up that rich yolk. Another perfect egg dish for your valentine is Eggs Benedict. You can make the original with Canadian bacon but if you want some variety, try chopped chorizo or maple infused pork sausage. Vegetarians would enjoy the florentine version , made with spinach.If you feel the Hollandaise sauce may be too much - especially on a work day, skip it. You could sub in cheese for a breakfast sandwich. Omelets are another sweet way of celebrating the day. Try the original French style that has a  crepe-like texture and shape.It's more the execution than what's in it. It's taking one tablespoon of butter and melting it into an omelet pan or skillet. It's then mixing the eggs in the pan and folding the solidifying mass into the shape of a business envelope. Fill it with either savory or sweet. The best is with fine herbs, a mix of tarragon, chives, parsley, dill and tarragon.

Of course,Valentine's Day is always about the sweet -and sometimes naughty. What better way to say  "I love you" or "You're special" than a homemade waffle. This is an easy recipe. It's basically a cup and a half of flour mixed with baking powder , eggs and a cup and a half of milk.Fresh waffles are great but if you don;t have the time, there are always Eggos. These can be jazzed up with a bourbon or brandy laced maple syrup or a maple butter. This last is super easy to whip up. It's just mixing unsalted butter with maple syrup, brown sugar ,and pumpkin pie spices. Make it half an hour before you  toast  or make the waffles . It can also go on another sweet breakfast treat  - French toast. This too is simple to make, yet sinfully good. It's just dipping sliced bread into a mixture of eggs,  milk and some spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg. The best French toast comes from baguettes or Italian bread. These loaves yield nicely chewy and dense toast, perfect for syrup and butter. Heart shaped pancakes are another perfect dish to wake up to. Serve with sliced strawberries and strawberry syrup. You could even spell out your initials in chopped strawberries.

Start the day of love off with a breakfast your sweetheart will surely love. It can be Eggs Benedict or waffles , drenched with bourbon maple syrup. Anything served will end in sweet romance.

Cleansing Moments

Palate cleansers may sound like they belong in the bygone aristocratic days of Downton Abbey, but they are relevant on today's table. They provide a refreshing  break from a  course that is too spicy or too gamey.They're also  a nice way of slowing down a party dinner, giving guests time to digest and relax a bit.

This mini-course came about from the Italians who named it intermezzo. Basically it's a very small plate served halfway through  a meal of several courses.It's usually a light two  bite affair. A true Italian one features light neutral flavors such as basil, mint or parsley. It can also be any piece of fruit, sparkling wine or a sorbet. The last is usually a liqueur, wine or fruit flavor. The French, too, enjoy palate cleansers. They have a slightly different belief about them than the Italians do. In the Gallic diet, the cleansing plate is not only to wash away any lingering strong flavors from the previous course but also to aid in digestion, avoid heartburn and stimulate the appetite for the next course. In Normandy,  the French province known for their apples, apple brandy or Calvados is used. It is a strong , fiery shot called trou Normand,  Palate cleansers should work with the cuisines.. They shouldn't be overpowering and leave an aftertaste of their own  the next course.If it's a homemade cleanser, then be sparing with the flavorings.Don't go  overboard .The taste buds only have to be refreshed , not hosed down.

What is a good palate cleanser? Sometimes it's just a glass of water, well chilled with ice. Sparkling water can also be used, usually graced with a slice of lemon or lime, Surprisingly enough tea can also be used.Try a lightly brewed green, black or mint tea with the barest of sweeteners.It can be served hot or cold, but for fall and winter feasts serve it hot and save the iced version for spring and summer meals.Celery sticks or sliced Granny Smith apples make wonderful , informal palate cleansers. Serve them on a fancy plate after the first course. A sprig of parsley can also work too. Most palate cleansers are usually sorbets. It's usually lemon, lime or mint and it's easy to make. It's just taking
one cup each of water, sugar,  lemon,or lime juice for the fruit sorbets. The mint requires one packed cup of chopped mint leaves two cups of water and two and a half cups of sugar. A quarter of a cup of sweet wine is also needed.It 's simmering over a low flame and then putting the liquid into an ice cream maker . One scoop is placed in a fancy silver or glass bowl and decorated with lemon, or lime zest for the fruit sorbets. The mint sorbet usually is decorated with a curled mint leaf.

A palate cleanser is a nice way to prepare the taste buds for the next course. Make it a sorbet or a plate of celery. It will be a hit with guests who want a refreshing change of pace.

Vive Le Cuisine Belgique!!

Belgian cuisine is as diverse as the country itself, influencing the world with their  chocolates,frites and waffles. There are also influences from neighboring countries of France, Holland and Germany, but reworked to a distinctly Belgian taste. It is a cuisine of the sea and the land, perfectly married together.

Belgium was one of the first ":manufactured" countries, having been established in 1830. The original people, the Belgae were a Celtic-Germanic mix of people.Through centuries and the French Revolution the country either belonged to France or The Netherlands.It  finally came into its own during the Belgian Revolution of 1830 when the  French  nationals of the country's southern region overthrew the despotic rule of the Dutch king William I. The Dutch influence is still felt in some of the cuisine, especially the seafood.Mussels or moules are huge  throughout the country and feature largely in stateside Belgian restaurants , especially in the Manhattan ones. A pot of steamed mussels in white wine,or moules Marniere  is a treat.It is a savory and briny blend of plump mussels steamed in white wine, garlic, tarragon and parsley. Some chefs add cream to it for more lushness. Eels are also popular  as they are served in an herbal green sauce, rich with spinach and parsley, tarragon and dill . Mint and sage are also added for more flavor along with an onion. A truly hearty dish is carbonade flamande,a take on the famed French dish, boeuf Bourguignon. It  loaded with beef and onions along with beer and mustard.Thyme and bay leaves are also added to it, and it's served with a crusty baguette.

Of course most of these dishes are served with the famed frites or fries, first made as early as 1760. This is where America gets its' fries from however there is a slight twist. Pomme frites are served with mayo along with other sauces that features tomatoes, garlic , peppers and pickles.. They are usually bought from friteries , stands or restaurants that feature them along with kebobs,carbonade flamade as well as meatballs , hamburgers and sausage.Many Belgian home chefs have fryers at home and make them fresh on a regular basis, using beef fat for the frying oil. This gives them a more meatier flavor. Waffles are another Belgian import, beloved around the world. The original recipe produces a lighter crisper version usually served with fresh whipped cream, strawberries and occasionally a dark chocolate sauce, Chocolate, too , has put the country squarely on the map of culinary contributors.It's been associated with the country since the 1630s when the country was under Spanish rule and raw cacao was being brought in from Mesoamerica. It was Belgian chocolatiers who gave us the praline, a chocolate dipped nougat and the fancy ballotin box.


Belgium cuisine has influenced the world. It's is an amazing blend of cuisines , and influences  melded together to  create a mouth watering array of savory and sweet . We have them to thank for our favorites, from our waffles to our fries to our chocolates.!


Stay strong Belgium, our hearts and thoughts are with you, toujours!

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The Easy Herb Garden

Home chefs think longingly think about starting a garden when the temps heat up. The problem with that idea is that it requires a lot of work. There's fertilizing, checking for aphids and fungus along with pruning and protecting fruits and veggies from hungry critters. Also many  don't have that green thumb that it takes to grow ruby red tomatoes and plump eggplants. An easier solution would be an herb garden. You can still have that fresh grown taste without all the problems of a regular garden.

One of the best things about herb gardening is that theywill be used in all sorts of dishes. Plant the ones that you use the most.You can also plant the easiest to grow too, but all herbs are easy to grow. , Remember , like other plants , they do need space.Rosemary , sage, mint and marjoram need three to four feet of space while basil, thyme, tarragon and savory need only two feet of land around them so reserve a plot of land for them in the back yard  and them. If you have very little land to work with then plant cilantro , dill, chives or parsley.Prep the soil with compost - leftover fruit and vegetable detritus , Herbs can also be grown in large pots on the patio. They can be clay or plastic and anywhere from 8" to 18" in diameter. You can combine herbs that have the same watering requirements in one pot .Fertilize with  herb or vegetable fertilizer. Dig deep holes for the plants and once planted, gently press down on the surrounding dirt. water when the dirt is dry  to the touch.They should also get four hours of sunshine on a daily basis. For harvesting cut off about 1/3 of the branches when the plant reaches between 6" to 8 " tall.

Home chefs get excited when their herb gardens start growing. They want to snip and cut, eager to scatter a handful in a salad or marinade.However there is a way to cut them and  to pick the right leaves to get their optimum flavor. Basil growers will tell you that the tastiest leaves are the smallest or the "baby" ones.Leave the larger ones. These are like the solar panels of the plant, keeping the stems and shoots  warm.Also gather herbs early in the day., after the dew has dried but before their essential oils  get baked by the midmorning sun(try anywhere between seven and eight AM).If you've collected stems then strip them of their leaves U
se a small scissor when you're dealing with parsley, bay or tansy.What about storage?. You can do what our colonial ancestors did and gather herbs in to a bouquet. Wrap ten to fifteen stems tightly together by either a rubber band or twine. Hang the bunches on a drying rack if you have one or make one. A plain old hanger works just as well as does a nail in a wall. Strip crisp dry leaves off of stems before hanging. Herbs can also be stored in  airtight glass or ceramic containers away from heat and light., They will last up to a year after picking.

Herbs are and easy was to include that just picked taste into any dish. It takes very little work to come up with a lush green plot that's full of fragrant leaves and stems. It's the perfect garden for a  busy home chef