A Briny Summer Treat Of Clams

No matter where it is in summer, there's nothing so welcome as seafood. Clams are a special pleasure , picking up spicing along with maintaining its' taste of the sea.One way that highlights this is steaming them. It's also easy cooking especially during these humid days.

Allison Roman highlighted these gems of the sea in yesterday's New York Times Food section. According to her clams are the best bivalves.Eaten raw, they are brinier, milder and cleaner than the oyster (both are natural water filters and there can be a residual taste of whatever they've filtered) Steamed, they're better than mussels because juicier, meaty and less fishier in flavor. Clams are wonderful cooked in a pool of toasted garlic oil, mixed with an acidic white wine. Larger clams can be picked from their shells and coarsely chopped. They could be then returned to the broth  with the addition of celery and chorizo. Ms. Roman spoons all of this on toasted crusty bread. she reminds home chefs to think small. Littleneck clams, the ones she recommends using , can come in all different sizes. They should be between the size of a grape and an apricot. However Manila clams, are also good. They are the smallest and would work well in the recipe. Another choice is cockles. These are a small clamlike bivalve that can be easily subbed into any clam recipe.

The recipe can be labor intensive for those not used to prepping seafood. Use a natural bristle kitchen brush or a brand new kitchen sponge to scrub the clams under running water. After they've been scrubbed and scrubbed again,let them sit in a bowl of cold water. This will allow any residual grit or sand to free itself from the shells.It'll just settle on the bottom of the bowl and can easily be tossed in the yard (the sand may clog up the drain). It's then heating up the oil, butter, and chorizo. If the last is too spicy  , consider plain sausage or better yet, bacon. as the butter melts and the pork renders its' fat, then add garlic and cook until it's turns a light toasty golden brown hue.Its then adding wine which should be very dry. Ms. Roman advises against using anything that's not overly oaky, sweet or creamy. Add two large stalks of  celery cut into thin strips, on the bias and cook until its' a bright green. Now it's time to toss in the clams and shake the pot so that they settle nicely. let them steam open and release their juices. Any unopened clam is considered dead and should be thrown away. serve the clams in a bowl over parsley chives and celery leaves. Serve with lemon and lime zest and pair with a , hot crusty slice of bread that's been rubbed with olive oil.

Clams are the perfect summer's night treat. Steam them with white wine, garlic, and butter. Enjoy their brininess and sweetness with crusty bread. It's a welcome flavor during these warm, balmy days.

A New Take On Pork Shoulder

If it's August , that means one thing - you've exhausted grilling every type and cut of meat available.However there's a cut of meat you may not have tried yet - or at least over an open fire. It's pork shoulder - usually a cut reserved braising on chill fall or freezing winter days. Surprisingly it's also perfect for summer eating too,

Alison Roman explored this new side of pork shoulder in yesterday's New York Times Food section.
Shoulder is usually reserved for braising in a Dutch oven.It's one of those cuts that gets retired during the warm weather, only to become popular in the fall when cool days arrive. Yet , this cut can be sliced into pork chop like pieces and grilled. They should be cooked hot and fast - not the typical one hour in a Dutch oven.This makes the fatty bits char and crisp, which only add to the flavor. Some may worry that this won't thoroughly cook the meat and make one sick. Not to fret.According
 to USDA, United States Department of Agriculture, pork can have an internal temperature of 145 degrees F to be considered safe. (have a meat thermometer handy to gauge the temperature). This should give you medium rare meat, perfectly pink and juicy.Flavoring them is a cinch. Try a sprinkle of sea salt and fresh ground pepper. Another variation is citrus juice, chili paste and fish sauce. They can be marinated for up to twenty-four hours in advance.

Preparing the meat may be a  bit more labor intensive . The pork shoulder should be cut crosswise into one inch thick steaks, Ms. Roman cautions that some pieces may not stay in the steak shape, depending on the cut and shape of the shoulder bought). Season with salt and pepper, place in either a shallow baking dish or resealable plastic bag. You can just leave it at this if you want just the pork flavor. For Ms. Roman's marinade combine fish sauce, light brown sugar and sambal -  hot chili paste, garlic and half a cup of lime juice, Mix in a bowl to dissolve the sugar.Pour half  the mixture over the chops and let marinate for fifteen to twenty minutes while the grill is being fired up. You don;t have to worry about leaving it out. That's fine. The grill at this point should be "screaming hot" as Ms. Roman puts it.Once on the grill, the pork should be a deepened brown color and lightly charred on both sides. Each side should be grilled for only two to four minutes each. Let stand in a  shallow baking dish and pour the rest of the marinade. Serve with rice noodles or rice. Top with lettuce , shallots and mint. Serve with grilled citrus for squeezing.

Try a pork shoulder chop for a new grilling experience. It's get you out of the barbecue doldrums  and into exciting new territory. Don;t wait for fall to eat it. It's perfect now for a summer meal.

Another Thanksgiving Issue

The New York Times Food section  has put out a second Thanksgiving issue. It's different in the than the first, rethinking time-tested recipes and putting new spins on them. There  are traditional veggies done differently along with a new way to cook that bird. It's a refreshing rethink of how to cook and bake for the big day.

All the big guns of the Food section have weighed in and written informative articles.One of the most interesting is Melissa Clark's. Her A Good Appetite  features splaying and searing the turkey as opposed to the traditional roasting. She decided to try the technique she uses on chicken on a much larger bird. Both are similar with the same amount of white and dark meat so the splaying technique that works with the smaller can help the larger. Is it easier than roasting? Yes, and it creates an evenly roasted turkey with silky and juicy white meat and perfectly cooked dark meat.Unlike spatchcocking , which requires intricate deboning, splaying is cutting the skin and then pulling on the thighs until you hear them pop out of their sockets. It's then laying them flat. Ms. Clark also pours wine on  the turkey for braising, although she suggests using any liquid , from cider to beer, diced tomatoes to  even water. What completes this? A platter of vibrant, green Brussels sprouts. Newcomer Alison Roman, a contributor to Bon Appetit magazine gives us them cooked in three tasty recipes. One is sauted with sausage and pickled red onions along ith one for honey roasted ones made exotic by the addition of harissa and lemon relish. More traditional home chefs may like the Brussels sprouts gratin bathed in a lush heavy cream and Gruyere cheese.

 Of course, there is a stuffing recipe. Kim Severson writes about a traditional cornbread one. It's a controversial one, with professional chefs  polarized about what kind of cornmeal - white or yellow - to use. There is a debate - which is sweeter?  She settles on the yellow for color and intense flavor. The recipe also includes  sugar along with buttermilk and butter to give it richness. The stuffing isn't entirely cornbread. There is also white bread used too along with the usual stuffing ingredients like onions,,sage and eggs. She bakes the stuffing separately and gives it extra flavor by pouring the  turkey drippings on it about thirty minutes into the baking time. For extra crunch and taste, there is also the addition of toasted pecans for real Southern flavor. Pecans also figure in David Tanis' A City Kitchen. He makes pecan rolls that have the extra sweetness of golden raisins.Instead of the usually gooey cream cheese frosting, he just dusts them with a mix of sugar and cinnamon. Make these the night before for a Thanksgiving breakfast treat. His other pecan recipes offer savory (!) cookies laden with cheese and sage and a dessert bar . The first is a great side to the first course of soup or a salad. The second is a yummy mix of pecans, dates, spices and rum on top of a buttery shortbread base.These are a nice stand in to the gooier, ultra sweet pecan pie.

Thanksgiving is all about tradition and traditional dishes. Yet , it pays to think outside the box and try new cooking techniques and recipes. It makes for a  more delicious and more memorable holiday meal.