Showing posts with label City Kitchen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label City Kitchen. Show all posts

Friday, June 1, 2018

Chicken Your Way

Chicken is one of the most versatile meats, especially now during barbecue season.It can be marinated , dipped in sauce or even coated to create a tasty lunch or dinner. What is great is that almost every flavor goes with it ,It could be citrus-y, garlicky or boozy. It will still come out flavorful.

Wings and legs are the best parts of the chicken for grilling. A whole one will have to be butterflied or spatchcocked to make sure every section is grilled. Grocery stores sell both and sometimes in a combined package. David Tanis wrote about wings in his City Kitchen column in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. He suggests getting the meatier wings or drumettes. It makes for a more filling eat. Less meatier pieces can be over marinated too , Meatier kinds soak a marinade but aren't overpowered by it. Do the pieces have to be prepped before being placed in any kind of sauce? No, in fact most chefs will tell you don't wash the pieces. Just start right away with what you want to do with them. The next step is deciding just what to do.. Longing for crunch ?  Then batter them and for a healthier chew  cook them on the grill. Marinating is another way to go. It's also a way to get creative with tweaking old recipes or create a new one. Another idea is just grilling the pieces and dipping them in any kind of sauce.

What ingredients work the best with wings and legs? Almost any kind. Mr. Tanis goes the Roman and Greek route with lemon and rosemary.Garlic and red pepper flakes give them zing. Although he bakes them on fingerling potatoes in the oven, they  can also be roasted on the grill. I would cook them separately and even would put the potatoes on the gill, for a crunchy , smoky side.  Lime can also be used  and is especially flavorful when mixed with soy and honey Orange can also add zing to chicken legs and wings. What is so great about this citrus fruit can be paired with honey for a sweet glaze or added to teriyaki sauce for a savory treat. Want more of a kick? Then use bourbon to spice it up.It's a sweet mix of the liquor and pineapple juice Hoisin and Worcestershire sauce are also added to balance out the flavors. Whiskey can also be used in a marinade. Just be sure that it's tempered with soy sauce or tamari.Another way to go is grill the chicken and dip the pieces into an old fashioned barbecue sauce. It 's a combination of ketchup, molasses and Worcestershire sauce with cayenne and garlic powders. You can add freshly chopped onions or onion powder along with shallots and scallions.


Chicken is a versatile meat that can be zinged up with any flavor.Try legs and wings in any combination for a tasty meal. Whatever ingredients work, go with them for a delicious barbecue.

Wednesday, November 9, 2016

Another Thanksgiving Issue

The New York Times Food section  has put out a second Thanksgiving issue. It's different in the than the first, rethinking time-tested recipes and putting new spins on them. There  are traditional veggies done differently along with a new way to cook that bird. It's a refreshing rethink of how to cook and bake for the big day.

All the big guns of the Food section have weighed in and written informative articles.One of the most interesting is Melissa Clark's. Her A Good Appetite  features splaying and searing the turkey as opposed to the traditional roasting. She decided to try the technique she uses on chicken on a much larger bird. Both are similar with the same amount of white and dark meat so the splaying technique that works with the smaller can help the larger. Is it easier than roasting? Yes, and it creates an evenly roasted turkey with silky and juicy white meat and perfectly cooked dark meat.Unlike spatchcocking , which requires intricate deboning, splaying is cutting the skin and then pulling on the thighs until you hear them pop out of their sockets. It's then laying them flat. Ms. Clark also pours wine on  the turkey for braising, although she suggests using any liquid , from cider to beer, diced tomatoes to  even water. What completes this? A platter of vibrant, green Brussels sprouts. Newcomer Alison Roman, a contributor to Bon Appetit magazine gives us them cooked in three tasty recipes. One is sauted with sausage and pickled red onions along ith one for honey roasted ones made exotic by the addition of harissa and lemon relish. More traditional home chefs may like the Brussels sprouts gratin bathed in a lush heavy cream and Gruyere cheese.

 Of course, there is a stuffing recipe. Kim Severson writes about a traditional cornbread one. It's a controversial one, with professional chefs  polarized about what kind of cornmeal - white or yellow - to use. There is a debate - which is sweeter?  She settles on the yellow for color and intense flavor. The recipe also includes  sugar along with buttermilk and butter to give it richness. The stuffing isn't entirely cornbread. There is also white bread used too along with the usual stuffing ingredients like onions,,sage and eggs. She bakes the stuffing separately and gives it extra flavor by pouring the  turkey drippings on it about thirty minutes into the baking time. For extra crunch and taste, there is also the addition of toasted pecans for real Southern flavor. Pecans also figure in David Tanis' A City Kitchen. He makes pecan rolls that have the extra sweetness of golden raisins.Instead of the usually gooey cream cheese frosting, he just dusts them with a mix of sugar and cinnamon. Make these the night before for a Thanksgiving breakfast treat. His other pecan recipes offer savory (!) cookies laden with cheese and sage and a dessert bar . The first is a great side to the first course of soup or a salad. The second is a yummy mix of pecans, dates, spices and rum on top of a buttery shortbread base.These are a nice stand in to the gooier, ultra sweet pecan pie.

Thanksgiving is all about tradition and traditional dishes. Yet , it pays to think outside the box and try new cooking techniques and recipes. It makes for a  more delicious and more memorable holiday meal.

Thursday, May 12, 2016

Fava Beans A Taste Of Spring

The season brings about a plethora of fresh tastes, letting us know Spring is here. The fava bean is one of those.Its' "green" flavor makes it perfect for everything from soups to pate.They're definitely a great addition to barbecues and al fresco dining.

David Tanis knows this and wrote about them in his City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Food section.This is the time for  them,late spring, and they are tender enough to eat with the pods still on.Fava beans should be incorporated into the diet. They are high in folate and manganese as well as being rich in dietary fiber.The beans are a staple in the Mediterranean diet and figure prominently in Italian, Greek and Spanish cuisines.They are great gracing a minestrone or in salads, thanks to their creamy texture and slightly nutty flavor.The only bad thing about them is ridding them of their pods.It's a tedious chore as Mr. Tanis can attest to. You can avoid this by getting immature pods with no beans inside. These outer coverings can be grilled and are just as versatile as the mature pods and can be grilled over coals or served a la plancha ,cooked on a griddle. They can also be stir fried in a hot work too along with being added to a Spring vegetable soup.. Peeling the older ones is tedious but worth it . Make the work easier by employing the family to help out and doing the day before using is a big help too.

Mr Tanis gives a lovely recipe with the beans being mashed on toasted baguettes slices. The beans have a silky texture that makes them wonderful as a kind of pate. He adds garlic cloves and red pepper along with rosemary. The pepper can be omitted if considered too hot. Try freshly ground black pepper instead. The beans  are first dropped into boiling water and then they're plunged into ice water. They have to be skinned when cooled and this is an easy task.Pierce the skin with  your thumb and then slip it off. These can be prepared up to a day in advance if you don't have the time to do it the day of.The fava beans are then sauteed in olive oil in a skillet over a medium hot heat.  They should be cooked for only a few minutes  but not browned. A half cup of water is added  and then the beans are simmered until softened. Do this for about ten minutes or until most of the water has been cooked off.You can use a potato masher (preferred) or a wooden spoon to roughly mash the favas.Return them to the stove  and cook on a medium heat. This is the time to add the pepper and rosemary along with a little water if the mash is too much. Transfer the bean mash to a warm bowl as you prepare  the baguette slices.Smear a tablespoon or more on each slice. You can drizzle some olive oil and a light sprinkling of sea salt on them if you want.

This is the time of year for fava beans. Make them in a tasty pate or add to  a Spring vegetable soup. They are a great addition to any dish.

Wednesday, August 26, 2015

An Easy Summer Sauce

We are in the middle of tomato season. This versatile fruit that masquerades as a veggie can be made into everything from a sandwich to a bowl of salsa. However it is best made into a tasty pasta sauce. The garden taste comes through, tangy and sweet, perfect for any pasta when made this way.

David Tanis believes this and wrote about it in his column  City Kitchen  in today's New York Times Food section.. One of the best aspects of homemade sauce is that you can make it and use it months from now. There will be that ripe taste in the middle of a cold winter. Even if you don't; have them in your backyard you still can get beauties at your local grocery store and get them cheap. According to Mr Tanis, this is another reason to make sauce. He suggests looking for ugly, cracked and large ones that are slightly bruised. These are cheaper due to these imperfections yet still  have a sweet, dense blood red flesh, perfect for sauce. Another suggestion is using plum tomatoes if you like their taste(slightly sweeter than the beefsteaks).The one standard he demands is that they be sun ripened. (remember home growers can also use the less than perfect ones from their gardens too instead of tossing them onto the mulch pile)

Prepping them  for sauce is easy. This is not the kind of recipe where home chefs don't; blanch and peel the tomatoes. What it does require is the surprising hand held grater, a gadget not necessarily associated with sauce making., Cut the tomatoes in halves or quarters and then squeeze out the seeds if you don't like a few in your sauce. Now place the cut side against the grater's large holes and gently rub until there's only tomato skin  left. Now add a pinch of sea salt, two tablespoons of olive oil along with a sprig of basil and a halved garlic clove. You can add tomato paste to thicken it for a more traditional textured sauce. Cook it in a low wide saucepan over a high heat. Once it starts to boil the lower the heat and let it simmer.It can be kept in the fridge for five days afterward or just frozen for later use down the line. . Mr Tanis recommends serving it with farfalle or penne, textured pasta that will hold the sauce but I can also see  it with bucatini,the thick tubular spaghetti.Serve with a sprinkle of pecorino or Romano  for the best summer dish  of the season.

Take advantage of tomato season and make this easy and delicious sauce. It's a great way of enjoying the harvest right now. Freeze some for later to have the taste of sun ripened tomatoes on a cold winter's night.
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Friday, August 23, 2013

The Time For Figs

Late summer brings a lot of fruit harvests. Right now it's the season for figs. Unlike peaches, and strawberries these can be an acquired taste, However fresh picked figs can be delicious as well as versatile. They can be used for meals as well as for desserts.

Dave Tanis had a field day with them and wrote about his  experiences in his Wednesday's City Kitchen's column in the  New York Times Dining section. Figs can a tough fruit to grasp. many are put off by their sweet earthy taste or many seeds.Unlike other summer fruit figs can go both sweet or savory according to Mr. Tanis. The best ones are from backyards. Store bought  ones tend to be under ripe which results in a hard green fig with a tendency to rot quickly. You can put them on a towel covered try to soften and ripen but this is iffy. Some will improve with age, some won't. It's a gamble but one well worth it.

Mr. Tanis gives us some great recipes. Imagine sun ripened figs with creamy goat cheese and salty prosciutto. This is a perfect Sunday evening dinner after a day at the beach or lake. You can also make an awesome vinaigrette with them or better yet encase them in a buttery crostata. Mr. Tanis prefers sliced figs  topping an almond cake which would make a nice summery dessert. Another suggestion is serving them with either creme fraiche or vanilla ice cream.

If you want a different kind of   summer fruit veer towards figs .They are good paired with almost everything from wafer thin cured ham to scoops of ice cream. Try them for their earthy sweetness and tender but juicy flesh,.

Thursday, January 10, 2013

The Spice of Sri Lanka Cooking

Sri Lanka conjures up bright colors and fiery spices.The same is true for their foods. They are hot yet sweet, flavorful yet full of regular ingredients. A dish from this tropical island is the perfect antidote for a cold day's dinner.

Dave Tanis tried Sri Lankan food in his City Kitchen  column in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. His recipe is the tasty and flavorful coconut chicken curry with cashews. This is a meal to make either for guests or simply for a regular weekday. it;s also the perfect chill chaser with turmeric and cayenne to give it heat. Sri Lankan food is similar to Southern Indian food  and the dish is laced with the spicy coriander and, cardamon and ginger.> Cashews are added for crunch and  they work well with the chicken , Tanis uses.

Sri Lankan food is pretty easy to make, especially if you're familiar with cooking  southern Indian food. it is highly spiced, perfect to go with the tea the island is known for (remember  that Sri Lanka was formerly known as  Ceylon and was a huge tea colony under British rule)Cashews are also a hallmark of the cuisine and the Portuguese who also ruled the island in the 1600's. Coconut milk is also used in the dish. Rice is usually served.with it but if you want you can also serve roti to scoop up the sauce and meat.

There's nothing like a fragrant hot meal from an exotic country to liven up a winter's table. Try this dish to give color and flavor to your dinner or party. It's like a culinary vacation for your palate.

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Reclaiming Quiche

Quiche is one of those foods that goes through waves of popularity. It was hot from t he Sixties to the Eighties and then fell out of favor. Some restaurants serve it still as do grocery stories, however' the recipe is so far from the original, that's it not really quiche. That's about to change. Some new recipes are emerging that restore the dish back to all its' Gallic glory.

It was the topic of an article in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. City Kitchen by Dave Tanis. Mr. Tanis explores true quiches, those light , eggy pies with even lighter and crispy crusts, These are the closest f not the exact of what French groceries sell as well as what is made in homes. What makes them lighter is what they're baked in. Most Americans bake kitchens in deep dish pie plates. Don't!This ruins the texture. Bake any quiche in a shallow dish with a removable bottom.This ensures a creamy filling with a slightly unctuous or oild texture.

Mr. Tanis gives some good recipes Of course he includes the classic quiche Lorraine,..However instead of the usual ham he suggests bacon along with Gruyere instead of the usual Swiss.There is also a tasty crab meat one that;s seasoned with fresh tarragon and chives. The trio is rounded out by a quiche with herbs and goat cheese.It has scallions and thyme along with parsley. There is a double surprise of lemon zest and the goat cheese placed at the quiche's bottom. These are great for not only Sunday brunches but for a Saturday night dinner too.

Qucihes made right are wonderful. Use these recipes with the proper baking equipment to create a true Gallic tarte salee or savory quiche. It's like tasting the best that France has to offer

Thursday, June 7, 2012

Green Season

Now that summer is more or less officially here, it's time to take advantage of the produce of the season. Both Dave Tanis and Melissa Clark have done just this. Their respective columns City Kitchen and A Good Appetite in yesterday's New York Times Dining section reflect the produce now being sold at farm stands and farmer's markets throughout the country.

Dave Tanis celebrates the season with green gnocchi. The famed Northern Italian dumplings are usually a winter dish served with tomato sauce . However he mixes them up with a green pea sauce. Made with fresh spring peas sage, leeks along with garlic and Pecorino cheese,It's basically a sage butter sauce, with the sweetness of the peas and sharpness of the leeks. He also includes the recipe for homemade gnocchi which are easily made with Yukon Gold potatoes. These have some oomph to them thanks to Mr , Tanis adding nutmeg and garlic to them.

Of course he can also try the gnocchi with a garlicky salsa verde (which probably is often served in Northern Italy) that Melissa Clark made for her A Good Appetite column, Right now is green garlic season and she writes about it.Unlike regular garlic, they look more like leeks and sold in bunches. It can be used at any stage. The  stalks can be made like scallions and are good in soups dips and dressings The more mature cloves are great in anything from sauces to studding roasts. It works well in the fresh and verdant tasting salsa verde which Ms Clark uses as a sauce for seared pork chops. This can also be used for chicken, beef, fish or even a crusty toasted Italian or French bread.

This is the season for fresh green produce. These recipes prove it with fresh green peas and green garlic. Try these recipes or make up your own with these good greens of the season

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

A Spring Hit Onion Tart

Nothing heralds Spring like a good quiche or savory tart. One that fits the bill in an onion one, chock full of flavor.It's perfect for an Easter brunch and also perfect for a light dinner.It's also easy to make and great served as leftovers.

This treat was the subject of Dave Tanis' City Kitchen in today's New York Times Dining section. Mr/. Tanis gives the recipe for a Spring favorite that is rich with onions and also fromage blanche along with creme fraiche and bacon. It's sort of like an Alsatian pizza, made with scraps of dough left over from baking day., The Germans make something similar called zweibelkugen or onion cake, however theirs is more eggy and quiche like.

The tart is easy to make. Again it's based on the same premise as pizza . Mr. Tanis offers his variation with ricotta and picheline olives for a vegetarian version. He also adds a sprinkle of caraway seeds for a  nice aromatic touch. I would probably add more onion  and even some tomatoes for a little zing, Another variant could be ham or smoked French sausage. The crust would be the same,perhaps brushed with a little butter for color and flavor.

 A tasty and fresh from the oven onion tart is a nice way  to usher in Spring. It's the perfect to have at a holiday brunch or even for an evening meal

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Odd Bedfellows

Mushroom and barley? OK, Prunes and pork - maybe not so usual. These combos made yesterday's new York Times Dining section's columns A Good Appetite and City Kitchen respectively. To some they're not unusual , to rather staid foodies, they're worth trying.

Melissa Clark did not put her mushroom and barley into the usual. soup. Instead she skewed them into a salad, adding celery and celery root too. The mushrooms were not the typical soup kind but a mix of cremini , oyster and hedgehog  cut into bite sized pieces.They were also browned and crispy adding crunch  to the mix. Ms,Clark cooked the barley as she would have pasta so that it wouldn't clump and ruin the salad. A homemade scallion vinaigrette that had celery leaves added was poured over it for a light refreshing onion-y taste.

The second pairing that Dave Tanis of City Kitchen created, prunes and pork may seem odd however it's part of some French and German provincial dishes. In fact the dish featured was French , porc aux pruneaux .It's just simply  a pork roast with red wine doused prunes. This is a cozy kind of bistro dish that also has berries and peppercorns that Mr. Tanis  added for spice and sweet. While the meat is roasting the prunes are simmering with port or even Madeira along with butter and shallots.It's a simple enough  dish yet perfect for a Saturday night dinner party.

Mushroom and barley salad? A bistro like creation featuring pork and prunes?.At first glance they may not go, however they are perfect complements to each other's tastes and textures.

Thursday, February 23, 2012

A Hot Curry For A Cold Night

These are the nights for a fiery curry to warm us up after a chilly day out. It's like a quick vacation to a warmer climate where there are fragrant spices wafting through the air,It melds the familiar and exotic into a tasty dish that anyone will like. Not only that it;s an escape from the all too usual stews and chilis usually made around this time of year.

Curry was the topic of  David Tanis's City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Dining section. He creates a lamb curry that anyone from chef to novice can easily make.It's marinated lamb chunks  that have been flavored with garlic, tumeric, and cumin along with cayenne for heat. The spices should be ground with a microplane so their full flavor can be appreciated. The mixture is then browned in the traditional  Indian butter ghee in a Dutch oven. Onions are also  added for some sweetness  as is a ground cinnamon stick.

Mr.Tannis suggests a carrot  raita as a side dish. This is a traditional Indian yogurt full of more rich spices and a blend of flavors. Raita calls for mustard seeds that have been heated in hot oil until they pop.  Garlic and  cumin are also added along with the grated carrots , fresh mint , chives and cilantro. For a cooler version to counteract the curry's fire  try a simple cucumber based one that is devoid of the spices but imparts a clean , refreshing taste. Another authentic touch is adding basmati rice or Indian bread such as naan to scoop up the curry.

A lamb curry is a different spin on the traditional winter dishes such as stew and chili. Its' spices and flavors evoke  warmer climes and bright colors a, contrast to the season's drab landscape. It has a different kind of heat that perfect for these chill winter nights.

Thursday, February 16, 2012

Wintry Twists On Two Old Favorites

Winter can be a time for experimenting with favorite foods. There's nothing like tweaking to create a new or better dish, one that is satisfying for  dinner.  Yesterday's  New York Times Dining section does just this. it offers a really interesting spin on chili and also on a summer classic  - fennel. They're a variation of their classic selves  and variations that liven up chilly grey days.

The first is a lamb chili. Melissa Clark decided to add this usually Middle Eastern meat to the classic Mexican in her A Good Appetite column, She added some Gallic flair by using white beans , as they do what French lamb stews as opposed to the usual red ones.Also more jalapeno was added to give the mild meat some bite. Cumin and coriander were also thrown in, perhaps a nod to the meat's strong Eastern Mediterranean background. She served it not with sour cream but with yogurt made form ewe's milk. The result was a chili both earthy and light .

The article directly below it, David Tanis' City Kitchen was about that all time summer fave fennel. Fennel is a great licorice flavored root, perfect for dipping in a vinaigrette. Here he bakes it, in a fennel al forno. He briefly blanches the chopped root and then bakes it with Parmesan,  and mozzarella cheeses along with peperoncino, garlic and surprisingly enough fennel seed to accentuate its' sweet , resonant flavor.It's  the perfect dish for vegetarians or as a side to any chicken or pork loin. Remember that any vegetable - and not just fennel can be made this way. You can try an onion or even a potato al forno for something different.

One classic dish and one classic root get comepletely different twists. The result may sound shocking but in fac they're delicious.Creating these new dishes are a perfect way to chase away culinary winter doldrums.

Thursday, January 26, 2012

Catches Of The Day

Homemade seafood dishes are always tricky to make. They can come out too oily or too dry. The meat is sometimes too tender and can turn to mush thanks to the wrong recipe. Luckily yesterday's New York Times Dining section helps with this situation. The two sections, City Kitchen and A Good Appetite tackle a crab salad and roasted fish. Thanks to these two gems, seafood novices can create perfect and delicious dishes.

Dave Tanis conquers crab salad in his City Kitchen column. Crab salad, is one of those throwbacks to Mid Century American cooking where it was made with huge dollops of mayo and lemon.It was then served on a bland leaf of iceberg lettuce with either a tomato or lemon wedge as decoration. Mr. Tanis updates it for the 21st Century. He first starts with Dungeness crab, perfect because it is the season for them on their native California coast. Instead of the traditional mayonnaise he starts with a double boiled dressing ,made with cream , egg yolks and lemon juice. He then adds olive oil and Dijon mustard for more flavor. This goes over a  salad of fresh lump crab along with the nontraditional Belgian endive, chicory , radicchio and arugula. The salad  is a perfect Sunday brunch dish or a Saturday luncheon with the girls one.

The next is from Melissa Clark, In her  A Good Appetite  column, she tackles roasted sea bass. She adds a spicy and fiery twist with lime salsa verde. Ms. Clark does offer very good advice on picking a good fish.Look it in the eye .If the eyes are cloudy and sunken, don't buy it .If they're clear and bright, it means the fish is a fresh catch and perfect for cooking. Also, although this sounds clicheish, the smell, is another important  factor  in purchasing it. Newly caught does not have an odor.There should be some kind of one however it should  be clean and saline smelling  and not fishy. Another good tip she offers is having the fishmonger lop off  the head if you or your guests are squeamish about dinner staring up at you. Each fish should weigh up to one and a half pounds as well. A  fish such as a sea bass should be roasted at 450 degrees for fifteen minutes tops.don;t over cook, because it'll result in a platter of dried. splintered meat.

Fish dishes are not difficult. In fact , they are easy to prepare and cook. Don't be afraid to try them and miss out on some truly delicious dining.