A Warming Stew

 This is the time of year when a good stew is needed. It should go right to the heart and warm everything after a chilly day. One is a simple veggie stew with the addition of Berbere spice . It may be exotic but there's something homey and comforting about it's earthy deep taste.

I used it when I made a large vegetable stew the other night. I wanted something exotic and delicious- something different than the usual garlic and oregano mix.. I mixed with with onion and garlic powders

I used about three heaping tablespoons of it compared to a teaspoon each of the other.The base of the stew is olive oil and Country Crock plant butter.

As for the liquid a whole container of Acme's Organics vegetable broth does it otherwise the veggies can be too intense.

Shallots were first added sauteed in the oil and butter 

As for the veggies. Everything was thrown in the pot. I have an excellent fresh market in my neighborhood. Japanese eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes ,orange bell peppers and  cubed boiled potatoes were first sauteed and then bathed in the broth.It did need protein.

Red beans and their water were added to it.

The veggies went from this to this:

It took maybe half an hour of cooking to thoroughly cook the veggies and gravy. You could add some peanuts to it for a more African vibe.

It was an excellent bowl of warming goodness. The Berbere spice adds a whole new layer to the various vegetable flavors. I would recommend using it in a dry rub for chicken too. The stew was the perfect dish on a cold December night.,

A warming stew with exotic  spice is the perfect antidote for a chilly evening. Make it and enjoy a delicious spoonful of heat and flavor. It's perfect for this season.

J 'Aime Tarragon

 One of those herbs that is over used and underestimated is tarragon. It can be employed in a variety f different dishes. You can use it to season chicken or Cornish hen or add zing to mayo. There's so many fun recipes with it.

I was glad to get the plant (which I highlighted in Saturday's post). Tarragon has a wonderful flavor both dried and fresh.Use it fresh if you have the plant.

What is it exactly? It's formal name is estragon and grows wild throughout Euope and North America. What home gardeners grow is really French tarragon. There is also Russian tarragon which is a hardier and more robust plant. Freshly picked leaves have a licorice - anise type of flavor.I've used them in mayo. They worked and the condiment was good slathered on  plant based chicken patties. However in the future I plan on using my Mom's herb grinder to make tarragon flakes.

I like tarragon in mayo but you can also try it in a creamy sauce,made with whole cream, lemon, shallots  and butter. Chicken breasts are cooked in this and you could serve them over herbed rice or pasta. Salmon also benefits from the herb.Think of combining the fresh leaves with a mix of Dijon mustard, mayo and lemon juice along with a pinch of sugar. Spoon over grilled salmon for a delicious dinner. Keep in mind that the herb is perfect in both viniagrettes and creamy salad dressings.I'ts usually mixed with Dijon mustard and extra virgin olive oil. You could add shallots for color.This would also be good over grilled veggies like eggplant and tomatoes for a different spin on a summer salad.

Plant tarragon to boost your summer cooking and grilling.Its' flavor lends an earthy sweetnss to any dish and elevates it. This silvery leafed plant is the perfect addition to any dish.

Remembering With Comfort Food

 How do we honor our relatives long gone?At this time of the year Christians places palm crosses on their graves for Palm Sunday. The Chinese have another tradition for a Spring holy day that honors family.Quingming or Tomb Sweeping Day is when food and family entwine.

Regular contributor and author of Made In Taiwan (Simon Element Publishing) Clarissa Wei wrote about this vry ancient holday day in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Quingming or Tomb sweeping day goes back 2,500 years as a  Chinese folk practice.It's very similar to the Mexican tradition of Dios de Muertos or Day  of the Dead on November 1st. It's celebrated on April 5th this year and followed by those of Chinese origin throughout the world. However the actual act of sweeping tombs is becoming obsolete thanks to tombs being phased out. Goverments across Eastern and southeastern asia have phased these opts pusing for creamtion instead there are columbarium, structures that can store thousands of cremation urns. Even though these structures are cleaned regularly , families still leave offering of flowers, fruit and homemade dishes. Years ago families would bring a whole roasted suckling pig to the cemetery to first offer to the ancestors and then feed themselves. Now it's much smaller offering with simple pots or plates of food. Some even leave fast food which is frowned upon because the ancestors would not like it. The sprits would be tortured according to Nancy Fam, a Malaysian Chinese.

Ms. Wei offers different recipes gathered from various families. She has sweet and sour fish from Gemma Lin. This is striped sea bass is wok fried after being marinaded in rice wine and stuffed with scallions and ginger.It's served with a zingy tomato paste sauce that also has white vinegar , soy sauce and ones birds eye chile Yellow bell peppers and cucumbers are also added.  Cherry Tang  whose uncles brought suckling pig to their ancestors' tomb has siu yuk or crispy pork belly .This is an eleaborate dish that does take two days to create. It's first boiling the cut in a mix of water, Shaoxing wine , scallions, star anise and ginger along with white peppercorns. This is left to simmer for an hour and then left to cool afterwards. The pork belly sis then rubbed with five spice powder, grown ginger and ground white pepper. This is left to sit in the fridge for eighteen hours and then roasted in tin foil in a 450 degree Farenheit.Nancy Lam gives us chicken rice with shallot sauce.This is boiling a whole chicken in a blend of ginger, scallions and water for twenty five minutes. Reserve a tablespoon of the broth . Put the chicken in a large ice bath and then prepare the sauce. This  is a mix of shallots, jalapenos, ground bean sauce and sugar. Lime juice is added for some punch. The chicken is slcied and served over rice with the sauce.

There are many ways to honor relatives long gone. Tomb sweeping day is one of those, families honor those who came before them with good food and honor.

Add Some Spice To Thanksgiving

 Thanksgiving dinner is traditionally American despite us being a country of many nationaltites. its's the same oldbird and mashed potatoes  with some tables offering green bean cassetole. What about chainging it up a bit? Add some of that international spice to this all American meal.

One of the most interesting ways to change it up is varying the turkey. Most home chefs rub the bird with butter and just season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. This is fine but it lacks some spark. Think about adding some oregano and lemon for a Mediterranean twist.Use about two tablespoons of fresh or dried oregano and use in a salt rub. It's then basted with a combination of lemon oil and olive oil. For a reslly different flavor try the Szechuan five spice as a rub.It can be bought or made at home. it's a mix of Szechuan peppercorns, star anise,cloves cinnamon and fennelk seeds.it's rubbing the skin with it before cooking. As for the stuffing keep with the Asian theme. Try a sticky rice one with Chinese or sweet rice, shiitake mushrooms, along with shallots and water chesnuts. You can add the Chinese wine shaoxing wine along with soy sauce and cooked vaccuum sealed chestnuts. The recipe calls for soaking the rice overnight and then steaming it until it's translucent.everything is then fried in a skillet with peanut or olive oil.

Changing up the turkey may be too much for some . what about changing the sides instead. The New York Times food section has a yuca recipe that sounds intriguing. Yuca is a  South American tuber which looks like a sweet potato but has white flesh.On it's own it has a mild nutty taste but garlic, milk and butter is added to give it a tasty , creamy flavor. Yuca does require work. All the layers and veins have to be peeled off until all the flesh is showing. It's then cut into thirds, and boiled in water with garlic.Once boiled the milk and butter is added and its mashedlike potatoes.Broccoli is almost always on the Thanksgiving table. It's usually drenched in cheese or butter. Try spicing it uo with curry fior a different flavor. Cook it air fried or sheet pan style for crispiness.As for the curry paste you can control the heat . If you're family likes fiery then gets the strongest or most intense version. If they are averse to any kind of heat, don;t worry . You can always use garam masala instead.Ginger powder is also used but this can be omitted too. The broccoli is tossed int e spcies and then roasted.

Thanksgiving may be an American meal but it can have international influence. Spike up the bird or the sides for a more memorable holiday. it's a nice change up from the usual.

A Sustainable Garden

It may be only late January but it's time to think about vegetable gardens. You can start planning a sustainable one for the Spring. Not only will you help in locavore cooking you'll be helping the planet too.

One of the most fun things about gardening is planning it with your family. Include the kids in it and they will not only learn more about green gardening they'll also take an interest in green cooking too. How to start? Give your backyard a really good look. Where do you want this garden? In a bright sunny patch? Out of the way of foot traffic? Bordering the patio? Of course take in consideration where  what you choose will survive. Then begin drawing up specs and  sketches about where you want the plants. Consider building small protective fences with repurposed wood along with building a compost heap for your food scrape and grass clippings. Next decide what you want to grow. Try opting for native climate-appropriate ones. You may want to check natural areas such as woodlands along with getting advice from local garden experts. The last is also the best bet for shopping for shoots and seeds. Make sure that your chosen veggies are hardy and high yielding inside your climatic soil and elevation.

What veggies should you grow? The ones that you like however there are certain ones that work well in a sustainable garden. Tomatoes are always popular and you can save the seeds for late summer planting or for the next year. They are so versatile, going from freshly eaten with just sea salt to sauces , sandwiches and salads. Cherry tomatoes are a fun grow for little gardeners and just a fun snack. Another easy grow are shallots. They have the same flavor as their cousin - the onion - and can be used in everything from salads to stir fries. A plus is that they take up half the space that the onion would in a garden. They also require less care too. Garlic is another easy plant and can even be raised in pots around the patio. The bulbs are an easy harvest and you can harvest one bulb while letting the others mature. As we all know garlic is one of the best additions to any savory dish. Try fresh bulbs in the famed Italian sauce aglia olio or roast garlic cloves on the grill, adding them to salads or marinades. Leafy greens meaning any kind of lettuce is a plus. They can be Romaine for Caesar salads or iceberg for a tasty wedge drench in blue cheese. Another veggie is the beet. This is an easy grow and can be made into a tasty sweet salad for summer barbecues.

It may be winter but it's time to start thinking of  sustainable gardens. Deciding what you want to do and want to plant will save time later on. Plot and choose now for a veggie patch that will not only benefit your family but also the Earth too.

Cooking With Alliums

Want to zing up your Saturday suppers? Or turn your blah weekday meal into something sophisticated and elevated? Then try the allium family. What or who are they? The best friends a home chef could have.

The allium family have long been beloved to chefs and cooks all over the world.The family consists of garlic, onions, scallions and leeks along with shallots and chives. People have been cooking with them since ancient times. The early Egyptians even worshipped one - garlic -place whole bulbs of them in front of King Tutankhamun, the Boy King. Onions too, have been in the kitchen for five thousand years, mainly being used in China and India. The family is a must have for eating healthy.
They can detox the body thanks to being mostly organosulfur compounds - namely sulfur which acts as an anti-inflammatory agent. This lowers the risk of cancer and protects normal cells from becoming mutant ones.Alliums are also high in glutathiones, an important nutrient that protects the body from cellular damage.it also boosts immunity and lowers the risk of heart attack. Again this also detoxifies the body, helping to lower diabetes and cancer. A weekly dose of scallions or shallots also helps in protecting the heart as well.Green onions alone can regulate blood sugar and protect from peptic ulcers thanks to inhibiting bacterial growth in the stomach's lining.


One thing about any of the alliums. They are extremely versatile in the kitchen. Onions can go into everything from tarts to salads. A fun Sunday brunch recipe is zweibelkuchen or onion pie. This Swabian recipe, usually made in the autumn but can be baked year round consists of a yeast dough topped with buttery, caramelized onions, Black Forest bacon and an eggy quiche like filling.It's usually served with grape must. For a lighter dish try a tomato , cucumber and onion salad. It's not only has flavor but also bright colors , perfect for a barbecue side dish. The flavoring is unusual, a mix of salt and sugar blended with tarragon. Another tasty side is Neopolitan bread salad, that has sliced onions sharing a bowl with tomatoes and cubes of stale Italian bread.Scallions are a healthy and refreshing way to liven up any dish. An easy one with a definite Chinese flavor is chopped scallions fried with ground beef and garlic served over a bed of rice or cellophane noodles. You can sub in soy beef crumbles for the meat for healthier fare. Add a good two cups of chopped scallions to a  pound of meat. Shallots, similar to scallions, are perfect in chicken dishes.Its' delicate flavor is perfect for poultry and even good in chicken soup.As for chives, they are any potato's mate. Try Hassleback potatoes or a liberal sprinkling on a bowl of mashed potatoes.

Alliums are a kitchen must have. They are not only good for you but good for any savory recipe. Try them in a variety of different ones this Spring season.

Melissa Clark's Thanksgiving Issue

Thanksgiving is just around the corner and with it brings recipe anxiety. Many home chefs are wondering what to cook and how to cook it. There's also the problem of finding new dishes to liven up the meal. Not to worry. Melissa Clark comes to rescue,

She was the star  - and rightly so - of today's New York Times Wednesday Food section. She has contributed some of the paper's best recipes along with great advice for several years.It's no wonder.Cooking  is in her veins. Her chief influence were her parents who were also creative with recipes. The one that has her father's influence is her roast turkey with garlic, rosemary  and anchovies. He didn't like cooking a bland bird, threatening to sub in something else like a leg of lamb. His daughter takes it a step further and treats the turkey as if it were a leg of lamb. She pierces the legs all over  and stuffs the tiny  slits with a paste of garlic ,rosemary and anchovies. This is also rubbed all over the rest of the bird as well.  This also makes for a more fragrant gravy too.The bird sits for an hour before being popped into a 450 F degree oven.Of course stuffing has to come with it. Hers is made with rich  buttery brioche and roasted peeled chestnuts. As with any stuffing, sage and  thyme are added. Ms. Clark uses fresh for maximum flavor. Another must is chicken or turkey stock,It has to be homemade for the best taste. Season it with leeks and parsley tops .

Sides are always important to the Thanksgiving meal.Again Ms. Clark knows how to elevate the humble cranberry, turning it into a  dinner table star. She takes her Aunt Sandy's recipe, originally from a magazine and updates it. Gone is the orange that gave the berries some tang. In its place is pomegranate There are also pistachios for crunch and more color. Instead of sugar she makes it healthier by subbing in half a cup of honey.Other dishes are mashed sweet potatoes with bourbon(!) and brown sugar along with broccoli with fried shallots and olives. These would definitely be eye openers at any table, thanks to the different spin on them.Every holiday table has to have potatoes and salad. Again, Ms. Clark does not disappoint with her recipes.The potatoes are slathered in a duck fat confit , made fragrant with thyme, sage and garlic. The result is a crisp on the outside, fluffy on the inside potato that will sure to be a hit. Her salad has anchovy  - again-blended with lemon juice and parsley. This is a great dressing to make for weeknight salads too. Pie is de rigeur . Her pumpkin pie is laced with rum along with ginger and star anise.Four egg yolks give the filling richness. To gild the lily even more there is a ginger ice cream recipe, zinged up with fresh ginger and cinnamon.It's perfect with the pie, as it's decorated with candied ginger.

Follow Ms. Clark's recipes for a fun twist on a classic holiday meal. The result is a tasty dinner , from beginning to end. Try all of them - or just try one or two for a unique Thanksgiving.

Lamb The New Easter Dish Again

Easter cooking can present a dilemma to many home chefs. Will they go with the traditional ham or try  lamb , another truly traditional main course? That's the conumdrum facing many. Ham is delicious and can provide with enough leftovers for a week. Lamb,  is rich tasting, marrying ancient and modern times together. It's also becoming trendy thanks to a more adventurous American palate.

Kim Severson explores the two in her column in today's New York Times Food section. She herself grew up on Easter ham dinners, thanks to a mother who was raised on a dairy farm that also raised pigs. Serving ham was a no brainer.It also provided her family with more than enough leftovers for a variety of different dishes, from sandwiches to pea soup.However it is time to try lamb. It's making a comeback with a newer generation who are into Eastern Mediterranean and Middle Eastern dishes and flavors. Most older Americans have an aversion to the meat ,preferring beef and pork. One of the reasons why is that US soldiers were fed rations of lamb because the meat was so abundant. There were fifty-six million sheep  in 1946. Now there is only about six million.Lamb chops themselves,  are still considered a luxury item, only being served at high priced restaurants or special dinners at home.Leg of lamb can be tricky to cook and many home chefs just cooked it and slapped some mint jelly on it, hoping for the best.Today lamb is gaining in popularity with people buying lamb shanks,
lamb necks, and ribs.There is even a lamb ham that's also gaining in popularity these days.

How should you cook lamb? Ms. Severson goes back to her Italian roots and tries a Roman style Spring lamb with sugar snap peas. She gets three pounds of young lamb from the shoulder or the leg and  cuts it into uniform two inch cubes. After seasoning the cubes with salt and pepper, they're cooked in lard or olive oil. it's an easy cook, putting the cubes in batches and sauteing them. Rosemary and garlic are added along with sifted flour. White wine or Champagne is poured in along with water. It's simmered for an hour. At this point take some of the sauce from it and mix it with four large anchovy fillets (it reminds me of fileto Piedmontese - where anchovies are cooked with steak juices to create a mouthwatering sauce). The sauce is then poured back into the pan and over the lamb cubes. Ms. Severson throws in a  sugar snap pea salad with Calabrian peppers and fennel. This is a spicy accompaniment with a dressing made from the peppers and their oil.Lemon zest, shallot and garlic are also added along with fresh lemon juice.The snap peas are julienned while the fennel is thinly shaved. Shaved pecorino is then sprinkled on top. I would add fingerling potatoes roasted in garlic and olive oil  to round it out.

Ham may be associated with Easter but lamb now is giving the traditional meat its' run. It is versatile and delicious, perfect for the holiday. Try it and taste its richness and lux flavor.

Red , White And Berry

Berries are everywhere right now, from straw to blue. Most foodies eat them plain or with a good dollop of whipped cream yet they're versatile in everything, from salads to all sorts of desserts.Try them in barbecue sauce or in a fresh summer salad.

Of course berries are used in baking. Strawberries, raspberries and blueberries are popular this weekend  because of their patriotic colors. Melissa Clark wrote about them in her A Good Appetite column in Wednesday's New York Times Food section, She arranged them in festive red and blue stripes in a buckwheat (!) cake made with buttermilk  The fruit adds a nice tartness because it's been baked and absorbed by the crumb. Another fun Fourth idea is making either a chocolate or vanilla sheet cake , icing it with whipped cream and decorate with berries to create the Stars And Stripes.It's a fun end to a barbecue. The idea can be carried over to cupcakes. Cupcakes can also be filled with a mix of chopped fruit and cream or pudding for a neat surprise.One of the easiest desserts to make with any berry is the crisp.It's cooking the fruit with a crunchy topping of brown sugar, butter and cinnamon.Usually made with apples the recipe can be expanded to include blackberries, blueberries and strawberries. Cobblers are another great summer dessert that highlight any berry's juiciness. They're a bit more involved than a crisp , resembling a cake but they are still easy enough to bake on a hot summer's day. For a cooler treat think berry infused sorbets or old fashioned ice cream with whole cream and fresh produce.

Not surprisingly berries can be used in savory dishes as well.Salads always benefit from them, whether as a tangy dressing or a zesty addition, One tasty mix is taking half a pound of strawberries and mixing them with honey, apple cider vinegar and olive oil. Use it for dressing a grilled chicken and spring green salad. Blackberries and even blueberries would not only add some sweetness but also color to a steak salad. Toss a few in with some chopped  bell peppers and grape tomatoes for a spin on a classic salad. Any berry can be used in barbecue sauce.Imagine a raspberry barbecue sauce slathered on ribs. The sauce is easy to make. Take a cup of raspberries and blend with a variety of sweeteners such as brown sugar, molasses and light corn syrup. Garlic , red pepper and onion flakes zing it up.The base is balsamic vinegar and olive oil.It's pureed and strained through a sieve to get rid of the seeds. Ever think of blueberry ketchup? Yes, it can be made, In fact one of the original recipes was made solely from them.It's a mix of the fruit along with shallots, brown sugar, vinegar, garlic and ginger. The flavor is bright and fruity, sort of jammy  yet perfect for those grilled burgers or for giving those cookout some zing.

Get red white and berry this July Fourth and for the rest of the summer. Use blueberries in a ketchup. Strawberries in a crisp. Blackberries in a salad. It's the season for them so enjoy them.

Sides Taking Over

It's usually the side dishes that get all the applause. Guests may like stuffed mushrooms or the kids may like the the squash  instead of the roast. Is it possible to just make a meal of them then and forgo the main dish? Yes, if it's done right. A home chef can make a fun and nutritious meal by just using the second string.

Everyone loves stuffed mushrooms, They usually accompany a beef roast but can be made on their own. Use the portabella ones for a truly hearty meal. They can be stuffed with a variety of different ingredients. Try Italian sausage and mozzarella or crab meat and parsley, Vegetarians will love a spinach and eggplant one. You can also throw in some  white or brown rice too to round it out. The smaller white cap ones can be used  to make bite size versions. Another idea that involves mushrooms is mixing them with rice. Use the arborio  kind and you wind up with mushroom risotto. Rice itself is always the perfect side because it complements any meat poultry and fish.yet on its' own it can be a tasty and filling. Think about combining it with leftover chicken or ham along with some carrots broccoli and onions for a variation of fried rice.Rice patties are another idea. They're bound together with Parmesan  cheese and broccoli, then baked for fifteen minutes. The rounds can be made with brown rice too.Couscous is usually a side dish too but it can be stepped up to be a major player. Add some currents and chopped shallots and it turns into an exotic Moroccan dish.

Veggies have always been relegated to second string however they can shine on their own Squash can be stuffed with everything from beef to rice. It can also be filled with ground chestnuts or couscous too. Spaghetti squash is a great dinner .It's baked for forty-five minutes , scraped out and then served like any pasts. Try it with a rich marinara or a delicate burro or butter sauce. For true vegans  serve with a tomato sauce and chickpea meatballs.Zucchini is another side that can be stuffed and made into the star of the dinner table. Kids will love having zucchini boats for their meal instead of the usual garlic sauteed coins.They're an easy recipe starting with boiling or steaming the gourds and then slicing them in half. The pulp is scooped out then mixed with cheese, egg, beef, chicken or spinach  along with seasonings .It's then put into the squash shells and baked for twenty minutes at 350 degrees Farenheit. String beans, long the second banana to almost every dinner Yet serve it with pasta in an aglia e olio,, garlic and oil sauce and it's a fantastic dinner.Stir fry green beans with tofu and ginger for a yummy Asian influenced supper.

Sides can go from being a supporting player to the star of the dinner table. Any vegetable or grain can be revamped into a tasty and satisfying main dish.Don;t let them linger in the shadows any more.

Middle Eastern Spins

Nothing is exotic or as tasty as Middle Eastern cooking. It is a mélange  of different spices and cooking techniques, all marrying to create a wonderful , flavor packed meal. Mediterranean cooking is also easy. Any novice home chef can make it with ease and confidence, producing a perfect meal.

The cuisine featured prominently in both Melissa Clark's A Good Appetite and David Tanis' A City Kitchen in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Ms Clark made shallots grilled on a warm or indirect heat grill. Shallots are part of the onion family and they have a very sweet taste, intensified by the grilling. Ms. Clark recommends cutting them into chunks, This will vary
the textures of the shallot .Some will have creamy smooth interiors while others will be chunky and chewy which works.The key is moving the shallots around so they can get the optimum warmth.If they're not browning, then move them to the hotter side of the grill..They  are then chopped and mixed with herbs and lemon and turned into a kind of relish to be served with labneh, a richly creamy middle Eastern yogurt. You can use Greek yogurt instead and pile on a pita. Ms. Clark recommends serving the relish with meats and fish, but personally I would have chicken and beef layered with the relish and yogurt as a kind of gyro.

It would also go well with David Tanis' recipe this week, Moroccan steamed lamb shoulder. It one of the favorite Moroccan ways to cook it besides spit roasting and simmered in tangines,it's an easy technique with first starting off with putting the seasoned shoulder in the basket of  large steamer(you can use the steamer part of your spaghetti pot for this). Keep the water at the steamer's bottom at a brisk boil for two and a half to three hours. This will make the meat incredibly tender and succulent. Serve with typical Moroccan veggies such as carrots, turnips and zucchini but you can also have a dish with chickpeas drenched in lemon or spices. Moroccan cooks and home chefs slather saffron butter on the shoulder before cooking but Mr. Tanis recommends dabbing it on the meat and veggies before serving. The shoulder is usually accompanied by wildly spiked red pepper oil that's rich with cayenne. For something much more tamer serve it the charred shallots with it as  side on  top, along with pita to sop up any juices.

Mediterranean cooking is a tasty mélange of different spices and flavors. Try an easy relish of grilled shallots for an easy lunch or served with a steamed lamb shoulder for a dinner. These make wonderfully fragrant dishes that are a snap to make.