Feasting For All

 Garhering friends for a meal together is what keeps anyone sane thee days/ There's something about eating, laughing  - or crying and telling stories. It;s not just food for the boy but food for the soul

Regular contributor  and the author of a new book quoted in todays New York Times Food Section, Samin Nosrat gave both tips and recipes. Her latest cookbook, Good Things:Recipes and Rituals to Share With People You Love (Random House 2025). It is chock full of of advice and good recipes that make any gathering a success. Keep in mind that this is a jump start to creating fun dinners. Even Chef Nosrat and her friends have ordered out izzas and empanadas and served them with  a homemade  salad. There are some musts in creating the perfect table. One is choose a day and stick to it. Chef Nosrat always picks Monday . Pick a day that's convenient for everyone.Over time it will feel like a sacred day.It laos means fewer logistics and emails to handle. Another must is choose a location and stick to it. It would be fun to have a movable feast but a stationery one every week is better.It streamlines everything. Everyone knows where dinner will be and the layout of the kitchen. There are no last minute scrambles for utensils or pot lucks,. Everyone cooks there.

What else should future communal diners do? Remember that perfect is the enemy of good. be prepared for glitches. There may be limes subbed in for lemons or imperfect places. Go with it. Chef Nosrat suggests making it feel holy as she does with the other suggestions. It could be listening to vinyl classics when eating or making a special dessert every week. It could be opening up a special bottle a wine.Consistency is also crucial. Having a dinner every weeks lett people connect with the ones they didn't do in the previous weeks. Make room for everyone is another important point. Have chairs , even if they're lawn or folding ones for those to sit. What about costs. That should be the first point discussed. Costs and labor should be fairly divided. The ones who are better off financially should share more of the v=cost than the ones who are struggling. Also check in with each other on this on occasion. Make sure there are no resentments . Chef Nosrat includes two recipes, One is one pot chicken with pearl couscous and preserved lemon and the other is a lazy sugo - a pork and beef strew perfect for a fall get together.

Nothing beats a communal table. It's the perfect antidioe for these crazy times. Create one for good food and good friends.

Sturdy Seeds A Symbol for Altadena

 The California wildfires have created an unimaginable ,horrific hellscape.There has been so much destruction that even resident Jay Leno has likened it to Hiroshima. Yet there is hope among the ashes. It relies on plant seeds that could bring back wildlife and foods. 

LA resident and regular contributor Tejal Rao wrote about this miracle in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section.It is in Altadena, an area where there was nothing but mass destruction.The town had seeds banks, small wooden structures similar to small curb side libraries where home chefs could takes seeds to cultivate or use in cooking.One, Nina Raj, a naturalist who live-in the city took her seed collection during an evacuation. She had to pack her Marilija poppy seeds, Engelmann oak acorns,California buckeye, sage and buckwheat seeds. Many of these had been n gathered around Easton Canyon where another detrimental fire, the Eaton Wildfire is still smoldering This was an area that attracted seed collectors as well a  shikers and cyclists, along with indigenous animals also ate these seeds and drank from ponds and pools..

Luckily Ms. Raj's home is still standing while many of her neighbors are now homeless. however the surround ground may or may not be good for regrowing seeds. As shocking as it sounds fire is part of the ecosystem of Southern California. Some native plants have learned to germinate or go to seed in the ashes while  others have been shown to clean scorched soil and prepare it for new growth    Ms Raj realizes this and on Monday worked with a local nursery to dole out protective ear and tools for homeowners. She also put out a call for seed donations too . Within days people were dropping off seed packets. One person even gave a California black walnut sapling.Other mailed in yarrow, mugwort sagebrush and lupine seeds.  All of these can be used in teas and soups. They are flavorful and can be considered a part of native Californian cuisine.In recent years many Altadenans have replaced their gardens with vegetable and seed patches.    Hopefully the land won;t be polluted with flame retardants, salt water and ash that were used to extinguish the flames.  Ms Raj is hopeful. The plants are resilient and will grow back - a symbol of the people of latadena themselves.

California will rebuild and grow. The plant life will come back. it will take a while but the seeds and plants that made it unique  will regrow and thrive.   

The Perfect Vegan Dinner Party

 Creating a dinner party is hard. Creating a vegan dinner party is even harder?Or is it. All you need is a good main course , sides and a show stopping dessert. Can it be perfect for those avoiding meat? Yes!!!

Regular contributor Dasvid Tanis created this in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. The most problematic question is what makes for a good main course? You can't have roasts or anything like cutlets.Mr. Tanis turned to Italy for inspiration. He has come up with a polenta and  roasted mushroom torta. This is a layered casserole, baked in a spring form pan that's usually reserved for cheesecakes. Creamy cheese such as mozzarella.Parmesan and Gorgonzola(you could use vegan cheeses if you want - just research their baking times). Roasted mushrooms and a bright green gemolata cover it. Keep in mind that the polenta should be made several hours  or even a day in advance to allow it to firm up.when it's ready spoon into the buttered spring form pan and then layer on the cheese.Bake on the oven's middle rack for forty-five minutes in a  350 degree Farenheit oven. Turn the heat up ten minutes until the cheese is brown and bubbly, Take out of the oven and set aside.The mushrooms are first pan sauteed in olive oil and then season with salt and pepper. Roast them and at the same time reheat the torta Make the gremolata  by combining parsley , lemon garlic and crushed red pepper. Add the roasted mushrooms and serve with the polenta.

Since this is such a big flavored dish, the salad with it should be mild.Try a radicchio salad with walnuts and the fruit of the season -pears. Use ruby red radicchio along with brown sugared walnuts. Its creating a buttery caramel sauce by cooking butter and brown sugar. It will turn into a syrup. and then add the walnuts. Cook until nuts are fragrant.The dressing is a mix of two vinegars -red and balsamic, walnut oil and olive oil.Mix the greens ,walnuts and sliced pears together.what makes for a good dessert? Try homemade chocolate amaretti cookies. These are a simple bake using cocoa, egg  whites. and a dash of almond extract. The texture is like crinkle cookies. Three large egg whites are used and they're they only liquid involved. The rest is dark Dutch cocoa and almond flour.This last and the almond extract blend well with the cocoa.Once the dough is made they're pinched into walnut sized balls and then rolled first in granulated sugar and then powdered sugar. A blanched almond is pushed into their middles and they're baked on parchment in a 325 degree Farenheit oven for fifteen to twenty minutes The dough will be sticky at first but the two sugars should remedy that. You can end with a dessert wine or a good espresso.

A vegetarian dinner possible rich with good food is possible. This is a great dinner for a SUnday or for a weekend dinner party. There's no meat yet its still tasty and filling.

Easy Summer Fare

 Summer and easy cooking are right around the corner. This means tasty eating that only has a few steps to make.It's quick fixings with a delicious outcomes.

Regular contributor Margeaux Laskey wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday Food section. There are different recipes to make and bake.Another grilled dish is tajin grilled chicken redolent with adobo sauce and Chiles and sweetened with agave syrup and honey . Another griller favorite is the harissa shrimp. It's fiery with the addition of that great spice mix harissa blended with honey.They're alternated on skewers with grape tomatoes for more sweetness. but you could add green pepper or onion chunks too. Another easy dish that takes advantage of the bounty of the season is a spicy corn and shishito salad.It has a Mexican feel to it thanks tot he addition of cotijillo cheese and jalapeno peppers.A sweeter cousin of a jalapeno the shishito variety gives it some sweetness as does a cup of fresh corn. What would any summer be without a sheet pan dinner and a dip?  Again Ms Laskey gives an easy sheet pan baked feta with broccolini and lemon.Red onion and grape tomatoes are added for color while cumin and red pepper flakes give it spice and a fiery zing.It is roasted in a 400 degree Farehneit oven but this can be made occasionally during the summer. A cooler alternative is a white bean hummus with tahini and coriander.It's just s quick whirl in the food processor with olive oil and lemon juice.It's perfect as a quick Sunday lunch on French bread or with pita chips at an outdoor barbecue.

Summer is fun and there are fun foods too. Try Ms. Laskey's crispy cheddar chicken tacos, The cheese tacos are similar to the Italian frica but without the potatoes. Cheddar, Montery Jack or queso Chihuahua is baked on a parchment sheet in a 375 degree Farenheit oven.The chicken that's put on top can be the rotisserie one from your local grocery. That's mixed with adobo sauce,pepper,s orange juice and spices. Another tasty ddish is the pizza salad - a must try for any family.Its frying up pepperoni strips then roasting  panko breadcrumbs in the fat. Add these to a salad of romaine lettuce, pepperocini flakes, black olives and red onion.The  dressing is  grated tomatoes mixed with more pepperocini and olive oil. The whole salad is topped off with shredded mozzarella. WHat ends a fun summer meal.Caramel cookies can be too sweet. why not try adding complete fire with gochujang, the Korean red chili paste.These fiery gems would make an interesting base for vanilla ice cream sandwiches. Of course there is a summer cobbler, this from Chez Panisse. It's perfect for the upcoming blueberry season because it does require four and half cup of the berries.The dough is a buttery pastry one that's baked on top of the fruit.

Easy recipes mean easy eating. Try these ones for a summer of simple cooking without all the stress and mess. They're perfect for the warm days ahead.

Staff Dining

 Every restaurant is more or less like a big family. There are times when there's fighting and tenseness and times when there's sitting down to eat like a proper clan. Nowadays many eateries are making sure that their employees eat together as opposed to feud,

Regular contributor Julia Moskin wrote about this perk in today's New York Times Food section,Many restaurants are featuring this however it;s not new. The great and legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier implemented this in  restaurant kitchens during the NIneteenth Century. There eateries served the three meals, from breakfast to dinner..Cooks ate while they sweated above their stove top. The communard, an employee who ranked only slightly below  the "kitchen boy" was tasked with keeping them with food and drink over the long hours. The low status of the meal was in place until only very recently. Long before food waste became a public and  chef's concern, cooks were preoccupied with how to use up every scrap of an ingredients. Scraps and trimmings were used in making some kind of dinner for waitstaff and sous chefs.it was usually bulked out wit some kind of pasta or rice.However this was not the case in fast food joints and casual restaurants. Employees usually had to pay  - at a discount for their food.

It all changed with the farm to table movement.in 1999 even The French Laundry Cookbook by Thomas Keller included recipes for "staff lasagna" and salad dressing. In 2000 David Wattuck co founder and chef of Chanterelle in TriBeCa dedicated a cookbook to the subject "Staff meals from Chanterelle." Dinners can also be a testing ground for chefs trying out new recipes. Sometimes it provides restaurants with signature dishes.,At LA's Budonowskl , chef Dan rabiwongse created charred sweet potato  with miso butter and chives for his staff along with fried chicken wings tossed in a SOuth Asian style sauce similar to Disney's Bengal Barbecue Stand.Some chefs even encourage their employees to bring in their cooking styles to the staff meals.Lala Bazahm, chef at Austen Texas's El Ravale wants to try  her staff's family recipes and to see how they're cooked Her'staff's international background from Vietnam to Senegal to Thailand influenced many dishes on her menu.

Restaurants are not just for outsiders eating in.They're also for staff to get to know each other and their recipes. It'sa great way to experience restaurant life.

The Classic Patty Melt

 A diner classic is making a comback and in a big way.It's the patty melt and sudeenly New Yorkers are going wild for this vintage sandwich. To be nones tit';s a tasty departure from it's cousin the hamburger.

Pete Wells wrote about it in yesterday's New York Times  Wednesday Food section. He even included a recipe that's makes for an easy replica. MAny of the trenider eateries both in New York and on the West Coast in Malibu are making their versions of it. It's a classic beef patty(hoemamde  - not one of those frozen kinds), cooked and placed on butter  and fried rybread. Cheese is added along with carmelized onions. It's basically an old fashioned hot snadwich, soe =rto f like that other diner classic the tuna melt (this is tuna sald placed on toast then topped with cheese, usally American. It's then popped into the oven or broiler untile the cheese becomes all melty and bubbly). The famed Commerce Inn, a West Village restaurant that explores American farmhouse cuisine has added it to it's menu. S & P lunch, also in Manhattan gives it a bit fi Forties quaintess with a cherry lime rickey to drink.Revelie, alunceonette with French leanings serves their with a true New York classic - the egg cream. They also serve a vegan one too.

Mr. Wells gives the Commerce Inn's recipe which is probably the most authentic.You need good ground beef..It should be iberall salted and peppered on both sides  as you would do with a steak, Each patty should be bigger than the bread slice because the meat shrinks down when cooking. The onions should be thinly sliced and cooked with butter and rosemary. The bread should be  buttered and fried on the griddle. If you don't have a large enough griddle then use tow skillets instead.The cheese along with a mayo and Dijon . mustard mix should be spread on them. Smash the burgers with a spatula and then cover them with the onions Layer the meat and the onions onto the bread and then serve as hot sandwiches.  For a sub in  you can use sourdough which is what the first patty melts were served on . They were first created at Tiny's Waffle  Shop on Powell Street in San Francisco. Funny enough the sourdough wasn't popular and rye was put in in its' place.

Make a patty melt for a classic American taste. It's a gooey , tasty marriage of cheese and beef with onions and mayo. Nothing beats it.

Versatile Roti

 Roti is the type of flatbread that can be used in traditional and non traditional dishes. It cna be sweet or savory, served with lamb or jaggery sugar. The one thing it is is tasty and can be made in any home chef's kitchen.

Regular contributor and cookbook author Priya Krishna wrote about this basic yet versatile bread in today New York Times Wednesday Food section. Roti is a staple at many Indian restaurants but thnaks to both forced and voluntary migrations is alsoa staple in such diverse cuisines as Caribbean, Malaysian and Guyanese. The name itse;f derives from Northern Indian according to Professor Krish Ray who teaches food stiduies at NYU. However the basic recipe was common. Early people made rounds of unleavend bread cooked over open fires and either eaten plain or with somekind of meat and /or veggies. You can make it at home or even buy it at any grovery store. Caribbean chef Peter Prime gets the rounds at his local Caribbean mart in Mary;and. He does create his own too  - theTrinidadian buss up shut which has butter giving the bread a smoother texture. Keep in mind that it can also be made much easier wirh the help of the Rotimatic which sells for $1299 .

However Ms Krishna also includes a recipe for it. it calls for ghee, the clarified melted butter but you can use melted unslated butter too. There is flour, usually refined white will do along with baking powder for rise. A tablespoon of light brown sugar imparts a sweet taste making it perfect for dessert recipes too.The ingredients are added to the flour and baking powder by the well method. The dough at first will be shaggy looking but as tablespoons of water are added , it should evolve into a smooth ball. when this happens cover it with either plastic wrap or a kitchen towel  and let it rest  for anywhere between one to four hours. In the meantime combine the ghee or melted butter with coconut oil. When the dough has rested them roll it out on a floured surface. Formronds, and cut a slit in the middle Add the butter coconut oil mixture, then roll the dough onto itself, It should form cone. Sealt the ends , return to a buttered pan and allow it to rest for thirty more minutes. The dough is cooked in al large skillet with the butter mix to fry it. Keep brushing it with butter and shredding it with two spatulas. Repeat until allk the pieces are cooked . Serve with curry or a sweet filling.

Roti is a delcious bread that can be served with a variety of fillings. Have it sweet or savory.It''s a delicious treat either way.

LA'S BEst Restaurants

 New York  Chicago and San Francisco have alway sthe premier cities for fine dining. Yet Los Angeles is becoming a city known for quality restaurants. There are some great place to dine in the City of Angels.

Native Angelino and regular contributor Tejal Rao listed them in today's New YorkTimes Food section.there are some very good ones and that cater to all sorts of tastes.There are classic Italian ones such as Quarter Sheets ,an upscale pizzeria that features all sorts of pies. Antico Nuovo features Italian country cooking and quirky pastas like foglie d'ulivo and maloreddus. French cooking also reigns supreme in LA too. There is Republique, known for it's crunchy baguettes and delicous fusion dishes.in nearby Santa Monica there is the classic menu of Pasjoli. Here you can try pressed duck, done in the same way its'been cooked for centuries.Mexican food is also represented in Ponchu's Tlayudas which serves their version of blood sausage There is the wine bar Ruby Fruit, an inclusive gay bar, which features tast food such as their vegan hot dogs.

Yes there are Asian restaurants too CHinese .Korean and Japanese restuarants reigh supreme here too. Go to Needle for a Cantonese version of French toast. Perilla LA may be  a smalleatery but it packs a big punch food wise.There are rolled omelets and warm seasoned rice.Yangran is a Korean American place that combines Ashkenazi Jewish recipes with traditional Korean. There is pea shoot salad served with a golden capped congee potpie. Visitors to the city have to try Yess where there are tasting menus along with katsu, Japanese fried chicken. There is also Tsubaki that features charcoal grilled yakatori ans that also features seasonal ingredients. If you want Thai food then try  Anajak Thai which features a tasty fish custard and Thai fried chicken.Ravel offers a taste of African cooking that features North African and Middle Eastern cooking. 

LA is a culinary mecca worth visiting. The city is chockful of many different eateries from all sorts of cultures. It'san international  buffet .

Difficult Days Easy Meals

 Fall is one of the craziest seasons. After the lazy day of summer it;'s getting back into a whirlwind of school activities and at times increased office work. Add to that cooking along with other chores.At least there are recipes that make life easier.

Cheif editor Emily Weinstein gives some interesting and varied recipes for easy week night and even weekend cooking in today's New York Times Food section. Keep in mind that they could be doubled  and served two days of the week too. All the recipes are straightforward and can be made in thirty minutes or less. She created these recipes with kids in mind but they're perfect for adult families or just busy couples looking for a good and easy meal. One is the simplest. Kay CHun lent her recipe for meatballs which follows the classic Italian recipe.It's mixing ground beef and pork(or strictly beef if you prefer. ) and mixing it with egg and panko crumbs. Italian seasonings such as dried oregano, basil, marjoram, thyme or oregano can be added.Keep in mind you can do the same with Impossible Meat too for a vegan option. A vegetarian option is red curry lentils with sweet potatoes and spinach . This is a perfect dish for a cool autumn night because of th eheat from, serrano chiles, and red curry paste being added to a wonderful array of veggies. Another meatless dinner is chile fettucini with baby spinach. Chili crisp is what gives it it's zing.

There are meat and fishes dishes here too. Think crispy gnocchi with sausage and peas for an easy midweek supper. This is an easy mix of store bought sausage and gnocchi cooked with frozen peas. Another snap dinner is lemony shrimp and bean stew made with leeks and white or cannellini beans.  You could serve this over pasta or just dip Italian bread into it.Instread of take out make Grace Lee's kimchi fried rice which you can use leftover rice and Spam  along woth a vaoriety of spices and soy sauce. Chicken katsu  is another choice . This is like a Japanese schnitxel, with breaded chicken breasts  , first coated in eggs, flour and then bread crumbs and ten fried in oil. The sauce is tonkatsu a mix of kethcup, Worcester sauce sauce and molasses, Sugar, soy sauce and cloves are also added to this along with fresh ginger for bite. baked cod with Ritz cracker topping is another chocie and it's comfort food one. The Ritz crackers are mixed with melted butter, chive ,parsley, lemon zest and a mix of onion and garlic powders. The fish can be any white fish  from cod , haddock or halibut. The crackers are put on top of the roasted fish and baked for an extra ten to sixteen minutes. It's served with asqueeze of lemon.

Weekday meals don't have to be a hassle. Use any of these for worry free cooking. They can be the easiest thing to make during a hard and difficult week. 

Homemade Macarons? Yes Please!

 Macarons are on everyone's wish list. These delightful  little bites  are sweet and airy treats a taste of alomnd mixed with ganache ro buttercream. They're every sugar addicts dream. Unfortunately they can be expensive , costing two and sometimes three times more than the average cookie. Don;'t depair .Macarons can be made at home.

Famed pastry chef and regular contributor Claire Saffitz gave the recipe for chocolate ,pistacchio and raspberry ones in yesterday's new York Times food section.Many home bakers balk at the thought of making them. They can be tempermental at best and even some of the better bakeries have had trouble creating them. There are plusses in baking themat home. One they are very expensive, One cna cost as much as five dollars. You'll be saving a lot of money by creating your won. Also you have more control of the sugar added. Many bakers put in a bit too much sugar which can mask the other flavors.Another asset is that once mastered macarons can be made in a varirty of different flavors with different fillings. Home bakers can go wild with their own creations and have fun using different or unusual ingredients. You do have to be dedicated for baking them. Filled macarons are really a two day process. It stsrtd with almind meal flour, usually King Arthur's is the best choice. Then there are th e egg whites which can be subbed in with aquafaba for vegans and vegetarians,

There are excellent tips included too, The mernigue should be very firm which creates a stable base. Then you mix in your dry ingreidients like almond flour and the confectioners sugar in a folding mtion called macronage. This deflates the meringue which gives the batter a glossy lava liketexture. This will make it settle into flat smooth cirlces on the baking sheet. Keep in mind that if the batter is lumpy it,s been undermixed: if it's pancaking into thin  puddles its been overmixed. as for the flur use an extra fine almond variety.A coarseer grind can lead to cracked shells and oils from almond skins can weaken the meringue. Use gel food coloring. The liquid kind can lead to cracking. You have to have a pastry bag to pipe the shells on a silicon baking mat. The mats will stay perfectly flat resulting in rounder shells. DO NOT use parchment because it tends to wrinkled underneath the macarons, sightly distorting the circles. Let the rounds air until a skin forms on them, Unlike other baked good , macarons should be baked at a low oven 275 degrees Farenheit. This will maintain their round shape. Let them sit overnight before filling them with ganache or buttercream.

Merignues are such tasty treats that they're hard to resist. Make them at home with favorite flavors. They'll be at the ready to satisfy a sweet tooth.

The Four Days Only Dining

 The four day work week took hold duriong the pandemic. It's not a bad way to work with more time devoted to home and family. Yet would this concept work for restaurants. That's what many are asking.

New contributor Regan Stephens ,  who alsow rites for Conde Nast and Food and Wine magazine wrote this intriguing piece for yesterday's New York Times Food section. It's a question many restauranteurs are asking themselves. Can they run their places on a four day work week? While many other businesses are getting back to the five day work week some chefs feel it's better to just work four days. Ir does create for a better work-life balance. For New Jersey chef Dominic Piperno it does work. He closed his famed Collingswood New Jersey eatery Hearthside  for a four day work week during the pandemic in 2020.He has kept it three years later. It means that employees receive a more sustainable schedule while drawing wary veteran workers back into the workforce.The change had an immediate impact on its' pastry chef, Kelly Bradley who got to spend more time with her twelve year old daughter Makenzie, They get to do more things like roller skating together.The days may be longer , eleven hours as opposed to eight but the benefits are great.

Yes, it can be difficult. There should be a plan in place to fit schedules and delivery times. According to Hudson Riehle, the senior vicepresident of research at the National Restaurant Association.if an operator wants to close for a four day week  they've put very specific thought into the need to do so and create a business plans that works.A four day work week has alway be been floated around the US but never actually put into use. Some workers want , almost demand, a five or seven day work week. There are headaches too. Patricia Howard and Ed Szymanski have faced their share of difficulties with both their Manhattan restaurants, Dame and Lord's. They wake up to texts  about broken equipment , ingredients that didn't arrive and employees calling in sick. Yet if a shortened work week  makes most of the workers happy so be it.Leina Horii one of the owners of the Nashville  based Japanese cafe Kisser has noticed nothing but plusses instead minuses. They only open on weekdays for lunch. The shortened working hours have provided them with amazing employee retention while allowing her anbd her husband Brian Lea to be people outside the restaurant industry.

Will four day restaurants be a standard or just a fad? If the trend means happier workers and better food then let the eateries have their shortened work weeks. It can only be good for both the staff and the customers.

A Historic Take On Masa

 Mexican cooking would be nothing without masa, This ground corn meals yields everything from tortillas to tacos.it is one of the cooking traditions that migrated to the US and became a staple here. However it's not the same as the original until now.

Chef and host of the TV show Mi Cocina Rick AMartinez wrote this interesting piece on Mexican corn in today's New York Times Food section. For decades Americans have been eating tortillas and tacos made with processed corn loaded with preservatives. Even though we're used to the taste the flavor is very often musty and sour or bland. However a new generation of Mexican  American chefs are going back to using heirloom qualities of Mexican corn.Chefs are infusing traditional flavor into their tortilla along with tiocoyos, a street food made of a thick fried corn dough filled with pork cracklings and beans along with tamales and taquitos. Making true masa requires nixtamalization a three thousand year old practice of Mesoamerica.It's even been documented back to 1500 BCE.it's simply simmering dried corn in water and calcium hydroxide or cal until the kernals soften. They're then ground into a homogenous dough that holds what ever shape the cook wants. There are thin circles for tortillas , thicker ones for gorditas and plump triangles or ovals for huaraches or dumplings. Masa is also the backbone of a well loved chocolate drink chappurado. it cna also be crumbled into stews for body too.

There are many diffrent kinds of Mexican heirloom corn. Red ruby colored corn glints and grows in the Mexican state of Tiaxcala. Oaxaca give the Mexicans green corn while in the west  central state of Nayarit has fields full of corn stalks. These varieties are making their way to metro areas across the US. Tortilla and totopo - corn chip makers have the masa. They most likely nixtamalize the corn daily for their own products.Chef Martinez also gives recipes for tortilla made on comal or a tortilla maker. If you don;t have one a skillet works well too. They're  like pancakes being flipped every thirty seconds. There are also recipes for gorditas de maize, fat versions of pita or naan.These are slit open warm and filled with a variety of different meats , beans and cheeses.Chef Martinez also includes a recipe for tetelas de frijos negro or black bean filled dumplings. The black bean filling is easy .it's cooking black beans and sixteen cuoso f water with avocado leaves, garlic and white onion.The dumplings are stuffed with this and sprinkled with cotilla, the crumbly fresh cheese. They're cooked in a skillet or comal.

True masa requires true Mexican corn.It can be hhad here in the States. use it to create authentic tasting tortilla, taco, goritos, huaraches and gorditos

Returning To Old Fashioned Restaurants

 years ago, restuarants were not on;y serving food. They  were serving love and friendliness along with kindness and courtesy. All that vanished, especially with the pandemic, but it's coming back. Restaurants are embraicng diners and the feeling is mutual.

Regular contributor Kim Severson wrote about this return in today's new YorkTimes Food section. eateries ave changed in the last few years, maybe even before that. Servers had to not only take orders and serve but also bus tables, They were rushed off their feet, leaving them with bad tempers and even worse attitudes. Chefs were embracing the latest influencers instead of loyal customers. Now all of that's changed. Thanks to a change in atmosphere and it couldn;t happen at a better time. Food prices are still rising and impacting menus across the country.No one wants to spend an exorbitant sum if the dish isn't tasty and the service falls short of good. Two film industry workers,  Leaan Emmert and Katrina Elder  used to spend their weekends checking out Los Angeles eateries. They spent way too much money going to places that served two hundred dollar appetizers. They found a local and cheaper place instead that also has a neighborood vibe and consistantly good food.

What will it take to bing in customers? Sometimes a lot as with Louisville restaurant Nami. This popular Korean place , run by chef Ed Lee, has giant menus diners can realy study instead of downloading codes to look at on their phones. This was a plus A. nother extra that won over customers is having a security guard outside the front door although the neighborhood is pretty safe. Another asset is still having an outdoor dining area for those who are still fearing Covid. The booths are also luxurious and the lighting is flattering but not  so dim that diners cant see . Other like Chili's chief executive Kevin Hochman has cancelled robots as servers and has told managers to hire workers to bus tables instead of letting the waitstaff do it. This freed up servers to cater to  diners . he also simplified  tablets used to take orders and revamped recipes. It rpoved to be a good idea , maintaining customers like the Marte family who visited te Chilis ouside of north Atlanta.

Restaurants are returning to what they were. People flocked to eateries that provided good food and good companionship. This is a winning combo for success

The Language of Food

 One of the most fun aspects of food is not eating it - surprisingly - but finding out its' origins. Where did the word barbecu ecome ffrom? Or something as ordinary as Romaine lettuce? Now there's a new book that explains allthat and it's a tasty read.

Regular contributor Kim Severson wrote about this in yesterday's New York Times Food section.The book is Romaine Wasn't Built In A Day (Voracious Press 2023) by medieval scholar and English professor Judith Tschann. This is not just the book for foodies but for word lovers too. It's chock full of interesting nuggets about food and food related words. Who would have thought that seersucker which comes from the Hindi word sirisakar whic derives from a Persian word meaning milk and sugar. The smooth stripes are the milk while the bumpy ones are the sugar.  Our popular barbecue comes from the Caribbean Arawak word barbacoa for roasted meat on a spit.You know that Caesar salad is named after Caesar Cardini, anItalian chef who moved to Tijuana. and create this fantastic salad for the 1920's movie stars. Yet did you also know that Romaine lettuce originated from the medieval French laitue romaine, which arrived with the popes coming ot the then seat of the Church, Avignon. France.  Although some words like avocado have spicier origins, ahucatl coming fromthe Nahuatl word from the Aztecs which was slang for testicles.

There are tons of delicious morsels. like this in the book. "Language is amusing,"said the book's author ."It has a playfulness to it and so does food." Yet some words have a weighted history like the word  recipe. It derives from the Latin verb recipere to receive or take. IN Western medieval and early modern manuscripts it was used to instruct people to take medical prescriptions. The  abbreviation Rx is a remnant of that. Another interesting fact is that the English language as a habit of sucking up foreign words and then making them its' own. Take relish for example. Again another word coming from Old French relaisser which means to release. The idea is that it releases flavor according to Dr. Tschann. Then there is mushroom which comes from the old Anglo-French word musherum and the central French word moisseron. We have the Yemeni port city of MUkha to thank for the word mocha. Their coffee originally had a chocolate-y flavor  that we now used for a mix blend of chocolate and coffee. Surprisingly place names like Chicago are  aasociated with food. the name cones from the  word leek in the Miami Illinois language while Topeka means the palce for digging potatoes in the Dakota language.

Romaine Wasn't Built In A Day is the perfect book for food and word lovers. It's a tasty look into our word salad of cooking terms. Buy it for a good read.

Frozen Pizza It's Getting Fresher

Frozen pizza is one of those quick meal or snack bites.It's great if you don;t want the bother of going out or calling up for a hot pie. Yet it's not as tasty as fresh , hot pies. That's changing. You can have  good quality and flavor right from the freezer.

Regular contributor JUlia Moskin wrote abut this in today's New York Times Food section. She even enlisted her feloow TImes workers to jou=in her in a taste test of some of the more "boutique" brands. The new generation of frozen pies are nto like the ones everyone grew up on. The bigger companies like DiGiorno and Red Baron make their pies with dough conditioners, additives and processed cheeses. all engineered for freezing. The crusts are infused with sugar and oil, the dough is parbaked and the cheese and sauce are applied raw to be cooked in your oven.However this infuriates pizzaiolo like Manhattan's Anthony Mangieri, founder of Pizza Napoletana has created a frozen pizza that meet his standards.It would have to be wood fired, slow rising and fashioned from all natural and all Italian ingredients, He founda plant in Northern Italy that could give him the perfect pie.The first tries didn;t exactly work out, The dough was extreemly gummy and the managers were vexed by his high demands. It wass only when he compared his pies to Ferraris made nearby that they listened. More mom and pop pizzerias are following his lead, relying on a delivery company like Goldbelly to deliver the goods.

How did these new breeds of frozen pizza measure up? Ms. Moskin, along with Erik Kim who also writes for the Times Food section and VaughVreeland,  a supervising producer for the paper  judged them. She also included editor Cathy Lu.They sampled many , but all were from independent pizza makers dedicated to Neopolitan pizza. They came from all over, from the artesenal pizzerias in Manhattan and the boroughs  to the ones in San Francisco and Phoenix alognw ith ones from Atlanta and San Antonio. They found that some were not as good as some of the superamrket brands. WHich ones did pass muster? There was Robert'a from Bushwick Brooklyn. It did have lovely puddles of cheese which everyone loved however there was a skimpy layer of tomato sauce and a crust that had dried out in the freezing process.There was also another New York pizza  Table 87. Mr Kim  loved the tomato puree yet Mr. Vreeland thought it too sweet and comp[ared it to LUnchables. Talia of Napoli had a great crust. , the perfect char as Mis Lu said. yet the toppings were faint in taste. The best was Mr. Mangieri's Genio pizza which was perfect in all aspects. It was a combination of salty and oily.

These are the Next Gen of frozen pizza. Try them for a more authentic fresh fromthe oven flavor/Its the next best thing to having a homemade pie.

It's Panettone Season

 They're everywhere. In stores. Gracing bakery windows. On every Nonna's holiday table. What are these popular holiday treats?Panettone or panetung if you grew up in a Piedmontese household.

Regular contributor Julia Moskin wrote about thos beloved and historic bread in today's New YorkTimes Food section. This traditionally Northern Italian treat has become a global moneymaker with all sorts of variation over the world. The standard which originated in fifteenth Century Milan is a domed sweet bread with a golden crumb. scented and stidded with sugared fruit.It's in the same family as German stollen,Polish chalka and British fruitcake.It was made with expensive ingredients like eggs and butter, refined flour and sugar, spices from Asia and preserved fruit from the Mediterranean.Later on bits of chocolate were added and regional ingredients such as lemon from the Amalfi coast and hazelnuts from Piemonte. As Italy unified panettone became the national symbol of Christmas.It was beribboned and wrapped in fancy paper. However thanks to commercial baking the bread lost some of its' famed luster.They became dry and flat tasting thanks to cheaper ingredients like candied squash (!!!) and milk powder.

Luckily there is a renaissance of sort for the treat.There are more artigianle ones being made as opposed to industriali, that is it's going back to it's hand wrought origins instead of being mass produced.There's also the threat of outside sources such as  Peruvians, Argentinian and Brazilian producers like Bauducco and D'Onofrio where Northern Italian immigrants settled in the late 19th Century (especially in Argentina). The other problem is that panetoone from MIlan is protected like San Marzano tomatoes or prosciutto from Bologna. Luigi Biasetto, a top baker in Padua is leading an effort to have the bread declared as part of the world's cultural heritage.It is a difficult bread to create. Two separate doughs are required, each a challenging mix of high gluten flour. The first dough is slowly fermented to a specific level of acidity which takes twelve to twenty four hours, depending on microbial activity.It requires constant monitoring of temperature and humidity. rich ingredients , much like during panettone's early days are being added in. Gucci (yes Gucci) and Fornasetti are adding Belgian centrifuged butter and pure Madagascar vanilla. The king of panettone Ray Schvartzapel creates a more bready one  with cherries and pistacchios. There are even World Cup style panettone competitions.

Panetoone is such a cherished holiday treat. You can spend a lot or a little on it. Every slice is a wonderful bite into tradition.

Can Fruitcake Ever Be Updated?

 No one really bakes fruitcake for the holidays. It seems relagated to christmasses pasts along with bubble lights and silvery strands of  tinsel. Suppose, though this centuries old classic could be updated. would people want a slice? Yes.

Regular contributor and author of several dessert books, Claire Saffitz posed this question in yesterday's new York Times Food section.fruitcake has been much maligned over the decades with the former late night host Johhny Carson once joking that there was only one fruitcake in existence  that made the rounds  from family to family. everybody in the States grew up on the English version, which has a spicy , molassses flavor and a rich , tender crumbs thanks to a long aging process.It's basted or "fed" with high proof alcohol and then tightly wrapped for weeks or even months. Homemade and commercially baked ones are studded withh those unnaturally colored red and green  glaceed cherries . Sugared pecans usually formed the roof of this creation, Creating a cake of this way was a way of preserving both fruit and cake in  times when there was no refrigeration. The cakes were also coated in jam and then sealed with royal icing  which also helped with keeping it for months and even years.

Luckily Ms. Saffitz's version skips all that. what she presents is a cake batter that has almond paste in it. Adding this will help with keeping the fruitcake moist for one to two weeks. There is no added liquid , keeping the proportions of sugar and fat high, fostering an environment in which bacteria can't survive.As a bonus the longer the fruitcake sits the better taste it will have. Her fruit selection is wide, Yes, there are cherries but they're dried deep red cherries, not the glaceed kind. There are also dried apricots, cranberries, prunes and currents. They're combined in rum and freshly squeezed orange  and then the mixture is tightly covered in a boel. It's  left to sit out until all the liquid is absorbed. The batter has the aded zing of fresh lemon and orange zest instead of the candied one which is hard to find in the States. There are the usual spices  of ginger all spice and cloves. The finished cake is basted in apricot jam and then an icing made of confectioners sugar,milk, lemon juice and salt is poured on top of it.

Is it time to rethink fruitcake? Yes! This recipe proves that the holiday classic doens't have to be stodgy. It can be zesty and exciting too.

Computer Cooking?

AI has taken over much of our lives today.Yet can it take over our kitchen and our time honored recipes? Can  artificial intelligence give us the perfect Thanksgiving dinner? That's what both chefs and home chefs want to know.

Regular contributor  Priya Krishna along with AI tech writer Cade MIller for the NY TImes, explored the possiblities in yestrrday's New York Times Food section. This is a new branch of AI but it is making headway. These computer generated recipes do share many aspects with their handwritten counterparts. There is the list of ingredients, exact measurements , step by step instructions and even fabricated notes with personal touches. The best test of these, as food editors and chefs of all sorts know is Thanksgiving. Ms. Krishna, along with other New York Times Food writers, Melissa Clark, Genevieve Ko, Erik Kim and Yewande Komolafe decided to try out a technology known as GPT-3 to devise a holiday menu. GPT-3 is a neural system that's more adept at analyzing large amounts of data. it has created credible recipes in the past. In fact some can pass for human generated ones. in order to create recipes, Ms. Kirishna had to put in her background along with likes  like Italian and Thai food along with making not too sweet desserts.It also asked for what ingredients she often cooks with. she then added "Show me a Thanksgiving menu made for me."

How did the computer do?The first recipe was pumpkin spice chaat or bite sized snacks that can be used as appetizers. Ms. Kirishna was confused by the concept but impressed with the program's inventiveness. Minutes later she had a palusible menu. Along with the pumpkin spice chaat there were recipes for green beans with miso and sesame seeds, a turkey with a soy-ginger glaze and a naan based stuffing. She wanted a cranberry sauce that wasn't too sweet and a little spiced and she got one with those exact requirements.. There was also a pumpkin spice cake with orange cream frosting. How did it all work out? The personal notes about using the flavors of Ms Krishn'as childhood fot the turkey were a li. The naan stuffing required thirty-two components. The recipes were light on salt and fat.  Still there was hope - until they were tasted. The naan stuffing tasted like chana masala and fruitcake got into a bar fight, There was no butter or oil to moisten the bird and it came out incredibly dry and stringy,. It was also flavored with only one garlic clove. The chaat tasted like grassy mush. The cake looked like two pancakes sandwiched together with icing. Her felloow food writers were hard with their comments, with Ms Ko summing it up - "Food with no soul."

Should we rely on AI for our recipes? No, We need the human touch for delicious recipes and time honored dishes. It's this that makes meals especially holiday ones memorable and beloved.

Une Souffle Parfait

 One of the most elegant desserts any home chef can create is the chocolate souffle. It's also the lushest sweet, airy and delciate as it melts against the tongue. Yet it fills home bakers with fear.It shouldn't.it's one of the easiest recipes to make.

Claire Saffitz, author of DessertPerson "Clarkson POtter 2020) and her latest book due out next month, Dessertperson: Recipes and Guidance for baking with Confidence. (Clarkson Potter) gave her spin on it in yesterday;s New Yorlk Times Wednesday Food section. Ms. Saffitz knows desserts. She loves desserts so creating the perfect chocolate souffle is vital to her. She crushes the many myths associated with the recipe, like don't slam the oven door while it's baking. It'll fall. Eat it warm or it will be ruined.However her deconstruction can help many a home baker recreate this French classic. One of the most important steps is stabilize your eggs.The dish requires three egg yolks and five egg whites. You need to understand the last in order to make a good souffle. It;'s the egg whites that are the most important. They're to be whipped and when this is dome air bubbles trap water and retain water.Older eggs provide this and Ms. Saffitz recommneds getting them from the local farmer's market. The eggs have to be cold as well when they're separated and then the whites are left out at room tmperature before beating. The whites have to be beaten into stiff peaks otherwhise there could be puddles.

Another must is buildng your base. Chocolate souffle needs an anchor of sorts This comes in the form of a thin pastry creme thickened with a little flour along with chocolate and cocoa powder. The gluten from the flour adds just enough structure to support the souffle without muting the rich chocolate flavor.Many souffle recipes rely on just the chocolate alone for support. The eggs whites are quickly added other wise the combination of yolk chococlate and milk could cause the whites to collapse. Another must is properly prepping the ramekins. They're first greased with room temperature butter and then coated with sugar to prevent cracking and the batter sticking to the sides while baking.It also acts like a grip for the batter to adhere to. fill the ramekins to the top and then scrape off the top for a perfect even cap, Sprinkle more sugar on top and run a finger along the inner rims wiping away the batter. This will ensure a perfect even rise.How do you know when it's done? Press the souffles centers down with a finger. There should be a certain springiness as the eggs begin to ser. Serve warm from the oven.

Any home baker can create the perfect chocolate souffle. It just takes myth busting and following the recipe ina thoughtful way.. The result is a chocolate fantasty , light airy and delciosuClaire Saffritz, New York Times chocolate souffle. eggsl whipp, ramekinds, butter dugr, flout 

New Summer Dishes

 It's always fun to experiment with classic summer ingredients in new ways. The results are always fun , new dishes that are tasty. best of all they add to already established recipes. amping up their flavors.

This is true for a new salad I found in The New York Times Food section. I put a vegan spin on it, subbing in vegan mayo for the egg based one and oat milk based yogurt for the Greek kind

This may look like potato soup but it;s actually a pickle (yes pickle!!!) and celery salad. Both are chopped into manageable pieces and mixed with the mayo and yogurt. There should be a tablespoon of mayo and a quarter  of yogurt. However this was about a cup of yogurt and three to four tables spoons of mayo. It's more of a homage to cucumbers floating in  sour cream where the slices are bathed in the sour cream. The recipe calls for chopped red onion too however a generous sprinkle of onion powder works better.

Scallions are another summer crop that add flavor to summer recipes. I've  added chopped ones to a soy sauce for a more flavorful dipping sauce and marinade.

This is taking two to three scallions and cutting them into bite size pieces. Add to half a cup of soy sauce mixed with a teaspoon of honey or maple syrup, This counterbalances the saltiness. Olive oil is drizzled in for a silky texture. I love this over potstickers but it also makes a great marinade for steak. I love the flavor of salty and sweet plus the bite of Spring onions. They definitely enhanced the flavor of pot stickers I made.

Simmer ingredients can be remastered into new dishes. Try these two , the pickle and celery salad and the scallion marinade for a flavorful season. They are great additions to any cook out or picnic.