Can Fruitcake Ever Be Updated?

 No one really bakes fruitcake for the holidays. It seems relagated to christmasses pasts along with bubble lights and silvery strands of  tinsel. Suppose, though this centuries old classic could be updated. would people want a slice? Yes.

Regular contributor and author of several dessert books, Claire Saffitz posed this question in yesterday's new York Times Food section.fruitcake has been much maligned over the decades with the former late night host Johhny Carson once joking that there was only one fruitcake in existence  that made the rounds  from family to family. everybody in the States grew up on the English version, which has a spicy , molassses flavor and a rich , tender crumbs thanks to a long aging process.It's basted or "fed" with high proof alcohol and then tightly wrapped for weeks or even months. Homemade and commercially baked ones are studded withh those unnaturally colored red and green  glaceed cherries . Sugared pecans usually formed the roof of this creation, Creating a cake of this way was a way of preserving both fruit and cake in  times when there was no refrigeration. The cakes were also coated in jam and then sealed with royal icing  which also helped with keeping it for months and even years.

Luckily Ms. Saffitz's version skips all that. what she presents is a cake batter that has almond paste in it. Adding this will help with keeping the fruitcake moist for one to two weeks. There is no added liquid , keeping the proportions of sugar and fat high, fostering an environment in which bacteria can't survive.As a bonus the longer the fruitcake sits the better taste it will have. Her fruit selection is wide, Yes, there are cherries but they're dried deep red cherries, not the glaceed kind. There are also dried apricots, cranberries, prunes and currents. They're combined in rum and freshly squeezed orange  and then the mixture is tightly covered in a boel. It's  left to sit out until all the liquid is absorbed. The batter has the aded zing of fresh lemon and orange zest instead of the candied one which is hard to find in the States. There are the usual spices  of ginger all spice and cloves. The finished cake is basted in apricot jam and then an icing made of confectioners sugar,milk, lemon juice and salt is poured on top of it.

Is it time to rethink fruitcake? Yes! This recipe proves that the holiday classic doens't have to be stodgy. It can be zesty and exciting too.

What Do You Want To Bake

 This is the season for heavy duty baking. It's even more intense this year as we leave boxes of treats for our loved ones and friends. The question is what do you want to bake. Do you want to keep within your skill set or go beyond? Do you want to stick with one kind of baked good or expand? Ask yourself these questions when you're planning your holiday baking.

Christmas season means cookie season. There's nothing like a plate of shortbread or chocolate chip cookies along with fancily made and decorated ones. Before you start, ask yourself do you want to stick with the familiar or go beyond? You could uses mixes such as Betty Crocker's . These are basically already mixed and just need eggs and butter. You can turn the mix sugar cookies into fancy ones with the addition of colored sugar and sprinkles. Many would prefer starting from scratch. Nothing beats the holiday spritz cookies which can be baked into so many different shapes and decorated so many different ways.  The classic recipe is just a mix of butter, sugar, flour and egg along with a dash of almond or vanilla. The dough is then chilled and rolled. Keep in mind that spritz cookies don't always work out. There's also a lot from one batch and they bake very quickly. Baking them really is nothing more than a rapid assembly line. If this is too much you may want to stick with easy to mix, easy to make cupcakes. Just bake a dozen of either chocolate or vanilla or both flavors. A fun icing is a peppermint buttercream which goes well with chocolate. The frosting can also be tinted and be festooned with all sorts of decorative pieces, from pretzels for reindeer antlers to marshmallows for snowmen.

Some home bakers are turning to cakes for a different holiday dessert. A simple layer cake with a lovely frosting is always a plus. You can try a spice cake with a maple frosting to finish off a Christmas dinner. Another idea for those who want to go fully traditional is the Christmas fruitcake. It's a bit more labor intensive for some but the result is well worth it.The recipe calls a variety of dried fruit from dates to raisins to candied orange peels. You can easily omit these if they're not your family's cup of tea. Spices abound in any fruitcake recipe. There are cloves,nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice. Of course it wouldn't be a fruitcake without the alcohol .Bourbon, rum or brandy can all be used to douse the fruit before adding it to the batter - not the cake after it's baked.The alcohol is usually mixed with orange juice for more flavor for the dried fruit. If this is too intense, you could try baking a panettone. the Italian fruit bread. It really is a bread thanks to the addition of yeast.It also requires a special pan for it but you can also use a coffee can too. This is a great bake for all those who honed their bread making skills this year. If this recipe works out for you , then try the other Italian Christmas pandoro, or golden bread. This rich confection has egg yolks along with  half a cup of whole cream and two sticks of butter added in for its' deep yellow color and lush flavor. You do need a special pandoro pan for it to create the risen star shape.

Bake what you feel comfortable with this CHristmas. Being confident helps in creating no fail treats everyone will love. Just go with your skill set and make something amazing for family and friends.

 

A Jamaican Christmas Up North

Christmas is full of amazing aromas and flavors. Amp those up and you have a Jamaican holiday. The Jamaicans have always amped up everything about Christmas, from shopping with a junkanoo band playing to cooking and baking flavorful rich dishes. They do the day right.

Famed cookbook writer  and regular contributor, Priya Krishna wrote about it for today's new York Times's Food section. She not only got tot taste the best of Jamaican home chef Hazel Craig but also saw how she created these amazing dishes. Her assistant was her daughter , Jessica, the head  pastry chef at L'Artusa in  Manhattan's West Village.Hazel lives for Christmas celebration It has been the one constant n her family's trouble life here first in Queens , then Islip Long Island. They had even suffered a fire that completely destroyed their house. Yet Hazel would not be deterred during the holidays. She cooked curried goat, callaloo,ackee and saltfish in a small trailer. Even in their rebuilt house, she made sure they had the same feasting as they did before. It stems from Hazel's Jamaican upbringing. The island goes into full partying mode every December. She grew up in Spanish Town where people would dress up, playing drums and dancing in the streets. Her grandmother made her favorite dishes which included curried goat and a fruitcake rife with cherries and raisins marinated in rum since the Christmas before, Hazel's dessert nowadays is a sweet potato pudding , dusted with nutmeg.

The family comes from all over the US for a traditional Jamaican Christmas. Hazel makes the fiery callaloo which would be a perfect chill chaser. right now.It's a fish and greens stew chock full of all sorts of flavors. The original recipe calls for Amaranth and water spinach but Ms. Krishna suggests subbing in kale and Swiss chard with their stems removed. Saltfish or baccalao (cod) is also added for substance along with tomatoes and onions, Hazel adds a teaspoon of Lawry's Seasoned Salt which also has paprika and garlic.It's also cooked with vegetable or canola oil. The fish is first boiled and then shredded into little pieces. The tomato and onion are sauteed , then the saltfish and greens are added and stewed.The other recipe is for curried goat.If you do try this, remember that most supermarkets don't sell it. You'll have to go to a halal butcher for it.Onions and potatoes are added to it along with that famed Jamaican Scotch Bonnet pepper - which is pure fire.There is also the addition of Jamaican curry which also has allspice added ,a spin on the true Indian curry.It takes anywhere from an hour and a half to two hours to cook in a Dutch oven.

Jamaicans know how to do Christmas right. They make it a festival of food, both fiery and warming and sweet and calming. That's exactly what a holiday should be.

Panettone - Fruitcake Done Right

Mention fruitcake to anyone and you're sure to get a wrinkled nose or gagging sounds. Let's face it. No one likes a leaden loaf fill with fruit that looks like it was picked during the Neolithic era. However leave it to the Italians to save this culinary reject and turn it into something chic and class. Panettone is the perfect holiday fruitcake. It can be served with everything from breakfast coffee to after dinner wine.

Panettone is a true Milanese invention. The name itself means "large loaf" in Italian but legend has it it was either named for the baker Toni, it or for the an assistant who helped bake it.Legend also has it that it was first served at the wedding of noted Milanse nobleman and falconer , Ughetto Atellani to for Toni's daughter Adalgisa. There's also the Christmas legend that a cook had nothing to give out for the holy day so he concocted a bread full of candied fruit and raisins. Not wanting to take credit he said his assistant Toni made it, hence pan de Toni or panettone. A few centuries later, Angelo Motta , a Milanese baker produced it fro the masses in 1919. Another baker , Gioacchino Alamagna did the same and a rivalry broke out. Motta is credited with giving the bread its' modern look, He let the dough rise to three times the normal height for bread during a period of twenty hours. (usually most bread is left to rise for only twelve. hours before baking). The average panettone is about ten inches high and almost impossible to toast in a toast in a toaster. Every slice has to be halved to have it warmed.

How to eat panettone? My one cousin in Piedmonte's Val Susa, Pat, scoops out the middle and fills it with a sweetened form of marscapone cheese. Sabayon is also used . It is then served as a fancy dessert with after dinner coffee. In the US my family an d I like it plain with butter slathered on the slices, usually for dessert. You can make French toast with any leftover panettone but go easy on the syrup afterwards. It's also a delicious base for bread pudding too.

This Christmas don't settle for the usual fruitcake. Get a panettone for yourself. It'll be the best X-mas gift ever!

A Southern Christmas

The American South is known for its' variety of different dishes. This also means Southerners have a large choice of what they eat for Christmas. There are all sorts of meats , sides and of course desserts. The cuisine is a mix of African, Creole, English, Cajun and Spanish cooking. It is full of down home love with local ingredients. All this makes Christmas a special holiday a true feast for the senses.

Most Southerners appreciate a good ham to cook. This tradition has gone back to Colonial times when farms had plenty of pigs and hogs to spare. Fried turkey is another meat that;s on everyone;s dish on Christmas Day. There;s also that odd and bizarre creation of turducken where a chicken is stuffed inside a duck that in turn is stuffed inside a turkey. Of course there are home made biscuits to either dip in gravy or spread with butter. Sides usually consist of yams , okra, collard greens and green beans.

For Christmas parties there's always egg nog and non alcoholic punches.With this come a variety of sweets from pecan pies to snowflake pudding, a vanilla pudding riddled with coconut flakes. There is also the usual fruitcake. soaked in bourbon or whiskey as well as small butter cookies. Thanks to the French traditions. Louisianians have buche de Noel, a traditional holiday cake baked in the shape of the Yule log. There are also pralines for the kids to nibble on as they play with their new toys.

Christmas in the South is a unique experience, full of native foods and centuries old recipes. They make Christmas not only fun but full of tasty treats.