Celebrating Versailles

Desserts had their renaissance and glory days during the last days of the Bourbons. They were creamy, and elegant, sculpted and delicious. Now thanks to a modern day pastry chef , home bakers and chefs can recreate them for their summer parties.

Yottom Ottolenghi wrote about them the other day in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. He is hosting a night at the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the museum's Visitors To Versailles exhibit. It is a joint venture between the Met and the Chateau de Versailles, featuring every aspect of court life from April to closing at the end of July. To celebrate his night there, Chef Ottolenghi has created two desserts worthy of any Versailles pastry chef. One is an elaborate apricot tart made with the heavenly frangipane cream and marzipan a must and luxury of Marie Antoinette. On top of the tart is a creme patisserie layer, a cooked cream that was becoming popular in the late 1700's. It's kind of like a sweet roux married to a sabayon thanks to the addition of  four egg yolks. The star of this though, is poached apricots. Lime and Sauternes, a sweet white  dessert wine are added to it for more flavor. The apricots are cooked again, this time baked when they 're added to the pie. The pie and all its' components is a bit to elaborate to make during these sweltering summer days. Unfortunately there are no short cuts here.

Luckily, there is an easier alternative which I wanted to try. This still has the poached apricots in Sauterne  but without all the fuss of crusts and layering different creams. It is still an elaborate make and will probably take me an entire afternoon. I do want to try this with the apricots but also want to try this with peaches and possibly nectarines.. Could berries be added, like strawberries or blackberries?. I was wondering if it's really necessary to add the Sauterne ttoo - can I just use water?. It's only a scant cup. Will the additional flavor really be missed? Maybe. The fruit slices are cooked twice, once poached, then briefly cooked over a high heat. The cream that goes with it is a marriage of mascarpone and heavy cream. Unsalted and toasted pistachios are added to it along with crushed amaretti cookies and sugar. Again I wonder if I can put in variations. Suppose salted pistachios are used for more depth and to cut the sweetness? As for amaretti cookies which are a rarity around here in the summer - can I switch in crushed biscotti? Both are flavored with anise, except the biscotti has a milder dose of it.  Then another interesting poser- can I freeze it to make a kind of semi freddo? That would make a neat dessert with the apricots.

The French patisserie chefs of Versailles made amazing desserts. It will be fun to emulate them and create these sweets. They are a salute to the glory of Gallic baking and cooking. Let's see if us commoners can recreate them,

The Joy Of Clotted Cream

Yesterday I wrote about clotted cream. This is a British delicacy, originating in Dorset, a sunny southern shire located on the English Channel. Thanks to research, I found out that Yanks can make this at home. It's a pretty easy recipe with several variations. Which ever one you try , it's bound to be good.

Clotted cream has a very old history in the United Kingdom. The Phoenicians first brought it to Dorset, probably in what is now modern day Torquay .They were trading tin with the ancient Britons  when they left the idea. Creating clotted cream was an easy way of storing milk without it  becoming spoiled.  Clotted or clouted cream is when clots or curds are form after a steaming process.The original recipe calls for scalding  the milk, then simmering it. The cream  was then set out overnight to gel . The curds  or clots were then scooped out and served with scones  along with a variety of  jams.

Making clotted cream in an American kitchen is relatively easy. The main ingredient is heavy cream. You use a double boiler to heat it for forty five minutes to the hour. The temperature should be  between 175 to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.It;s cooled then the clots are skimmed and put into the fridge right away. There are easier  recipes that involve mixing sour cream or marscapone cheese with heavy cream.A teaspoon of powdered sugar is added to tempered the tang. You can try these  albeit it won't be as good as the original. If you're having an English tea at home with a dozen or more friends, then whip up these recipes. These are quick to make  and you can make them in large batches,

You don't have to send off to a British food website for clotted cream . You can make this treat yourself, using either traditional or non traditional recipes. The result will be wonderful , especially on fresh , hot scones and different jams.

Cannolis - That Sicilian Treat

Sicily is known for a lot of things: its ancient culture, its; beautiful beaches and of course its variety of foods, including pastries. The last has a srtandout universally loved by everyone. This is the cannoli, a crisp fried tube filled with a creamy ricotta mix. There have been variations on the recipe but the original one is the best.

Cannoli which is the plural started in Palermo during the Carnevale season leading up to lent. The tubes were representative of fertility and possibly first served a the harem of Caltisenetta indicating an Arab influence, The shells themselves are made from butter flour, vegetable oil and sometimes a dash of cinnamon for added flavor and color. These are then fried in hot oil and left to drain on paper towels. The filling traditionally is a blend of ricotta or marscapone cheese, and confectioner‘s sugar blended to a creamy consistency. Chocolate chip are added as are citron and candied cherries to give it color and taste. Once the cannoli are filled the ends can be dusted with chopped green pistachios. The cannoli should be eaten when the shell is crispy and fresh otherwise the filling will sog up the pastry.

There are some variations to it. Fro one you can buy premade cannoli shells which does save a lot of time and trouble. I’ve bought these and found they were OK. I also vary mine with filling them with pudding and ice cream for a different spin. Some New York bakers do their own thing, such as dipping the shells in dark chocolate or adding unusual flavors such as root beer and peanut butter and jelly to the fillings. The best cannolis , though are the traditional ones with little or no change to the original recipe.

Cannolis are a wonderful treat, They offer both a crispy crunch and a soft sweet filling. They’re a wonderful dessert with a cup of hot steamy espresso, especially now during the fall.

Panettone - Fruitcake Done Right

Mention fruitcake to anyone and you're sure to get a wrinkled nose or gagging sounds. Let's face it. No one likes a leaden loaf fill with fruit that looks like it was picked during the Neolithic era. However leave it to the Italians to save this culinary reject and turn it into something chic and class. Panettone is the perfect holiday fruitcake. It can be served with everything from breakfast coffee to after dinner wine.

Panettone is a true Milanese invention. The name itself means "large loaf" in Italian but legend has it it was either named for the baker Toni, it or for the an assistant who helped bake it.Legend also has it that it was first served at the wedding of noted Milanse nobleman and falconer , Ughetto Atellani to for Toni's daughter Adalgisa. There's also the Christmas legend that a cook had nothing to give out for the holy day so he concocted a bread full of candied fruit and raisins. Not wanting to take credit he said his assistant Toni made it, hence pan de Toni or panettone. A few centuries later, Angelo Motta , a Milanese baker produced it fro the masses in 1919. Another baker , Gioacchino Alamagna did the same and a rivalry broke out. Motta is credited with giving the bread its' modern look, He let the dough rise to three times the normal height for bread during a period of twenty hours. (usually most bread is left to rise for only twelve. hours before baking). The average panettone is about ten inches high and almost impossible to toast in a toast in a toaster. Every slice has to be halved to have it warmed.

How to eat panettone? My one cousin in Piedmonte's Val Susa, Pat, scoops out the middle and fills it with a sweetened form of marscapone cheese. Sabayon is also used . It is then served as a fancy dessert with after dinner coffee. In the US my family an d I like it plain with butter slathered on the slices, usually for dessert. You can make French toast with any leftover panettone but go easy on the syrup afterwards. It's also a delicious base for bread pudding too.

This Christmas don't settle for the usual fruitcake. Get a panettone for yourself. It'll be the best X-mas gift ever!