It's Panettone Season

 They're everywhere. In stores. Gracing bakery windows. On every Nonna's holiday table. What are these popular holiday treats?Panettone or panetung if you grew up in a Piedmontese household.

Regular contributor Julia Moskin wrote about thos beloved and historic bread in today's New YorkTimes Food section. This traditionally Northern Italian treat has become a global moneymaker with all sorts of variation over the world. The standard which originated in fifteenth Century Milan is a domed sweet bread with a golden crumb. scented and stidded with sugared fruit.It's in the same family as German stollen,Polish chalka and British fruitcake.It was made with expensive ingredients like eggs and butter, refined flour and sugar, spices from Asia and preserved fruit from the Mediterranean.Later on bits of chocolate were added and regional ingredients such as lemon from the Amalfi coast and hazelnuts from Piemonte. As Italy unified panettone became the national symbol of Christmas.It was beribboned and wrapped in fancy paper. However thanks to commercial baking the bread lost some of its' famed luster.They became dry and flat tasting thanks to cheaper ingredients like candied squash (!!!) and milk powder.

Luckily there is a renaissance of sort for the treat.There are more artigianle ones being made as opposed to industriali, that is it's going back to it's hand wrought origins instead of being mass produced.There's also the threat of outside sources such as  Peruvians, Argentinian and Brazilian producers like Bauducco and D'Onofrio where Northern Italian immigrants settled in the late 19th Century (especially in Argentina). The other problem is that panetoone from MIlan is protected like San Marzano tomatoes or prosciutto from Bologna. Luigi Biasetto, a top baker in Padua is leading an effort to have the bread declared as part of the world's cultural heritage.It is a difficult bread to create. Two separate doughs are required, each a challenging mix of high gluten flour. The first dough is slowly fermented to a specific level of acidity which takes twelve to twenty four hours, depending on microbial activity.It requires constant monitoring of temperature and humidity. rich ingredients , much like during panettone's early days are being added in. Gucci (yes Gucci) and Fornasetti are adding Belgian centrifuged butter and pure Madagascar vanilla. The king of panettone Ray Schvartzapel creates a more bready one  with cherries and pistacchios. There are even World Cup style panettone competitions.

Panetoone is such a cherished holiday treat. You can spend a lot or a little on it. Every slice is a wonderful bite into tradition.