Showing posts with label The Pour. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Pour. Show all posts

Thursday, May 25, 2023

Weedy Wine

 Does wine need anything more added to it? Most purists would say no. Seltzer and ice are off the table Yet there are some vintners that are combining marijuana with various blends.Is it legal. Not quite. Is it delcious ? For some , yes.

Eric Asimov wrote about this in hi s weekly The Pour column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He has tasted weed wine many times.. The first was when he was in college and th e wine drunk.It was delicious .It;'s colorwas a ruby red but had a tinge of orange. It reminded him of dorm rooms late at night. From then, he experienced it on both coasts and surprisingly in france where one would think it would be frowned upon.for decades winemakers with a taste for cannabis have made weed wine. The cannibis is added to the grapes as they ferment to achieve a doubly intoxicating sip.Mr. Asimov compares it to adding it to brownies ,an early form of edibles.The question is will those who  enjoy edibles switch over to this wine? It's hard to say. right now selling marijuana infused alcohol is illegal. It can be made and given as a private brew. 

Despite the fact that  recreational cannibis is legal in twnety two states , two territorities and Washington DC. and the medicinal kind in thirty-eight. it;s still illegal federally. The federal government prohibits the two being siold together while it;s OK to sell each separately.There are supposedly cannibus infused wines and beers but they 're in mae only . The drinks have been made with  dealcoholized liquid. It seems to be an open secret with older California wine makers who made it wen weed was illegal in the state. Bob Linquist of Qupe Wineries in Santa Barbara have been making it since the early Nineties.He says a lot fo people keep it under htier hat .It's secret,.You either know or you don;t. He learned from Bill Wathen of  Foxen Vinyards in Santa Barbara County. Mr. warhen has been fermenting cannibuis and grapes since the ealry 1970's as a student at California Polytechnic State University. he adds a pound to a 228 liter barrel. It's not powerful., calling it "liquid Valium."

Will weed wine catch on? Maybe.it's still a strange idea to mix the two.


Thursday, July 2, 2020

The Forgotten Black WIne Professionals

It's strange to think that the wine industry can have prejudices. One would think the industry would be above that be and be more sophisticated and color blind. Yet it's not. There's a shocking amount of prejudice against people of color in every aspect , from sommelier to grower to reviewer. Hopefully, with the world rapidly changing it will be a thing of a past era.

Eric Asimov, who writes The Pour, the New York Times Food section's weekly wine review, wrote about this blatant but very rarely discussed racism. He interviewed African-Americans in from all aspects of the wine industry. All had the same experiences  which should never exist - not in the 21st Century, yet are still alive sadly enough. Mr. Asimov spoke with T.J. Douglas owner of The Urban Grape in Boston. He and his wife, Hadley, have this shop and also the business online. A white internet customer came into the store, walked by Mr. Douglas and went to a white sales rep, assuming he was the owner. Then there is Julia Coney, a Houston, wine writer and educator who regularly leads tasting and teaches wine education. yet as a consumer, wine merchants feel they have to tell her how to hold a wine glass and why she has to swirl it. They also steer her towards cheaper and sweeter wines, based on stereotypes.Growing tired of tokenism, she has created Black Wine Professionals, a database for African American wine growers and sellers. Stephen Satterfield , publisher of the quarterly food magazine, Whetstone. He was a sommelier but left due to the rampant racism.

Perhaps the most obvious is with Ntisiki Biyela, a South African wine marker. The industry has been white for the last four centuries, no surprise because the country suffered from apartheid since the early 1990's. Ms. Biyela was the first female black winemaker and in 2016 established her own company, Aslina Wines. Hers was the toughest battle (although all their battles were the toughest). She could not speak Afrikaans ,an offshoot of the Dutch accent and her fellow students asked why she was even there.  "You're not welcome here." was really its' undercurrent. Then as she moved into her career , growers didn't want to deal with her along with building an audience. Black South Africans are not versed in European wine speak. Ms. Biyela had to explain it in terms they would understand. Instead of a wine smelling like truffles  she would tell them it smells like amasi a sort of fermented milk. Others , from Carlton McCoy Junior, a master sommelier and Madeline Maldonado, a beverage distributor at Greenwich Village's Da Toscano have experienced white people's ignorance and stupidity.It is the same for wine server Andre Hueston Mack and Zwann Grays, the wine director at Olmsted. Yet it is Tammie Teclemriam, a Brooklyn freelance food and drinks writer who fired a good shot at Bon Appetit's editor-in-chief and his insensitivity towards African-Americans, and appearing in black face.He had to resign because of it.

The wine  industry, like the food industry should be free of prejudice and open to everyone. It's stupid and 19th Century to think that whites are better sommeliers and winemakers. Luckily it's the writers and publishers who will be shattering these old concepts.


Thursday, November 7, 2019

Climate Change And Our Crops

Climate change is affecting everything in our lives. Its' worst impact is on our food. Crops are being decimated. Earth is being scorched. Can there be any hope? Or help for that matter.

That was the subject of an eye opening article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Eric Asimov wrote extensively on what's happening in Napa Valley in his The Pour column. The famed wine country is under serious assault thanks to the rampant wildfires that are basically ravaging the whole state.It's not only the flames that are threatening the vineyards. There are problems caused by the Pacific Gas and Electric Company , namely no electricity. They have intentionally shut down their power to prevent their equipment from igniting any more fires Wide sections of wine country are shut down for days at a time. Then there are the droughts and cold snaps along with heat waves that affect the plants and soil. What is even worse are some winegrowers of  lack of interest. They are more concerned with competition from nearby cannabis growers along with worry about Chinese tariffs. Add to that there are no government regulations when it comes to wineries and their carbon footprints.

That's all changing, thankfully with the help of trade associations and individuals who care about Napa's future.Unfortunately , they can't demand action: only persuade winegrowers to amend their habits. It is work. Programs have to be promoted in both English and Spanish to reduce water use,along with promoting soil life and health.There has to be habitats for beneficial wildlife and diminish the need for tractor work. One of the most important musts is preventing more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere from the soil.The last will be hard because the soil must be tilled and that releases the gas into the ozone.  Again some winemakers are on board. The Napa Vintners, a winemaker's association has launched the Napa Green program that promotes energy efficiency,conservation and environmental action through third party certification for vineyards and wineries. It also helps that wineries such as  Spottswoode has been farming organically for years.The winery is also adapting for a hotter future too. They may have been influenced by their president and chief executive, Beth Novak Miliken . She is the chair of the Napa Vintners and part of the Napa Green program. Another, Jackson Family Wines have made lighter bottles which enabled them to reduce their emissions by three per cent.

Climate change is affecting everything, but more importantly our crops. Hopefully Napa Valley will battle it as best it can and still produce good wines. Smart green planning and smart green actions will be able to save it.

Wednesday, May 1, 2019

Eat Green Eat Clean

Can changing our eating habits lessen climate change? Can our food choices deter global warming? That's what the New York Times Food Section posed today in an unusual but thoughtful section. It's a keeper section full of ideas and suggestions.

The writers at the food section teamed up with the environmental writers from the newspapers to create an interesting guide for cleaner and greener eating. Julia Moskin along with Brad Plumer wrote most of the articles. Usual contributors such as Melissa Clark and Tejal Rao delved into kelp and tomatoes. Answers to such common questions  as do what I eat have an effect on climate change and should humans stop eating meat all together. There are also answers to such questions as which foods have the largest impact and what kind of seafood should I eat. It is a good guide to bring along for green food shopping. There are also assurances to vegetarian worries and concerns, especially about switching over to a meat free diet.The section includes different charts such as the environmental impact of cow's milk as opposed to other milks such as soy,rice , oat and almond.Another chart on the percentage of various food waste is an eye opener.It will definitely change some habits. There is also a quiz on the back page that everyone should take. Home chefs may change their shopping and cooking habits after answering a few questions.

Of course there are recipes along with articles on food but with a sustainable twist.Two must reads are Kim Severson's piece on how climate change is affecting regional crops and Somini Sengupta's one on how different countries - including the US - and their eating habits affect global warming.Ms. Severson takes us around the US , from Maine where an erratic frost season is damaging the blue gems to California's year round artichoke season where warmer weather is encouraging the choke's enemy the artichoke plume moth.Ms. Sengupta's article is inspirational. She has been to different countries such as Venezuela and Viet Nam but it is Kansas that provides us with some green culinary advice. Professor Devon Mihesuah , a professor of indigenous history  and culture at the University of Kansas has a garden and diet of the original indigenous Kansans, the Choctaws. This is dandelion salad from her garden and wild onions from neighboring fields. She doesn't spray weeds, because bees need them to  pollinate.Melissa Clark gives us kelp recipes while Tejal Rao explores climate change's effects on tomatoes and how farmers are creating hardier breeds. Even Eric Asimov of  the weekly The Pour column weighs in.Wine drinkers should ask about all aspects of wine making ,from the bottle itself to mowing the cover crop and the amount of electricity used.

How we eat and drink affects the planet. Use the Times guide to help you make crucial decisions. Even a small culinary change is a change in the right direction.,

Thursday, July 21, 2016

A Rare Grape A New Wine

Is it possible for a wine to be new and salty? Surprisingly yes.There's a different kind of wine hitting oenophile's palates this summer and it's far from the other traditional whites.

Eric Asimov wrote about this refreshing change of pace in his Pour column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He interviewed wine maker Salvo Foti at his vineyard located in the shadow of the famed Mt. Etna. He grows the rare carricante grapes that have been part of the Sicilian landscape  for millennia. They grow well  in the spongy volcanic soil. that's constantly soaked by endless rainstorms. In fact the Italian bureaucrats have recognized the area's affinity for the variety. In fact the brand Etna Bianco Superiore with 80 percent carricante can only come from the town,The flavor is unique because it has a certain salinity or saltiness Yet they can also be herbal and citrus tasting with a great minerality.. The wines are high in acidity and low in alcohol. They're different from the usual Sicilian whites, such as catarrato which can be bland tasting and low in acidity. Grillo and inzolia grapes can also be used for white wine however winemakers prefer using them for making the vastly popular  sweet, red Marsalas.American winemakers are taking notice of the grape. Californian winemaker, Kevin Harvey of Rhys Vineyards of the Santa Cruz Mountains is interested in growing the  variety.

Mr. Asimov suggests trying other carricante whites. They're not as rich , deep or complex as the Etna Bianco Superiore however they are cheaper ($20 to the other's $50) There is Tenuta delle Terre Nere which is only sixty-five percent carricante blended with four other grapes for a nice alternative.Like the better one, it does taste of herbs and citrus, and is both fresh and refreshing. There is the Outis  made by wine maker, Ciro Biondi whose vineyards are on the island's warmer southeast section,It is fresh and energetic with a fresh, lemony taste. There is also the 2014 vintage single vineyard Chianta Bianco that has a scent like a big basket of flowers. Another carricante based wine is Vigna de Milo which comes from outside the Etna region (and is also made by Signore Foti. Mr. Asimov declared it almost oceanic with great salinity and minerality. There is also Alberto Aiello  Graci's carricante, coming from north Etna which is seventy per cent and has a flavor that's herbal, mineral and sublime.  Carricante wines will probably be more and more popular here in the States as Californian wineries  start growing them,  I can see their novelty appealing to many American oenophiles , thanks to the novel salty taste.

Carricante wine is a different and refreshing alternative to the usual white wine. Try it chilled, this summer. Sip and pretend you're on a Sicilian beach , enjoying the breezes off the Mediterrenean

Saturday, June 4, 2016

The First Of The Summer Wines

These warms days and balmy nights call for a cool glass of wine.This is the time to enjoy one either with something fresh from the grill or the fruits of the season. Sit back and sip. Enjoy the wide array of summer wines.

Roses and white wines usually make the best bets for summer however a good hearty red wouldn't go amiss at a barbecue. For those grill days or nights think about a 2014 Penedo Borges Malbec.It's the perfect foil for a juicy steak or even a meaty homemade burger.It even has a  meaty aroma with top notes of wild herbs Its' flavor is that of ripe plums and dark fruits with a coating of vanilla .Another good red is the 2012 Cakebread Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon with its' aroma of chocolate and black current. It is rich and velvety, perfect with ribs or a T-bone.Australia has sent us some excellent vintages over the years and one summer standout is the 2013 Clonakilla Shiraz/ Viognier.It is expensive at $75 a bottle, but buy it for special occasions like milestone birthdays, engagements,graduations or promotions.Its' aroma is a mix if cracked pepper berries and plums.It's suggested that it should be served with a hog roast but it would be better with filet mignon or a Kansas City strip;A little less expensive and more down to earth are the Piedmontese Barberas. Eric Asimov mentioned it in his Pour column in the New York Times Food section on Wednesday. Have it with a homemade from the grill pizza that 's dense in sauce , cheese and toppings. It's a taste of Northern Italy in the backyard.

Whites and roses are the more preferred wines come the high temps. So many have poured themselves an iced glass of any of these as they 've cooled their feet in the pool or even the sprinkler. What are the best for sipping? They should be tart and refreshing , not to mention  ice cold. The most ideal summer wine is 2013 Domaine de l'Anjardiere La Noe and at $15 dollars a bottle a good buy. It's crisp, floral and easy to drink. It's a nice wine to serve at a brunch or outdoor bridal shower. Another ideal one is a 2014 Domaine Vincent Delaporte Sancerre Chavignol.It has a full, almost waxy purity of fruit with a bright clean finish. The  more expensive at $32 2012 Norman Hardie Chardonnay from New York's Niagara region, with a crispy white fruit taste. This is the time of year to mix the fruits of the season with wines. My family celebrates the season by adding fresh picked  strawberries to chilled flutes of Asti Spumente. The wine is from our region , Piedmonte and goes well with the berries.It's a heady alternative to sorbets along with better way to appreciate the berry's sweetness. Even though there's already a raspberry infused sparkling wine, fresh raspberries off the first harvest of the season is also wonderful in the wine. Think of it as an alternative to a tart or sorbet.

A summer's night calls for a chilled glass of a good wine. Pick one that compliments a hearty grilled steak or highlights the season's crop of berries. They're a refreshing and relaxing way to beat the heat.

Thursday, March 3, 2016

The Perfect Wine Shop


We all  know what makes a good food store. We know it;s a wide variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, good customer service and a welcoming atmosphere. Now what makes a good wine shop? Ask anyone and they'll draw a blank. What does make a liquor store stand out?

The answer was a very good article in yesterday's New York Times Food section.Eric Asimov wrote about it in  his Pour Column and it's worth saving. Many people just walk into their local liquor store and overlook the obvious signs . One , the ambient temperature should be fifty four degrees - the temperature of a wine cellar. If your local wine shop feels a bit too warm , then walk out  and find a moderately cooler one.Also, another bad sign is if the place is flooded with sunlight.  A liquor store should be dark, otherwise  the light can damage the wine,especially if it's in clear or light blue bottles.
Dusty merchandise is also a telling sign, The staff has been lax in upkeep and possible negligent with inventory. Another sign of an attentive sales force. Look at the description listed under the bottles.Staff written ones means they're personally involved and a distinct point of view. They'll also offer you advice on what to  buy  and even offer samples.Buyers should also note if the bottles are laying down or standing up. It's a good sign if they're placed on their side, this way the cork won't dry out  and let in oxygen.This can oxidize the wine.

Mr. Asimov also visits some of the better wines shops across the country. He visits Bay Grape in San Francisco which even has wifi and tables  There are also discussion groups with sales people leading them and teaching shoppers about different types. All of this has made Bay Grape a popular wine shop with a loyal clientele. New York City also has wine shops that are much more. Take Black Label Wine Merchants..Sales clerks will either  engage shoppers in conversations to determine their likes and dislikes or back away from the more distant ones. Some stores even track their shoppers purchases, to better anticipate their next trips to the store as well as help them in the future. Wine shop owner.Vanessa Moore, of Unwined In Alexandria Virginia,trains her staff to recognize customers by name and get to know their tastes. There's also another family aspect  in the sense that she only buys from family wineries. She does change brands frequently  which can turn off devotees of certain wineries. Greenwich Village's Some Good Wine offers wines from places that normally aren't associated with wine making, from the Canary Islands, Corsica and the Czech Republic, thanks to owner Jeremy' Blocks passion for exotic wines.This means his customers can also expand their repertoire too.

A good wine shop has to have several different components to be successful. The bottom line is both the merchandise and the customers  have to be treated special. This translates into a liquor stoe with a long life and a loyal follwing.



Thursday, March 14, 2013

Alpine Wines

Yesterday was a salute to Piedmonte, Italy where the new pope's family came from. The New York Times Dining section also welcomed Francis I with a salute to not only Piedmontese wines but to all Northern Italian wines of that area. These go well with almost everything kind of meal and are as different as the northern provinces.

Eric Asimov , who  writes  weekly for the The Pour, the weekly wine column, must have had a ball with the tasting. He got to try some of the Val' d'"Aosta's best fermentation's,.These can be strong tasting and smelling, their aromas with a large acetone odor (think opened nail polish bottle).He did enjoy the cornalon, made mostly in the Swiss Alps.Piedmonte also came in at number two with a nebbiola grape.

If you want a fruity wine then try the Maison Anselmet. A bit steeply priced at thirty dollars, it is bright with an earthy flavor.I can see this wine going well with the region's lighter cheeses.such as fontina (which is like Brie). There is also Fumin which is also bright and has a strong spiciness. If you want a drink that will match the area's hearty meals,. then try Rosso 2007,  which is a rich deep , almost ruby red wine. For funkiness try the licorice ENfer d:Anvier (translated roughly as the hell of Anvier which is a reference to how the sun hits the local vineyards.

The northwest regions of Italy produce the most interesting wines with different tastes and aromas. Try them this Spring. It's the flavor of Alpine vineyards.


Thursday, November 18, 2010

Raise A Glass of Cider

This is the season for a chilled, heady glass of hard cider. it reflects the labors of the season as well as the abundance of a good harvest. The Times Dining section celebrated it in yesterdays' weekly column The Pour with Eric Asimov. Luckily Mr Asimov got to sample a few interesting ones at the Manhattan bar Dovetail. This make me envious of his job. Cider, refreshingly bracing and fruity crisp is probably the best drink out there.


I have always labored under the thought that most ciders were either English, American or French . Reading the article I found that there are refreshing Spanish one. One from the Basque hills was tried and found fresh and complex. It is not a sparkling clear brew but ratter a cloudy one. Mr. Asimov also tried ice cider. This is where cider is frozen and then the water is removed to create more of an apple wine. American ciders are also good if they're done right. Most of the ciders originate in New England in Either Vermont or new Hampshire, The bright red Redfield apple is primarily used . it gives cider it;s rich red wine like look and intricate flavor.

What was an even bigger surprise to me is that there is a pear cider. This makes sense because pears and apples are basically from the same family. There are also pear and apple ciders which sound heavenly . I can just imagine the taste of both fruits along with the kick of a good hard cider.

This is definitely the time for cider. the season calls for a heady cup of it . Not only that it;s a celebration of the harvest. It is the perfect drink for any fall feast !