Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Spain. Show all posts

Tuesday, March 31, 2026

Global Easter

Easter is celebrated all over the world. While the holiday is relatively the same, the foods to enjoy are different. The main courses are varied as are the sides. The desserts , no matter where they originate are perfect for egg hunters bfg and small. What;s fun is planning your holiday table with this international buffet.

Ham us a big Easter main course.It['s was done because pigs were slaughtered in the fall and their hams were cured throughout the winter. Come Sprtng these were ready to be cooked. Germans and British families as well as Americans love a good ham for the holiday. However in Germany there is also rouladem, those delicious beef rolls stuffed with spinach. A lot of families also serve lamb along with spargill or white asparagus with Hollandaise sauce. Asparagus is in full season right now there and it;s figures heavily in German Spring dishes. The Italians have strong food traditions too.Thye too enjoy a good roasted lamb which symbolizes the Pascal one,Spring veggies like artichokes and peas figure heavily in their side dishes. The Italians, too, love asparagus but it;s shaved and served with shards of Pecorino cheese,The Spanish go the fish route ,celebrating with cod which is also a symbol of Easter. There are also many vegetarian dihes too.There so also a bean soup that starts off the meal.

Across the Pyrennes is France. They have always had a cool style with regards to holiday cooking. They celebrate with a Pare Berrichon. This is a mix of pork veal and whole hard boiled eggs wrapped in a puff pastry crust.It is a rich bite complete with the addition of Cognac shallots.,garlic and herbs.They eschew the ham and lamb of their neighbors and go for a poulet roti or roast chicken..It is covered with butter, from under the skin to being basted with a garlic butter to ensure a crispy skin. The French influence is seen all over the world, especially in the Caribbean island of Haiti. Their griot recipe is a platter of crispy, marinated pork It;s also served with pikliz a shredded carrot and cabbage slaw, along with fried plantains. There's also white rice and beans too to round out the meal. Another Caribean island that goes all out for the holiday is Jamaica.Jamaicans love making  Escovitch fish, which can either be red snapper, or parrot fish covered in a tangy red sauce made of pickled carrots, onions, peppers and Scotch Bonnet peppers. There is also fried fish and sides of rice and operas too.

ANy of these dishes would be perfect for the Easter table. They can be sophisticated or spicy. They celebrate joy with their mix of complex flavors.

Monday, March 30, 2026

An International Passover

 Jews all over the world will be celebrating Passover on Wednesday. Almost every  continent has traditional dishes for this holy week.It;s nice to incorporate these into traditional family tables for something different.

One of the most exotic of Jewish food is from the Sephardic sect. These are Jews from Spain,Portugal, NNorthAfrica and the Middle East.Their dishes reflect this with various spices and lamb dishes. There is mina de matza, similar to moussaka.This is a layered dish with soaked matzoh filled with spiced meat,spinach or cheese,Many Sephardim create kefkes de prasa,a deicious leek, egg and matzoh patty fried golden in oil. Potatoes and beef are added to them at times to create a heartier dish.North Africa is represented with fish and chickpeas.This is white fish cooked with tomato paste, garlic paprika, pepper and olives along wit chickpeas, The one thing that they shared with the Ashkenazi sect is tzimmes.Where they make theirs with sweet potatoes and dates the Sephardim add lamb to theirs for a sweet and savory flavor.There are also Spanish style pepper salad too along with a Tishpishti  cake made with ground nuts and matzoh meal.

A sizable Jewish population migrated to the Caribbean.There the dishes were influenced by African and tropical flavors. Fried chicken even gets makeover with using matzoh meal instead of regular white flour. Cinnamon and ginger  are added a long with paprika and cloves are added for zing and color.Red  Red is a Ghanian based dish ,suitable for the holiday .This is a savory dish full of black eyed peas, tomatoes, and onions. habanero give it a distinct fire  along with red palm oil. The bitter herb dish can be replaced by mustard greens or cilantro.Matzoh ball soup can also be served but there's a twist The matzoh balls are stuffed with turnips greens for more color and taste. Sweet potatoes are used in many of the dishes because they also represent hope in African cultures. South American Seders have their own take on dishes. too.There is the specialty huevos haminados taken from Mediterranean Jews .These are eggs cooked with coffee grounds, onions and olive oil.It results in eggs in a creamy brown sauce that has a unique flavor, There is also a matzoh babka made with matzoh eggs and nuts, probably taken from German Jews relocating to Argentina.

Passover has many dishes from all over the world.Try them for a different taste. They're interesting and exciting.

Tuesday, July 29, 2025

Hot Countries , Cool Food

 During a heat wave look to hot countries for recipes and food tips.These are the areas that know how to eat cool and satisfying dishes when the temps get to be too hot.  They're used to high temps. They know how to deal with blistering days and sweltering night.

Italy can be a heat dome in the summer especially around Rome and the southern part of the country. An easy dishes that requires little cooking is pasta con salsa cruda. You can use any pasta you want (and microwave it for an even easier cook) and create a room temperature sauce using ripe tomatoes, freshly cut basil leaves and olive oil. This is mixed with two to three tablespoons of olive oil and then set out while the pasta is cooking. The hot strands or pieces will heat up the sauce.It;sa great way to use up your tomato and basil harvest. Salsa cruda can be varied with a pinch of pepper flakes and even a teaspoon of red  or white wine vinegar tossed in,Salads are also big in an Italian summer table. Caprese salad is a yummy way to use those fresh vine ripened tomatoes and basil. Chunks of mozzarella are added for more flavor and it's drizzled with olive oil. Panzinella salad made with tomatoes and cubes of Italian bread is another tasty salad that can be made into a meal. It's drizzled with olive oil and seasoned with oregano.

Spain is another country that;s  suffers from violent heat waves. Spaniards take comfort in a cooling cup of gazpacho. This is a wonderful cold soup of peppers, tomatoes , onions and cucumbers. flavored with garlic . Olive oil is added for smoothness and then the whole mix is liquified into a chill creamy soup, perfect for blistering days. Serve with a crunchy bread dipped in oil. Greece is a beautiful country  loaded with tempting islands and turquoise waters. Yet it can get so hot that even making tasty kebabs can be a chore.The Greeks then head to their go to salads, - watermelon and feta and cooking cucumber with a Greek yogurt dressing. Try slices of bread in an easy made tzattziki dip.It combines the yogurt with strained cucumbers a long with lemon juice ,sea salt and olive oil. It goes well with leftover chicken too if you want to dres yesterday's rotisserie chicken. A fun dish from North America is Mexican guacamole. This is an easy make with mashing avocado slices and sliced tomatoes together. Add some garlic powder and minced onions along with a teaspoon of olive oil for smoothness. Serve with bought tortilla chips for a light lunch or supper.

Loo to these hot countries for cool recipe ideas. Their cuisine has withstood centuries of sweltering days and nights. Yet they survive and survive on good dishes.

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

The Year's Best of The Best

 This is the time of years for lists. There's the best , the worst, brightest, richest.It applies the same for food and drink.what make the cut this year?

The New York Times food section asked this and presented their bes tof 2023 lists(although this really should be done at the end of the year - there are two more weeks for that. Recipes, restaurants and libations. The recipes are a wonderful blend of savory and sweet. Home chefs will appreciate the Marry Me chicken, a Tiktok sensasation that has chciken married with sun dried tomatoes and heavy cream along with butter, tomatoes paste and Parmesan cheese . This delightful dish supposed ly has brught on several marriage proposals.  Another good dish is the white chicken chili, redolent with cumin and jlapenos.As for sweets, we're lucky to have the Magnolia banan pudding recipe, a perfect holiday dinner dessert and the comforting lemon pudding. There is also a recipe for a refreshing summery drink called tinto de verano from Spain. The drink, whose name means summer wine is a blend of  sweet vermouth, lemon lime soda , simple syrup and dry red wine. It's a nice breezy break from the usual holiday cocktails.

Of course there are the best wines also listed . Eric Asimov heads it off with a Prosecco spin off called Ca DeiZago Valdobeladene Mariarosa Frizzante 2022.Little known indigenous grapes are used to make it instead of the usual glera sort. There are also mid century sherries from Spain , Olaroasa, that are worth trying and sipping;One was from an island vinyard where the terroir produced a more robust flavor. There is also a good German emruch-Schomleber Monziger Resiling Kabinett 2021. It is lightly sweet and delicate, very fragile in taste. You may want to sip any of these whe you lookover the Food section's extensive  best cookbook list. The choices do not disappont and would make excellent Christmas gifts.Every cuisine is mentioned. For those who absolutely adore Chinese cuisine, get  A Very Chinese Cookbook 101 recipes From China and Not China (But Chinese Really)  The book contains detailed photos and tips from the authors, father and son team Jeffrey and Kevin Pang.Restauranteur Brecia Lopez has written an extensive book on Mexican grilling Asada , The Art of Mexican Grilling.

This has been a year of good food and drinking . Follow these lists for excellent recipes and liquors along with great holiday gifts. They really are at the top of their field.

Friday, October 22, 2021

The Birthplace Of Olive OIl

 Many think that the best and the birthplace of olive oil is Greece. Yet the Palestinian town of Rameh,Israel has also pressed olives for the last 5,000 years. The end result is a smooth sweet oil  that can go in either savory or sweet dishes.

Reem Kassis, a Palestinian food and culture writer wrote about this famed oil in Wednesday's New York Times Food section. she visited this  Northern Israeli town, located halfway between the Mediterranean and the Sea of Galilee. It is high up in the hills where the olive tress abound and have been long before Jesus Christ. It has long held the reputation of being the area's best olive oil. Its' color is a bright liquid gold with an aroma reminiscent of wild grasses and dandelion leaves that grow around the trees.Users describe it as rich and smooth  with a mouth feel of ghee or clarified butter. This area has long produced this oil, being the main producer of the ancient world.Now Spain and Southern Italy are the now the main producer's of the world's olive oils. Rameh still has an amazing two thousand acres of trees surrounding this hill town. Th eolifes and trees have long been praised in newspapers articles, books and even poetry. The village declares itself as the "queen of Palestinian oil".

Why is Rameh's oil so delicious? It has to do with harvesting.The trees are harvested later in the season than  the other olive trees in the region.This is due partly to the olive fruit fry that comes in from the coast. It works inland which means the more western regions have to harvest unripe olives. This happens much later in Rameh where it takes a while for the infestation to hit along with being much higher up. The olives are allowed to ripen to their full maturity which directly affects the color and flavor of the oil. According to local MAzen Ali, this makes for a "pleasant bitterness but is still delicious and fruit." There's also the favorable climate along with being grown in a nutrient rich soil.It's tilled by livestock and not treated with commercial fertilizers. There's also meticulous  care and pruning. which produces green olives with purple spots.Unfortunately the groves were restricted and untended during the 1948 Arab-Israeli War.Also closing the borders of Lebanon and Syria during this time helped too. Ms. Kassis also included  recipes for homemade pita and olive oil soaked za'atar and bugar majadura.a mix of lemtils and fried onions.

The world needs to know about Rameh's treasured olive oil. It would be perfect in cooking and even  baking. This is the epitome of oil, sweet, smooth and silky.


Friday, June 7, 2019

A Delicious Life In Spain Susan Lewis Solomont's Story

Imagine being an ambassador's spouse in a foreign country. There's the shock of the new, culture, language and mores. For Susan Lewis Solomont, wife of the Spanish ambassador under President Obama, this was the case. Yet her love for Spain and its' food conquered those qualms. Her book ,  Lost And  Found In Spain written about her  and her husband's three and a half years there is an interesting read.There's adventure, beauty , history and , of course, food.

Her book, published by Disruption Books. is a valentine to her family''s time in Spain. It truly is a riveting read, taking this Brooklyn born girl from her and her spouse, Alan's home in Boston to the embassy in Madrid. One of the aspects that I loved is her discovery of the diverse dishes from the country's many provinces. A few times I found myself  craving jamon , the dry cured ham from hazelnut fed pigs. There is an interesting chapter about she and Ambassador Solomont dining with the great and innovative chef , Ferran Adria, the genius behind the world famous restaurant El Bulli. Ms. Lewis-Solomont  was treated to a unique feast for all the senses. Also she and her husband, along with her sister and her husband were able to get a table at a restaurant  only open for six months a year and offers one seating a night.Getting there is a whole book unto itself, because it's located in a sandy cove, dangerous to get to by any vehicle. Yet the meal was well worth it. Chef Adria is a culinary scientist , bending all the rules of physics to create amazingly singular dishes. His sloe gin fizzes came with a head of  warm foam, mimetic peanuts, a peanut shaped pastry was filled with a seductive warm peanut and chocolate filling. Another adventure included a fabulous meal in a cave(!) restaurant where Ms. Lewis-Solomont enjoy grilled lamb chops and crawfish, washed down with homemade wine.

Another famed chef, Jose Andres, the great humanitarian who brought hot food and hope to the victims of Hurricane Maria in Puerto Rico, is also  mentioned in this memoir. He takes Ms. Lewis- Solomont on a trip to the gastronomy fair , Madrid Fusion, very early on in her tenure. For her, a foodie through and through, this was sheer heaven. She was able to taste all sorts of foods from all over the world. Best of all the outing ended with an invitation to Chef Andres favorite restaurant, Gerardo's in Oviedos, the capital of Asturias, in northern Spain.  The eatery, first established in 1882, featured several fresh  fish courses with the fish being caught that day in the nearby Bay of Biscay.  Of course ambassadors also have promote the country 's businesses and encourage trade with the US. The Solomonts promoted Spanish olives - used for Italian and Greek olive oils. This was a surprise for me, considering I'm the first one to advise people to always use Italian olive oil. Spanish olive oil is even more flavorful, and it's something that I'll try, thanks to the book.The Solomonts also had their own phenomenal cooks on the embassy grounds, Gustavo and Rosita, Below is Gustavo's gazpacho recipe (which will be featured in tomorrow's post) As much as I love cooking and baking, I also love history. The accounts of the Solomonts' trips across Spain were  fascinating . I adored reading about Sevilla where Jews, Arabs and Christians worked and lived together to create a modern , cosmopolitan center of learning and tolerance during the Middle Ages.

Lost And Found In Spain is a definite must read for anyone who loves, Spain, traveling and food.It is beautifully and lovingly written, a true valentine to the country so full of flavor. Read it and experience the wonder and joy Susan Lewis Solomont had for this amazing nation





Gustavo's Gazpacho

For about six people
8-9 medium-large tomatoes (red, ripe)
Two cucumbers (peeled)
1 Big red pepper
½ Big green pepper
¼ Onion 
¼  garlic clove 
1 cup of virgin olive oil  (preferably Spanish)
3 spoons of vinegar  If you use balsamic just one spoon, it' strong)
½ tsp spoon salt

Cut everything into pieces and put it together in a blender, use high speed--it really makes a smooth mix. 
Serve cold



O

Thursday, February 8, 2018

That Secret Ingredient?Squid!!

Squid is one of those foods that 's either met with smiles or frowns.If done right it's a nice alternative to shrimp or scallops.Squid can be made in a variety of  delicious dishes from pasta to stew. It's truly versatile, appealing to seafood lovers who want to change it up a bit.

David Tanis wrote about it in his column A City Kitchen. in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Squid and its' cousin, cuttlefish is eaten a variety of various ways in different parts of the world.It can be sauteed in garlic, parsley and lemon for a bright, fresh taste Cooked in a rich sauce containing its' own ink, it 's at home in risotto, pasta or paella.Squid or calamari can be stuffed with breadcrumbs for a take on a popular Mediterranean dish. Want crunch? Then try the Chinese "salt and pepper' squid that has a whisper of the famed Five Spices.Many other cultures enjoy barbecued or fried squid as well. Mr Tanis reminisces about a dried squid he bought off a street vendor while visiting Thailand. It was briefly toasted over hot coals, flattened to the thickness of a potato chip and served with a spicy dipping sauce. The Spanish sell a paper cone full of flash fried cuttlefish rings called chipirones  that  are doused with lemon juice. Of course the Southern Italians have calamari. Done right it can be crispy and slightly chewy , perfect for dipping into marinara sauce.

Mr. Tanis doesn't offer a quick crispy snack. Instead he proposes a stew made with the sea creature. It's an out of  the ordinary  idea. Squid and stew usually aren't combined, yet it is popular in some parts of Spain.The Catalans usually cook it with chickpeas and tomatoes, sort of like a thick chowder. Clams are sometimes tossed in too. Mr. Tanis first ate in in a restaurant north of Barcelona. It was done in such a way that it looked like braised veal but tasted like pot roast.It's an easy stew so novice chefs can give it a try.Use a heavy soup pot and start with chicken broth, an onion, a thyme sprig and white wine. Add some carrots and turnips along with chopped leeks and peas. Cleaning it , however, is not for the squeamish. The head and innards have to be yanked out through the tail (where the tentacles are). The tail can be cut off and used in the stew or saved for calamari. The backbone or cuttle also has to removed.It's a clear bone, resembling hard plastic. The squid's skin can also be removed. It's simply tearing it away from the flesh for a cleaner look.

Squid stew sounds like a perfect dish on a winter's night. It's rich with the taste of the sea and the land. It makes for an interesting supper.

Thursday, February 1, 2018

Food For A Queen

What did medieval people eat? You could read scores of  articles , especially on online and discover a whole trove of info. Or you could just go to your local Medieval Times, and participate in a ground breaking show.

Kim Severson did just that in her article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. This is an interesting place, part Disney, part dinner theater - all fun. The company, started in 1973 by Jose Mortener on the island of Mallorca.His estate was the first setting for the jousting and dining and then moved to where the musical festival was held, Benidorm in 1977. American investors got involved and the first American Medieval Times was opened in Orlando ,Florida in 1983. One opened near me in Lyndhurst, New Jersey in 1990. Yes, I went with family. I remember taking pictures with the king and queenalong with eating the food with the gusto of Henry VIII.  We feasted on roasted chicken and baked potatoes  tearing  all of it with our hands. The meal was followed by some kind of apple tart and cups of tea and coffee.. It was an expensive night out then, with a thirty dollar price tag followed by ten dollars a person for pics with the faux royals. Now it's a whopping sixty dollars with about the same amount of food and drink. The only addition is the  falconry  show, that happens between the jousts.

Medieval Times has made the news recently because their show now feature a queen as opposed to a king.Ms. Severson interviewed the one from Dallas, Monet Lerner. She shares the title with two other actresses, and all feel that's empowering  to little girls. However some may have a different view. It seems Medieval Times' meals are also stars, impressing visitors. The stubby ears of corn that go with the chicken have drawn raves from diners.Stacey Freeman of the Dallas domain raves about them. They are steamed with soy butter (!), sugar, paprika and a little cayenne pepper.This is more ground breaking than spotlighting the female performers. The kitchen uses soy instead of butter or margarine which is a huge breakthrough. What is also impressive is that they also offer vegan meals.of a three bean strew with fire  roasted tomatoes and brown rice. There's also hummus and warm pita bread along with carrot and celery sticks. Dessert is fresh fruit or Italian ices, unlike the regular meal that ends with a pastry (possibly an apple turnover like in the old days) The regular meal has a tomato bisque which is kind of like Campbell's/ They still sell soda as well as tankards of wine and beer.

Medieval Times may have made the news because the queens of their castles are now the stars. What is more gronbreaking is that they're pdating their meals to suit everyone's tastes/They're not stuck in the good old days anymore.

Saturday, December 9, 2017

The Best Salt On Earth

Salt is a crucial part of cooking and baking.Selina Naturally knows this and has produces a variety of different sea and river salts that elevates savory and sweet recipes to pure gourmet levels. Best of all there is a wide range of them to experiment with and have fun creating unique dishes.

The company was formerly known as The Grain and Salt Company, started by Belgian born Jacques Delangre a doctor, in 1976, and actually sells much more than just sea salt or fleur de sel.You could also buy all natural body and hair products along with sea salt for animals (yes, they need a tiny pinch of it - but check with your vet first before you buy).There's also coconut ghee and raw honey as well as monkfruit sweetener and cassava flour for all natural baking.They even sell beverages such as coconut water along with soups such as the Paleo bone broth.Selina naturally also makes  health and body products, geared for men and women's health as well as for weight loss and electrolyte balancing. However the company is primarily known for its' salts.It has branched out in river salts ,which are taken from subterranean rivers. The owners harvest their salts from off the coasts of ,France, Spain ,Guatamala,Portugal,  and Hawaii. To be honest, every kitchen needs a shaker of Selena Naturally salts and you can also buy those at the site too.The family who owns the company has also come up with a sea salt cook book, perfect for those who are new or leery about cooking with too much salt.

This company has the most amazing array of salts. I love their liquid salt from their Fossil River collection. This has several flavors such as cucumber, garlic and truffle. I used the garlic to make a garlic bread that was lighter than the usual loaf  because the bread was spritzed with an infusion of garlic. It was also lightly salted, which heightened the taste. There is also a cucumber infused liquid salt that can be used lightly on salads.Another favorite is the Fossil River salts that are mixed with everything from herbs to rose petals!  This last one I can see sprinkled on shortbread to heighten the buttery taste as well as for decoration. Selina Naturally also mixes their salts with Szechuan pepper and regular peppercorns separately. This is perfect for sprinkling over any meat, whether chicken or steaks  for some kick. Try the wasabi and sesame infused salt over fish and tempura for an interesting meld. of tastes.  There is also a grilling salt that would go well over any rib eye steak along with their applewood smoked salt. Sprinkle some of this over ribs to bring out the meat's unami. .Celtic Sea Salt also has salts blended with dried rosemary that can easily be added to any homemade tomato sauce along with garlic salt  (again reserved for making garlic bread ) and celery salt, perfect for salads.

Selina Naturally has the best array of sea and river salts. Use them to heighten any savory or sweet recipe. They bring a delicious and nutritious kick of flavor to any dish


Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Celebrating All Soul's And All Saint's Days

Today is All Soul's Day while tomorrow is All Saint's Day. Before Halloween became a big holiday , these two holy days were filled with remembrance and feasting throughout the Christian world. The souls gone and the saints who protect can still be remembered with prayers and food.

Today is huge in Mexico. It's a time when families visit cemeteries , bringing favorite foods for loved ones lost as well as for  themselves.The indigenous people originally celebrated in the beginning of summer and the holiday was then moved to coincide with the Christian days of remembrance after  Spanish colonization.Many celebrate the day with homemade tamales for both the living and deceased along with pan de los muertos., a type of sweet bread. Anise seeds flavor it , giving the same taste as the Italian biscotti.Drinks to toast and commemorate are Jamaican iced tea, a type of tea made with Jamaican hibiscus  plant's flowers and leaves along with pulque  -a type of alcoholic beverage made with the fermented sap of the agave plant. Other drinks are atole and champurrdo, corn or masa based drinks flavored with sugar, vanilla and cinnamon.Guatamalens make fiambre ,a kind of picnic course that includes sausages and cold cuts along with pickled baby corn, beets and onions.. There are also various cheeses, chicken and olives. Some families even include Brussels sprouts and pacaya flowers, from the pacaya palm. The last is dipped in egg batter and then fried.

Europe also celebrates  as it has since the Sixth Century AD. In Italy, France and Spain families roast chestnuts, cutting a cross in each one to allow steam to rise. This is symbolic of the soul leaving the body. The Spaniards also make pannellets or almond cakes. The dough is formed with mashed potatoes, sugar and almonds.and then rolled in  beaten egg and pine nuts. They resemble the Italian cookies, pignoli. In England, it's soul cakes, popularized in Sting's song of the same name. These are yeast breads , flavored with cinnamon and decorated with raisins. They were baked in the shape of men and women ,and given out to children who went begging.All Saint's day also gets special treats, especially in Italy and Sicily. Children who pray for the passed are rewarded with the homemade favi de morti , beans of the dead. These are almond paste cookies that have been spiced up with lemon and cinnamon.It's kind of like a baked marzipan that's have been rolled into long rolls then cut into pieces to resemble broad beans.

All Soul's Day  and All Saint's Day are a time of prayer and remembrance. They are also a time to celebrate those we have lost with good food and feasts. They are solemn days but days filled with flavor.

Thursday, August 11, 2016

Tomato Time

This is the time for tomatoes. They're everywhere, from big bushel baskets at the farmer's market to hanging in clusters off backyard plants. What is great about the tomato is that it's so versatile. It's amazing what home chefs can do with them, especially with anchovies. Surprisingly it's a great marriage of opposites..

David Tanis knows this and featured the fruit in his A City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Food section.He gives us three tasty recipes home chefs can play with during the height of the tomato season.What is unusual about them is that they all contain anchovies. The fish's saltiness and meatiness   gives the dishes a unami flavor that pairs well with the tomatoes' sweetness.  He recommends going for the best. They'll obviously cost more but so worth it. Look for the oil packed kind from Spain, southern France or Italy.Most Italian delis sell salt packed versions that still have all their bones These require extra work that will require rinsing and deboning. Don't worry about this last. Filleting them is easy. Using them pays off. Theye have a greater texture and tend to be milder than the ones packed in oil. Mr. Tanis does offer a tip about the packed ones - briefly rinse them in lukewarm water, followed by blotting them on paper towels.Don't go for the paste. Save that for brushing on grilled steaks.To add to the flavor , quickly the tomatoes them to give them a smokiness

The three recipes offered are easy along with being flavorful.The first is charred tomatoes with eggs, anchovies and bread crumbs. Alternate charred tomato slices and hard boiled eggs on platter Drape the anchovy fillets over the eggs and then add a Dijon mustard infused vinaigrette. Freshly ground bread crumbs are them sprinkled over the entire dish, sort of like a cold version of tomatoes Provencale. The next dish is kind of a cross between pizza and pissaladiere. It is an olive oil based pastry crust dotted with tomatoes and mozzarella. Top with the fillets along with capers and olives if you want. Mr. Tanis also recommends adding  rosemary and hot pepper too.One of the easiest and best to make during these sweltering days is pasta fredda. The sauce is a cold one, prepared hours in advance.It's a blend of chopped red onion and cherry tomatoes, anchovies, garlic and pepper with olive oil and vinegar as the base. Keep in the fridge for three hours. Use spaghetti or linguine for the pasta and cook according to directions. Add the cherry tomato sauce along with extra olive oil and basil.

This is the height of the tomato season right now. Pair them with anchovies for a flavorful marriage that works well. It's a great union of salty and sweet.

Tuesday, July 5, 2016

Feasting On Your Feast Day

Onamasticas or name days are kind of like having a second birthday. There are favorite foods and gifts to be had , along with praying or acknowledging the saint you were named after.It's a reflective day but also one filled with treats.

One of the most famous name days is St Patrick's on March 17th, Of course , everyone celebrates that day with beer and corned beef. Yet it should be a special day as well for those named Patrick or Patricia.The second most famous name day is St. Valentine's, February 14th. It's a day for romance and sweethearts but should also be observed for the Valentines and Valentinas out there too.Name days are big throughout  Europe  along with being observed in Latin American countries and Hispanic households here in the States.The Germans equate a name day  with a birthday so there's cake and gifts. Bulgarian children bring chocolates and other treats to school to share their day with classmates. Hungary has similar traditions except men receive wine on their saints days while kids get special treats to dole out to  friends.If you;re in Italy expect a cake to honor your day while in Slovakia enjoy a  big do that can rival a birthday.Spain and Hispanic America used go all out too for onamasticas however now they're more quieter. Not so for the Russians/ They are another nationality that go crazy on name days. There are big parties with lots of food and drink, rivaling birthday parties.

 Name days are not really celebrated here in the States , save for some families who carry on their ancestors' traditions. Today is St. Elizabeth's Day so both my Mom and I celebrate .We just had a nice lunch at The Olive Garden and enjoyed their latest dessert - chocolate lasagna cake. (you read right,It's a chocolate sponge cake layered with cheesecake and a rich fudge layer) Saint's days don't have to be elaborate affairs. The summer onimastica parties can be a small barbecue featuring the honoree's favorite foods. Try filet mignon or a T-bone for a lux treat. For a little more fun cook up some kabobs with chicken  and a variety of veggies. End with a small cake. Again, this doesn't have to be an elaborate iced creation, Think strawberry short cake or a peach or berry cobbler with fresh whipped cream or creme fraiche. The meal could  also end with a chocolate fondue too,dipping the fruits of the season along with marshmallows in melted chocolate. For fall and winter onamasticas. try a chili pie or maybe individual Cornish hens with stuffing.End the meal with a home made apple or pear galette topped with vanilla ice cream. Give the honoree a small ballotin of fine chocolates for a nice gift or a gift certificate at the local coffee shop.

Name days are meant to honor not just the saint but the person named after him or her. Celebrate with a favorite food or dinner out .It's a day of  honoring but also of feasting as well.

Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Gazpacho A Hot Weather Cooler

During these hellish times it's nice to have a cool, soothing meal. Gazpacho, that Spanish classic  fits the bill nicely, Made right it's a refreshing meal, perfect for a mid summer heat wave.Best of al it's easy to whip up , another plus in the depths of ultra hot weather.

Julia Moskin wrote about this summer treat in today's New York Times Food section. Americans have been making it - wrong - for years. Ours looks like a home made V-8.Aother wrong doing, we're guilty of  - adding croutons or vegetable cubes.  The true version is silky, a celebration of summer harvests , perfect with any tapas.Also it should be eaten as soup in a mug, more of a refreshing drink than an actual potage. It should be served in a pitcher, poured, not ladled into glasses or tumblers either. Another idea to get into the gazpacho mindset is using the right ingredients.The key ingredient is olive oil, This is the fat that gives the soup it's creamy orange color. Ms Moskin and I both recommend using an extra light virgin olive oil.A Spanish oil is preferred because it  has a peppery taste that will come through in the mix. This will give the soup a kind of fluffiness.Another must have is the right  pepper. Buy the cubanelle or the Italian frying pepper.If you can't get that then sub in the Anaheim. These have a definite bite, unlike the average green pepper which can have a grassy flavor.

Gazpacho is also tomato heavy as well. Use any ripe red ones, but the plum ones do have a extra sweetness to them . They need to be cored and roughly cut into chunks. You'll also need an eight inch cucumber and one mild small onion and garlic splash of sherry vinegar is also added.Once you have these then the next step is having a good blender. THis is crucial in creating a silky texture.The water content of  both the cukes and tomatoes provide the liquid, however if it does get too thick, then add a few tablespoons of water.If you don't have a power blender that completely liquefies the veggies, then  next step is poring it through a food mill or a sieve to get rid of any skins.The liquid should be transferred to a large pitcher and chilled for at least six hours before serving. The best bet is to make it the night before and then serve it for lunch the next . You can do this too for a party, making it the night before   as a  different side with  barbecue.

Gazpacho is the perfect antidote for these oven like days and nights It is cool and refreshing, along with being a perfect mix of the summer harvest. Make one to ice down. It's the culinary equivalent of running through a sprinkler.

Tuesday, July 28, 2015

Hot Weather Haute Cuisine

It is mid summer , a time when even the thought of  cooking in a hot kitchen is just too much. Unfortunately mostly everyone, even the most experienced or diligent home chefs slap together sandwiches or worse - order out when the temps go into scorching highs. However cuisine and diets shouldn't suffer . Tasty  and even classy dishes can be made during a heat wave.

The best idea is to look at Mediterranean cuisine, from Spain to Syria , from the south of France to the north of Africa. Home chefs from warm weather countries know how to cook when Mother Nature turns the heat up. One of the easiest and most flavorful is the French Provencale of Nice and Marseilles. Nothing beats a simple pan bagnat which is just slicing whole wheat boules  or rounded bread lengthwise an filling with tuna, anchovies and sliced hard boiled eggs. Add sliced tomatoes, onions and green peppers along with olives  then wrap the sandwich and let it sit for two hours. You can put a brick or anything heavy over it so that the oil is fully absorbed in the bread. The Spanish coast gives us ceviche which is a fish dish that is cooked simply in a lime juice marinade. The fish is usually halibut, turbot or sea bass filets and the whole process takes 30 minutes tops in the fridge. Like the Spanish, the Italians have elegant and quick dishes to make during these steamy estates or summers.One favorite is just a simple dish of veggies , crudo misto with an olive oil dressing .It's a classy way of making sure every one receives their daily dose of veggies. Have sliced Italian bread too for sopping up the oil and a chilled bottle of your favorite wine on the side


If you want elegant and exotic then look to the Arab countries like Morocco and Tangiers. Couscous is an quick  dish and can be customized to suit individual tastes Home chefs can have a taste of the Kasbah in only ten minutes. thanks to being easily cooked up in either water or broth. Spices can be added along with fresh veggies. It can also be turned into a cooling salad, made even more refreshing with the addition of mint leaves. For a quick snack think bagels dipped in za'atar with olive oil. Za.atar is the hottest trend of the year and dates back thousands of years. It is a mix of ground sesame seeds, thyme , oregano and marjoram. Greek sumac is also added which you can buy at specialty stores,Don't worry if you can't find it,The recipe doesn't have to be exact. Add some coarse salt to finish it. Dip toasted bagel or pita in it for a quick Sunday night supper. It can also go on salads and even couscous as well as barbecued meats.Another hot weather cuisine is Greek and they are a country once  known for ritzy out door cafes that serve tasty kabobs made with lamb or chicken The meat is marinaded in a flavorful lemon and olive oil marinade.A refreshing light meal is tzatziki, a chilled yogurt dip flavored with pureed garlic. Pita bread is dipped into it but you could also use veggies too.

Elegant and tasty meals can still be made despite the heat wave. Look to the ultra chic Mediterranean region for inspiration. There's always a classy dish that's super easy to make and fun to eat.

Thursday, May 23, 2013

A True Summery Sangria

The summer calls for sangria to accompany rich seafood paellas and grilled spicy  chops. It is the perfect drink also for cooling down on hot nights. Yet it doesn'thave to be cliched as it has been for decades.It can be as light and refreshing, great for the steamy season ahead.

Most people know sangrias as an almost Hawaiian Punch creation loaded with fruit. Eric Asimov  goes well past this in yesterday's The Our Column in the Wednesday Food and Dining section of The New York Times. Sangria, he discovered was usually served in a sprinkling of Spanish restaurants that opened up in New York after the 1939 Spanish Civil War. It was reintroduced after the 1964 World's Fair.What was introduced then is what Americans have been drinking ever since. Unfortunately it's more of an Americanized soda pop version of the drink, made with Rioja and a ton of fruit chunks. It's a lot different in its' native region, After all sangria (translates from blood in Spanish) has been around for 2,000 when the Romans cultivated vineyards in Spain.

Mr. Asimov has discovered a sangria that is perfect in true flavor. Thanks to bartender,Rafael Mateo, at the Spanish  Pata Negra in Manhattan's East Village. Mr. Mateo uses a base of garnacha instead of Riojo because it's not tannic, Layered onto that is rose and orange liqueur along with the surprising addition of orange soda for bubble and fruit flavor. Cut fruit is added only at the very end instead of being put in in the beginning and left to soak. There is another recipe, Sangria Penedes that would be perfect after a grill of lamb and beef chops. This has grapefruit  juice tossed in along with Mathilde or any other peach liqueur Cava and one peach , diced and added later for flavor and decoration.

Sangria is a great summer drink. If you're going to have it with a barbecue or paella , make up a pitcher of the real stuff. It's the perfect way to kick back and enjoy a warm summer evening.

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

Spain's Newest Wave of Chefs

The Spanish have been the Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood of cooking for the last ten years. They literally reinvented cooking and time honored dishes with new techniques outre spins. This was due to the vision of one man- Ferran Adria and his restaurant El Bulli. Sadly enough El Bulli is closing however Spain will still remain on the cutting edge of cooking innovation.

This was the subject of the great Julia Moskin's article in today's New York Times Wednesday Dining section. El Bulli has been a culinary mecca for foodies around the world. Their tongues were seduced by his new and inventive techniques that involved emulsions and foams. Euros were poured into the Spanish economy and tourism increased in Adria's town of Barcelona thanks to him. There was the worry that Spain would lose that. Not true however. Adria may be stepping down but there are a number of talented and avant garde chefs willing to carry on Spain's new tradition.

The latest crop, much like Adria , are just as genius. There are young chefs ,like Paco Morales of Bilbao who creates a shimmering jellied tomato water with herbs and fresh shaved vegetables. Another chef Valencia's Quique Dacosta of Bilbao's Guggenheim Museum's restaurant created a dish of just a single oyster draped in a film of edible titanium alloy to reflect the museum's silvery window. There are other chefs such as Carme Ruscalleda and her son, Raul Balam,that create food that's more whimsical edible art than actual food. Better yet they are using Spain's vast bounty of seafood, vegetables and fruits as opposed to using ingredients from out of the country.

Even though one chapter of Spain's new culinary history is closing another will be opening. There is a whole new generation of chefs that will keep this avant garde art form of cooking alive. They have the creativity and talent to keep the Iberian peninsula in forefront of global cooking.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Basque Cuisine

Along the bay of Biscay there lies a region called The Basque . It belongs to France and Spain, mostly to Spain. It's an ancient kingdom, Some think it could even be the lost city of Atlantis. It not onlyhas an ancient language and an ancient cuisine as well.

The region is lucky to have the Bay of Biscay on its northern side and the fertile Spanish Ebro Valley to the south. The area is rich in tomatoes and capsicum peppers and both are used quite liberally in the cuisine. Seafood and grilled meats are also served, roaste d over a charcoal fire. The Basques are also known for a kind of tapas called txikiteo that features highly spiced hams and seafood. Cheese is also very big in the region , usually made from goat's milk . Quince jam is spread over it and it is eaten without bread.


The Basques area is also known for its' deep red cherries. Restaurants as well as homes serve a cherry soup. These are pitted and then poached in a light syrup . Creme fraiche, fresh cream or vanilla ice cream is added to give the soup some body. The Basques also make special cakes as well most loaded with crema or other fruits..

This ancient and mysterious region has some good dishes . They are not full of mystery like the land, and the languag . It's just simple good taste mixed with the local produce..