Jubilee Foods Fit For A Queen

 This is the weekend to celebrate Queen Elizabeth's seventy years ruling England and the Commonwealth. There are celebrations galore across the world. There was even a Jubilee pudding  - a dessert- fit for a queen . You don't have to be a subject to enjoy the party. You can have one where ever you are.

The highlight of the celebration is the Jubilee pudding. This is reminiscent of the Coronation chicken which was created when Her Majesty ascended the throne. The Poulet Reine Elizabeth  was conceived by Constance Spry , an English food writer and flower arranger andRosemary Hume. Both were chefs and principals at the Cordon Bleu Cookery in London. Their dish is cold chicken mixed with curry powder or paste. Apricots and almonds are then added along with creme fraiche. Raisins can be subbed in for the apricots. You can still make this today,serving it on a hearty sour dough or toasted potato rolls.  You can also  serve it on it's on on a few Bibb lettuce leaves. The Jubilee pudding is a but different. It is a lemon  Swiss roll and amaretti trifle, created by Jemma Melvin, a copywriter from Southport ,Merseyside outside of Liverpool. Hers is a bit labor intensive but still perfect for any summer party. It's creating Saint Clement's jelly a combination of orange and lemon  along with baking sponges for the Swiss rolls. You also have to make that British classic lemon curd to fill them. Amaretti biscuits must also be made along with a vanilla pudding for the layering. Ms. Melvin decorated the cake with white chocolate and almond shards along with amaretti biscuits.

Of course you could have what many of the street parties have. Sausage rolls,. those yummy cousins of pigs in a blanket graced many a table today  and will tomorrow too.These are easy to make , using a puff pastry crust filled sausage meat and onions. You can also make vegan ones using Beyond Meat's ones. The beautiful county of Cornwall gives us pasties.It's filling a dough square, not unlike an empanada, with beef , potatoes and onions. These can be made in the fall and winter, using winter veggies like parsnips and turnips. You can also make meatless ones , stuffing them with a good sharp Cheddar and potatoes like that great British shop, Greenwich Village's  Myers of Keswick does. A tea would be a fun way to celebrate Her Majesty's reign. Think lovely finger sandwiches filled with egg and ham salads along with salmon. watercress sandwiches are a must as well. Teas also have a sweet side. Think biscuits dripping with rich clotted cream or whipped cream if you can't get the first. A heaping teaspoon of strawberries are placed over this. Small cupcakes called fairy cakes are also served. These are lighter than their American counterparts and have just a drizzle of icing instead of a mound of buttercream. Different teas, from Earl and Lady Greys to Assam are served. These are usually served hot  but you could have them iced too.

Celebrate Elizabeth's reign with a party full of joy and food. It's the best of Britain for the best queen of Britain. Enjoy and raise a glass to Her Majesty!

A Chef In The wild

You can't find many chefs in the wild. Maybe in a controlled grove or two hunting down truffles but never fully in a forest. Yet that's where chef Iliana Regan could be, somewhere in  northern Michigan. Is this usual?  For this unusual chef yes.

Kin Severson went to this beautifully wild area for an interview with chef Regan for today's New York Times Food section. This is an area located on Michigan's Upper peninsula in Hiawatha National Forest. It's not an area associated with fancy or trendy eateries and innovative chefs. Yet it 's a calming force in the chef's sometimes wild life and a quiet escape from her bad girl past. It's also a place where she can forage, something she's been doing since a child on her parents farm in Merrillville , Indiana, a farm region directly south of Gary Indiana, and Chicago. Both foraging and cooking could have been influenced by her parents, her father a steelworker who loved planting vegetables and her mother, a Gourmet magazine fan who made her own pasta. After a strange incident that involved a tornado, her father teaching to hunt for chanterelles and a child molester uncle Chef Regan  was introduced to cooking.She was saved from the uncle by a family friend while the mushrooms remained unharmed. Her father brought her into the kitchen sat her down on a stool and taught her to cook the chanterelles with red wine and butter. That was the deciding point that she go into cooking. She has no formal training. She worked in small town restaurants. Chef Regan did go to college, studying chemistry at Indiana University , Bloomfield but then found it wasn't for her.

Chef Regan wanted to write. She received a creative writing degree from Columbia College in Chicago. She also worked at restaurants between classes, eventually landing at job at Trio for famed Chicago chef, Grant Achatz. In 2008 she began selling food she made , including her butter infused beet pierogies which won her acclaim from Chicago Magazine. Two years later she started an underground restaurant and also in her apartment. Fans urged her to open a legit one, Elizabeth named for a beloved sister that died during a night in jail. Elizabeth is an expensive eatery with themed menus inspired by such shows as "Stranger Things" and "Game Of Thrones" . The last she pored through all five books , highlighting every food reference. She also opened up and then quickly closed Bunny The Micro Bakery and Kitsune, a mash up of Japanese cuisine and the American Midwest. Now there is Milkweed a B&B Chef Regan operates with her wife , Anna. It's limited lodging with only three rooms however visitors can also rent the tiny Airstream trailer that the couple took around the country in 2018 to cook pop up dinners. There's also a platform tent guests can rent too. Of course all food is foraged and cooked by Chef Regan and she was already cooking wall eyed trout at .

Chef Regan is a new kind of chef, incorporating foraging into her cooking. It's an ancient way of connecting the kitchen and land. The result is interesting and fresh dishes in a delicious and innovative way.

Feasting On Your Feast Day

Onamasticas or name days are kind of like having a second birthday. There are favorite foods and gifts to be had , along with praying or acknowledging the saint you were named after.It's a reflective day but also one filled with treats.

One of the most famous name days is St Patrick's on March 17th, Of course , everyone celebrates that day with beer and corned beef. Yet it should be a special day as well for those named Patrick or Patricia.The second most famous name day is St. Valentine's, February 14th. It's a day for romance and sweethearts but should also be observed for the Valentines and Valentinas out there too.Name days are big throughout  Europe  along with being observed in Latin American countries and Hispanic households here in the States.The Germans equate a name day  with a birthday so there's cake and gifts. Bulgarian children bring chocolates and other treats to school to share their day with classmates. Hungary has similar traditions except men receive wine on their saints days while kids get special treats to dole out to  friends.If you;re in Italy expect a cake to honor your day while in Slovakia enjoy a  big do that can rival a birthday.Spain and Hispanic America used go all out too for onamasticas however now they're more quieter. Not so for the Russians/ They are another nationality that go crazy on name days. There are big parties with lots of food and drink, rivaling birthday parties.

 Name days are not really celebrated here in the States , save for some families who carry on their ancestors' traditions. Today is St. Elizabeth's Day so both my Mom and I celebrate .We just had a nice lunch at The Olive Garden and enjoyed their latest dessert - chocolate lasagna cake. (you read right,It's a chocolate sponge cake layered with cheesecake and a rich fudge layer) Saint's days don't have to be elaborate affairs. The summer onimastica parties can be a small barbecue featuring the honoree's favorite foods. Try filet mignon or a T-bone for a lux treat. For a little more fun cook up some kabobs with chicken  and a variety of veggies. End with a small cake. Again, this doesn't have to be an elaborate iced creation, Think strawberry short cake or a peach or berry cobbler with fresh whipped cream or creme fraiche. The meal could  also end with a chocolate fondue too,dipping the fruits of the season along with marshmallows in melted chocolate. For fall and winter onamasticas. try a chili pie or maybe individual Cornish hens with stuffing.End the meal with a home made apple or pear galette topped with vanilla ice cream. Give the honoree a small ballotin of fine chocolates for a nice gift or a gift certificate at the local coffee shop.

Name days are meant to honor not just the saint but the person named after him or her. Celebrate with a favorite food or dinner out .It's a day of  honoring but also of feasting as well.

A Proper Jubilee Tea

 England and its' commonwealths are having a massive tea party thanks to Queen Elizabeth II celebrating her Diamond Jubilee.Anglophiles here can also celebrate with their own afternoon socials. Teas can have both savory and sweet dishes , all washed down with a variety of teas from around the world.

The most important part of any tea party is the tea. Any strong flavorful one is good. Earl Gray is a nice one.It's strong yet it doesn't have an aftertaste and won't cancel out the flavor of the food. Lady Gray is also a wonderful choice.it has an mild orange taste that goes well with both sandwiches and tea cakes. Since England had her Empire all over the world you can also add Chinese tea or the spicy Indian chai.Chai is basically just black tea steeped with cinnamon cardamon clove and ginger. Tea can also be iced if it's ah hot day  or made into a punch by adding seltzer and fruit. Toss in some sliced oranges, lemons or strawberries for a nice flavor. For a different punch add sliced limes or any other berry such as black or blue.

Teas usually have sandwiches and small cakes. The Windsors have a tendency to like chicken and their teas probably feature poultry. A light yet yummy sandwich is either whole wheat or white toast spread  with a chicken salad.It can be made with either deviled or freshly grilled sliced into pieces.A sprinkle of tarragon gives it a delicate herbal taste A variation can be made with deviled ham with celery seeds. Of course the most loved tea sandwich is watercress. Lightly butter small slices of bread and put three or four watercress leaves on them. Sweets are a nice ending to a tea. Try petit fours or the ever popular macaron. Nix the cupcakes because they're too American. Try smaller cakes that can be cut into wafer thin slices.

England is celebrating sixty years of a remarkable reign by a remarkable woman. Celebrate with them with a proper tea. Bring forth the tea pot along with cakes and sandwiches and cheer Elizabeth!