A Better Grilled Chicken

 There is nothing as tasty or versatile as grilled chicken.It makes for a tasty sandwich on a kaiser roll, with naoy,.It's perfect in Caesar salads.It;s just good on its own, with a few veggies on the side. The problem with it is that it can also get dried out while cooking .Thsi results in tough,stringy meat. Yet there are ways to combat this.

Regular contributor and chef Genevieve KO gives tips and hints in her article in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday section. There is also a recipe that will be perfect for this easy to make classic. It starts with the bird itself. Home chefs could go to chicken farms and get a small bird around four to eight ounces.Commercially s9old breasts are larger which means more meat but much less flavor.It isn;t only the lack of fat that gives them no flavor but also the monotony of texture , the inch or more of uniform threads and a cottony dryness. Still these can be tasty - surprisingly. The ideal option is a chicken that;s been recently slaughtered.Supermarkets wont have this info so look  the latest sell by r use by dates Also looks for terms :fresh" and keep refrigerated which means the meat is not frozen.Also how it;s cut matters .Cut the breast to a third of its' original height by slicing two shutters. Start with a deep slit from the center of the meat Thus can be done on the other side too. Once cut the chicken breast can be smacked into a thin layer Use the palm of the hand for this.The fibers are now not only shortened but also run in different directions which makes for a good chew.

The next step is to marinate quickly.It bolsters flavor but only gives flavor to the outside.A thin breast only needs fifteen to thirty minutes to fully marinate . Ms Ko's recipe has olive oil, lemon juice and garlic. This ensures the meat tastes well and browns perfectly.There are also two cups of mixed ,fresh herbs such as parsley, cilantro basil and mint,The herbs char nicely and bring freshness.Adding kosher salt keeps the meat tender and moist. The grill should be hot. The heat is right when a hand is held three to five inches above the grate .On a gas grill it's should be on the higher side of medium high and with charcoal the lumps should be asked over and glowing red beneath a grey white surface.Remove the meat earlier.If it;s still raw it can go back on the grate to cook more.These breasts should be done in only five minutes and should be opaque without with just the faintest tinge of pink like a faint blush.T o check for doneness, put the meat on a plate cut open so the top and bottom are exposed. It can be placed back on the grill for only a minute if it['s still too raw.

A good chicken breast should be juicy and flavorful. Following these steps will ensure such. It will be a great dinner,full of juicy ,tasty meat.

Crepes With An Asian Twist

 An elegant dish for Mother;s Day is a dish filled with delicate crepes.They're a lovely and lighter alternative to French toast and pancakes and can be filled with everything form meat to cheese. to sweets. They can also be filled with berries and flavored cream for a sweet brunch or dessert.

Regular contributor Genevieve Ko gave a recipe for them in today's New York Times Wednesday Food section. Hers take on an Asian vibe with the addition of pandam cream. Pandam is used by the Laos people, the Hmong people from Southeast Asia.It;s combining heavy cream with the pandan leaves. The plant sort of resembles a leek with it's long verdant leaves but their taste s sweet. Some compare the flavor to almonds vanilla  and coconut ,Pandan extract is also used to  give the cream a verdant color., Ms. Ko';s inspiration for this comes from Diane Moua, owner and chef of Diane's Place in Minneapolis She is a Hmong herself and her eatery reflects that,especially in the lush brunches.Where to get Pandan extract? Target sells it and the spice giant McCormick also offers it .It can be found in any grocery store however on line stores such as Amazon sell a wide variety of extracts and even powdered leaves. Keep in mind the recipe can be varied to include Chantilly cream and even cocoa flavored and rum spiked creams too,

As for the crepes, Ms. Ko assures that there's no need for a fancy crepe pan. Home chefs can use a non stick skillet or a well seasoned cast iron pan. To make the whole process a bit more relaxing set it up like an assembly line. The batter (which should be chilled overnight for best results) should be in a container with a spout or a bowl.Use a ladle or an ice cream scoop to pour onto the pan. Make sure there is oil for the pan to cook the crepes in as well as a rubber spatula and finally a plate for the finished ones.The crepe pan should be heated first and then brushed with either melted butter (for a better taste) or grape seed oil. As soon as the batter is poured in swirl it around into a thin round. Set the skillet back down over the open flame and when the crepe's edges turn brown , nudge them away from the pan with the spatula. I'ts then time to flip them over.It's time to transfer them to the plate when golden spots start to appear.For relatively good crepes use Ms. Ko's recipe of creating a batter of flour milk and egg. Instead of butter use whole coconut cream from the can for a tropical taste that will match the pandam's.

Elegant crepes with an Asian vibe make for a different Mother's Day treat.thy'd be perfect as part of a brunch or simply for dessert with macerated strawberries.It's a lovely way to celebrate Mom.

A Kiss Of Dumplings

 The Lunar New Year brings all sorts of good things, from celebrations to various foods. One is the simple dumpling. It's an easy make but full of complex flavors. A hot dish of them on a cold Frebruary night is such a treat. They are perfect, especially if they're homemade.

Regular contributor Genevieve KO amassed a good deal of dumpling recipes for the second annual Dumpling Week in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday section. The recipes were created by longtime New York Times cooking contributors.The recipes are built upons classic foundations and fu=filled with all sorts of stuffings and spicing. Sue Li gives a more traditional recipe in her pork and garlic chive pot stickers. This is a pan fried dumpling based on the ones that she would buy at the base of the Elephant Mountains in Taipei.It's a simple ground pork, egg  and garlic while the dumplings themselves are a simple blend of all purpose flour and baking powder. Eric Kin gives an untraditional one with a Korean dumpling. The wrapper itself is layered mix of yeast flour and sugar. The beef filling has a kick of jalapeno and large stemmed shiitake mushrooms Gochugaru is added for more zing. The dipping sauce redolent with jalapeno and egg yolks is even spicier. A pinch of sugar tempers it all.

Hetty Liu Mckinnin gives  the dumplings a different spin by making them vegetarian These are eaten throughout  Turkey ,Armenia and Central Asia. These are filled with Herby mushrooms and dipped into both a sharp ,garlicky yogurt and a spiced tomato sauce.There are also onions, love and the eye watering Aleppo peppers added to this.  As for the mushrooms use cremini button or shiitake. These can be mixed together.The yogurt sauce is simply Greek yogurt mixed with two grated garlic cloves while the tomato is a canned crushed tomatoes blended with mint and Aleppo peppers.The Thai's are also known for their dumplings too.China and Thailand have been trading for centuries and recipes also are swapped too. Genevieve Ko gives her interpretation on this with Napa cabbage and shallots and a different filling - chicken  namely all dark meat for more flavor . Basil is a big part of Thai cooking and it;s used here along with Serrano chilies for bite .There is also fish salt and sugar for a savory sweet flavor. The sauce also has sugar mixed with bird's eye Chiles, distilled white vinegar and two garlic cloves.

This cold weather calls for festive and comforting food. Make any of these dumplings for that. They are tasty and perfect for the Lunar New Year.

A Dessert Party Yes

 The holidays give us all sorts of parties. Cocktail, tree trimming, even cookie exchange ones. However one that is always welcome and with out the "stuffedness" of a full dinner is a dessert one. Imagine a gathering of delicious sweets, coffee ro tea and great conversation.It can be had and done in a very easy way.

Regular contributor and baker extraordinary Genevieve Ko wrote about such a party in today s New York Times Wednesday Food section.She gives elegant recipes from such professional bakers as Nicola Lamb and Yossy Aref. These are cakes that look like they belong in a Seventeenth or Eighteenth Century oil painting. These are the cakes, according to Chef KO, that need elegant cake stands to show off their beauty (although decorative wood blocks or even a stick of classic leather bound books can do the trick too). There is a tiramisu pie instead of the usual espresso soaked block. The pie  crust is that crumbled classic Oreos mixed with melted salted butter. The layers are made with marsacapone whipped with separated egg whites and yolks. Around twenty lady fingers are used  along with a cup and a quarter of strongly brewed coffee (think espresso here).The marscapone filling acts as the topping and dark chocolate curls are scattered all over the top of the chilled pie.

The other recipes are the truly elegant pastis Gascon. apple pie's classy French cousin.It's also known as croustade aux pommes. The crust is a buttery flaky phyllo dough , lighter than the traditional recipe. Another Gascon staple Armagnac, one of Frances  oldest brandies is also added in to elevate the apples.It is rich in butter with ten tablespoons of butter added .Granulate sugar  and light brown sugar are also added as well as apple cider vinegar to give it some zing. There is not need for cinnamon here, The Armagnac and butter give it flavor. What apples should be used ? Chef Ko recommends Pink Lady. France is also fused with Japan with yuzu, a citrussy flavored berry in a buttery tart.It's mixed into an eggy curd  that's baked into a super buttery tart crust. Dubai chocolate is becoming so popular.It's no wonder that it's been made into a simple yet flavor rich cake. Youssy Aref creates a tender chocolate cake with a filling  of  the Arabic ingredient kataifi or shredded phylo dough separated and chopped. The top is a rich chocolate ganache that goes perfectly with the cake and pistachio filling.

These would be perfect during a dessert party. They cam also be stand alone desserts at any holiday feast. Make them all.Make one for a festive and sweet holiday.

A Good Treat - Scratch Cake And Frosting

This is definitely the time of year  for sweet treats and one of those is a slice of cake drenched in frosting. What's even infinitely better is cake made from scratch and frosting that's not from a can. YThere is nothing  like an old school cake with an airy mound of sweetness on top.It just takes some savvy to create both perfectly.

Regular contributor and top baker Genevieve Ko knows this and contributes both advice and recipes in today's New York Times Wednesday Food section.After several years of create the perfect slice she offers her knowledge to both expert and novice bakers alike.Ome of the most important gadgets a home baker should have is a good scale. Don't use a liquid measuring cup for measuring dry ingredients like flour or baking powder. Get a cheap digital kitchen scale; then use a spoon or scraper to push the dry ingredients into a cup. Using a measuring cup for liquids could throw off a recipe. Too much cocoa in a recipe such as her chocolate peanut butter ones will make for a crumbly crumb and a surprisingly bitter flavor. Another must is mix the batter differently Ms. Ko follows Rose Levy Beranbaum ,a uthor of the famed "The Cake Bible"in which reverse creaming is used ,This is when room temperature butter is mixed with the dry ingredients. This gives the butter's fat the chance to coat some of the flours proteins and as a result stop tough gluten from forming.After the flour is coated and the butter is evenly dispersed then add the liquid ingredients. This results in a much more tender crumb.(It also makes for easier slicing too).

One of the most important aspect s for home bakers is knowing their ovens Ms. Ko recommends thinking about your oven's capacity How long does it take to preheat? Thirty minutes instead of the usual fifteen.Does it run hot or cold?Is there a significant temperature drop when the door is opened? Is it smaller than average like an apartment oveN? These tend to brown baked goods quicker than larger ovens.Ovens may have to be set twenty-five degrees higher or lower.One way to find out is to set white bread slices in different spots and see how they brown. Make a note of the results Another must do is use bake times as guidelines. Set the timer for a little before the lowest time marker and take a look without opening the oven.Test for doneness before it's too far gone. The perfect bake is a cake that has a light golden brown color. Before baking  understand a cake's anatomy along with having the right pans. As for the cakes themselves.Ms.Kp give three yummy recipes, the classic confetti cake with cream cheese frosting. chocolate peanut butter cupcakes and yellow sheet cake with chocolate cream cheese frosting. Tint the frosting orange for a Halloween party . Save these recipes for Christmas dessert too instead of cookies.

Nothing beats the perfect scratch cake with a scratch frosting. The result is a deliciously light bite full of flavor. This is the perfect Halloween treat.

Coziness with Oats

 There is something about an airy dish that homey and satisfying. Maybe ti;s because of the grain being the most basic but also the most everyday.It's also lent itself to being good as an ingredientfor baked goods and hearty breakfasts.

Regular author and top baker Genevieve Ko wrote about it and gave two recipes in today;s New York Times Food section As she puts it oats can work miracles. Cooked otameal has a comforting and relaxing scent like clean fresh hay.There's also a natural sweetness to them that regular flour doesn;t have.They add to everything, from creating sweet crunchy toppings to extra chewy cookies like oatmeal raisin and chocolate chip oatmeal cookies. Chef Ko gives two recipes with them - honey oat pancakes and oatmeal chocolate chocolate chip muffins. Both are great ways to start a chilly Spring morning. There are so many different typrs of oats to use. What should home chefs use? She recommends quick cooking and instant oats are ideal for the pancakes because they;re small and flat, perfect for cooking. They;ve been finely chopped and steamed before packaging . They;re already made into flakes. Keep in mind that instant oats are going to be thinner than the quick cooking kind. They'll give the finished product s a chewier texture according to Sarina Shatseen , a culinary content specialist at the flour company Bob's Red Mill.

The recipes are perfect for breakfasts(or even for a Sunday lunch). The honey oat pancakes have the oatmeals soaked in buttermilk along with flax, honey and salt for a good ten minute. The longer the mixture sits the creamier and tender the pancakes. Use this time to make eggs and bacon . After the ten minutes add two tablespoons of canola or any flavorless oil. Baking soda and flour are then mixed in . They should be cooked in butter for a richer flavor.. Serve hot with more honey and definitely more butter for the ultimate treat.The oatmeal chocolate chip muffins can be perfect for breakfast or just a mid afternoon snack with coffee or tea. Use quick cooking oats for these along with flour and brown sugar. Cardomon is also added, giving the crumbs a lovely flavor. There is also eggs, butter and whole milk to give the muffins body. After the wet and dry ingredients are mixed the chips are gently added in. They're baked at 400 degrees Farenhit for twenty minutes. Use cupcake papers and bake in a muffin tin.

Oatmeal cna be a great addition to anything for breakfast or sweet. Try it in these pancakes or muffins. They;re a healthy and tasty addition to any recipe,

Welcoming Dumplings

 The Year of The Snake has arrived!It's time to celebrate with all sorts of goodies to ring in the  Lunar New Year! Think dumplings both sweet and savory to feast on.

REgular contributor Genevieve KO writes and gives all sorts of variations in today's Wednesday's New York Times Food section. For some Asians these gems full of flavor and happiness represent wealth and prosperity for the year ahead. Five contributors have given their best recipes. Keep in mind that these recipes also work for any time for the year. They're great for parties and even barbecues but they could also be a fun weekend meals in with family.Eric Kin gives his for the Korean New Year(all Asian countries celebrate at the same time) Seolail ones that are made with wonton wrappers.It is loaded with beloved Korean flavors like kimchi and gochugaru.Fish or soy sauce can be added for brininess and flavor. Vegetarians will love the CHinese Zhongshan Gok Jai .They are also called crystal dumplings because you can see through the skins the dough is a combination of wheat tapioca and potato starches instead of flour, hence the transparency. The fillings has two kinds of  mushrooms, shiitake and dried wood earm, alongside with carrots celery and water chestnuts. Tofu give its more solidity and weight.

For a different taste try Sue Li's chili oil wontons. These are highly flavorful, being packed with ground chicken or pork along with shrimp. Shaozing wine or sherry can be added for more flavor. The sauce here is the most important It;s made with garlic, scallions and red pepper mixed in vegetable oil. Bay leaf is added. The dumplings should be served with peanuts, peppercorns and scallions.Kay Chun gives her recipe for beef wontons  with zucchini and buchu, a highly flavorful allium. Tofu and garlic are also included for more weight and taste. The dipping sauce is unusual in the sense that it uses pine nuts which are mostly used in Southern European baking along with soy sauce, white sugar and white vinegar. Dumplings aren't usually sweet however Ms KO, a renown baker gives her spin.Her filling is a kind of ganache , made with a bittersweet or semi sweet chocolate bar or dark chocolate chips and quarter of a cup of condensed milk. Sesame oil is added for silkiness along with salt. The wrappers is more doughy than the average dumpling. Ms Ko uses glutenous rice flour and sesame oil. It has to be kneaded and rolled like bread dough and then proofed.It's then steam over water.

It's the New Year. Celebrate with these savory and sweet treats. They're perfect for ringing in the Year of The Snale!

Protest With Eggs

 You would think that eggs are coming from the golden goose given their high price these days. They are one of the most expensive food items out right now. They're are ways to work around them. It's a simple as using basic sub ins.

Regular contributor and pro baker Genevieve Ko wrote about this in today's New York Times Wednesday Food section. For decades moms have been using egg substitutes because their kids have egg allergies. Baking allows for these.Cooking is trickier. Home chefs (including myself) have used JUst Egg which does work in both cooking and baking.It is expensive at around $5.31 for a 16 ounce bottle and it has to be used within a two day time frame. It'/s good for making omelets and frittatas.  A=However with baking you can vary the ingredients. Egg is used for binding so a good binder is all that's needed. Eggs also moisten dishes with their water content and make the crumb of any baked good richer with their fatty yolks . Whites are good for creating airy meringues along with lifting baked goods. Whites also add a fluffiness to savory dishes and make for a lighter ,almost poofy omelet and cheese souffles.

What can be used for a egg substitute? Ms Ko recommends flax gel. Again it'sa good binder and can add structure ,moisture and fat. Most baking recipes can use it such as cookies, muffins, cupcakes and yeast rolls to name a few.It does have a subtle nutty taste but this works with other ingredients and is a good binder. Professor Genevieve Meli of the Culinary Institute of America who teaches pastry arts recommends grinding flax seeds to produce it.The down side is that it can go rancid quickly. Another sub in and a favorite of vegan home bakers is aqua faba, the chickpea fluid. It adds moisture to such treats as brownies but also makes excellent meringues.Unlike egg whites it will not help in creating a tall cake.One mom favorite is banana or applesauce.It binds adds moisture and does provide some structure.Use it for yeast rolls and even pancakes to  get the same texture as ones made with egg. Mashed sweet and regular potatoes can be used  potatoes along with pumpkin puree can be used for savory dishes such as meat loaf and breading meats

Yes using eggs are a home chef's luxury. Yet there are sub ins to help. Use them for budget baking.

Grab That Summer Produce

 As everyone is ordering the first of the season pumpkin spice lattes and making autumn wish boards, there's still summer bounty to enjoy. Take advantage of any of the harvests right now. They could c9ome from your local farmer;s market or just the back yard. Forget thoughts of chilly breezes and sweather eather.Bask in these wamr summer days and enjoy delicious fruits and vegrables. There's even a buttery cake rich with peaches for the perfect summertime dessert.

Regular contributor and chef Genevieve Ko wrote about this and her fellow New York Times Wednesday  Food section contributors give very good recipes in today's  section.. Keep in mind she warns that end of season harvest can need a boost.Use creamy spreads and sauces to bring out their sweet, earthy flavors. Butter should factor greatly in some of  the recipes as well. The recipes are good on their own or as a side to grilled chicken or steak. They can even grace a vegetable main course.The recipes use zucchini, peaches ,corn  and tomatoes. Any of these are perfect for a Labor Day barbecue or just a dinner eaten al fresco. start the meal with creamy labneh This is made with fresh cherry tomatoes  and garlic that are first cooked on a stove top and then roasted in a 325 degree Farenheit oven. They top an even layer of labneh .You can use this for dressings and vegetables but it's great with freshly made pita crisps. Another perfect starter is prosciutto and melon salad. Regular contributor Ali Slagle created this tasty starter.It also has mozzarella and arugula. Fresh picked basil flavors it and gives it a nice vegetal flavor.

As for the main course try  zucchini and peach salad with a creamy line dressing it seems like an odd pairing but it works according to its' creator Ham El-Wayly. It;s taking sliced zucchini and peaches and then tossing them in salt. Let them sit ten minutes to soften. Add lime zest and freshly squeezed line juice .Let sit for ten minutes. Add sour cream and dill until everything is mixed with the lime salt. Add a drizzle of olive oil and flaky salt to flavor.late summer corn is so delicious this year and even more so with a tangy butter sauce.It's mixing Jerrelle's Gray 's recipe of  butter, goat cheese  honey harissa paste and limes.This is brushed on the grilled ears. Squeeze the limes over the corn and then enjoy.To end the meal try Samantha Severante's .THis is a rich cake with a cup and three quarters butter in it along with two large eggs. A cup of whole milk yogurt gives it a dense crumb. Two peaches  peaches are sliced and folded into the batter. Two more peaches are sliced and out on top. Bake for fifty-five to sixty-five minutes. It's good on it's own. but you could add ice cream to it.

It's summer yet. Have the harvest of the season in tasty dishes and cakes. Enjoy their flavor  full of warm weather goodness.

Just For Me

 Cooking for yourself can be blissful. There's no plethora of ingredients to chop dice or mince. There's only one person to satisfy - and best of all you can make whatever you like whenever you like.

Regular contributor Genvieve Ko wrote about this joy of cooking for self in yesterday's New York Times Food section.There's something soothing about being caught in the moment of making the perfect egg or sandwich. It's you alone in the  kitchen. Chef Ko offers tips to make cooking for one easy but delicious. First of all figure out what you like which should be easy.If you examine what you truly want , then it's less tempting to order in. The second question should be: whatever you make should be worth the time, energy and dollars.Even if you;re craving fries or something high end and fancy , then eat out. The recipes that make the most sense are the streamlined ones even if they're steak or scallops.For simple daily sustenance ask yourself if it;s worth having oatmeal for breakfast seven days a week or simple quesadillas once a week??C an you make stuffed mushrooms maybe twice every week without getting sick of them?It's also important to stock up when you can. Build a shopping list of your basics and choose the right quantity. Remember that even food on the verge of going bad can still be used  such as stir frying wilted lettuce.

Chef Ko offers three easy recipes that can easily be made and  two can be eaten the next night if you're not that hungry. One is curry roasted half chicken and peppers This is a sheet pan dinner in which half a chicken is rubbed with a homemade curry oil. Chopped peppers and onion are also tossed in it . Everything is spread over a parchment lined pan and roasted for about thirty-five minutes in a 400 degree Farenheit oven. You could squeeze lemon juice over it.Another is perfect for a Sunday brunch for one. It's basically using a biscuit cutter to make a hole in t the middle of a slice of challah or brioche and then plopping the egg into it.  Put the slice of cheddar n the other slice of whole  bread , Fry both in butter and then use them to sandwich bacon ro Taylor ham.There's also a tzatziki tuna salad perfect for a light lunch or dinner. THis is an easy make. Tzatziki can be made using Greek yogurt along with fresh dill, lemon juice and a minced garlic clove. Then it;s adding tuna in oil with yellow mustard and mix well. Serve on any kind of lettuce.

It's easy to cook for one.know what you like and cook with it.Every meal will be satisfying and delicious.

The Resiliant Carla Hall

Celebrity chefs come anf go. Carla Hall isnlt one of them. She;s here in a big way, promoting and highlighting Southern cooking> With it she brings fun into cooking classic Southern recipes.

Regular  contributor Kim Severson wrote about Ms Hall in  today's New Yorm Times Wednesday Food section. Ms. Hall came to prominence on the short lived The Chew which also starred Mario Batali, Michael Symon and Daphne Oz. However she was also a contestant on the 2008 season of Top Chef where she was known as "Kooky Carla".  She was originally from Nashville although Washington DC is now her home.Her earliest days pointed her into theater where she could dance and move her long limbs. She followed her sister to Howard University and wound up as the onlyAfrocan american in a white acocunting firm in Tampa. She went into modeling after doing such in the Tampa Bay area. Being in Paris with fellow Black models, they made their family recipes at Sunday suppers. This gave her an epiphany . She came back to the States and enrolled in L'Academie de Cuisine in Bethesda Maryland. She later cooked in washing hotel restiarants and began her own catering company. her husband  Matthew Lyons,a D.C. lawyer was watching Top Chef when he relaized his bubbly wife would be ao good match on the show . The rest is history.

Ms. Hall is now everywhere. Her new show Chasing Flavor" will be seen.It's done in the same vein as Anthony Bourdain's  travel influenced shows, The show which has aired this month on Max has Ms Hall travelling to such diverse countries as Ghana, Turkey and Italy. Dishes will be parsed and interpreted, as she explores their histories and their impact on American cuisine. Ms. Hall also has a  great line of kitchen ware and foodstuffs on QVC. Home chefs can buy everything from sausage to cornebread and cake mixes to name a few. There is also her recipe book ,Carla Hall's Soul Food :Celebration and Everyday that she cowrote with another Food Section contributor Genevieve Ko. She even made Dorito croquettes for the Super Bowl's Taste of the NFL event. There will be a onewoman show pllanned for Broadway too. There is also a recipe included for her Granny's five flavor pound cake.It's a rich old fashioned scratch cake with a pound of everything. The f ive flavors come from the vanilla, rum coconut;  lemon and almond extracts. It's the perfect cake for the Spring holidays.

Carla Hall is everywhere these days. watch her on Max for interesting trips. Buy her products to enhance the kitchen. Try her recipes. They are as vibrant and interesting  as she is.

A Cinnamon Roll With Zest

 Nothing beats a home made cinnamon bun.There's something soothing about sinking your teeth into yeast y roll, cinnamon and a big dollop of cream cheese icing. Yet it can be made more delicious with the  addtion of orange. This takes  those chewy pillows to a whole new level.

Baker extraordinaire and regular contributor Gebevieve Ko gave a recipe for a new kind of cinnamon bun in Wednesday's New York TImes Food section.Hers is different in many ways.it doesn't require the usual yeast to make the dough rise.There is baking powder to give them an instant puffy  lift along with cream cheese.The cream cheese is not just for the icing.It,  along with butter and milk, gives the dough  a moist tenderness. Milk also helps the dough from drying out.This in itself is not  new recipe.On the website The Food Historian, Sarah Wassberg Johnson wrtes that the recipe has been  around since 1916.  The one big change which will be game changer is the addition of orange zest in the brown sugar and fresh orange juice in the icing. The last cuts that super sweetness along with giving the icing that lovely apricot sunset hue.The zest infused brown sugar cna also be used in the dough to enrich the citrussy flavor.Ms Ko's inspiration was from the now defunct Bogues Restaurant in Birmingham ,Alabama where  their main baker Ella Irby made them for a good chunk of the eatery's eighty-four yeears.

What kind of orange should be used? Ms. Ko dosesn't specify but many baking sites definitely recommend the navel ones. One can get you through this recipe. Making the orange sugar is easy.It's just zesting it over brown sugar.Gently rub the zest into the  sugar because the oil from the zest also soaks into it. Two tablespoons of it will be used for the dough while the rest goes for the filling. The dough is a mix of the dry ingredients first, flour baking powder and salt. The butter and the cream are smashed and rubbed into the flour with your fingers until fully incorporated. They should resemble crumbs. Add the milk at once and gently stir in with a fork. The dough should be frozen as you either butter a nine inch cake pan or iron skillet. The filling is easy Mix the cinnamon and cardamon into the orange sugar and heavily sprinkled onto the rolled out doughThe dough should be sticky when rolled out. It's then  cut into buns with a serrated knife. Bake ar 375 degrees Farenheit for twenty five to thirty minutes. You can make this glaze while the rolls bake.It's a mix of confectioner's sugar , cream cheese , orange zest and fresh orange juice. Let the buns cools off for five minutes then pour  the glaze over them.

A cold winter's day requires a cinnamon bun. Add some sunshine and a whiff of sunnier climes by  adding in some orange zest and juice into the recipe. It makes for a tasty spin on a delicious classic.

The Nostalgia Of Wontons

 The Year of the Rabbit is upon us and with it comes traditional centuriess old recipes. One is wontons, They're delicous in soup, heavenly when fried. One of their best aspects is that they can be made at home - anytime.

Regular contributor and deputy editor Genvieve Ko wrote about this classic in yesterday's New YorkTimes Food section.The Lunar New Year starts ths Sunday and the perfect dish according to her is wontons. They're a comfort food that reminds immigrants of home and second generation Chinese Americans a tie to their heritage. Wontons have been eaten since ancient times according to Grace Young, an award winning cookbook author and food historian. They symbolize wealth because of their resemblance to gold ingots.It's the same reason dumplings are also served during the holiday. Keep in mind that wontons are dumplings but not all dumplings are wontons. They're also not exclusively Cantonese. There are thicker skinned ones in northern China and of course spicy ones from Szechuan in the southwest. The Hong Kong style that Ms KO grew up with has silky wrappers and is always stuffed with shrimp. There is also a dessert with this. Usually the Canonese serve oragnes becasue their Cantonese name is a homophone for gold. However Ms. Ko includes  a shortbread cookie recipe baked with the blackened sesame seeds found in such holiday candies and sweets like tang yuan,

Home chefs may be daunted making wontons.Making them is  really no different than making pasta. It's almost the same mix of flour, eggs and warm water along with salt. There is cornstarch for dusting.  It's the same well method  too, meaning a well is made in a mound of flour and the eggs are poured into it. The dough will be shaggy and it needs to be kneaded for eight to ten minutes until it's not sticky anymore. Divide the dough in two and then pat into a rectangle. Loosely wrap each section of dough in  Saran wrap and let each sit for an hour. Doing this will help the dough relax and easier to roll out. You can use a pasta roller or a rolling into create sheets. You'll need a ruler , a pizza cutter or a sharp knife to cut the dough into twenty-eight to thirty three inch squares. The filling is a tasty blend of shrimp, pork and scallions.It's flavored with ginger, oyster  sauce , soy sauce and sesame oil. Sugar salt and pepper are mixed in for a contrast of salty and sweet and there's the addition of Shaoxing wine or dry sherry. The wontons' edges are sealed with water when they're deep fried or cooked insoup. The cookies are an easy shortbread ,sprinkled with white  sesame seeds. This is a perfect dessert served with oranges.

What better way to start the New Year with wonton and blackened sesame shortbread cookies. Enjoy both ushering in the Year of The Rabbit. They're a fun way to celebrate.

More Thanksgiving ideas

 Don't be nervous about next week. Yes it's the biggest cooking day of the year but it doesn't haven't tobe the most worrisome. Thanks to the New York Times Thanksgiving will be a dream to plan.

Yesterday's Food section had a cornucopia of recipes and ideas. There was a huge article on veggie dishes that was explored yesterday.Now it's time for the meat and traditional ones.One article that stands out is one  regular contributor Genevieve Ko wrote about the famed Ina Gartner. Ms. Gartner gave recipes that feature store bought ingredients, Hers is an easy cook and bake, in the spirit of her latest and thirteenth (!) cookbook  "Go To Dinners" A Barefoot Contessa Cookbook" (Clarkson Potter Publishing 2022) Her recipes include Parmesan Mashed Potatoees that uses Bob Evans already made mashed spuds and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Ocean Spray cranberry sauce is the base of her apple spiked cranberry sauce while Pepperidge Farm herbed croutons and Harveys; Bristol Cream are part of her tasty Murshroom and Gruyere bread pudding. Yes there is a dessert , namely pie, a lush bourbon chocolate pecan one. her crust is a store bought one  suc as Wholly Wholesome. The chocolate is not gourmet. It's Nestles semisweet chocolate chips. The only recipe without any prepared ingredients is her turkey and gravy one which is a flavorful traditioanl one spiked with lemon,

Melissa Clark also contributes . Hers is non -pie desserts. One of the easiest is her riff on the great Marian Burros plum torte.However she's used pears instead but maintained the cardamon along with the grated lemon or orange zest.The pears are first poached with sugar and red wine., They're then sliced  and added to a buttery cake batter. Another great end would be her pumpkin butterscotch custard with spiced whipped cream. It;s traditional homemade goodness with the addition of a cup of pumpkin puree for color and a holiday taste. The rest is a lush mix of heavy cream, whole milk and butter. There is also five large eggs and four yolks for a creamy thickness.  Ms. Clark adds a tiny quarter teaspoon of pumpkin spice and two teaspoons vanilla or bourbon. The topping has more punpkin spice added to sugar and heavy cream. There are pies - whoopie ones.She used her two bite cinnamon scented ones that hold a cream cheese icing filling. This continues in the Thanksgiving vein with the addtion of homemade cranberry sauce for a swirl of color.

Thanksgiving will be a breeze with these recipes. They're tasty , easy and fun. These recipes will add to any table whether for dinner and dessert.

A Summer Taco Spread

 Everyone loves a good taco. Imagine a taco party then instead of a barbecue. Guests can have fun creating their own. It just starts with a few basics nd goes from there.

Genevieve Ko wrote about this along with giving  the basics in yesterday's New York Times Food section, Her inspiration was Alejandra Graf who threw a taco party for her son's soccer team. Thye loved it thanks to the variety and the joy of customizing their tacos. This also gives the host time to mingle while guests are creating their own meals. There should be big flavors, spicy , fresh and savory . Chef Ko also looks to Esteban Castillo author of the cookbook Chicano Eats  and the upcoming Chicano Bakes  aand his family's experiences. The family would throw carne asada on the grill but to also vary the taco fillings there would be Cornish game hens, chicken, chorizos , cebollitas or scallions and white onions. Theere would be tables groaning with guacamole, arroz rojo, red rice, pico de gallo and salsa molacito  along with frijoles charros and tortillas that his aunt made. It also pays to get everyone involved too. There should be extra handsin the kitchen to help witht eh chopping and prep.Prepare before time.Some dishes like chicken tinga, chicken with adobo sauce  and lamb birria, a kind of spicy lamb braise takes days to creare as do frijoles de olla.

Another important aspect is the tortilla.Make sure they're warmed before serving You could do what Ms Graf did, heating them on a comal or griddle (even a crepe plate works), They 're then wrapped in a warm towel to retain their tenderness.For a really big party CHef Ko suggests buying a tortiellero a large basket that retains their warmth. (you can buy this on Amazon or at a Mexican grocery).  Lightly char them as Mr. Castillo does or make your own,  She includes a carne asada recipe that has a spicy steak sauce and red rice.  The steak seasoning is a fiery one  full of  dried chilis and  spices such as cumin and  coriander. Black pepper gives it extra kick. There is also a marinade that features  orange and limes juices along with Worcester sauce. The red rice has tomato sauce and a host of spices too.Make sure there are plenty of drinks. You could have buckets of iced Corona  but agua fresca is  also good. Have large pitchers of this refreshing Mexican drink on the table. You can create them in a variety of such flavors as cucumber and watermelon. Make sure there's good music too for a relaxing time too.

A fun summer party involves tacos with fresh ingredients. Throw one that's full of delicious fillings followed by tasty drinks. There's nothing like a night full of good Mexican party food.

Hot Days Cool Salads

 These days are unbearable to live in  let alone cook in. yet there's still a need to make a decent and filling meal. What to do? Turn to salads. they're quick, easy and coolly delicious.

Cathy Lo, a recent addition to The New York Times Food section created an excellent salad guide for today's section. She enlisted fellow food writers, Melissa Clark , David Tanis,Eric Kim , Ali Slagle , Genevieve Ko and Yewande Komolafe to contribute tasty and blissfully cold recipes to combat this hellish time. The twenty  salads are categorized into leafy, sturdy, pasta grain and bean based along with sweet and savory fruit.Any  would be perfect as a main meal or as a side to either grilled or air fried main courses. Those who appreciate a good green salad should look into making Ali Slagle's arugula salad with just a squeeze of lemon and a shave of Parmesan cheese.ERic KIm gives his crunchy greens with carrot ginger dressing. Fresh ginger gives it bite as it's drizzled over Romaine lettuce.A heartier dish is Yewande Komolafe's chicken with herb salad and nuoc cham. Shredded roasted chicken is mixed with shredded cabbage , cucumber and bell pepper and dresed with a sweet savory lime based vinaigrette.If you want a sturdier salad then think a shrimp salad with chopped red onions and a lemony mayo,. You could also make Genevieve Ko's  tofu and green bean salad with peanut dressing. made with hoisin sauce and peanut butter.

Pasta beans and grains add depth and heft to any salad. A blistering day could end with Melissa Clark's  pasta salad that has the classic ingredients of mozzarella and fresh sliced tomatoes. Cucumber and salami ribbons are also added to make it heartier. Want a more Middle Eastern vibe? Then try Dave Tanis rice salad that laced with almonds, pistacchios and currents, The dressing is a mix of tahini and lemon juice and zest.Add classic Middle Eastern herbs like parsley and mint Of course there is three bean salad.  Celery is also added for crunch ad the dressing has the spiky taste of Dijon mustard.  There is also Yewande Komolafe's millet salad along with Erik Kim's  chickpea one, the last enhanced with seaweed and mayo. It's summer and that means a good fruit salad to be served anytime from breakfast to dessert. Ali Slagle's stone fruit Caprese fits into all these . Cut up any stone fruit , from nectarines to cherries and marinate in  a mix of lemon juice, flaky sea  salt and sugar Drizzle olive oil over this when it's time to serve and spike with freshly ground pepper. There's also mango slaw and the classic watermelon and feta mix. You could also try Eric Kim's tropical taste pleaser of bananas, pineapple and mango Just season with lemon and sea salt.

Beat this hellish heat with a good salad. Try any of these recipes for a cool meal, side or even dessert.  It's a nice way to abide these wildly high temps.

A Light Summer Dessert

 One of the yummiest and lightest desserts is chocolate mousse>it's like a puff of sweet air in the mouth>it's silky and airy, perfect for summer. its a great end to any summer meal.

Food writer and regular contributor Genevieve Ko wrote about this classically French dessert in Wednesday's New York Times Food section.Mousse is the perfect end to any hot weather meal.It's light , not dense like cakes and cupcakes, and doesn't heave an aftertaste like ice cream does. She looks to French home chefs for the recipe where it's treated the same way American home chefs treat their chocolate chip cookie recipe. The recipe followed is usually on the back of cheap candy bars.Every family has one. It's not the elegant dessert we have elevated it to. Order mousse in a restaurant and it comes in a martini glass, , topped with whipped cream, chocolate curls and a sprig of mint. In France it's served like any family dessert in a big bowl where people can scoop out as much as they like.It's also not perfect, The French sometimes leaves pockets of  unblended egg white that can be easily mixed in.

Ms. Ko received the recipe from her Gallic friend , Cecile. Hers has foamy egg yolks and extra airy egg whites. The eggs should be completely separated in two bowls so not to have yellows in the whites and vice versa.Mousses should have richness , some add butter but this will make the texture too dense. Ms. Ko advises stick with a heavy cream. Of course chocolate is a big ingredient. Use a dark chocolate meant for eating or confections and not baker's chocolate. The last has a higher proportion of cacao solids which will make for a dense and possibly gritty mousse. Use a bar with a seventy to seventy-four percentage cacao however you can use the one you love to eat. It'll make for a tastier flavor.Cook the chocolate and cream together and then add the egg yolks afterwards one yolk at a time. The whites should have been whipped in a standing mixer . Sugar is added to them to create a meringue. Fold the two mixtures together using smart gentle folding.Fold the whites over the chocolate and don;t over do it. It will give you a light texture. Run the bowl clockwise for even folding and mixing.

A good summer dessert should be airy and light like this mousse. Try it for a lovely , fluffy bite. It's the perfect end to any not weather meal.

The Perfect Ham And Eggs.

 The main course to a Easter meal should be the perfect ham. it should be a bright to smoky pink on the inside side and have a deliciously crusty and flavorful glazed exterior. What should accompany it? Eggs of course  but with a Chinese twist.

Regular contributor , food writer and recipe developer Genevieve Ko wrote about these usually breakfast staples in today's New York Times Food section. She gives a recipe for honey ham, taken from her own experience with cooking city hams or as we know them just hams. These are injected with water which can dry out in the oven. The best way to cook and serve them  is to eat them without cooking and at room temperature.according to Brian Heffern, operations manager at the Honey Baked Map Company. This may freak out more than a few home chefs, but keep in mind the meat is already cured, so there's no worry. You could do what ms KO recommends. Cook it on the stove first for thirty to forty minutes and then transfer it to a 450 degree Farenheit oven for the last ten or fifteen minutes.The inspiration cam from her working with the great  Alsacian chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and the German chef Gabriel Kreuther. She helped with editing their respective cookbooks. Her ham has the German influence thanks to first a bath of Reisling wine mixed with juniper berries,peppercorns and honey. An onion is added which will serve as a rack for the ham to sit upon. When it's ready for the oven, it;s rubbed with a mix of brown sugar, Dijon mustard and more honey.

The second recipe comes from Ms. Ko's childhood. It's the tea eggs  that all her "aunties" brought to her childhood church every Easter Sunday.  This is a snack but  it's also a great way of having those hard boiled eggs. They're soaked in a brew of black, tea, soy sauce and ginger. There is also the addition of star anise and Szechuan peppercorns. Use either oolong or jasmine tea loose or in tea bags.Plain eggs are cracked in the boiling process and when peeled, reveal intricate marbled patterns. If you're using your dyed eggs, then peel off the colored shell.Fully peeled eggs will have a richer, more intense flavor  while being dyed a deep brown  Keep in mind that raw eggs should be room temperature before boiling. Cold shells will instantly crack once they hit the hot water and that can create a mess. Tap them lightly with the back of a spoon to create hairline fractures. The tea will seep in and give them that pretty marbled effect. Cook never before cooked ones for six minutes for a jammy yolks  seven minutes for just set ones and eight to ten minutes for hard crumbly ones. After they're cooked, drain the hot water, add cold water from the tap until they're completely cool. The already boiled ones can just be marinated in the heated sauce and then put into containers. These  go into the fridge where they can be stored for up to a week.

Ham and eggs are always a great combination. Yet imagine the ham as a crispy, tender Easter one and the eggs as Chinese tea eggs. It's a nice way of celebrating Easter.

In Praise Of Chocolate Chips

  Chocolate chips rule as much as baking snobs hate to admit it. These tiny little morsels shouldn't be discounted. Their tininess can add a big impact and flavor to any dessert recipe.

Regular contributor Genevieve Ko knows this and wrote about the tasty nibbles in yesterday's New York Times Food section.It's partly for nostalgia's sake. How many of us always snuck a few while making homemade Toll House cookies? Yet there are other reasons too, namely composition. The bars that some chefs use is high in cocoa butter which makes it more fluid when melted. It's perfect for coating bonbons, look at that shiny , snappy shells coating truffles and caramel. However what works for candy making doesn't necessarily work for baking according to Jacques Dahan, president of the chocolate company Michel Cluizel USA. Bakers want less cocoa butter for baking chocolate.Cocoa butter may give the recipe more  fat but so does dairy add ins like butter and milk. It is also expensive which is why the mass produced chocolate morsels have less of it. They have more cacao solids instead. These also yield more flavor too. Also you need a stronger flavor when mixing the chips with other ingredients like you'd find in a brownie recipe. In a flourless chocolate cake they shine through the creaminess of the butter and the richness of the eggs. They also help bind the other ingredients together in absence of flour.

Another plus to using chocolate chips is that they hold their shape in a hot oven. They give structure and height to chunky cookies and banana bread. There's no worry of them melting and creating gullies in the treat's surface. It was Ruth Wakefield, a Massachusetts housewife who first created the chips in the 1930's and the cookies named after the famed Toll House Inn. She sold the idea to Nestle for only a dollar and since then other companies have copied idea. To be honest there really isn't  the best. They all taste good, They all bake well.Donald Wressell, an executive chef at Guittard Chocolate Company suggests sampling a wide range first.This is what pastry chef  Jacqueline Eng and owner of New York's Partybus Bakery, She feels like she is a bread baker first so she experiments with the sweet ingredients. She feels that approaching chocolate can be intimidating because you can deep dive into sourcing beans from other counties. The best way is to just taste them and decide what works. she finally decided on Callebaut 54 percent cacao pellets. However during the pandemic she used chocolate chips from her local grocery and still received compliments on her cookies. 

Chocolate chips rule. They are perfect for baking yummy cookies or tasty banana bread. It doesn't matter what brand is used, they deliver a great taste and texture.

Your Must Have Thanksgiving Issue Part One

 Thanksgiving is almost two weeks away and it's going to be a big one. It's the first major holiday where we can sit down with family and friends after being separated for so long. The meal has to be spectacular  with fantastic recipes.

This is where today's New York Times Food section comes in It is an unofficial guide to Thanksgiving cooking and baking. It's definitely an inspiration with different spins on classic dishes and new recipes that every home chef has to try.Turkey and gravy lovers will enjoy trying Padma Lakshmi's spin on the holiday bird with a boozy gravy spiked with Calvados,. Regular contributor and great food developer herself interviewed Ms. Laksmi who is more known for being a judge on Top Chef and her eye opening travel and food show "Taste The Nation" streaming on Hulu. Yet it's her turkey recipe that will make an impact on mant Thanksgiving table. She treats the turkey as if it were a very large chicken.It's brined first  in a spicy blend of buttermilk for tenderizing and cayenne pepper for zing and heat. The turkey itself is stuffed with lemon , ginger thyme and garlic for a truly flavorful bite. It's then drizzled and rubbed with olive oil before being  slow roasted in a pan of water. The gravy is a blend of the Calvados with the combined juices of  mashed Fuji and Granny Smith apples, along with red and yellow onions and fennel. The juices are whisked into to a roux of butter and flour and then the Calvados is stirred in.

You could easily add some of the dishes from Liberia;s Thanksgiving day celebrated on the first Thursday of the month.It wasn't modeled on the American holiday and is fraught with a lot of history, festivities and food.Another weekly contributor to the New York Tines Food section, Priya Krishna interviewed Liberian-American chefs who bring their spin and traditional recipes to the American Thanksgiving table. Theirs is different. The day is spent with family , playing kickball and getting dressed up. The ingredients such as cassava and sweet potatoes. There is no turkey in Liberia. There is chicken however and Ms. Krishna gives a recipe for Liberian chicken gravy. This is chicken thighs first rubbed with a fiery mix of  black pepper, cayenne seasoned salt, onion powder and garlic. The gravy is then made with yellow onions garlic cloves and a cube of Maggi chicken broth. This is added to olive oil and tomato paste simmered together. It and the chicken is then baked together for thirty to thirty-five minutes. There is also pan fried collard greens.cooked with either a  cut up Cajum turkey or regular one neck and wings. You can add fish(!) such as dried barracuda or other kinds if you want, It;s still flavorful with  the addition of ham hock, yellow onions and habanero peppers  This is all cooked together for five to ten minutes on a stove top and served with rice.

These are just some of the recipes you can use for your own Thanksgiving table. They offer a fresh brightness to the table/.They will make this holiday stand out.