Guy Savoy A French Culinary Legend

 France is the birthplace of good food.It has given birth to some of the most legendary chefs in world history including Auguste Escoffier to now Guy Savoy. He recently became the first chef  to be welcomed into the esteemed and prestigious the Academie des Beaux Artes. He is sinly gone beyond being one of the finest cooks in modern Gallic history.He is a true artesan.

Former New York TImes Paris bureau chief and contributor Elaine Sciolino wrote about this remarkable man and his accomplishments in yesterday's New York Times Wednesday section.Chef Svoy's honor os the perfect sweet revenge because he had a Michelin star removedfrom his review in 2023. It  went from two to three.The Academie des Beaux Artes is one of the five academies led by the Royal Academie Francasrs first stated by  Louis XIV. At the Academie des Beaux Artes there are what's known as The "Immortals": painters, sculptors, architects, photographers ,choreographers, musicians and even film and  museum directors. Admitting a chef is a big deal, even in a country where gastronomy has ruled for centuries. He got on after just one round of voting despite that some members were not at all happy to admit him.Yet he even surpassed the great painter Eugene Delacroix and great composer Hector Berlioz. Both were rejected several times before gaining entry,

Chef Savoy is one of the last great chefs dedicated to the art and craft of turning foods into perfect object de desire. His, restaurant, located across from the Musee Louvre, has amazing food. He has created an egg and Caviar dish decorated with a savory sabayon which the staff makes sure dinners have extra of that. Dinners are given second helping of soups and main dishes like Bresse(chicken a breed known for it;s tender meat and juiciness)  .However the pandemic turned around the French palate  and made them crave fast foods like McDonald's .Fast food has soared throughout the country despite the country's plunging economy. Still Chef Savory persists, namely to his dedication to gastronomy. He also credits his mother,Leonie, a small bar and buvette - or informal eatery in their home in Bourgain-Jallu ,outside the French Culinary capital of Lyon.His Swiss born father Louis was the town gardener, supplying the restaurant with veggies and fruit, Fresh produce figures strongly in Chef Savoy's dishes.After the ceremony guests were able to taste thanks to him setting up outdoor tables and stations. His famed artichoke soup was a hit.

Chef Giy Savr will no doubt be rememebered for his amazing dishes.He is a true artists worthy of his membership in the Academie des Beaux Artes. He and his recipes were stand out not only in France but also the world

Return To The Gilded Age

 It was bound to happen. Blame it on the popular HBO series "The Gilded Age" or Trump's tarting out the White House to resemble a gaudy Newport summer home. What is this trend?Restaurants offering glitzy and lush dishes in a time when most are struggling.

Regular contributor and chef ,herself, Julia Moskin wrote about this in Wednesday's New York Times Food section.Despite the economic downturn and food struggles of a very large portion of Americans,Manhattan eateries are featuring recipes that would be very in place in Julian Fellowes HBO series about the real life Astors s and Vanderbilts and the fictional Van Rhijn family. Silver paplates across the city are suddenly discovering the lush and sometimes delicate flavors of foie gras, Dover sole and seafood towers, the last chock full of the Gilded Age favorite  - oysters,flanked by shrimp and lobster. There are also towers featuring hipper tastes like crudo)seafood drenched with olive oil and citrus juice like ceviche)toro fatty bluefin and the best cut of the fish and uni - sea urchins. The restaurant Le Grande Boucherie is offering a suckling costing $600 (!!!!). The Waldorf Astoria's refurbished restaurant Lex is offering a sixty-eight dollar lobster covered with caviar and truffles.

There have always been rich people spending exorbitant amounts of cash on food yet today that spending is reaching dizzying heights.Expensive places to eat just aren't in Manhattan anymore. Travel to  Dallas, Las Vegas, Miami and Aspen and order truffles or  Wagyu beef. Parc in Aspen offers celebrities and millionaires offers the last at $120 a plate while a simple dish of polenta with oyster mushrooms and afarm egg(??) is twenty-eight dollars.It seems lesser prices restaurants are jumping on this trend too.Some are pairing caviar with potato chips or even chicken nuggets at Cocodaq, an innovative Korean restaurant in Manhattan's Flatiron district.  This last sold the combo for one hundred bucks a box!!! last summer at the US Open. It's no secret that most of the country can barely afford groceries let alone expensive nuggets. EConomists are calling it "K shaped economy with two tren likes diverging in opposite directions. Income and net worth have risen rapidly for the one percent, namely those working in the tech business. The less affluent are the victims of a stagnant economy and inflation. Yet offering high priced meals with extravagant ingredients are the only way to stay afloat according to pastry chef and partial owner of Manhattan restaurant Contra, Fabian Von Hauske Valtiera.

There will always be be the rich. They need to eat too. Yet they do it in disregard to what is happening around them.It seems eateries are for them these days.not the hardworking American.

Cocktails And Mocktails Southern Style

 Southerners have always appreciated a good julep or rum punch. They know how to have fun with cocktails, mocktails and tasty little nibbles. Now there's a new book to give everyone that Southern experience - a good mixed drink with a small plate of delicious food.

Cocktails, Southern Style.(Gibbs Smith Press 2025 was written by chef and food columnist for  South Carolina Living Magazine Belinda Smith -Sullivan, She had her first introduction to fine cocktails with her grandfather hosting "porch parties" where neighbors would come over for mixed drinks and cheese and crackers. His granddaughter fondly remember his version of a Shirley Temple, made with Sprite. What I like about this book is that it is a very good guide on how to create simple syrups along with such techniques as shaking and muddling.Another plus is that drinks types are explained. Reading it , home bartenders can learn what a fart  (!!!!)) is - a shot made up of three drinks a. shandies -a beer and soda or lemonade hybrid sprtizes and smashes . There is also a chapter on true Southern drinks. These include Southern Gentleman, a heady mixture of bourbon, prosecco and blsckberries. Mint gives it a refreshing lift. even though Pi,,'s Cup is a British favorite it';s also a great sip on a steamy veranda. This is just Pimm's,a fruity gim , used in other cocktails as well, mixed with Seven Up and lemonade.

There are cocktails and punches for all sorts of parties.The Aviation, a delicate lavender tinged drink is a perfect one with brunch. Its' color comes from creme de Violette which taste like those violet. candies we used to eat. The section on martinis is amazing. Ms. Smith -Sullivan includes every kind from peppermint to a pickletini made with pickle juice and vodka and garnished with cornichin,s those little sweet pickles and olives.Punces are also mentioned . Brandy milk punch would be perfect for any dinner party, with it's old fashioned ingredients of milk , vanilla and nutmeg. Brandy or Bourbon can be used to give it some kick. There are also mocktails such as the famed cherry lime Rickey, made with a blend of cherry and lime juice a , splash of simple syrup and club soda. These are perfect just with dinner or at a barbecue.I'm am going to be putting Ms. Smith-Sullivan's sparkling blueberry lemonade in rotation at my Spring and Summer parties along with her pine apple and ginger beer mocktail recipe. The nibbles to go with any of these drinks are perfect.The pimento cheese - A Southern staple and tomato sliders would be great with any refreshing sip, There is also a crab and  artichoke dip along with the lush caviar deviled quail eggs, perfect with just a glass of champagne.

Every home bartender should buy a copy of Cocktails Southern Style. It does not only offer great recipes but also great advice when it comes to cocktails and mocktails. Even the most novice mixologist can create sophisticated, delicious drinks with these amazing recipes.

Your Christmas Wishes

 here;s a thoughtful Friday question of the week_ What do you want for Christmas food wise? Most Amricans and Europeans would say that  they'd wish for the price of food to go down.It is expensive. Other may be indulgent and say thye'd like a bottle of champagne and some caviar? Others would simply what a home cooked meal by their moms and grandmothers, enjoying family classics like ginger ale glazed ham or homemade stuffing. 

My wish is that all the planet's inhabitants will be well fed and well nourished. It has been a tough year for many on this Earth, between war and natural disasters. Simple food stuffs like flour and milk are hard to be found. I only hope this holiday season should be bountiful in the sense that everyone ,especially the little ones go to bed , well stuffed and sated. A good meal may not take away what's wrong in the world but it can make a hard time slightly better.

What is your  food wish this Christmas? Let us know🎄🎄🎅

Party Planning Plans

 Now that's it's the Christmas season it's time to plan those party plans. Everythign has to be considered, wehter indoor or outdoor, dry or boozy vegan or non vegan.Then there are the guest lists, which are almost as complicated as those Christmas card lists. Who to invite on what night?

The first idea to consider is when to hav eit. Christmas and New Years are on a Monday this year. Hannukah is Thursday December 7th to December 15th. That leaves the weekend of the 9th and 10th for Hannukah  parties. Christmas . Kwanzaa occurs on December 26th and lasts til the New Year, January 1st. Now factor in office Christmas parties and school activities like Christmas concerts along with the usual gift and tree buying.  Ask yourself is a Saturday night do better or would a Sunday brunch be easier? Do you want a tree trimming party where there are just fun snacks like pizza cups and sausage rolls or are you looking to host a buffet, complete with two roasts and a variety of sides and desserts? Another question many party givers will be asking themselves should it be completely indoors or outdoors if the weather is somehwat warm.A great idea would be a hybrid with food and drink tables set up both in the yard and in the dining room.Keep in mind that December weather can be iffy so also have a Plan B in place.

Now comes the hard part. What to serve? Do you want it catered? Do you prefer a homemade or pot luck where guests bring their best and favorte dishes? Will it just be a cookie exchange kind of gathering? Will there be vegans who require a different kind of holiday menu? A combination of herbivore and carnivore? As every good host knows you have to make allowances for everyone.  A good rule of thumb is asking guests what they'd like. Some may prefer  hot wings and pizza rolls along with sushi and charcuterie platters. Other may suggest something easy like a big pot of chili where everyone can just grab a cup or bowl.  If there are kids invited, make sure you have all the allergies listed as well as their dislikes and likes. Nothing says an unhappy kid than one picking at a plate of "adult " food ( think caviar on toast or some kind of smelly cheese) . Have chicken nuggets , whether real or plant based  with a variety of dipping sauces along with sliders and pigs in the blankets. Little ones and even grown ups would get a kick out of an sundae bar too.

It's time to start on those party plans. Get ready. It's a lot fo prep work but worth it in the end.

Running A Classic

Le Bernardin is one of Manhattan's culinary landmarks. It literally has put New York city on the radar of serious critics and food lovers. One woman is behind its' success Maguy le Coze. Her life has been the industry Her life is the restaurant.

Alan Richman, food writer for GQ Magazine conducted the interview with Mlle. Le Coze for today's New York Times Food section. Hers is a story of duty and the familiar. She was the daughter of hotel owners in Port Navalo,Brittany , France and was waiting tables in their restaurant at the age of twelve.Her parents wanted her to take the route they did. Marry a chef, tend to his customers, be the face of the restaurant and don't look any further than the front door. That was not Mlle. Le Coze. She came of age in the militant, swinging Sixties of France.She understood their wants but realized it was not for her. She and her brother, Gilbert,  was eighteen months younger,left for Paris , He worked in the City Of Lights as did she, but modeling for the fashion houses along with working for a hairdresser.. Summers were still spent in Brittany, helping their parents. Their restaurant began in 1972  in Paris.with Gilbert adopting Japanese ways of cooking seafood. It was not an easy time. They coasted after their first good review. A second review, a disaster according to her, destroyed them , The restaurant closed after they forgot to pay taxes and the government stepped in.

Gilbert redid the menu and reopened the eatery. Thankfully there was a good review from the renowned chef, Michel Guerard, and it revived Le Berardin, named for a song their father used to sing to them.Gilbert was smarter this time. They made money with Maguy the showpiece. The money allowed her to, take  lark holidays every summer in St. Tropez. It was at this time the restaurant moved to the chicer neighborhood around the Eiffel Tower. Fascinated by New York, they branched out to Manhattan in 1984.It would not be without sadness. Gilbert died of a heart attack at age forty-nine.It still pains her to talk about it. Yet ,Le Bernardin continues to this day. in the city. The main one was sold. The chef and co-owner, Eric Ripert, still follows the basic seafood menu that Gilbert created in the early Seventies.It's mega expensive but well worth it. The vegetable tasting menu is $172 dollars. for a select range of vegetables in sauce.The chef's tasting menu is close to four hundred dollars (!) but has such dishes as caviar along with langoustime with a balsamic glaze.  Le Bernardin hasn't escaped the MeToo movement. There have been lawsuits by former workers about sexual harassment. Even one worker has accused her of fat shaming her after giving birth. Mlle. Le Coze denies it. She is frank and sensible but not relentless with her staff. She is simply a restaurant owner.

Le Bernardin will be around for a while as will Mlle. le Coze. She is  the backbone of this New York classic.She brings joi de 'vivre to the city's restaurant world.

Holiday Luxe Eating

This is the time of year when you can treat yourself to some culinary luxuries. It could be caviar on a Ritz or a buttery Christmas cookie. Or a big bubbly flute of good champagne. Or even a sundae with all the works. Give your palate a holiday vacation to rich flavors and foods.

Again caviar is always a lush treat. Most grocery stores sell it, even Costco  has tins of it.There are four different types. There is the lightly salted or the Malossol method that is only 3.5% salt., followed by the semi preserved kind  which contains 8 %  salt. ,Pressed caviar is made from damaged or broken eggs, highly salted and jamlike in consistency . The cheapest and most affordable is the pasteurized kind which is heat treated and vacuum packed. Serve on butter rounds of French bread or Ritz crackers wash it down with a good champagne like Asti Spumente or Bollinger Special Cuvee from France's Marne valley. Another affordable luxe brand is Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve. These are in the price range of about $50.00. Finish this meal with well made macarons.Many bakeries now sell them however you can make them yourself, using ground almonds flour and egg whites to create lovely little luxe puffs. Another luxurious baked treat is the French brioche. This is a egg and butter rich yeast roll that is just pure heaven to have. Again these can be made at home or bought at your local French patisserie.

Of course luxe dining could mean a good steak too. Nothing beats a well cooked filet mignon , seasoned with butter, salt and pepper. The same goes for a juicy T bone steak. my idea of luxe is steak PIedmontese style. This involved cooking filet migon in a bagna calda , a mouth watering  anchovy bath rich with the fish, oil and garlic.Another lush meat idea is pheasant.This is actually a low calorie bird with a flavor that's between chicken and turkey. Some butchers will sell it , but mostly you can get it from on line pheasant farms.If you want to try vegan luxury , then go for truffles. These are smoky in flavor and can be bought at online gourmet food stores.  The average price is around $80.00. some . Big cities like New York and Los Angeles do have stores that will sell this fungi fresh and even truffle oil for cooking. If you can't afford any of these, then treat yourself to some good chocolate. Belgian chocolate is the most coveted however the American Godiva brand is delicious and affordable as well.Buy their ultra rich  box of chocolate truffles or even a foil wrapped Santa as a midnight snack.

Give your palate a rich holiday treat. It could be sweet or savory , as long as it's lush and flavorful. Enjoy it . Savor every nibble , sip and bite.

A Spin On A Neapolitan Feast

The Neapolitans have a very set and traditional Christmas Eve meal.It is a centuries old fish dinner featuring twelve different kinds of seafood.Anyone can recreate this on Christmas Eve.In fact a few new twists can be thrown in to liven it up. Melissa Clark covered this in her A Good Appetite in today's New York Times Wednesday Dining section.She uses traditional squid, but instead of it being the breaded calamari ,it is a fried squid with a tangy Thai sauce.instead of serving it with tomato sauce ,Ms Clark has it with Asian fish sauce and fiery bits of jalapeno peppers. Some families do serve an entire fish but it's usually cod or as it's called baccala. She also suggests aa big fish because it's easier to debone.Choices include sea bass or Atlantic char.Mussels are also usua Ly served and Ms Clark gives them a more Provencale spin with garlic and butter. For different twists Ms Clark whips up drool worthy potato chips topped with a lemon infused sour cream and caviar. this would male an excellent appetizer, even for a holiday party.Another good horsd'ouevre is a hot crab and oyster dip on bruschetta.This is a tasty meld of the two seafoods mixed with jalapeño and a variety of cheeses.The fish can even be served as a side dish with an anchovy mustard vinaigrette over arugula and radicchio.Anchovies are blended with Dijon mustard and garlic to create a unique and savory dressing. Nothing is more traditional than the feast of fishes.There can be centuries old recipes but there can also be new ones.It's a great way of preserving one's culture while showcasing some awesome seafood.

Elegant Holiday Plating

Nothing offsets a meal more than how it's plated. It elevates the dish, giving it a rarefied status. Even the most ordinary of foods looks like pure gold whenthey're presented in an elegant fashion.Plating is a great idea for holiday parties and dinners,giving guests a special "wow" factor.

It was the subject and also a pictorial in Wednesday's New York Times Dining section.Dining regular , Jeff Gordnier ,  had presented an interesting representation from various New York and its' boroughs restaurants. Perhaps the classiest is Elm in the trendy Williamsburg section of Brooklyn. Chef Paul Liebrandt makes squab lollipops surrounded by small dabs of greens.It's refreshing and puts diners in mind of Spring and Summer. This is a great idea for holiday hors d' oeuvres with  maybe lamb pops surrounded by thimblefuls of collard greens or salsa verde.WD-50 chef, the famed Wylie Dufresne layers literally curds and whey over duck slices to create a unique dish.

Any home chef could copy these ideas. Instead of just a heap of mashed potatoes think three small rounded teaspoons with a drizzle of gravy  accompanying slices of beef. Filet mignon can be made even more elegant with a line of anchovy paste or caviar drawn on top. Salad can be served  as a decoration with a halved grape tomato surrounded by a small wreath of baby greens. Of course you can also go old school with plating as Chef Joey Campanero of The Little Owl did . He serves a pork chop upon a bed of dandelion greens It's  given a homey feel with a pool of gravy underneath and a heaping side of whipped spuds. Doing this showcases the pork chop but also gives it a more homey , inviting feel to it.

Not only must holiday dishes be tasty ,they should also be presented in an interesting and elegant fashion.Plating can do this. Create a beautiful meal . Use your  food as the colorful ingredients to make a masterpiece .

Mousses Light And Springy Dishes

The temps are rising . The breezes are balmy. It's time to put away all those heavy winter roasts and gravies and think fluffy and light. Mousses whether it';s made with sweets or meats or eve veggies are perfect to serve right now. They're airy , perfect for a warm Spring day or night.

Mousses can be both savory and sweet,. although most people only associate them with just chocolate. For a lovely sophisticated dinner with friends think about making a caviar or crab meat mousse. Both are relatively easy to make, Remember however that the savory ones require gelatin to hold them together. because they are intense,the seafood kind can be served spread on Melba toast or rye squares. You can also make a pork mousse along with  beef ones. The last is served cold and is a great way to use up left over roast beef . Cut up left over chicken for a different kind of mousse,,perfect for a dinner with just a salad.Veggie mousses are also tasty, especially alongside  cold sliced meat or leftover roasted chicken or turkey. Try one with carrots and spinach  or tomato one with basil,Tomatoes have their own gelling properties so you can make an easy one without gelatin.

Sweet mousses are another Spring treat. They can be made light and airy, different than a heavy cake or ice cream. The most famous and popular is chocolate.You can add mint or espresso to vary the flavor.. Another treat is the lesser known vanilla mousse.It's made with the beans scraped straight from the pod and is easier to make than the other. This lighter than air dish would work well with a raspberry or blueberry coulis. A strawberry flavored one is a refreshing change , especially if you have fresh berries to work with. You can also make a raspberry one too or for something more sinful a blackberry one. Add some freshly whipped cream for some more fluffy decadence or a side of fresh fruit.

Mousses are an airy alternative to heavier dishes. Celebrate Spring with this bits of tasty poufs of flavor. They're light on your tongue but heavy on flavor.,

Holiday Luxuries Caviar And Champagne

This is the time of year when snacking on  caviar and champagne seems completely normal. Why not?Christmas week and New Year's Eve and day are the perfect time for indulging in these rich treats. There's nothing like a nibble of caviar washed down with a bubbly based punch and cocktail.

Both these culinary gold standards were the topics of articles in yesterday's New York Times DIning section. Dave Tanis of City Kitchen  wrote about blini, those light and delectable Russian pancakes topped with caviar . Blinis(the plural) can be topped with anything from fruit to lox  however spreading caviar on them takes them to a whole new level.Like any pancake they are easy to make,using buckwheat flour  eggs and water. with the eggs being separated so the whites give them a fluffy texture. Caviar can be pricy however., Domestic can cost as much as $70 an ounce. Fo cheaper varieties try salmon or even trout roe(although even herring and lox would just as well) which are just as delicious and even lighter in taste

What would work well with this dish? A champagne cocktail,Robert Simonson., a newcomer to the Dining section revitalizes old fashoned champagne punch recipes. These were popular over a century ago during New York's Giulded Age (think Edith Wharton).A strawberry cobbler is a great twist on a fruity cocktail. It; just is a strawberry  along with a lemon wheel and simple syrup added to champagne.You can also try an Andean Dusk made with Peruvean grappa, Pisco .For something tamer (and something that will go with the caviar and blini) try a Champagne Julep. This is bourbon , simple syrup and champagne graced with mint leaves. You could also try the suggested Mayfair Delight which has the freshness of cucumber and lemon juices mixed with Cognac and fresh ginger along with agave nectar for sweetening.A caveat though, use a brut champagne. A sweet one will only turn the punch into soda pop.

Nothing beats a glam dish like caviar and champagne. Treat yourself to these lush foods. Now is the perfect time t indulge in them.