Many restaurants take pride in signature dishes. After all , they're what give any eatery, bistro or cafe their reputation and following. Yet a new restaurant in San Francisco is doing the opposite. The chef is taking world famous recipes from restaurants around the world and putting a new spin on them.
Pete Wells interviewed In Situ's creator and chef, Corey Lee in his A Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section. The concept is unique in an industry where individuality is key to success,The restaurant with the closest ideology is Chicago''s Next, founded by Grant Achaz , which completely changes menus every four months. Of course Chef Lee also owns a traditional restaurant, Benu where there is only seven main dishes to choose from.In Situ is sort of like a culinary art museum. Even the name, comes from the Latin phrase meaning a piece of art is embedded in its' original location. Its' menus are folded and fastened with metal museum admission tags and look like guides to a gallery exhibition of works that are on temporary loan. One side of the menu depicts a map of the world tilted on its' axis. The reason for this is showing a dislocation of sorts that hints' that there is a shift from the recipe's original location to In Situ's. Circles on the map show the many dishes many birthplaces.There is a key in the menu's right margin that gives each's ingredients ,it's originator;s name and the city where it was created.
Chef Lee is so good that he even earned praise from the famed WD-50 chef Wylie Dufresne. What he had done with Chef Dufresne's signature dish shrimp and grits is nothing short of amazing.The grits in Chef Lee's interpretation are actually the shrimp repeatedly ground and fried married to pickled jalapeno slices.Another masterpiece is The Forest ,taken from Mirazur in Menton, France,The original dish created by Chef Mauro Colagreco fashioned this vegan dish to look like the woods outside his restaurant on the French Riviera,It involves recreating moss from a parsley soaked sponge cake while the bark is created from fried sunchoke peels. Chef Colagreco gave Chef Lee permission to use mushrooms from Northern California for true authenticity as opposed to ones used from Provence, A dish from the great eatery, Momufuku Ssam Bar is also on In Situ's menu. It is spicy pork sausage and rice cakes. Chef Lee amped up this ragout with sliced rice sticks, turning it into a mapo-tofu.For dessert Chef Lee honors Chez Panisse,It is a salute to Alice Waters lemon ice cream dish in a hollowed out lemon shell placed next to lemon sherbert. A lemon flavored cat's tongue or langue du chat shares the spotlight.
Chefs are usually encouraged to create signature dishes, reflecting their tastes and backgrounds Chef Corey Lee breaks away from that by putting his own spin on already famous dishes. The result is stunning and delicious, the perfect homage from a culinary master.
Showing posts with label Recipe Lab. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Recipe Lab. Show all posts
Wednesday, July 20, 2016
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Brownies With A Touch Of Salt
What could possibly make brownies taste even better? More butter? More sugar? Walnuts? Try salt along with rich caramel. These two additions elevate the brownie to a whole new level.
Julia Moskin knows this and wrote about it in her Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section. As we all know almost everything has been mixed in to the sweet's basic batter. Many home bakers have blended in cream cheese or peanut butter into their recipes. Oreos have been crumbled in and British bakers have even added chocolate chip cookie dough to create what's known as a "slutty" brownie (slutty means lazy over there, although the name does conjure up what other ingredients to slip in).The famed Manhattan bakery , Baked, has made mint coffee and chile ones but only their Sweet and Salty brownie has made the permanent list. It is a spinoff of one of their most popular cakes of the same name. The cake is a heady mix of cocoa, and caramel with a chocolate caramel whipped ganache and dusted with he flaky French sea salt, fleur de sel along with another dusting of sanding sugar.Home chefs can easily replicate this at home, however as Ms.Moskin warns, don;t use those bags of wrapped caramels - the kind that usually are used to enrobe apples Make your own. It's easy and the overage will be great over ice cream or cakes - or just taking a mouthful for yourself.
Caramel is not scary to make although many home chefs are terrified to make it. It could be the high temp, but as Ms Moskin points out we cook something as basic as pasta on a high heat. making caramel is no different.Her caramel is the basic recipe but sour cream is added to give it a tang .Remember to also use corn syrup and sugar to prevent crystallizing.and the caramel from seizing up. The color should be between the shades of ice coffee and iced tea. Many, namely children, will not care for this caramel's bitter sweetness. Cook it then until it's golden brown instead of amber.The chocolate should between sixty and seventy percent cocoa solids which may be listed as cocoa beans or cocoa butter. These should be coarsely chopped for the mix. This is a top quality recipe with two sticks of butter added along with brown sugar. Five eggs are used for richness instead of the usual two. As for the salt.Ms Moskin recommends any flaky kind for sprinkling on top.Any kind of salt will do for the batter as long as it gives the brownies that sweet-salty flavor.The caramel is drizzled over the poured batter and then use a butter knife or icing spatula to swirl the two together. The salt and sugar are sprinkled on when the brownies come out of the oven,Their edges will be puffy but the middle should be barely set.
Home made caramel and sea salt are what can elevate the brownie to a whole new level. It 's that sweet and salty marriage that does it. It is the perfect union and perfect to change up this classic treat.
Julia Moskin knows this and wrote about it in her Recipe Lab column in today's New York Times Food section. As we all know almost everything has been mixed in to the sweet's basic batter. Many home bakers have blended in cream cheese or peanut butter into their recipes. Oreos have been crumbled in and British bakers have even added chocolate chip cookie dough to create what's known as a "slutty" brownie (slutty means lazy over there, although the name does conjure up what other ingredients to slip in).The famed Manhattan bakery , Baked, has made mint coffee and chile ones but only their Sweet and Salty brownie has made the permanent list. It is a spinoff of one of their most popular cakes of the same name. The cake is a heady mix of cocoa, and caramel with a chocolate caramel whipped ganache and dusted with he flaky French sea salt, fleur de sel along with another dusting of sanding sugar.Home chefs can easily replicate this at home, however as Ms.Moskin warns, don;t use those bags of wrapped caramels - the kind that usually are used to enrobe apples Make your own. It's easy and the overage will be great over ice cream or cakes - or just taking a mouthful for yourself.
Caramel is not scary to make although many home chefs are terrified to make it. It could be the high temp, but as Ms Moskin points out we cook something as basic as pasta on a high heat. making caramel is no different.Her caramel is the basic recipe but sour cream is added to give it a tang .Remember to also use corn syrup and sugar to prevent crystallizing.and the caramel from seizing up. The color should be between the shades of ice coffee and iced tea. Many, namely children, will not care for this caramel's bitter sweetness. Cook it then until it's golden brown instead of amber.The chocolate should between sixty and seventy percent cocoa solids which may be listed as cocoa beans or cocoa butter. These should be coarsely chopped for the mix. This is a top quality recipe with two sticks of butter added along with brown sugar. Five eggs are used for richness instead of the usual two. As for the salt.Ms Moskin recommends any flaky kind for sprinkling on top.Any kind of salt will do for the batter as long as it gives the brownies that sweet-salty flavor.The caramel is drizzled over the poured batter and then use a butter knife or icing spatula to swirl the two together. The salt and sugar are sprinkled on when the brownies come out of the oven,Their edges will be puffy but the middle should be barely set.
Home made caramel and sea salt are what can elevate the brownie to a whole new level. It 's that sweet and salty marriage that does it. It is the perfect union and perfect to change up this classic treat.
Wednesday, March 30, 2016
Caesar Revamped
Caesar salad is everyone's go to, whether at home or in a restaurant. It's more livelier than the usual iceberg one and can be turned into a dinner with just the addition of any protein. Is there room for change? Surprisingly yes.As with any dish, there's room for improvement .
Julia Moskin experimented and wrote about it in today's New York Times Food section, Her Food Lab column\gives not only new spins, namely the addition of the ever popular kale, on this American classic but its' origins as well.It did have Romaine leaves but that was not the only recommended green thanks to its' creator, Italian American restaurateur, Caesar Cardini. She cites a 1947 report from the Times Los Angeles desk about the dish' growing popularity in southern California. The bureau chief of the Times then, Gladwin Hill wrote to the New York's branch's food editor Jane Nickerson about the basic ingredients. yes, there should be romaine but also endive and escarole. The salad needs hardy greens that can stand up to the rich, dense dressing. Don't sub in any of the more tender leafed ones such as Bibb or mesclun. They will absorb too much ad become soggy at best.Kale is your best bet but it should be mixed with other greens. Some leaves have a very bitter taste so it's best t mix them with romaine or the aforementioned escarole. Ms. Moskin also recommends using other types of kale such as dinosaur or Tuscan kale along with the curly variety.
Preparing the salad may be a more labor intensive than the usual every day salads.Chef Brian Loicano ,of Manhattan's Noho's Acme Restaurant suggests washing them the night before using a ice water bath . He then lays each leaf on a towel line tray the night before. However this is easy if you have a restaurant's mammoth size fridges so Ms. Moskin tells readers to dry the leaves on tea towels, sandwiching them between two bags of ice. As for the dressing The dressing recipe is more or less the same as the original - garlic, Parmesan, lemon and Worcester sauce. Ms Moskin throws in black pepper and mustard for more flavor and emulsification. The proportions can be adjusted to suit the home chef's tastes.keep in mind how it should taste. There should be layers of heat, starting with the Dijon mustard , then the raw garlic and finally with the freshly ground pepper.It should meld well with the creamier ingredients Everything together gives the finished dish that unami, the fifth flavor thanks to the Parmesan and Worcester. As with guacamole and steak tartare, it should be made fresh table side for more of an impact, although it can be made before hand and served up two hours after making. It's up to the home chef to go modern and add any kind of meat poultry or seafood.
Caesar salad is a classic but it can be modernized. Try it with kale for a different taste and texture. It'll liven up lunch or dinner with a new unique taste.
Julia Moskin experimented and wrote about it in today's New York Times Food section, Her Food Lab column\gives not only new spins, namely the addition of the ever popular kale, on this American classic but its' origins as well.It did have Romaine leaves but that was not the only recommended green thanks to its' creator, Italian American restaurateur, Caesar Cardini. She cites a 1947 report from the Times Los Angeles desk about the dish' growing popularity in southern California. The bureau chief of the Times then, Gladwin Hill wrote to the New York's branch's food editor Jane Nickerson about the basic ingredients. yes, there should be romaine but also endive and escarole. The salad needs hardy greens that can stand up to the rich, dense dressing. Don't sub in any of the more tender leafed ones such as Bibb or mesclun. They will absorb too much ad become soggy at best.Kale is your best bet but it should be mixed with other greens. Some leaves have a very bitter taste so it's best t mix them with romaine or the aforementioned escarole. Ms. Moskin also recommends using other types of kale such as dinosaur or Tuscan kale along with the curly variety.
Preparing the salad may be a more labor intensive than the usual every day salads.Chef Brian Loicano ,of Manhattan's Noho's Acme Restaurant suggests washing them the night before using a ice water bath . He then lays each leaf on a towel line tray the night before. However this is easy if you have a restaurant's mammoth size fridges so Ms. Moskin tells readers to dry the leaves on tea towels, sandwiching them between two bags of ice. As for the dressing The dressing recipe is more or less the same as the original - garlic, Parmesan, lemon and Worcester sauce. Ms Moskin throws in black pepper and mustard for more flavor and emulsification. The proportions can be adjusted to suit the home chef's tastes.keep in mind how it should taste. There should be layers of heat, starting with the Dijon mustard , then the raw garlic and finally with the freshly ground pepper.It should meld well with the creamier ingredients Everything together gives the finished dish that unami, the fifth flavor thanks to the Parmesan and Worcester. As with guacamole and steak tartare, it should be made fresh table side for more of an impact, although it can be made before hand and served up two hours after making. It's up to the home chef to go modern and add any kind of meat poultry or seafood.
Caesar salad is a classic but it can be modernized. Try it with kale for a different taste and texture. It'll liven up lunch or dinner with a new unique taste.
Thursday, October 8, 2015
a Good Old Fashioned Sauce
Nothing beats a good old fashioned marinara sauce. It makes an ordinary bowl of pasta memorable, with its' layers of simple flavors. Anyone from experienced to novice home chefs can make a perfect one. It's an easy ragu to create for a dinner tonight or for one several weeks down the road.
Julia Moskin wrote about it for her Recipe Lab article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. She is something of a sauce whiz, having made her first sauce when she was a child. Her early sauces ,made for her little sister, consisted of nothing more than browned chopped meat and can of tomatoes. Her recipe has progressed , improved over the years with the addition of spices and pork . Funny enough the sauce doesn't exist in Italy, being one of those Italian American inventions such as pepperoni pizza and garlic bread. One of the successes to a good ragu is how it reacts with the pasta. It should be well mixed with a chunky sort like rotelli or penne. The sauce is added a little bit at a time to the pasta pot and then stirred in until there is nothing in the sauce pot.Doing it this way will allow the hot pasta to absorb the ragu, making it the most flavorful. More spices, along with salt and pepper can be added after to zing it up.
What goes into a good marinara sauce?The main ingredient meat should be a mix of pork and beef. Italian sausages work well too, because they already have the herbs and spices needed for flavoring the ragu.if you want to add just beef for a chunky sauce you can but just remember it will make it a one note kind. Tomatoes are also key. Ms. Moskin recommends using San Marzano whole ones but the Tuttorosso brand can also work here.There should also be tomato paste here as well for depth and body. Any imported kind works here, including San Marzano's American or Chinese canned tomatoes just don't quite cut it , probably because their tomatoes aren't ripe when picked as processed.. This affects the unami or fifth flavor of the entire recipe.. Spices are important. They bring out the tomatoes' earthy sweetness. Use fresh rosemary and thyme. along with fresh parsley. If you have basil, add it too. Ms. Moskin doesn't but I feel it gives a nice mellowness to the sauce. The meat and the onion should be fried first in olive oil then the tomatoes are added and cooked for forty minutes.
Nothing beats a good homemade meat sauce.Try this one for a delicious, old fashioned flavor of an Italian American kitchen .It's a nice lift to ordinary pasta and makes for a memorable meal.
Julia Moskin wrote about it for her Recipe Lab article in yesterday's New York Times Food section. She is something of a sauce whiz, having made her first sauce when she was a child. Her early sauces ,made for her little sister, consisted of nothing more than browned chopped meat and can of tomatoes. Her recipe has progressed , improved over the years with the addition of spices and pork . Funny enough the sauce doesn't exist in Italy, being one of those Italian American inventions such as pepperoni pizza and garlic bread. One of the successes to a good ragu is how it reacts with the pasta. It should be well mixed with a chunky sort like rotelli or penne. The sauce is added a little bit at a time to the pasta pot and then stirred in until there is nothing in the sauce pot.Doing it this way will allow the hot pasta to absorb the ragu, making it the most flavorful. More spices, along with salt and pepper can be added after to zing it up.
What goes into a good marinara sauce?The main ingredient meat should be a mix of pork and beef. Italian sausages work well too, because they already have the herbs and spices needed for flavoring the ragu.if you want to add just beef for a chunky sauce you can but just remember it will make it a one note kind. Tomatoes are also key. Ms. Moskin recommends using San Marzano whole ones but the Tuttorosso brand can also work here.There should also be tomato paste here as well for depth and body. Any imported kind works here, including San Marzano's American or Chinese canned tomatoes just don't quite cut it , probably because their tomatoes aren't ripe when picked as processed.. This affects the unami or fifth flavor of the entire recipe.. Spices are important. They bring out the tomatoes' earthy sweetness. Use fresh rosemary and thyme. along with fresh parsley. If you have basil, add it too. Ms. Moskin doesn't but I feel it gives a nice mellowness to the sauce. The meat and the onion should be fried first in olive oil then the tomatoes are added and cooked for forty minutes.
Nothing beats a good homemade meat sauce.Try this one for a delicious, old fashioned flavor of an Italian American kitchen .It's a nice lift to ordinary pasta and makes for a memorable meal.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
