The Crispiest Crackliest Pizza Ever

 What makes a good pizza? Surprisingly its' not the toppings. Or the sauce  or even the cheese.It's the crust that pizza lovers rhapsodize about ,Now there'sa recipe influneced by a famed pizza town to try that gives you the best crust ever.

Regular contributor and chef J Kenji-Lpez Alt wrote about this perfect pie in today's New York Times Food section.He gives tips and tricks on how home chefs can create the perfect Chicago thin crust pizza. THis is the one Chicagoans adore, not that deep dish one that's more like a pizza rustica.It's not like the beloved New York ones with puffy handlebar crusts. There is not crust really. The sauce and cheese literally stretch to the end of the dough with the cheese dripping over in crunchy burnt pieces.Most notable the true Chicago style is cut not in triangles but in bite sized squares that would be perfect as a cocktail party nibble.It was intentional. These bites would make people thirsty . The custom s tarted in the 1940's at such family taverns as Vito and Nick's in the South Side.It was also always free and loaded with sausage thnaks to the slaughter houses in the vincinity.Cracker crust pizza became so pouplar it was the pizza that became number one throughout the Midewest.

Any home chef can recreate this American classic. Chef LopezAlt give the recipe for both the crust and a homemade pizza sauce along with Chicago style sausage..The crust should have less water and more oil for a nice crackly texture.Another Must that he discovered quite by accident is leaving it out on the counter for too long. This produces overfermentation which severely weakens the gluten structure which leads to dough that refuses to rise when it's baked. This is bad for a loaf but perfect for a pizza.It can also be cured, a process developed by Billy and Cecily Federighi. It's leaving the dough out overnight so it dries out. This also produces a crackly crust. Then there'sthe sauce. Homebakers could get a bottle or jar of it but his sauce recipe is worth trying.It's a quick blend of whole peeled tomatoes and tomato paste plus the usual seasonings. The surprise lies in the adddtion of a  tablesppon of granualted sugar and two teaspoons of  red wine vinegar. You could also make the pizza with just the sausage/ This is a taking ground pork shoulder and mixing it with fennel seeds and garlic cloves along with various herbs like oregano and marjoram. You could easily make a CHicago style pizza.

Happiness is a good crispy pizza. Make this true Chicago style one to enjoy that crackle and crunch.it will be a memorable one for sure.

A Salad On A Winter's Day

Making a salad in winter is kind of like make a pitcher of frosty iced tea during a snowstorm. Why do it?.Because surprisingly you can create tasty bowls of flavorful greens that are refreshing. It's just treating the veggies differently to create a fresh , summery taste.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark wrote about then in today's New York Times Food section. Farmer's' markets sell slim pickings right now.. Many  veggies like tomatoes are frozen unlike their supermarket counterparts that travel halfway around the globe. However some winter veggies are better  as their flavors sweeten during this cold time.Mid winter is the perfect time for turnips and parsnips.According to New Paltz ,New York Ray Bradley says that leaving them in the ground makes tem sweeter and imrpoves their flavor.Veggies like Jerusalem artichokes need to freeze  because they'll otherwise taste like sawdust. The sugars in them act like a natural antifreeze , helping plants stay alove in cold climates according to Professor Lane Selman  who teaches horticulture at Oregon State University. She is also the director of Culinary Breeding Network. This affects their taste which makes them perfect for all sorts of dishes.Even a lettuce like radicchio mellows during the winter, giving the leaves a milder flavor instead of the usual sharp taste.

Ms Clark includes some interesting recipes. These can be a side but also make for an interesting main meal. There is a roasted butternut  squash salad with a home made Green Goddess dressing. The squash is roasted with honey and black pepper. The dressing is a nice foil to that sweetnessIt's yogurt mixed with basil, parsley and scallions. Olive oil gives it body while mashed avocadoes gives it color and silkiness. Jalapeno is added for zing. The squash is mixed with crisp greens like baby Romaine and Little Gem lettuce. Another winter dalad is smoked roasted carrots. The carrots are first roasted, then smashed and  put under the broiler  for some nice  charring. The dressing is Asian influenced with soy sauce mixed with vinegar and sesame oil. Brown sugar, garlic and ginger is added to this. Add chopped peanuts and a drizzle fo chili oil to the dressed salad. Those who love Casesar salad will go mad for one made with Brussels sprouts. The sprouts are cut in half and then roasted as homemade croutons are also being baked . The dressing is classic Caesar with lemon garlic  oil and Parmesan cheese. Those who love the sweet taste fo fennel will appreciate the roasted fennel and farro one. Tis has a simple dressing zinged up with orange zest and juice.Its a spin on a Greek salad with the addtiion of dates, green olives feta cheese and almonds,. Scallions and herb like dill mint parsley and cilantro also amp up the flavor too.

There's nothing like a bright fresh salad to liven up a  winter's day. Try the veggies of the season roasted and then toassed with a flavorful dressing. It's a nice way to enjoy a taste of summer.

An Aussie Favorite For American Tables

Every country has their comfort foods. We may have our meat loaf and chocolate chip cookies but the Australians have something a bit tastier - sausage rolls. This kid classic is loved  Down Under and with good reason. They are a flavor and texture explosion, perfect to make at home for a fall lunch or dinner.

Regular contributor Melissa Clark dedicated her entire A Good Appetite to them in yesterday's New York Times Food section. Sausage rolls were to Aussie school cafeterias as meat loaf and mashed potatoes were to ours. The school made ones weren't exactly made from the greatest ingredients according to Paul Allam, owner and baker at Bourke Street Bakery. Ms. Clark interviewed him, along with also getting his best recipes for them. Most school cafeteria rolls are composed of cartilage with the more upscale ones adding celery. His are different, a spin of the classic English sausage roll which is a puff pastry filled with sausage and sometimes an egg. His bakery sells ones with such fillings as a fennel scented pork  along with a turkey and cranberry, a riff on our Thanksgiving dinners. There's also a rotating menu of vegan ones stuffed with eggplant and chiles and spinach and feta. As far as the crust, the flakier the better. Mr. Allam uses his own recipe,a daunting feat but one that can be made at home.

What makes a sausage roll delectable is the crust. Ms. Clark found a  good all butter brand of puff pastry (you can use Trader Joe's store brand or Dufour's for this) but you can also use your favorite pie crust recipe or try your hand at making your own puff pastry. The fillings are mouth watering. There is aforementioned pork and fennel, plumped up with classic comfort food veggies like, peas, carrots and onions. You can use ground pork but ground chicken or turkey is just as good, Vegan meat crumbles are also recommended for  hearty vegetarian fare. Fennel seeds are used for flavor and also fro decoration as they're sprinkled on top. For a Middle Eastern spin there is a lamb and almond one, zinged up with harissa paste, a smoky blend of chiles. There's also couscous and currants added, the last to give it a kind of tangine vibe.Poppy seeds decorate the outside. Vegetarians will love the flavorful leek and mushroom roll.Any kind of mushroom is used and two large leeks. Tomato paste is added for more taste and color and almond butter is also included for creaminess and more substance . There's also garlic and soy sauce added too.

Sausage rolls are the perfect meal  for these cool days ahead. They are the perfect comfort food, filled with tasty flavors and textures. They may be Australia's comfort food but they sure' to be America's too.

True Blue Bouillabaisse

One of the French Riviera 's most defining dishes is bouillabaisse. This thick fish stew defines what the flavor of Mediterranean  cooking is all about - a cornucopia of seafood mingled with a vast garden of herbs and spices. Where to get this amazing dish? Marseille - where cooking and eating the soup like stew originates.

Elaine Sciolino, a sometimes contributor to the New York Times Food section wrote about bouillabaisse in yesterday Food section. she had the lucky chance to enjoy the sun and sand of the area along with finding the perfect bowl.Ms Sciolino may have been the only one craving the dish. Very few Marseillaises eat the famed soup at restaurants. If they do, it's usually at home, from a family recipe.They would rather have either  pizza from food trucks or go to the city's North African restaurants for couscous.It is one of the area's earliest dishes, originating from the Greeks who colonized Marseille in 600 BC.  The recipe stems from kakavia and evolved from a supposed
 dish of the gods (Venus , the Roman goddess of love turned it into a sleeping potion for  her husband , Vulcan, while she dallied with her lover, Mars) . Local fisherman embraced it, adding the plentiful rockfish to the recipe. Their descendants turn up their noses at it. Bouillabaisse , they have discerned , is only for tourists. There's a rumor throughout France that the recipe has gone the way of coq au vin or blanquette de veau, traditional mid 20th Century dishes.Ms . Sciolino admits that finding it was somewhat of a quest.

Even though bouillabaisse has been served since the 18th Century, it is hard to find a restaurant that serves a good one.The port area makes up mediocre ones for tourists while the fancier and known eatery Le Petit Nice, creates a deconstructed  one, thanks to its' famed chef Gerald Passedat. Ms. Sciolino headed to the small resort community Carry-le-Rouet twenty miles northwest of Vieux Port. Since it requires expensive ingredients and is difficult to make you have to order it two days in advance. The chef,  Christophe Thullier prepared his the classic way. His stock was from tiny and gutted rockfish along with tomatoes, fennel, a mix of spices, olive oil and water. It's boiled for twenty minutes until it's thickened and then strained through a sieve. At the same time five types of rockfish is marinated for five hours in a blend of white wine,  and olive oil. Thyme, rosemary, saffron, paprika are added along with a  lot of garlic and more saffron.The fish is thrown into the broth at the last minute. The broth , however was served first , with slices of crusty and toasted French bread. The fish is served secondly and mixed with the broth. The soup is opaque and gritty, with the fish settling at the bowl's bottom.Still, it's worth the trip. Can it be made at home? Yes, but it may not be same as what's made in the south of France.

If you want to get the real bouillabaisse, then head to Marseille. It is worth the trip,not just for that, but the other recipes Provence has  to offer. The lure is strong , like the aroma of a good soup.

When Ocean Meets Grain

Pasta on its' own is a treat. Pair it with seafood, from tuna to shrimp and it becomes a special meal. It's a simple no brainer match. The flavors complement each other, with the strong brininess mellowing thanks to the grain's mild flavor.

Master chef and cookbook writer Yotem Ottolenghi wrote about this pairing in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He was inspired by his latest cookbook, Ottolenghi Simple published last week.It features recipes that are multilayered yet comforting along with tasting good.It's  easy cooking yet sophisticated enough to serve it for a dinner party.One such dish is pearl couscous with shrimp and clams. He combines seafood with such aromatic herbs and vegetables like tarragon and fennel. cherry tomatoes are added as is tomato paste. The grain is pearl or Israeli couscous. The grains are bigger in size than the regular one but cooks up the same way. Its' mild taste is a perfect foil for the variety of flavors and it balances out the shrimp and aromatics.Chef Ottolenghi stirs it into the mix of  charred cherry tomatoes,  lemon ,cooked fennel, and chili flakes Pernod, an anise flavored liqueur is added.As he describes it ,it 's sort of like a paella made with barley grains instead of rice. Could a home chef make this with rice or orzo?What about regular couscous? I don't see why not . Cook it separately and add it later as with any grain dish.

Chef Ottolenghi also offers up a more traditional pasta and seafood recipe.His is a shrimp Bolognese, a riff on the classic Italian meat sauce.It's first mixing the peeling king prawns -you can use shrimp - since their flavors are the same - with fennel, onion, garlic and chili flakes.All of this are pulsed in a food processor until the fish are chunks As with the other recipe, tarragon leaves and lemon are fried with the spiced, cut shrimp.Tomato paste, cherry tomatoes and Pernod are also added for flavor.wait until the tomato paste is brown and stick before pouring in the alcohol Again be careful with the Pernod ,carefully pouring it in. It may flame so be careful. Chicken or vegetable stock is added ( this is a personal preference but vegetable stock is more in line flavor wise with the other ingredients) Chef Ottolenghi uses tagliatelli, a thickly cut ribbon pasta but you could use fettuccine or the drinking straw like bucatini.

Mix seafood with grains for a great flavor combination. The brininess is tamed by the couscous and pasta's mildness. The result is an interesting flavor, heightened by tomatoes , herbs and Pernod liqueur.

A Gathered Thanksgiving Part Two

Yesterday's New York Times Food section was full of recipes from Americans all over the country. The beauty of it  was that it came , from all kinds of Americans, some here for generations , some newly arrived. What binds them - and us together is the love of one's heritage and pride in family dishes. Yet these recipes can easily be served at our tables creating a brand new holiday tradition.

The families that the Times wrote about and were covered yesterday here were from all over the world. The beauty of American cuisine is that it is constantly changing, adding new ingredients and flavors.Take the Ling family of Junction City, Wisconsin. They were from Hmong, Laos and always celebrated the harvest around this time. Thanksgiving feasting fits in perfectly and seamlessly with their celebrating. They raise and slaughter their own turkeys, preparing them with Southern  Asian herbs such as lemongrass and kafir lime leaves. The filling is a vermicelli egg roll filling , full of shredded carrots, cabbage and cilantro doused with  a salty fish sauce. In Nashville Tennessee , one would expect traditional Southern dishes like corn bread stuffing and green bean casserole. Not so with the Tayyar family who emigrated from Dohuk in Northern Iran. They will serve the Kurdish  eprax, a carefully layered casserole of grape leaves along with stuffed cabbage, tomatoes squash and potatoes.,nsted of turkey there will be a row of lamb chops down the center of the eprax.There will also be chicken and turnip greens too, as they eat the traditional feast on a rug spread out on the floor.

Jamaican food is not normally considered Thanksgiving food  yet Francine Turone uses the cuisine's spices for her turkey, The island born home chef brines the bird with a mix of cinnamon, cloves, allspice and juniper berries along with slipping clarified butter under the skin. She also serves a roast goat leg along with rice and peas in coconut oil. They celebrate her Milanese born husband Giacomo's culinary heritage. with tortellini in brodo or broth. Some recipes are handed down such as Debbie Himmler from the German influenced city of Cincinnati. Her oma's or grandmother' s rotkraut or homemade red cabbage is a family recipe from southwestern Germany.,a mix of shredded cabbage cooked with red wine and tart Granny Smith apples. Maren Waxenberg' s Scandinavian heritage shines through when she used to have gravlax and herring before the Thanksgiving meal.She continues on with blotcake for dessert. This is a sponge cake with whip cream and berries. Italians keep recipes through centuries and generations and the Conte family of  Wall, New Jersey is no different. They make a fluffy spinach -mushroom stuffing  instead of the usual bread stuffing. Their potatoes aren't mashed, rather roasted in olive oil and garlic They end not with pie but ith fennel and oranges dusted with salt and pepper.

America is a big kitchen ,full of recipes new and old. This was never more evident in yesterday's New York Times Food section. It is full of dishes, both sweet and savory that reflect our many different, cultures and backgrounds,nationalities and heritage.

A Summery Treat In January

As we anticipate the Blizzard of 16  we long for those summery meals , full of of fresh veggies and fresh flavor. We can have that, not surprisingly  with  a California style pizza. Make it ,  have a cooling drink and think  of sun soaked days on a hot beach .

David Tanis thought of this in his A City Kitchen column in yesterday's New York Times Food section. He gives us  the recipe for a California pizza, one topped with fresh vegetables than sauce. The main star is the dough, Mr. Tanis gives instructions on how to make one that will result in a light delicate crust with crispy edges. According to him the best pizza dough is a relatively soft one.Resist the temptation  to add extra flour or the result will be a heavy crust - not the end result you want.Don;t heavily flour where you'll be kneading it. Go for lightly dusting the area. It
is is a great exercise for novice home bakers. It is an exercise in using yeast as well as kneading, discovering exactly what the phrase smooth and elastic means. You can make double the amount . Pizza dough can be stored  for three to four days in the freezer. it makes for excellent calzones and garlic knots, the last the perfect mate for a wintry minestrone soup.

As for the California topping(this type of pie is sometimes called pizza primavera or Spring pizza), Mr Tanis uses sliced bell or sweet peppers. He also throws in a jalapeno one for excitement and heat. All of these should be thinly sliced because they need to thoroughly cook up during their short time in the oven ( the pizza only takes a mere five to seven minutes to cook up )He also adds sliced red onions along with fennel rich Italian sausage,This should be crumbled all over the top so every
 piece has an equal amount. For cheese lovers, don't worry. You can either opt for mozzarella or Fontina with another helping of extra mozzarella for the cheesy topping.It is a layered pie with the grated cheese going on first, then the peppers. The sausage is then sprinkled on , and the pizza is finished off with a mozzarella covering.Fresh marjoram is then dusted over this, although if you want a more traditional taste go with oregano.Vegetarians can sub in soy sausage and soy cheese as regular meat eaters can use chicken or turkey sausage instead.

Bake this California style pizza when the snow is piling up outside.It 's a sunny taste of the garden that will melt away those winter blues. Have a slice, along with a cooling drink, and pretend you're on your favorite beach.

A Healthy, Tasty Easter

Tomorrow is Easter and for all my readers have a good and healthy one. Indulge a little in chocolates (it wouldn;t be the same without them). Don't go too wild on the Peeps or anything too marshmallow-y. Ditto with the jelly beans which are pure refined sugar.

Revel in the greens of the season. This is the start of the asparagus one and every Easter dinner should have a dish of either roasted or baked stalks. They are tasty and a great addition to any table. The same can be said for fennel. Make a tasty and cool fennel salad with a simple lime and olive oil dressing for a fresh Spring flavor. Go easy on the ham and baked beans, They're loaded with salt and also nibble at the cakes and cookies sparingly. Finish with an iced herbal tea to refresh yourself and kick back  to enjoy the pretty clothes and colors.

Have a good Easter and a healthy one too. Eat wisely . Don't gobble up all the sweets. Go for the veggies instead and enjoy and observe the day..

Winter Salads

Even though it's December you can still have a nice salad.It's a great alternatie to the usual hot soup or sandiwch fare most are eating.Besides there's nothing like a refreshing cool dish to revive you after a morning of X-mas shopping or after a  night of heavy eating.A homemade salad is a great perk during this season.

Salads can be made with a variety of different ingredients or just one. This is the season for cabbages and they can be shredded into a tasty main dish, If you want to make it more substantial, then added shredded cooked chicken along with water chestnuts .This is also the season for avocadoes.Use them, not in guacamole but a simple , refreshingsalad  where they're cubed and dressed with a vinaigrette.Another winter favorite, celery  can also be treated the same way as can be fennel. You can also mix these two for a tasty salad. Mixed salads are also good, Add some canned veggies such as corn niblets, string beans and beets.

What kind of dressing goes well with a cold weather salad? You can always go with a mayo based one.You many want to rethink that though if you feel heay and bloated after all those holiday buffets.A simple dressing is always the best because it brings out the veggie's sharp, earthy  flavors
have simple mixes of just olive oil blend with a red wine or apple cider vinegar.Toss in a small pinch of sea salt and freshly ground pepper.You can add some dried Rosemary or oregano if you want more taste. Even though it's the holidays , you can still indulge in a cool light salad.It's great antedate to all those hot , heavy holiday meals. Having greens now makes perfect sense, and a perfect alternative during these crazy days.

Know Your Herbs

Summer gardens and markets are full of herbs right now.There are all sorts, each with a unique and distinctive flavor. Each can be used in summer cooking and barbecuing , give meats and vegetable the extra oomph. Because there are so many novice cooks can become confused. Know what you;re cooking and grilling with to avoid a disaster.


Right now gardens are full of basil and dill along with rosemary and thyme. Basil is one of the most important summer time herbs.It's a very strong, almost medicinal taste. It's good ground into a pesto or scattered on a Margherita pizza. Basil leaves are one of the top components in a tomato salad, bringing out the tomatoes' sweetness. However it can be too strong for chicken or fish. For those you want to add fresh or freshly dried oregano.It's also a basic component for Italian style dressing as is its' companion rosemary. Rosemary is excellent on any and every meat and it brings out the smoky flavor of any barbecued chop.Thyme can be used in everything from meat dishes such as  T bone steak or Cornish hen or gracing an outdoor baked focaccio or even biscuits.

The sweeter flavored herbs such as fennel, anise, and dill are also great in summer cooking. Fennel alone is  wonderful chopped and served in a vinaigrette.You can try it this way as a refreshing side to grilled lamb or spicy beef or chicken kabobs however it great French style gracing any fish dish,There is even a fish and fennel stew. Anise is another herb that can be widely used in summer cooking. Try it with a grilled pork roast  to bring out the meat's honeyed taste.it can also be used to give simple salads a lift up. If you want a more subtle flavor then sprinkle dill. It is  phenomenal mixed with sour cream and then poured over cold, sliced cucumbers.Dill can also be added to beet salad as well.

Summer herbs can amp up the taste of any barbecue and salad.Use them correctly though for great tasting and memorable outdoor dishes. They 'll become part of your warm weather cooking tradition.

Time For Fennel

Even though it's autumn you can still make a nice salad. Instead of the usual summery greens, though try fennel. It's big this time of year and makes a wonderful side whether if it's on its' own or with other veggies. Another plus is that it has a distinctive refreshing taste -a perfect foil against heavy main dishes.

Fennel is a bulb like plant usually grown in the early spring , namely June and July. However it's also big around the fall and many Italian homes have a fennel dish at Thanksgiving. It's name is derived from the Latin foeniculum. It's a hardy perennial being an actual herb as opposed to a green .It's been used from India to England where it was included in the pagan Anglo Saxon Tenth Century Nine Herbs Charm, an early medical manuscript. The Greeks called it marathon and it figured prominently in the famed Batttle of Marathon in 490 BC.Fennel has been used to treat everything from modern day hypertension to past century cures for digestive disorders and blood problems.

Fennel itself has a distinctive taste- not unlike anise (which it is often mistaken for). The Times had some lovely salad recipes th e other days for it.These included one with radishes and mushrooms. However a more popular one is a plain fennel salad (which was popularized by the late 60 Minutes journalist Ed Bradley). His recipe includes just cutting up an entire bulb and them dousing it a simple red wine vinegar vinaigrette. This is delicious even when it's a few days old. The fennel is great at absorbing the dressing which leave a tart, fruity aftertaste. Another way of serving it is just cutting up the bulb and stalks and dipping them into a simple oil and vinegar mix. Italians have been doing this for years and fresh fennel is always a big part of Sunday and holiday dinners.

Surprisingly this Spring specialty is a big part of fall dining. make a fennel salad for a refreshing alternative to regular salads. It's like a breath of crisp autumn air!